Leave the car on the stands, place the floor jack under each tire, then raise them to a normal driving orientation. I don't jack my car by its fragile fiberglass body, preferring instead the relatively sturdier frame. Central rear jacking point is the crossmember (just like a front engine car turned around backwards). I place my jackstands where the lower support arms mount to it. Notice how close together the stands are in the rear vs the front. Our chassis is trapezoidal shaped -- wider in the front than the rear. This keeps the outside edges of the two different sized tires in line with one another for aesthetic purposes. Bill Robertson #5939 >--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "supermattthehero" <supermatty@xxxx> wrote: > Would someone be willing to outline the trailing arm bolt replacement > procedure using a jack and jack stands? I want to be sure that I know > where to place the stands when doing this. I've read all the articles > so I know that I need to raise the car (by the body jacking point? by > the frame?), replace the bolt, snug it up, and then lower the car > before torquing the bolts. (how can I still fit underneath the car > when the weight is on the wheels?) I prefer to do all of the work on > the car myself aside from inspection, so any help is appreciated. > > Matt > #1604 To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: dmcnews-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/