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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Sunstar write-up
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: Waste Coolant Disposal.
From: "dmcman82" <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Clutch master expiration date
From: "mcookwwi" <mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. (DML) Different tail light colors... and brake pads.
From: "Adam Price" <acprice1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
5. (DML) Different tail light colors... and brake pads.
From: "Adam Price" <acprice1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
6. caution and warning labels
From: "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
7. Saddest Delorean E-bay post i have ever seen
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: caution and warning labels
From: Senatorpack@xxxxxx
9. Stick shift plate
From: "Kevin Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Facia's Glossy/Matte
From: Watkins Family <watbmv@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: caution and warning labels
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
12. Re: Re: Torsion Bar Problem
From: Christian Williams <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Coolant Recovery
From: "carnut4849" <gmfm1@xxxxxxx>
14. Texas (now Illinois) Monster Truck
From: "daveswingle2" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
15. door strut questions (up or down?)
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
16. Re: caution and warning labels
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
17. Re: Facia's Glossy/Matte
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
18. Re: (DML) Different tail light colors... and brake pads.
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
19. Re: Saddest Delorean E-bay post i have ever seen
From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
20. Re: Torsion Bar Problem
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
21. Re: new parking brake cross-reference
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
22. Re: Clutch master expiration date
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
23. Re: Clutch master expiration date
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
24. Re: Re: Revsese WAS: Why the DeLorean?
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
25. RE: (DML) Different tail light colors... and brake pads.
From: jwit6@xxxxxx
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Tue, 01 Jan 2002 18:09:44 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Sunstar write-up
Mike Loasby said it was because it was the 1st model, and a 2-seater. The 4-seater was to
have been the DMC-24. This is the "official" reason at the time of the car's production
(presumably because it was so hopelessly off the $12k target!).
Martin
#1458
sand131@xxxxxxx wrote:
>
> According to Mr. Delorean it is true. Although some people have other
> opinions I would tend to believe the man.
> Ralph
> VIN 1606
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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 01 Jan 2002 18:42:55 -0000
From: "dmcman82" <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Waste Coolant Disposal.
By law (in NY state at least) all mechanic garages, oil change
places and auto parts store are required to take used oil, batteries
and used coolant so that they can properly dispose of the waste.
Whenever I have to flush out my coolant system I always bring it to
a trusted place to do so that they can collect the used fluids
properly. If I am just changing the fluid then I will do it myself
since I can catch the few gallons of fluid easily.
Steve
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Mike Griese" <mike.griese@xxxx> wrote:
> Check your local government offices for a toxic
> waste collection depot. Or you can call your local
> service center and see if they know of a place to
> take used coolant. Rochester has a collection center
> and they will take waste coolant, paint, cleaners,
> brake fluid, you name it. Best of all, it's FREE!
> In Minnesota, service stations have to take waste
> crankcase, transmission, and gear oil, and anyplace
> that sells automotive batteries has to take dead
> batteries for a small fee.
>
> Mike
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: therealdmcvegas [mailto:DMCVegas@l...]
> Sent: Monday, December 31, 2001 3:47 PM
> To: dmcnews@xxxx
> Subject: [DML] Waste Coolant Disposal.
>
>
> This is also a leagal issue where you need to check your local
> regulations. Stormdrains are ALWAYS a definate no-no! As is a
septic
> tank since it is designed to leach excess liquid into the ground.
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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 01 Jan 2002 19:59:02 -0000
From: "mcookwwi" <mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Clutch master expiration date
Well, either the 'D' had 2002 jitters or its clutch master cylinder
apparently had an expiration date of 12/31/2001, because it died last
night on my way to a party. Luckily I was close enough to my house to
make it back into the garage, but I can't even get it into gear this
morning.
When I bought 10901, it had (and still has) the adjustable clutch
link. I assume that contributed to the master cylinder going out. I
have since purchased the braided line, and a new master cylinder. I
will be ordering a new slave tomorrow from PJ Grady so I can do
everything at once according to DMC Joe's recommendations. I don't
want to damage the new master again, but I don't have the original
clutch pedal link. Can I set up the adjustable link to the 'oem'
length so I do not damage the new cylinder? Does anyone know what
that length is?
Also
1) is it possible for me to bleed the system myself or will I need
help as I assume?
