Ok everyone, since not everyone is clear on the function of the power locks, here is a detailed explanation. The locks in the DeLorean are not the typical power lock system. It is what is known as a Central Locking System. What this means is that when one door is locked/unlocked, the other door(s) do the same. There are no extrernal button switches, as they are built into the lock mechanics inside the door. To my knoledge, this was a fairly popular fad in the '80s, but there were reports of people being carjacked/robbed when someone would hide on the other side of the car, and attack the driver when he/she unlocked thier own door. The lock controller on the DeLorean uses a negative pulse to trigger the locks. Manually locking/unlocking one door from either the inside or out, will throw the internal switch, giving ground to the common sense wire that goes to the controller and other door switch. (Also in the case of the "Lock Doors" light the ground here will be powered when unlocked, and when the inertia switch is tripped the ground to the fuel pump is simply redirected to the unlock sence wire.) If your doors will power lock in one direction, but not the other, it may be an indication of a previous failure by the stock module, causeing the solenoid coils for that direction to burn out. However, this may not always be the case. When I bought my car, both doors would lock, but only the manual one would unlock. After unplugging the connector (the 8-wire harness) and plugging it back in, everything worked normal. And it is also VERY easy to tell if you have a Lockzilla or original module. Open up your relay compartment behind the passenger seat, and look at the black box right in the middle, on top of everything else. If it says "Lockzilla" on it, there you go. If it is unlabled, it is original. While your in there, you should also permenently remove your fuse box cover and check the condition/connection of all fuses. This winter, I removed my lock module and opened it up. The part that commonly fails are the two internal PC-board relays that can stick closed from the power surge created by the solenoids. I was able to find a new, identical PC-board relays. Only these were rated a little more heavy duty than the originals (40A, I'm pretty sure the originals were 30A). I removed the old relays and soldered the new ones in. I have been using my stock module in this manner all of this year, without a single problem yet. This modification is NOT for most people though, and I'm not going to be using it like this forever. I would strongly recommend the Lockzilla to everyone, and I will eventually get one myself. The primary reason I did this was because I wanted semi-safer working power locks, on a tight buget. (Total cost was about $15.) I do plan on putting indicator lights inside the car that will light up whenever a solenoid is getting power, so I can actively monitor if one of the new relays I put in has failed. I personally am sceptical of the locks "locking on thier own", but I do have a theory that in a moderate/severe shock to the car, the internal switch inside the door could bounce just enough to trigger the lock module. If anyone has any other questions about the locking system or about my modification, please email me directly at ultra(at)isd.net. Take care. Jim Reeve MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club DMC-6960