The special tool for the timing chain is to maintain tension on the timing chain to maintain timing. Without it you will have to remove the timing cover which means removal of the engine from the car. Refer to C:05:04 for complete explanation. Expect some trouble with removing the exhaust manifolds, The hardware during normal use is subjected to high temperatures and extreme cycling of temperatures which causes the hardware to "freeze" in place especially because of dissimilar materiels and different coeficints of expansion and contraction. The best way to get them loose is with an acetalyne torch to heat up the hardware before trying to remove it. Without the timing chain tool you should figure on removing the whole engine, transmission, exhaust system. It is not that big a deal once you get the rear facia off. Of course this assumes you have a good place to work and some tools and an engine lift (which you can rent). David Teitelbaum vin 10757 --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxx> wrote: > Since my "critical engine failure", I've been forced to accept the > realities of my budget, and replace the head gaskets in place. I have > a few questions before I get started: > > 1. The workshop manual shows a special tool to hold up the timing > sprocket. Do I have to have this tool or is there another safer way? > 2. My exhaust manifolds are not in great shape and I don't want to > damage them anymore. Can I just disconnect them from the muffler and > the "U" pipe and leave them attached to the heads? > 3. I have been told that removing the manifolds is "easy" by some > folks on list. #5335 has been in a very damp environment for years > and the nuts and studs are fused together by rust. I don't even see > how I can get at them all without removing the engine even if they > weren't rusted. Is there something I don't know? > 4. In short, can this job be done with the engine in place or should > I be removing it? > > Thanks, > Rich > #5335