2) will I need to have the car on a lift in order to replace the
plastic clutch line or can I do it on stands?
We appreciate your help!
Mark and 10901
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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 01 Jan 2002 12:57:59 -0800
From: "Adam Price" <acprice1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: (DML) Different tail light colors... and brake pads.
My DeLorean has had different color tail lights for as long as I have had
it. Thelight panel that goes over the bulbs has always been yellow over the
turn signal bulbs. Most pictures of DeLoreans that I have seen all had the
darker orange color to them, but I saw a photo the other day on the net and
that delorean had yellow also.
I'm just wondering if they switched to a different color some time during
production, or maybe they just turn yellow from sunfading?
Adam
_________________________________________________________________
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Tue, 01 Jan 2002 13:04:08 -0800
From: "Adam Price" <acprice1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: (DML) Different tail light colors... and brake pads.
[ Moderator's note: I'm a bit curious why many go to great pains to work around simply ordering something from one of the DeLorean shops ]
I need brake pads. Does anyone know of some pads that are readily
available from napa or autozone or other common parts stores? I spent a long
time yesterday crossreferencing parts to no avail. I was told by an autozone
employee that RepcoParts went out of business, I also tried KEM, Girling,
BAP/GEON, and those MINTEX pads that were posted to the board a while back.
None of the parts numbers were in there.
Adam 16683
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2002 21:36:37 -0000
From: "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: caution and warning labels
As part of my restoration I bought a complete set of Caution and Warning label for my car. Problem I have is they just won't stick in place, especially on the under side of the engine cover ie The Vacuum house routing label. No amount of de greasing or cleaning will let them bond to the surface.
What can I do or use to make then stick? I don't want to use a glue that id going to destroy anything.
Cheers
Paul
#6463
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2002 16:47:44 -0500
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Saddest Delorean E-bay post i have ever seen
I guess some people are taking advantage of Delorean enthusiest on E-bay
with the new Diecast Cars by selling them for $30-35 + plus shipping. It's
too bad people buying them don't know any better that you can order it
direct for less.
BUT....
This auction from Brooklyn, NY takes the cake!
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1684746778
Not only is the low low price (without a reserve...how nice) of $49.99 a
real deal, but you also have to note their spelling and grammer in the
auction!
UGHHH!!!!!
I hope that nobody bids on this!
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2002 17:55:22 EST
From: Senatorpack@xxxxxx
Subject: Re: caution and warning labels
Paul,
Clean the old sticker off with 3 m adhesive remover. Use a heat gun to
gently heat the new sticker, and quickly apply to the surface.
Sincerely,
Mike
In a message dated 01/01/2002 5:48:07 PM Eastern Standard Time,
paul.salsbury@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
<< Subj: [DML] caution and warning labels
Date: 01/01/2002 5:48:07 PM Eastern Standard Time
From: paul.salsbury@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx (Paul Salsbury)
Reply-to: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
As part of my restoration I bought a complete set of Caution and Warning
label for my car. Problem I have is they just won't stick in place,
especially on the under side of the engine cover ie The Vacuum house routing
label. No amount of de greasing or cleaning will let them bond to the surface.
What can I do or use to make then stick? I don't want to use a glue that id
going to destroy anything.
Cheers
Paul
#6463
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2002 17:16:33 -0600
From: "Kevin Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Stick shift plate
I was playing with some tempered fiber board, my table saw, and new router
to make a shift plate for my 5 speed. I've got a couple of templates done
(though the slender fingers tend to break off on the TFB). I want to
eventually get one made of stainless.
Any other 5 steed spick shifts in the Houston area want to drop by to see if
our cars are similar enough that my template would work for others? email me
and we can set up a meeting.
Also.. I keep thinking that I was warned once as a youngster not to rest my
hand on the stick because that would make pressure on the stick and cause
problems or wear on the tranny. Is there any truth to that? If there is--
then it might be better to just abandon the idea because tolerances are very
tight between certain gears....
Thanks,
Kevin
#4687, Houston/Clear Lake
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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 01 Jan 2002 19:26:20 -0500
From: Watkins Family <watbmv@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Facia's Glossy/Matte
Is there a distinct difference in the Glossy facia and the Matte? I'm
thinking of a new front facia. Mine is warped and needs repainting. At
approx $650.00 a new one may be better. The only one's for the front
appear to be matte.
