To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 20 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Idle Speed
From: doctorDHD@xxxxxxx
2. Re: Engine Compartment Light
From: "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink@xxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: Engine Compartment Light
From: Peter Lucas <lucas@xxxxxxxx>
4. Re: Engine Compartment Light
From: "ksgrimsr" <knut.s.grimsrud@xxxxxxxxx>
5. RE: Engine Compartment Light
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: Re: Engine Compartment Light
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount@xxxxxxxx>
7. Almost there
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Second howto complete front speakers
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder@xxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: Outside Parking
From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx
10. RE: Torque values and spark gaps
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. RE: Idle Speed
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
12. alternator/volt gauge/a short....whats the score here
From: "TalksToGod" <5n-@xxxxxxx>
13. RE: vacuum forming molds
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
14. RE: DMC found
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
15. Re: Re: Electrical Troubles
From: Jan van de Wouw <jvdwouw@xxxxxxx>
16. 1700 Mile DMC FOR SALE- Michigan
From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx
17. SEDOC CRUISE IN, GAINESVILLE GA.
From: "delor_01" <JOHN.JORDAN@xxxxxx>
18. Storage
From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx
19. Re: Engine Compartment Light
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
20. Re: Storage
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle@xxxxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2003 09:40:32 EDT
From: doctorDHD@xxxxxxx
Subject: Idle Speed
I had a small oil leak, that seemed to be coming from the right side valve
cover gasket so I cleaned off all the oil and tightened a few valve cover
gaskets. The leak seemed worse but the valve cover gasket was dry. The oil was
coming from a "hole" in the upper left hand side of the right timing chain cover.
I quickly figured out that this "hole" was for bolt that I was missing ever
since I bought the car last October! I put a bolt in, snugged it down and
viola, no more leak. I drove the car and notice something very interesting. It
now idled smoothly at the 750 rpm it was supposed to. I was ecstatic. So all
this stuff about the DeLorean PRV being so sensitive to any vacuum leaks was
true I said to myself. When I got the car home the leak was fixed but while
the engine was running I touched the wires going to the idle speed motor and
all of a sudden the idle speed came back up to its previous state of rolling up
and down between 950 and 1200. It idles fine with the idle speed motor
disconnected. Is this a bad ECU? What is the best way to trouble shoot this?
Dave & 6530
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2003 14:03:33 -0000
From: "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Engine Compartment Light
I "fixed" mine by wrapping it together with soldering wire. It was
thin enough that it would go back inplace, yet strong enought so it
wouldn't break apart when the switch was depressed.
Erik
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, doctorDHD@xxxx wrote:
> Is there a way to fix the engine compartment light switch? The
little strips
> of plastic that hold the "guts" inside the body have broken so now
the
> plunger just pushes the switch apart.
>
> Dave & 6530
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2003 11:05:08 -0400
From: Peter Lucas <lucas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Engine Compartment Light
Epoxy?
On Friday, July 18, 2003, at 09:14 AM, doctorDHD@xxxxxxx wrote:
> Is there a way to fix the engine compartment light switch? The little
> strips
> of plastic that hold the "guts" inside the body have broken so now the
> plunger just pushes the switch apart.
>
> Dave & 6530
--Pete Lucas
VIN #06703
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2003 15:30:45 -0000
From: "ksgrimsr" <knut.s.grimsrud@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Engine Compartment Light
The engine compartment light switch is part number 101629. If it is
broken, replace it with a new one that is not broken.
Listed as in-stock on the DMC web site for under 20 bucks.
I'm often baffled as to why it is DeLorean owners are often willing
to spend so much time an money to avoid repairing and replacing
stuff properly. Why muck with cludging up a "fix" to a broken switch
when you can just get a new switch?
Knut
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink@xxxx>
wrote:
> I "fixed" mine by wrapping it together with soldering wire. It
was
> thin enough that it would go back inplace, yet strong enought so
it
> wouldn't break apart when the switch was depressed.
>
> Erik
>
>
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, doctorDHD@xxxx wrote:
> > Is there a way to fix the engine compartment light switch? The
> little strips
> > of plastic that hold the "guts" inside the body have broken so
now
> the
> > plunger just pushes the switch apart.
