If anybody is close to me in NEPA and needs an engine lift for a few weeks or something I do have one to borrow. they can get pricy if you rent one over a week or something. I'd just need it back after you were done lol. Just thought Id throw that out there. Todd Vin 5386 --- David Teitelbaum <jtrealty@xxxx> wrote: > The special tool for the timing chain is to maintain > tension on the > timing chain to maintain timing. Without it you will > have to remove > the timing cover which means removal of the engine > from the car. Refer > to C:05:04 for complete explanation. > Expect some trouble with removing the exhaust > manifolds, The hardware > during normal use is subjected to high temperatures > and extreme > cycling of temperatures which causes the hardware to > "freeze" in place > especially because of dissimilar materiels and > different coeficints of > expansion and contraction. The best way to get them > loose is with an > acetalyne torch to heat up the hardware before > trying to remove it. > Without the timing chain tool you should figure on > removing the whole > engine, transmission, exhaust system. It is not that > big a deal once > you get the rear facia off. Of course this assumes > you have a good > place to work and some tools and an engine lift > (which you can rent). > David Teitelbaum > vin 10757 > > > > --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "cruznmd" > <racuti1@xxxx> wrote: > > Since my "critical engine failure", I've been > forced to accept the > > realities of my budget, and replace the head > gaskets in place. I have > > a few questions before I get started: > > > > 1. The workshop manual shows a special tool to > hold up the timing > > sprocket. Do I have to have this tool or is there > another safer way? > > 2. My exhaust manifolds are not in great shape > and I don't want to > > damage them anymore. Can I just disconnect them > from the muffler and > > the "U" pipe and leave them attached to the heads? > > 3. I have been told that removing the manifolds > is "easy" by some > > folks on list. #5335 has been in a very damp > environment for years > > and the nuts and studs are fused together by rust. > I don't even see > > how I can get at them all without removing the > engine even if they > > weren't rusted. Is there something I don't know? > > 4. In short, can this job be done with the engine > in place or should > > I be removing it? > > > > Thanks, > > Rich > > #5335 > > > > To address comments privately to the moderating > team, please address: > moderators@xxxx > > For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for > sale see www.dmcnews.com > > To search the archives or view files, log in at > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > > ===== For up to the minute details on the restoration of Vin5386 point your browser to, http://www.khpindustries.com/stainlessrestorations.html __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo http://search.yahoo.com