Tom
#005732
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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2002 19:00:17 -0600
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: caution and warning labels
I used good old "Gorilla Snot", in polite company, 3M Weatherstrip adhesive.
Scott Mueller
----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Salsbury
Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2002 3:36 PM
Subject: [DML] caution and warning labels
> As part of my restoration I bought a complete set of Caution and Warning
label for my car.
Snipped
> What can I do or use to make then stick? I don't want to use a glue that
id going to destroy anything.
>
> Cheers
>
> Paul
> #6463
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2002 18:30:43 -0800 (PST)
From: Christian Williams <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Torsion Bar Problem
Since this is such a rare problem, I figured I'd follow up with what I
ended up doing. My problem was with the passenger side tortion bar (which
are still easy to find). We tried to adjust my bar, but couldn't since the
bar and the retaining clamp had basically become one piece now (now way to
get the 2 apart, especially under all of the bar's torque).
I took the car to Don and his guys at the DeLorean Motor Center in Garden
Grove, CA. They ended up having to torch the bar out. Once out, the bar
and retaining clamp had to be replaced.
You should absolutly talk to the body shop about paying for the repairs.
I'm not even sure if you'll be able to find a drivers side tortion bar.
Good luck though!
-Christian
On Mon, 31 Dec 2001, daveswingle2 wrote:
> This is NOT a good thing. I've seen this one time (Christian W, if
> you're out there, I'm talking about your car!)
>
> The bar is actually probably not bent permananently, but what has
> happened is that the doofus that took it out used the wrong (too
> small) allen wrench on the bar (or did not insert it all the way) and
> caused the head of the torsion bar to expand very slightly. This is
> NOT visible to the naked eye. This has caused the splines on the
> torsion bar to seize into the retaining clamp. When tightened, rather
> than sliding down the bar, the clamp actually compressed the bar
> causing it to bend (picture trying to press on both ends of a soda
> straw with your hands- what happens to the straw?). On the one I've
> seen like this we put a couple of washers under the torsion bar
> retaining clamp to space it back from the body slightly. There is NO
> WAY To adjust the torsion bar with this problem in place, and you may
> even have a hard time removing it from the car without removing the
> roof panel and/or the back window since you cannot get the clamp off
> the bar.
>
> You may want to engage in further discussions with the bodyshop at
> least as far as paying to fix it.
>
> Only solution is probably a new torsion bar and clamp.
>
> Dave
>
>
>
> --- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Aaron PETERSON" <mrroboto1@xxxx> wrote:
> > Hello,
> >
> > I am experiencing problems with the driver side door torsion bar.
> It seems that a local body shop bent the bar, while replacing a door
> hinge, that the door will only stay half way up, even with a new
> strut on it. Is it possible for the bar to be bent back (the middle
> is bowed outward) without causing damage to the bar?
> >
> > Aaron P.
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Wed, 02 Jan 2002 01:53:42 -0000
From: "carnut4849" <gmfm1@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Coolant Recovery
Happy New Year to Everyone,
Prestone also makes a coolant recovery system that you use with
the flushing tee. The tee goes in on the heater hose and this plastic
hose goes over the end where the pressure cap goes. When the garden
hose is attached to the tee and turned on, the old coolant is pushed
out into the clear plastic hose and into a large clear plastic cube.
You then take that to a recycle center. I have picked up two of these
as close outs at stores, but have not used it yet. I believe that the
cube holds about 5 gallons of liquid. It will be months before I try
to use this, so if anybody has used this system, let us know how it
went.
Thanks,
Gary Masie
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Message: 14
Date: Wed, 02 Jan 2002 04:01:57 -0000
From: "daveswingle2" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Texas (now Illinois) Monster Truck
The infamous "Texas Monster Truck DMC" has made its way to Illinois
where Rich Weissensel has taken on its restoration as his latest
project. Here in Illinois it may actually be useful in the snow!
Looks like a big job - it's in pretty rough shape.
See at: http://www.dmcnews.com/mydmc.html
Dave Swingle (for Rich)
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Message: 15
Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2002 23:24:45 -0500
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: door strut questions (up or down?)
We just had a cool New Years Day DeLorean party at my place. Three (and one
half) DeLoreans were there. (woo-hoo!)
