To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 21 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Battery/Starter basics
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Another story...
From: "Stian Birkeland" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: Re: LHD Cars
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. The Year on the List
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Drive axles
From: "dmcman82" <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: internet owners list?
From: "jv_espey" <james@xxxxxxxxxx>
7. Water pump replacement checklist
From: Peter Lucas <lucas@xxxxxxxx>
8. RE: Cooling system flush
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: Torsion Bar Problem
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Re: Starting Problem
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Waste Coolant Disposal.
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
12. VCR (or TiVo) alert... E! True Hollywood Story
From: "henryhank" <heskin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
13. RE: internet owners list? The DeLorean Owners Directory
From: "Montgomery, Ken" <kenm@xxxxxxxx>
14. Re: DI water in cooling system???
From: "turbodmc3113" <turbodmc@xxxxxxxxxxx>
15. RE: Waste Coolant Disposal.
From: "Mike Griese" <mike.griese@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
16. Re: Starting Problem-Batteries
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
17. DeLorean owners in IN?
From: "Dan RC30" <Danrc30@xxxxxxxxxxx>
18. Re: Cooling system flush
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
19. Re: Sunstar write-up
From: "Fronzel Neekburm" <MIst_hunter1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
20. Re: Waste Coolant Disposal.
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
21. Re: Sunstar write-up
From: sand131@xxxxxxx
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 06:46:03 +0000
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Battery/Starter basics
You need a volt meter, common little cheap VOM, Radio Shack or any
other. With the volt meter across the battery terminals, have someone
turn the ignition key to the start position. If the battery voltage
drops like a rock and the starter doesn't spin you probably have a bad
battery. If the battery voltage stays constant or nearly so and the
starter doesn't spin you have a bad starter or poor connection to the
starter. Move the volt meter and read the voltage at the starter (from
chassis ground) with the ignition in the crank position. If battery
voltage is there the starter is bad, if not, again, you have a bad
connection from the battery to the starter.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 16:03:47 +0100
From: "Stian Birkeland" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Another story...
[Moderators note: This is a lengthy article dealing with some past history of the troubles in Northern Ireland with very brief mention of John DeLorean.]
Go to:
http://www.limerick-leader.ie/issues/20000603/woulfe.html
Best wishes
Stian Birkeland
Norway
VIN # 06759
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 15:08:25 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: LHD Cars
If I remember correctly, Ian, you're not exactly deviod in the muscle department. Unlike me...:-)
In fact the only reason it's not difficult in LHD is because the centre console makes a great elbow-rest
Martin (who has a gearbox with only 3000 miles on it and is lovely and slick :-P )
#1458
ian wrote:
> Baloney Martin,
>
> Thank god the gearstick is the same on rhd and lhd. Could you imagine the
> problems folks like myself, Chris Parnham, Mark Bourne, Dave Howarth, etc
> would have when we get out of our lhd-DMC and into our rhd-DMC ... it would
> be mayhem trying to remember which way to change gear!!!
>
> Cheers, IAN
> *****************
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 07:14:34 +0000
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: The Year on the List
It's been a great year on the list, lots of action, lots of new
features, new people participating. Best of all the flame-throwers were
stamped out. A year ago it was the major problem...no longer, the
moderators got together and civilized postings. (I might hold the
record for rejections for the year but I mostly deserved it) Next great
advance was another by Dave Swingle (truly a one man gang), the near
worthless archives suddenly became useable when he instituted Google as
a search engine. Now you can do a search and actually find references
to what you're searching for. Lots of fanciful dialogue occurred, any
way you want to go, as long as it's related to the man and the car etc.
Sun Star came out with the great little model which was quickly turned
into an opportunity to personalize and compete, on the list. "Toby's
bolts" hit the list, revolutionizing thinking re Trailing Arm Bolts.
Several really dedicated owners kept up a steady stream of help for
questions asked, didn't matter that the answer may have seemed obvious,
no one was insulted for asking, all tried to help. This is truly a
great group, and it's getting better!
