Bill, We don't currently have stainless 7mm Hex bolts available and never claimed to. We do however offer an intake manifold bolt kit (#1IMBKIT...$24.65) that we use in the shop when pulling the manifold/water pump. If you apply a dab of hi-temp anti-seize to the threads I think you'll find that, say ten years down the road in my experience, that all the bolts will still loosen easily. Stainless is not necessary nor financially viable in this application. The exhaust manifold is a different animal and we found it very beneficial to have these 7mm STUDS made from hardened stainless (#102167GS...$7.50 each). Again applying anti-seize to the head mounted portion of the threads will IMO keep "galvanic corrosion" from causing any problems. It is neither necessary nor desirable to anti-seize the nut side of the thread as it will interfere with torqueing the nut and make proper retention difficult. Stainless on stainless can cause galling problems if the fastener is over tightened which is why we still use steel nuts with these studs. Back in the eighties I could get copper plated all metal 7mm locknuts which would be ideal if I could convince the manufacturer in Germany to make some more. In the meantime I believe our exhaust service kit (#112259GS...$149.95) creates a new standard in DeLorean exhaust repair and serviceability. All of our products are "shop tested" BEFORE we offer them for sale which cannot be said for some venders who have no repair center, and the inherent expense, in which to test their products. This is why I believe Delorean owners should patronize (at least some of the time) venders that have invested in a shop to properly service their customers. If these venders are to survive ten years from now some people will have to resist the tendency to shop for the lowest price at all costs. OK, that said, I'll get down off my soapbox! -----Original Message----- From: content22207 [mailto:brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx] Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2004 9:55 PM To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Subject: [DML] Additional Thoughts Re: Water Pump Replacement Add to Martin G's and David T's recommendations: - Have extra copper banjo washers on hand (some always fall and get lost when removing/reinstalling fuel system) - Replace O rings for coolant distribution pipe - Replace or eliminate steel pipe in the heater core return line - Replace vacuum lines while so accessible I'd also consider replacing 7mm bolts on the coolant distribution pipe with stainless studs and nuts from Rob Grady. Bolts that hold the pump are very common 8x1.25, if you want to replace them with studs as well. Steel and aluminum weld themselves together in the presence of moisture (leaking coolant). Stainless on stainless however remains easily removeable. Doesn't matter if studs weld themselves to the block -- all you care about is turning the nuts. Bill Robertson #5939 To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: dmcnews-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/