Questions:
What is the proper orientation of the door struts? Does the rod belong on
the top or the bottom or does it matter?
I looked at photos of Rob Grady's green DeLorean, and his has the rods
pointing down. I suppose that if anyone knows then he would.
My car has the rods pointing down too and are leaking oil. They have been
leaking ever since I had the car (almost 2 years). I assume that if my rods
were pointing up, then the oil would stay in the bottom and not leak out.
But then instead of leaking oil, I suppose they would loose their charge
faster. Oil is thicker than the nitrogen charge, so if it is a choice
between leaking one or the other then it would be better to leak the thick
oil because it would drain a lot slower than the thin nitrogen.
My struts are also probably over-charged. We took one off today to see how
far the door would open without the strut. It didn't. Instead it rested on
the latches. Since I hear that there should be about 4" gap between the
bottom of the door and the door sill, then at least this tells me that my
torsion bar isn't over-torqued. But with the strut in place, I have to hold
on to the door or else goes up with such force that it will bounce at the
top of travel. I have already determined that I have 'cheap' struts that do
not slow down at the end of travel. Better struts have a dampening
mechanism to stop this. Mine are Lift-o-mat brand. By the way, the weather
was cold -- definitely worthy of wearing a coat. In hot Florida weather the
door has a greater tendancy to pop open.
The other two guys (Jim Sleeth & Randy Stribling)'s DeLoreans had their
struts mounted 'upside down' compared to mine such that the rods were
pointing up. Jim said that his struts are fairly new, but are not as strong
as they were when he first put them on. My theory is that his struts lost
some of their charge due to leaking nitrogen instead of oil.
Does anyone have an official answer?
Walt Tampa, FL
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Message: 16
Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2002 23:50:51 -0500
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: caution and warning labels
> I used good old "Gorilla Snot", in polite company, 3M Weatherstrip
adhesive.
I favor Scott's Gorilla Snot idea as long as you are using the stainless
steel version of the warning labels. But if you are using peel & stick
vinyl then I would be worried that the snot would leave bumps underneath.
In that case I would use 3M Snot-in-a-spray-can better known as 3M spray
contact adhesive (in polite company. :)
Walt Tampa, FL
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Message: 17
Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2002 23:54:19 -0500
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Facia's Glossy/Matte
> Is there a distinct difference in the Glossy facia and the Matte?
They only Matte ones I have ever seen were sun faded glossy ones. I think
all new fascias are only glossy unless they are selling some OEM unpainted
ones?
Walt Tampa, FL
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 00:13:46 -0500
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: (DML) Different tail light colors... and brake pads.
> [ Moderator's note: I'm a bit curious why many go to great pains to work
>around simply ordering something from one of the DeLorean shops ]
The reason why I bought my parking brake pads locally is because they were
about 1/2 or 1/4th the price of what DMC Houston wanted. Their pricing
wasn't clear if I needed to order two pairs (for both rear wheels) or if one
kit included all four pads. Also since I needed them quicker than UPS could
do on a holiday season, I just got them locally. No offense to the DeLorean
vendors. I have been keeping them well-fed financially speaking.
Adam,
Those Mintex pads that I listed a while back were for the
parking/emergency/hand brake, NOT the regular pedal stomping
stopping-the-car brakes. Sorry for the confusion.
Walt Tampa, FL
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 19
Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 00:13:15 -0500
From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Saddest Delorean E-bay post i have ever seen
Would it be a crime if one of us ( perhaps me?) were to inform the high
bidder that they are available at Delorean.com for $29.95? I have already
conveyed this to about 4 high bidders that the cars were going for about
$100.00. Usually I don't bother but I can't see the seller ripping off
people. They even say "rare Delorean". Tell me if I am wrong. I have
received many "thank you"s from these high bidders. I guess people who are
not on the DML do not know about these models.
Joseph
vin #2850
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
To: "Dmcnews (E-mail)" <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2002 4:47 PM
Subject: [DML] Saddest Delorean E-bay post i have ever seen
> I guess some people are taking advantage of Delorean enthusiest on E-bay
> with the new Diecast Cars by selling them for $30-35 + plus shipping.
It's
> too bad people buying them don't know any better that you can order it
> direct for less.
>
> BUT....
>
> This auction from Brooklyn, NY takes the cake!
