The easiest way to remove the cap is to first remove the wiring plug. If the area around the master cylinder is moist and dirty it means the master cylinder is leaking and should be replaced. Check the condition of the brake fluid. If it is thick and dark it is bad and needs to be flushed out. In doing that you will also cause the calipers on the wheels to start leaking too. This will turn into a complete brake system rebuild. This is the reason the Owner's manual recomends flushing the brake fluid every 2 years. (Clutch too if 5-speed) To fix the bad idle is going to require fixing any vacuum leaks and probably a tune-up. Start by checking that the 3 large brass screws on the intake are LIGHTLY seated closed. Next block off all of the vacuum lines one at a time and see if that improves the idle. If it does then you have to follow it to the source of the leak. A hissing mode switch is a vacuum leak. Make sure that at idle the throttle spool is hitting the idle micro and turning on the idle motor. It gets more complicated from here, you could need anything from new spark plugs to cleaning the fuel injectors to a valve adjustment. David Teitelbaum vin 10757 --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, doctorDHD@xxxx wrote: > My brake light just went on and I found that my brake fluid level was a bit > low. I could see what looked like a slightly moist "greasy dirt" all around > the area between the master cylinder and the vacuum booster. > > What is the best way to investigate this leak? When I take off the reservoir > cap to refill the master cylinder I have to bend the float because the > electrical connector is in the way. Is this normal? It seems like the float > will brake. Is this another quirk in the DMC design or in me for not knowing > how to do it properly? > > My car always seemed to need too much brake pressure to stop and my idle is > fast and oscillates. Could I have a vacuum leak in this area? > > Dave > 6530 > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]