Happy New Year
Les
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 15:50:22 -0000
From: "dmcman82" <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Drive axles
While reading the Tech sessions this weekend I saw Dave Swingles
writeup on the Drive axles. I went to the page he refered to (Tom's
VW page) and was now wondering....could this be a direct replacement
for the Deorean drive axles? The one's I have are in good condition
and just need to be cleaned and re-lubed. I figured I would replace
the CV Boot on them and thought that the boots from the VW one's
would fit the Delorean. When I called the parts store for a price on
the boots the guy said that he could get me the entire VW axle
assemblies (rebuilt units) cheaper then all the boots combined and
the grease. If these are the same as the D I may just get the entire
assembly, if not then will the CV Boots from the VW work on the
Delorean?
Thanks,
Steve
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 15:52:43 -0000
From: "jv_espey" <james@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: internet owners list?
The DeLorean Owners Directory was a project that I started
several years ago, and is now in the care of Ken Montgomery
and is posted on the DMC-News website. Unlike some other
website 'registries' which allow anyone to sign up, the intent of
the DOD is to just list owners, eliminating potential mis-use.
Register for it here:
http://www.dmcnews.com/directory.html
Appears that it was last updated in May of 2001. I know that Ken
has been busy since then with his own show and other personal
matters, but I expect it will be updated before the spring/summer
show season begins.
James
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Cameron Putsch" <putsch.1@xxxx> wrote:
> I heard you can sign up on a website somewhere if you own a
Delorean. In it, it tells your address and if you have tools for
break downs etc. I'd might like to sign up, but don't know where
exactly to go. Which site and where on that site?
>
> Casey at putsch.1@xxxx
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 12:02:21 -0500
From: Peter Lucas <lucas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Water pump replacement checklist
Last summer I successfully replaced my water pump. I considered this
procedure at the edge of my abilities, but got through it OK with the
help of the two excellent articles in the DMCNEWS Techsection by Cameron
Price and David Swingle. Even so, the experience was a bit intimidating
due to the lack of details in the service manual concerning the many
wires and hoses and random bits that need to be disturbed in order to
perform this procedure.
So, in a fit of compulsion I decided to keep extremely detailed notes as
I went along, with the idea of writing up an attempt at a complete
checklist of each and every step involved in this procedure. I have
finally gotten around to finishing this. The results can be found in the
Techsection at
http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/waterpump3.html
Perhaps this document (combined with the other two) will give a few more
people the confidence to tackle this interesting procedure. If so, they
will be rewarded not only with a dry garage floor, but also with a much
deeper (literally) understanding of their PRV and how it works.
NOTE: Although I have tried my best to capture each and every step in
this process, I am sure I missed some things. I am also sure that there
are variants from engine to engine. These will only be discovered by
people attempting to use the checklist. So, if you do so and discover
any discrepancies, please send me a note and I will attempt to revise
the checklist accordingly.
Enjoy.
--Pete Lucas
VIN #06703
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 14:46:48 -0500
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Cooling system flush
This flush system always bugged me.. Mostly because most people who use them do not properly collect and dispose of the coolant (and contaminated water).
If you change your coolant as needed, I have always drained the system and replaced it with 100% water. Let the car run a while (or even drive it for a day or so if the weather is warm), then drain and replace with correct 50/50 mix. Collect the coolant EVERY time you drain, and dispose of it properly..
-----Original Message-----
From: edherrmann [mailto:edherrmann@xxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2001 6:19 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Cooling system flush
What is the best way to flush out the cooling system. Should I just
remove one of the coolant hoses. I saw an item in the store by
Prestone where you can attatch an in line tee to the heater hose so
you can run water from your yard hose and flush it out while running
the engine. Is their another way by using the yard hose and running
the engine. Thanks. Ed 10078, 16228
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 15:49:24 -0500
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Torsion Bar Problem
The last time I saw this was at the Richmond, VA get together and the car
had a broken front door hinge.