> http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1684746778
>
> Not only is the low low price (without a reserve...how nice) of $49.99 a
> real deal, but you also have to note their spelling and grammer in the
> auction!
>
> UGHHH!!!!!
>
> I hope that nobody bids on this!
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 20
Date: Wed, 02 Jan 2002 05:17:07 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Torsion Bar Problem
I don't know if this will help but I had a problem getting the anchor
bracket off of the RH torsion bar to adjust it. I carefully worked it
off with screwdrivers, bars, wood, and hammers (only on the ends).
After I was able to remove the bracket and torsion bar I very slowly
and carefully filed the splines on the torsion bar. (I had another
broken one to test on the bracket and the problem was the splines on
the torsion bar). After much filing and fitting the bracket would go
on and off smoothly. ONLY WORK ON THE SPLINES NEVER ANYWHERE ELSE! If
the problem is because the head of the torsion bar has expanded
because of the wrong or loose allen wrench you may not be able to do
this. Examine the inside of the allen on the end of the torsion bar
for cracks, you can also use a magniflux machine or the spray cans to
look for cracks. I do not recomend this but mention it only because of
the expense and scarcity of the torsion bars. As an aside I am
currently seeking broken torsion bars to experiment with possible
methods of repair. It may be possible to weld a broken bar back
together although I do not know how it will affect the heat treatment.
If you send me broken bars at his time I cannot say that you will
receive a repaired one or not as I don't know if it can be done.
E-mail me offlist if you want to participate in this experiment.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Christian Williams <delorean@xxxx> wrote:
> Since this is such a rare problem, I figured I'd follow up with what
I
> ended up doing. My problem was with the passenger side tortion bar
(which
> are still easy to find). We tried to adjust my bar, but couldn't
since the
> > To address comments privately to the moderating team, please
address:
> > moderator@xxxx
> >
> > To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 21
Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 00:29:07 -0500
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: new parking brake cross-reference
I want to make a clarification to my earlier posting and to Stian
Birkeland's posting. Other numbers on the box that my Mintex PARKING brake
pads came in gave the following additional numbers: MGB709AF.
By the way, the designation "MGB" is only a coincidence to the MG B car. A
while back (maybe a few years ago by now) Stian Birkeland gave the following
Mintex cross reference for the rear brake pads (the foot pedal brakes, not
the hand brake) MINTEX MGB633AF. These might fit the DeLorean (I haven't
checked personally), but the same thing could not fit the MG B. If I am
wrong about this, give me some proof. Otherwise update your cross-reference
lists.
Thanks,
Walt Tampa, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
> MINTEX
> JLM 001514 "hand brake pads"
> Also fits:
> Aston Martin 76-
> Daimler Series II/III 73-
> Daimler XJR-S Range 88-
> Jaguar E Type Range 71-75
> Jaguar Sovereign Range 83-
> Jaguar XJ/XJS/XJ6 75-83
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 22
Date: Wed, 02 Jan 2002 05:33:16 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Clutch master expiration date
Since you are purchesing these parts from Rob Grady he can give you
all of this info. The adjustable link was a bad solution for the
plastic line. Bleeding is a two person job unless you have specialized
equipment for bleeding hydraulic systems. Rob can give you the correct
length to set the adjustable link. You can replace the clutch line
using jackstands. Be sure to use Castrol GTLMA DOT 4 brake fluid. If
the clutch went out on you then the fluid in the brake system should
be checked and probably flushed too. According to the owner's manual
the brakes and clutch are to be flushed every 2 years! If it hasn't
been done for a long time and then you do flush be prepared to rebuild
the entire system as once you wash out the dirt and put the clean
stuff in everything will start to leak. Rarely do these types of
things go "suddenly". It was probably not working correctly for a
while and was leaking until enough fluid got out and then the clutch
wouldn't work. It pays to examine the car carefully. If it was an
airplane you would be doing a "preflight" and should have seen the
problem comming. Since it's only a car we jump right in and don't look
for anything until it won't go anymore! There are very few problems
that you can't catch with often and careful visual inspections and a
knowledge of repair history after all it is a 20 year old car!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "mcookwwi" <mark@xxxx> wrote:
> Well, either the 'D' had 2002 jitters or its clutch master cylinder
> apparently had an expiration date of 12/31/2001, because it died
last
> night on my way to a party. Luckily I was close enough to my house
to
> make it back into the garage, but I can't even get it into gear this
> morning.
