[DML] Re: I played with the brass screws and now I'm hosed

["content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Sounds like your CIS is dying, which I suspect today is a more common
problem than many enthusiasts wish to admit. When new those screws
were indeed unnecessary. But as the system becomes twitchy or stops
working altogether, they are one of only two other means to idle the
engine:
-Crack open the throttle plates
-Use the manual idle circuit (brass screws)

I'm running just fine with CIS removed altogether (ECU isn't even in
the vehicle!). This is the procedure to set the manual circuit:
http://f5.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/UE9NQLZN6tRnXorQ2wTxyVi1rb9K7m4lZqzr4Nmhn8MZcXrN2jD9P3qO_5tyUOIORKGHzm_ec0xBjkD4GhC5f_DRd2kH2-8XLW4/Idle.txt

Set your brass screws so the engine will idle without CIS. Then
reactivate the system. The primary inlet screw (closest to the air
sensor plate) can be opened as necessary to augment automatic idle.
Note that since driver and passenger balancing screws are totally
dependent on the inlet screw, you never need worry about them again. 

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "supermattthehero" <supermatty@xxxx>
wrote:
> I like to read the DML a lot.  So much, in fact, that I came across 
> the fact that the three brass screws should be all seated closed.  I 
> walked out to the garage, said "Hey, mine aren't closed!" and I 
> closed them.  Now my car starts, but stalls as soon as the rpms 
> begin to fall down (to where it previously would begin idling 
> normally).  Where do I begin?  I know the previous owner had 
> replaced the distributor impulse coil about 5 years ago.  
> 
> thanks,
> 
> Matt
> #1604




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