> >
> > Dave & 6530
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2003 17:06:55 -0700
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Engine Compartment Light
Dave, The best way is to junk it and buy a new one. I tried several times to
fix them and they just kept coming apart.There are some metal plunger
switches you can purchase and they will last almost forever.
John Hervey
-----Original Message-----
From: doctorDHD@xxxxxxx [mailto:doctorDHD@xxxxxxx]
Sent: Friday, July 18, 2003 6:15 AM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Engine Compartment Light
Is there a way to fix the engine compartment light switch? The little
strips
of plastic that hold the "guts" inside the body have broken so now the
plunger just pushes the switch apart.
Dave & 6530
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2003 20:56:46 -0400
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Engine Compartment Light
Solder!!!!
The correct way of doing the same is with aircraft safety wire and the
special tool....
I'm just smug because I was using solder until last week when I upgraded
... :)
Jim
1537
On Fri, 18 Jul 2003 14:03:33 -0000 "erikgeerdink"
<erikgeerdink@xxxxxxxxx> writes:
> I "fixed" mine by wrapping it together with soldering wire. It was
> thin enough that it would go back inplace, yet strong enought so it
> wouldn't break apart when the switch was depressed.
>
> Erik
>
>
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, doctorDHD@xxxx wrote:
> > Is there a way to fix the engine compartment light switch? The
> little strips
> > of plastic that hold the "guts" inside the body have broken so now
>
> the
> > plunger just pushes the switch apart.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2003 15:58:12 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Almost there
My Kingdom for a fuel distributor. :)
I leaned out the CO screw today, and the car definitely caught more,
but it's just too much fuel. Long after the engine stops cranking I
can -hear- gas flowing into the cylinders. It's that bad.
I can smell the fuel, especially coming out of the exhaust. I tried
adjusting the Primary Pressure Regulator but that just made it leak.
The metering plunger stuck again and only a whack from a hammer freed
it up. (Hey, the distributor is toast anyway)
I used my kids to help set the timing. I was pretty close. You should
see the way they jump around when they're holding the high tension
wire! (Just kidding)
I found the short in the oil pressure gauge. That was good.
I reset the needle in the fuel gauge. It still pegs. That wasn't so
good. I hope it's just the fuel sender and not a short in the wiring.
I'm going to stop cranking the engine until I have a new fuel distro
and pressure test kit. I'll just end up bending a rod or something.
Rich
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2003 13:18:32 -0700 (PDT)
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Second howto complete front speakers
Hello all:
Maybe this email wont be canxed. The second
howto is done. "front speaker stuff" dont really feel
like writing this all over again. questions comments
etc.
thanx
jordan 11613
http://retroserver.no-ip.com/deloreanmain.html
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
http://sbc.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2003 16:36:11 EDT
From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Outside Parking
Unfortunately some people don't have any respect. They see something better
than what they have and have to mess with it. On the opening day of 2 fast 2
furious I went to the theater in my friends Porsche 944 which he just had
repainted the day before. When we got out of the movie the car was keyed to hell.
Someone keyed every panel on the car. After this experience, I don't leave
the D unattended. If you do store your car outside, be careful...
Peace,
Dave
6286
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2003 17:10:24 -0700
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Torque values and spark gaps
Be carefull even on the torque values. You might find thats to much. Use a
3/8" drive and snug the plugs down and then give it a little lock down.
Usually that's enough. Threads could be striped if to much torque.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com
-----Original Message-----
From: jordan rubin [mailto:nuttenschleuder@xxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Friday, July 18, 2003 4:50 AM
To: dmcnewsgroup
Subject: [DML] Torque values and spark gaps
Hello all:
The Delorean book isnt highly informative. This
is what Ive managed to grab out of it for this
weekends project. Some are hard to read though so I
need to be sure.
SPARK PLUGS
TORQUE 13-15 FOOT LBS
GAP 0.024-0.028 IN
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2003 17:14:59 -0700
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Idle Speed
Dave,
Did you know that the oil dip stick is supposed to be sealed as best you can
down into the holder. Potential vacuum leak also.
The idle speed motor can be tested by putting a 12 volt common wire on the
center conductor and then touch the red wire or hot to one of the other
terminals. Then you can see the valve inside opening and closing.