>
> When I bought 10901, it had (and still has) the adjustable clutch
> link. I assume that contributed to the master cylinder going out. I
> have since purchased the braided line, and a new master cylinder. I
> will be ordering a new slave tomorrow from PJ Grady so I can do
> everything at once according to DMC Joe's recommendations. I don't
> want to damage the new master again, but I don't have the original
> clutch pedal link. Can I set up the adjustable link to the 'oem'
> length so I do not damage the new cylinder? Does anyone know what
> that length is?
>
> Also
>
> 1) is it possible for me to bleed the system myself or will I need
> help as I assume?
> 2) will I need to have the car on a lift in order to replace the
> plastic clutch line or can I do it on stands?
>
> We appreciate your help!
> Mark and 10901
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Message: 23
Date: Wed, 02 Jan 2002 05:34:47 -0000
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Clutch master expiration date
Mark - I have been accumulating a great deal of experience recently
with these items. I've been working with two fellow PNDC members on
their cars. The adjustable link is a good thing, because you can
take up any existing wear in the various joints of the linkage
system, and obtain maximum pedal travel and fluid movement. The more
volume of fluid you can move, the more travel you will get with the
slave cylinder. After the clutch hydraulic system is fully installed
and bled, adjust the length to obtain about 1/16" pedal travel before
the pushrod "feels" resistance from the master cylinder. That's
where I set mine, and it works great. The fluid line can be replaced
with the car up on stands, as long as it is high enough so that you
can maneuver around safely. It is best to have two people working on
the bleeding operation ... one to "pump and hold" the pedal, and the
other to release and tighten the bleed screw. You can stick a drain
tube from the slave cylinder bleed screw into a jar with fluid in it,
and do it solo, but it's difficult to get 100% fresh fluid in the
system this way. I personally modified my new slave cylinder to
allow for gravity bleeding with no pumping required, but the
modification is not reversible, and requires some special tooling,
miscellaneous fittings and things, and some mechanical skill.
Toby Peterson VIN 2248
Winged1
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "mcookwwi" <mark@xxxx> wrote:
Can I set up the adjustable link to the 'oem'length so I do not
damage the new cylinder? Does anyone know what that length is?
>
> Also
>
> 1) is it possible for me to bleed the system myself or will I need
> help as I assume?
> 2) will I need to have the car on a lift in order to replace the
> plastic clutch line or can I do it on stands?
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Message: 24
Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 01:41:42 EST
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: Revsese WAS: Why the DeLorean?
In a message dated 12/30/01 6:20:57 PM Central Standard Time, gmfm1@xxxxxxx
writes:
> Dear Paul,
> On all of the 5 speed manuals that I have seen, when you shift
> into reverse, you have to lift the shifter up and pull it the last
> amount to the left and down to get into reverse. This is a saftey, so
> that you don't go into reverse accidently. If the pin on the shifter
> was removed or if the plate that the pin rides on was altered one
> could go into reverse without lifting the shifter. If you are happy
> with it you can leave it or you can find out why it isn't set up this
> way.
> Happy Holidays,
> Gary Masie
>
Hello,
actually on all of the 5 speeds i have seen (and i work at a quick lube place
where we check the lights, including reverse on every car we work on - and
i've personally done at least 100 manuals) i have never found another car
where you have to lift it up to get it into reverse. it's usually where 6th
gear would be on the delorean. then again, we rarely see anything remotely
exotic, few european cars in fact.
Andy
Soma576@xxxxxxx
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 25
Date: Wed, 02 Jan 2002 06:50:30 -0500
From: jwit6@xxxxxx
Subject: RE: (DML) Different tail light colors... and brake pads.
D-59 comes to mind for the fronts. Autozone is terrible when asked to help with a cross reff part.
>
>I need brake pads. Does anyone know of some pads that are readily
>available from napa or autozone or other common parts stores? I spent a long
>time yesterday crossreferencing parts to no avail. I was told by an autozone
>employee that RepcoParts went out of business, I also tried KEM, Girling,
>BAP/GEON, and those MINTEX pads that were posted to the board a while back.
>None of the parts numbers were in there.
>
>Adam 16683
>
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