Dave Sontos
vin 02573
----- Original Message -----
From: "Aaron PETERSON" <mrroboto1@xxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2001 1:43 AM
Subject: [DML] Torsion Bar Problem
> Hello,
>
> I am experiencing problems with the driver side door torsion bar. It seems
that a local body shop bent the bar, while replacing a door hinge, that the
door will only stay half way up, even with a new strut on it. Is it possible
for the bar to be bent back (the middle is bowed outward) without causing
damage to the bar?
>
> Aaron P.
> car#7126
>
> Take Pride in who you are!
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 16:09:17 -0500
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Starting Problem
Check and clean all of the electrical grounds first. Then check the starter
inhibit relay in the fuse compartment, make sure the female terminals in the
block haven't been pushed down out of the block.
Dave Sontos
vin 02573
----- Original Message -----
From: "paulus260572" <paulus29@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2001 8:12 PM
Subject: [DML] Starting Problem
> Hello all,
>
> The problem I'm having on starting is this sometimes when I crank the
> car over its like the battery is flat and there's hardly any reading
> on the volt gauge then all of a sudden the car will start and be fine.
> I just put new starter motor on and when I test the battery with a
> meter on tick over its about 13.7 volts and rises when you accelerate.
> Any ideas?
> P.s.I have a delco alternator but don't know what model?
>
> Cheers Paul.
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 21:46:52 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Waste Coolant Disposal.
This is also a leagal issue where you need to check your local
regulations. Stormdrains are ALWAYS a definate no-no! As is a septic
tank since it is designed to leach excess liquid into the ground.
However, your local sanitary sewer system should be able to accept
the waste coolant. Since it goes to a treatment plant, there should
be no problems. But as always, you want to check things first with
your local municipality. If nothing else, your local Haz-Mat waste
center should be able to take the liquid in for collection. Flush all
excess liquid out of the system into buckets untill it is clear.
Dispose of into the toilet. That way, you minimize spillage into the
environment. Once clear, water should be fine to run into the street.
-Robert
vin 6585 "X"
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "carnut4849" <gmfm1@xxxx> wrote:
<SNIP>
> Remember that in many places it is illegal to flush the system
> out and let the coolant run into the sewers and into the ground, so
> be careful.
> Happy Motoring,
> Gary Masie
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 21:47:08 -0000
From: "henryhank" <heskin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: VCR (or TiVo) alert... E! True Hollywood Story
Just to let everyone know, that on Thursday, January 10 at 10AM, E!
will be showing the E! True Hollywood Story about John Delorean.
-Hank #1619
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 14:28:27 -0800
From: "Montgomery, Ken" <kenm@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: internet owners list? The DeLorean Owners Directory
There is indeed a directory for owners. When you buy a DeLorean or are
involved in one changing hands you should send your new or updated
information to the DeLorean Owners Directory. The 'DOD' is available on the
DMCnews website at:
http://www.dmcnews.com/directory.html
You have to be in the Directory in order to qualify to receive a copy. The
next version should be available in January.
If you have any questions, contact me at:
The DeLorean Owners Directory is a helpful listing for every owner to help
find other owners in their area, where ever in the world they may be. Email
and phone numbers are in the Directory, but not addresses.
Please note. If you've posted your info to the DOD in the last few months I
will have it in the next issue. There is no need to post it again unless
something has changed.
=======================================================
Ken Montgomery Sacramento, CA VIN #10911 'OUTTIME'
http://pages.sbcglobal.net/montkw/delorean/index.htm
mailto:kenm@xxxxxxxx
President, Northern California DeLorean Motor Club
http://www.ncdmc.org
Keeper of the International DeLorean Owners Directory
http://www.dmcnews.com mailto:directory@xxxxxxxxxxx
=======================================================
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Cameron Putsch [mailto:putsch.1@xxxxxxx]
> Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2001 5:07 PM
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [DML] internet owners list?
>
>
> I heard you can sign up on a website somewhere if you own a
> Delorean. In it, it tells your address and if you have tools
> for break downs etc. I'd might like to sign up, but don't
> know where exactly to go. Which site and where on that site?