It's better you take it off to do the test.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com
-----Original Message-----
From: doctorDHD@xxxxxxx [mailto:doctorDHD@xxxxxxx]
Sent: Friday, July 18, 2003 6:41 AM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Idle Speed
I had a small oil leak, that seemed to be coming from the right side valve
cover gasket so I cleaned off all the oil and tightened a few valve cover
gaskets. The leak seemed worse but the valve cover gasket was dry. The oil
was
coming from a "hole" in the upper left hand side of the right timing chain
cover.
I quickly figured out that this "hole" was for bolt that I was missing ever
since I bought the car last October! I put a bolt in, snugged it down and
viola, no more leak. I drove the car and notice something very interesting.
It
now idled smoothly at the 750 rpm it was supposed to. I was ecstatic. So
all
this stuff about the DeLorean PRV being so sensitive to any vacuum leaks was
true I said to myself. When I got the car home the leak was fixed but while
the engine was running I touched the wires going to the idle speed motor and
all of a sudden the idle speed came back up to its previous state of rolling
up
and down between 950 and 1200. It idles fine with the idle speed motor
disconnected. Is this a bad ECU? What is the best way to trouble shoot
this?
Dave & 6530
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2003 22:18:35 -0000
From: "TalksToGod" <5n-@xxxxxxx>
Subject: alternator/volt gauge/a short....whats the score here
I am having a tough time with my DeLorean's electrical system. The
case is- my regular Motorolla alternator is producing only 10.5 volts
shown on the gauge constant. Constant meaning-When I am to put on my
headlighs or my fan (heat/AC) the voltage will drop down. The problem
is-with my headlights on and the gauge running well below 10.5-I
cannot accelerate there simply is not enough power to run my
headlights and run the engine at the same time hence there is a power
drop in my motor which comes immediatly back once the lights or
whatever is on is shut off. My thoughts were a bad
alternator/battery/contacts/etc. Now I have come across something that
stumps the hell out of me-whenever it rains and i drive the car, the
gauge will show a constant reading inbetween the middle 13, and the
orange lower mark-it is about 12 or 11.5 volts. At this reading with
my lights on and even my fan on, my engine still has enough power to
run good at higher RPMs. With this, I figure the water is creating a
ground-so I must have a short somewhere. If anynone can suggest a
place to look a place to start-or maybe you have had a similar
situation which you fixed-I would appreciate to hear what you have to
say. To clear up more on what I already tested-I ran the engine and
unplugged all the fuses that wouldn't stop the engine from
running-still 10.5, also cleaned up alternator contacts aswell as
starter contacts. I was considering the purchase of a 150 AMP
alternator from Specialty, but if I can fix my current problem, I
could really use the save of almost 300 dollars. Alternator has new
brushes etc. thanks again for the help guys--Dani
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2003 17:17:21 -0700
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: vacuum forming molds
John, To my knowledge new ones are available.
John Hervey
-----Original Message-----
From: painintheass7565 [mailto:advantics@xxxxxxx]
Sent: Friday, July 18, 2003 5:29 AM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] vacuum forming molds
I am amazed to see how many plastic parts on our D's were vacuum
formed, such as the battery access cover one of my D's is missing.
Does anyone sell these parts new? Does anyone know what happened to
the production molds that these parts were made from? I have a
plastic vacuum forming business, and thought about making a couple of
molds but if they're available, I won't waste the time.
John Salva
VIN 5326 & 1383
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2003 17:23:04 -0700
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: DMC found
Scott, The fuel system can be quite costly to update and repair about
$1500.00 depending on if you do it all the way. From injectors to fuel
filter. I can walk you through it if needed.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com,
-----Original Message-----
From: sharkywtrs [mailto:dmc83n99@xxxxxxx]
Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2003 9:09 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] DMC found
Hello all;
I have a friend here in Pensacola who is looking for a De Lorean.
Recently he found one for a very nice price. I have not had a
chance to go over the car yet, but as usual, this car has sat for
some time. The owner says that it has been started, but needless to
say I'm expecting a full fuel system restore. Here is the
question; the owner says that the car will start, but if he doesn't
pour a small amount of gas into the tank it will stall. Now, I'm
going on the assumption that the owner understands how the fuel
gauge works and that it's just not out of gas. Any ideas?
Scott
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2003 00:55:05 +0200
From: Jan van de Wouw <jvdwouw@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Electrical Troubles
On Thu, 17 Jul 2003 15:04:15 -0000, Knut Grimsrud wrote:
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Louie Golden wrote:
>> ... It'll show 10.5 volts on the gague,
>> and read almost 14 straight from the battery.