>
> Casey at putsch.1@xxxxxxx
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 22:48:58 -0000
From: "turbodmc3113" <turbodmc@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DI water in cooling system???
IMHO I do not think it is OK to use DI water in the cooling system.
It has been my experience that DI water tends to be aggressive in
that it wants to replace the ions.
It's been too long for me to remember all the chemistry behind it but
let me just give you this fact.
We use to make coffee with DI water and the DI water ate the metal
heating element at an accelerated rate.
Went to tap water and problem went away.
The best thing to use is distilled water, second best is the water
that you get from a dehumidifier or what drips from an air
conditioner (don't collect it with a metal bucked use plastic).
Regards,
Mike D.
Vin 3113
NY Lic DLORIANN
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Adam Price" <acprice1@xxxx> wrote:
> Is it alright to use deionized water (with ethylene glycol) in the
cooling
> system of the delorean or other automobiles?
>
> thanks, Adam 16683
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 17:13:39 -0600
From: "Mike Griese" <mike.griese@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Waste Coolant Disposal.
Check your local government offices for a toxic
waste collection depot. Or you can call your local
service center and see if they know of a place to
take used coolant. Rochester has a collection center
and they will take waste coolant, paint, cleaners,
brake fluid, you name it. Best of all, it's FREE!
In Minnesota, service stations have to take waste
crankcase, transmission, and gear oil, and anyplace
that sells automotive batteries has to take dead
batteries for a small fee.
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: therealdmcvegas [mailto:DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx]
Sent: Monday, December 31, 2001 3:47 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Waste Coolant Disposal.
This is also a leagal issue where you need to check your local
regulations. Stormdrains are ALWAYS a definate no-no! As is a septic
tank since it is designed to leach excess liquid into the ground.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 23:11:26 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Starting Problem-Batteries
Definatly clean all of the "big" grounds. They could cause all kinds
of problems. Although that may be the source of the trouble (and it's
easy to check with a voltmeter) I have found that especially on the
sealed batteries they can work and all of a sudden fail and then work
again. It seems that they can develop a bad connection internaly. The
best way to test for this is with a load tester. Since most people
don't have them just go to a Sears or other large chain store. Most
will test your car for free including an alternater test. They do it
so they can sell batteries. If your battery is over 4 years old it can
no longer be trusted to still have full capacity. a load tester will
show you this. On the Delorean out-of-sight-is-out-of-mind. Since you
rarely see the battery it is forgotten and neglected until it is dead.
A battery that has been allowed to be completly drained several times
will never fully recharge. In storing the car the battery SHOULD be
removed, cleaned, and kept recharged. If you load test it before
reinstalling you will know that you have a battery you can trust.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Dave Sontos" <dsontos@xxxx> wrote:
> Check and clean all of the electrical grounds first. Then check the
starter
> inhibit relay in the fuse compartment, make sure the female
terminals in the
> block haven't been pushed down out of the block.
>
> Dave Sontos
> vin 02573
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "paulus260572" <paulus29@xxxx>
> To: <dmcnews@xxxx>
> Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2001 8:12 PM
> Subject: [DML] Starting Problem
> >
> >
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 19:04:09 -0500
From: "Dan RC30" <Danrc30@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DeLorean owners in IN?
Hi everyone,
If there are any DeLorean owners in the West Terrahaute IN area, please drop me a private e-mail. Thank you.
---Dan
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 19:23:12 -0500
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Cooling system flush
Remember that there are two coolant drain plugs on the engine block. One is
by the oil filter, and one is on the other side near the oil pressure
sending switch. I heard stories that these are nearly impossible to get to,
but I had no problems at all. It takes the same tool as the drain plug on
the oil pan. Just put it on the end of a swivel adaptor with a very long
extension. I removed both plugs on my car when I replaced the coolant. One
drained just fine, but the other was clogged with dry gunk. At first I
thought I had unscrewed the wrong plug, but after jabbing a screwdriver
through the wall of gunk, it gave me a bath. I never bothered flushing the
system since it looked like everything drained as dry as a bone and the
coolant that I caught in a bucket looked very clean. I used the cheap 1
year green Prestone coolant and decided that I would flush it in a year when
I replaced all my hoses. If you remove these plugs, I highly recommend
putting them back in with anti-sieze grease.