[snip]
> If the voltage for the same rail is different in two places,
> then you should ask yourself why that's the case if they
> are electrically connected.
Please DO remember that this only goes when using the same
meter for both measurements... So this would only truly be
the case when you've taken your multi meter and put it on the
battery, measured 14 volts, then used the connection for the
meter behind the dash to measure there with the multi meter...
For all you know the dash gauge's calibration is WAY off,
it certainly wouldn't surprise me if it was...
JAN van de Wouw
Thinking Different... Using a Mac...
Living the Dream... Driving a DeLorean...
Shifting Expectations... Driving a Nissan...
DMC-12 "Dagger" since Sep. 2000
100NX "Saphire" since Nov. 2002
-------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2003 19:02:03 EDT
From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx
Subject: 1700 Mile DMC FOR SALE- Michigan
Hi,
A friend of mine found a 1983 DeLorean for sale in Grand Rapids this
week. Please don't email me for information as I wont be on a computer for a
few weeks...The seller seems quite motivated to sell, maybe a concours
candidate?
5spd
1700 original Miles
$23,500
contact ALAN at 616-942-4550 or 616-942-5078
Peace
Dave,
6286
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2003 00:37:17 -0000
From: "delor_01" <JOHN.JORDAN@xxxxxx>
Subject: SEDOC CRUISE IN, GAINESVILLE GA.
HEY! Y'ALL
HERE IT IS:
INFORMATION Y'ALL HAVE BEEN WAITING FOR!
JOHN HERVEY OF SPECIALTAUTO.COM HAS BEEN GRACIOUS ENOUGH TO SET US UP
ON HIS WEB SITE FOR REGISTRATION AND EVENT INFORMATION.
PRESENTERS:
STEPHEN WYNNE
JOHN HERVEY
BOB ZILLA
BYRNE HENINGER
KEN KONCELIL
AND MUCH MORE
INFORMATION ABOUT THE EVENT, PARTICIPANTS,ROAD ATLANTA,HOUSING,
LOCATION AND CONTACT POINTS CAN BE FOUND ON HIS WEB SITE.
PRE REGISTRATION DRAWINGS: BIG TIME!!!!!GO TO SITE FOR INFO:
MORE TO FOLLOW:
JOHN JORDAN
PRESIDENT
SEDOC (SOUTHEAST DELOREAN OWNERS CLUB)
404 562 6075
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2003 22:03:58 EDT
From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx
Subject: Storage
I decided to straighten out my priorities so the D car is going to sit for a
while. School is starting soon and I don't need to be paying insurance on two
cars. I drove the car to my parents house and completely detailed it. I
purchased some cinder blocks at Home Depot so the Yokohama's don't get flat
spots. (All fluids were changed including brakes)
I am wondering if I should drain the gas out of the tank. It is about
1/4 full. The next time I pull the car out will probably be for Pigeon
Forge. Will fuel stabilizer do the trick? I just don't want to ruin all the new
fuel system parts I have installed. I wont be on a computer for a week or two
but I will read the posts when I return.
Thanks
Dave
6286
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 19
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2003 02:10:52 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Engine Compartment Light
If you're referring to the bottom of the switch pushing out, I fixed
mine with crazy glue about 10 years ago. So far so good.
Harold McElraft - 3354
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, doctorDHD@xxxx wrote:
> Is there a way to fix the engine compartment light switch? The
little strips
> of plastic that hold the "guts" inside the body have broken so now
the
> plunger just pushes the switch apart.
>
> Dave & 6530
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 20
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2003 02:15:20 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Storage
Put fuel stabilzer in it, RUN IT to circulate the stabilizer into the
system, then drain the tank. The parts inside the tank hold up better
in no gas than in stale gas. Condensation is the normal reason given
for storing cars with a full tank, this is not much of an issue with
a plastic tank. I may get some argument on this but I still believe
empty is better.
Dave Swingle
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Delorean17@xxxx wrote:
> I decided to straighten out my priorities so the D car is going to
sit for a
> while. .... I am wondering if I should drain the gas out of the
tank. It is about
> 1/4 full. The next time I pull the car out will probably be for
Pigeon
> Forge. Will fuel stabilizer do the trick? ]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Back to the Home of PROJECT VIXEN