I tackled the disposal problem with the Environmental Protection Commission
in Florida. One of the agents took my name & number and called me back the
next day after checking their official sources. She said that the official
opinion [sic] was that everyone just tops off their system and the fluid
which is lost is sparsely distributed on the roadways where there would be
no significant accumulation. Therefore, there is no need to provide a safe
means for consumers to properly dispose of used coolant. Mechanics in
Florida are required by law to accept used motor oil (without charge) from
consumers who bring it in bottles. (There are reasonable limits.) But they
are not required to accept coolant. I read her the directions on a bottle
of Prestone Antifreeze that recommended flushing the system every year. She
got frustrated and told me to just pour the stuff down my drain. I told her
that I was on a septic tank, and she said that wouldn't be good as it would
kill the bacteria in the tank and poison the soil. She said to pour it down
a drain that is connected to the municipal sewer system (where the city poop
goes, not where the rain water from the roads drain). There it would be
diluted enough that it probably wouldn't matter. Neither of us were too
happy with the answer.
A local mechanic had a shop fixture that recycled coolant. It had a bunch
of filters and whatnot that turned used coolant into 'new' coolant. It
looked like a poor excuse to keep the environmental feds happy. I wouldn't
want any of that used in my cars.
Walt Tampa, FL
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 19
Date: Tue, 01 Jan 2002 07:06:56
From: "Fronzel Neekburm" <MIst_hunter1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Sunstar write-up
>From: "fivetwofive" <CBL302@xxxxxxx>
>Reply-To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>Subject: [DML] Sunstar write-up
>Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 08:46:17 -0000
>
>Sunstar write-up
>Originally, John DeLorean had planned to sell his new sports car for
>a sticker price of around $12,000 (hence the 12 in DMC-12), but
>production costs and various other details put the price at $25,000.
>However, he decided to stick with the original model name of DMC-12.
Hello DML,
I just wanted to ask, is this true or is it just a fact the writer made up?
Thanks,
John
__ __
\____/
/____\
0 0
DeLorean
_________________________________________________________________
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 20
Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2002 05:08:27 -0600
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Waste Coolant Disposal.
In Mobile, I am able to dispose of used oil, trans fluid and coolant at my
local Auto Parts Supplier. -----
Scott Mueller
> Check your local government offices for a toxic
> waste collection depot. Or you can call your local
> service center and see if they know of a place to
> take used coolant. Rochester has a collection center
> and they will take waste coolant, paint, cleaners,
> brake fluid, you name it. Best of all, it's FREE!
> In Minnesota, service stations have to take waste
> crankcase, transmission, and gear oil, and anyplace
> that sells automotive batteries has to take dead
> batteries for a small fee.
>
> Mike
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: therealdmcvegas [mailto:DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx]
> Sent: Monday, December 31, 2001 3:47 PM
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [DML] Waste Coolant Disposal.
>
>
> This is also a leagal issue where you need to check your local
> regulations. Stormdrains are ALWAYS a definate no-no! As is a septic
> tank since it is designed to leach excess liquid into the ground.
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 21
Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2002 11:01:11 EST
From: sand131@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Sunstar write-up
In a message dated 1/1/02 9:01:02 AM Central Standard Time,
MIst_hunter1@xxxxxxxxxxx writes:
> >Originally, John DeLorean had planned to sell his new sports car for
> >a sticker price of around $12,000 (hence the 12 in DMC-12), but
> >production costs and various other details put the price at $25,000.
> >However, he decided to stick with the original model name of DMC-12.
>
> Hello DML,
>
> I just wanted to ask, is this true or is it just a fact the writer made up?
>
> Thanks,
> John
>
According to Mr. Delorean it is true. Although some people have other
opinions I would tend to believe the man.
Ralph
VIN 1606
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
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