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There are 15 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Sun Star Models.
From: "Jack Stiefel" <jack@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Porshe Powered Delorean, Least in part
From: "dsscid" <shain@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: NEW Delorean Caricature
From: "Brian Henderlong" <bhender1@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Window motor
From: "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: Re: Torsion Bars ReVisited
From: RJRavalli@xxxxxxx
6. Re: Re: Torsion Bars reversed?
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
7. Sunstar model... my experience!!!
From: "Dan RC30" <Danrc30@xxxxxxxxxxx>
8. RE: Re: Torsion Bars reversed?
From: "IN2TIME" <Gary@xxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: Torsion Bars reversed? / Extra strong struts
From: Jan van de Wouw <jvdwouw@xxxxxxx>
10. Re: Sun Star Models.
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
11. DeLorean Car Show Sunstar models
From: kkoncelik@xxxxxxx
12. Re: Sun Star Models.
From: P12C16@xxxxxxx
13. RE: Torsion Bar failure?
From: "Montgomery, Ken" <kenm@xxxxxxxx>
14. Prototype body dies?
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
15. Door struts
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Sat, 8 Dec 2001 08:57:27 -0500 (Eastern Standard Time)
From: "Jack Stiefel" <jack@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Sun Star Models.
I hope you were kidding about the cd changer part.... You know thats the ash
tray??
Just checking
Jack & Virginia Stiefel
81 DeLorean Vin 03461
88 Jaguar XJ-SC V-12
2001 PT Cruiser
-------Original Message-------
From: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Saturday, December 08, 2001 8:48:53 AM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Sun Star Models.
Well, I just got my models today. Both the regular DeLorean, and
the BTTF version. Wow! The detail is excellent! They were both
well worth the money! I'm also very pleased with the fact that the
regular version is based off of a real car with after market parts. It
makes it seem all the more realistic to me. From the CD
changer in the center console, down to even DMC Joe's
Overheat protector in the back.
Yeah, they are flawed in a couple of spots in as inaccuracies.
But the sharp detail and the affordable price far outwiegh these
little items. If I paid over $100, then perhaps I would nit-pick. But
the models really are worth it. I had to order them online. Every
single toy store here in town that had them sold out immediately!
Now I know why!
If you are thinking about buying one, I would highly reccomed it!
-Robert
vin 6585 "X"
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.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 08 Dec 2001 14:25:15 -0000
From: "dsscid" <shain@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Porshe Powered Delorean, Least in part
I now can start working on my fuel system to get my DeLorean back on
the road after 10 yrs. I just recently had to replace my exhuast
manifold to fix a couple studs that have been broken, and to weld my
exhaust pipe back together so my catalytic converter could be hooked
back up. I'll tell you now that it is worth every cent of the $800
that pj grady would charge. During the fix i needed some metric bolts
so i went to a local place, and accidently ran into a porshe racing
place that builds the motors for the 24hr formula races. As it turns
out porshe's use the same type of mechanical fuel system the DeLorean
uses. The guy was able to free up my delorean fuel distributor, and
got me a porshe fuel distributor to bolt on as well. So monday i will
be hooking it all up. Maybe this will lead to some sort of
alternative for the delorean. But they also offered there services to
tune and adjust the car as well. I'll keep you posted on the
progress.
- Shain
#10140
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Message: 3
Date: Sat, 8 Dec 2001 11:13:25 -0500
From: "Brian Henderlong" <bhender1@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: NEW Delorean Caricature
> The artist has been working on this Delorean "caricature" for us for about
9
> months now ... <snip>
It's a pretty good likeness! Too bad they chose aftermarket wheels, though.
It looks like there's something on the license plate... Marty, can you tell
us what it says?
- Brian Henderlong / Tampa, FL
- http://home.tampabay.rr.com/deloreans/index.htm
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Message: 4
Date: Sat, 8 Dec 2001 16:36:04 -0000
From: "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Window motor
Hi all
With my drivers side window not going up or down I fially decided to take the motor assembly out today.
Heres the problem:-
The motor turns fine however this in turn does not turn the worm drive, is there anyway inside the workings to try and sort this out or is a new assembly needed, or as my motor is fine can I get just the worm drive??
Cheers
Paul
#6463
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 5
Date: Sat, 08 Dec 2001 12:17:13 EST
From: RJRavalli@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: Torsion Bars ReVisited
John, Are you saying we would have to pay to have a torsion bar made, or that we simply need to request that we would like one in the future? (Wouldn't all owners like to know they would have one in the future if they needed it?)
Exciting news! I'm just surprised this discussion/project was never pursured earlier on the list (is it because of the 20 year anniversary? Maybe we're all starting to feel a bit old) :)
Richard
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Message: 6
Date: Sat, 08 Dec 2001 18:07:09 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Torsion Bars reversed?
Sorry, Toby, you're wrong. As I said to James Grant when he posted the same suggestion -
try it. Take two short pieces of string, twist one one way and one the other. Set them
next to each other on a table, noting they are twisted in opposite directions. Now turn
one round 180 degrees. They'll still be twisted in opposite directions....
Or a better way to describe it would be to take two bolts, one with a left-hand thread.
Do you think the left-hand thread is reversed just by turning the bolt around?
Martin
#1458
tmpintnl wrote:
> Sorry guys, but I don't agree. If you swap the bars end-for-end at
> the same time you swap sides, the actuation direction would be
> correct. For instance, if the LH bar broke, you could install a RH
> bar on the left side if you installed the splined end into the LH
> forward hinge (with some challenging modifications to the hinge), and
> the square end into a redesigned retention bracket in the back. I'm
> not suggesting that this is practical, but it is possible.
>
> Toby Peterson VIN 2248
> Winged1
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Message: 7
Date: Sat, 8 Dec 2001 14:56:14 -0500
From: "Dan RC30" <Danrc30@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Sunstar model... my experience!!!
A friend of mine, Matt Olans, flew in from AZ this week for a visit. So naturally we took a ride up to PJ Grady's to see the progress on his twin turbo DeLorean, as well as to take it out for a ride. The car is looking sweet... ;-). Anyway, I still hadn't received my car from www.diecastmuscle.com, and Rob said to me he was selling them. So I figured that I'd just get one from him when we got there on Thursday. I guess I should've asked him to save me one. We got there and guess what, the last one he had went an hour before I got there. AAAHHH!!!!!!! "I want one of these things already!!!" Debbie mentioned that Rob had brought one back to his house that he was going to keep for himself. He said I was welcome to that one if I wanted since he was getting another shipment of them in a few days. I said "great!" So, off we went to pick up my new model. I was happy then. And this one was actually owned by Rob Grady himself!!! (Nick P. ;-)) Anyway... we picked up the model and Matt and I then drove off from Rob's place. I was checking the model out and I just had to open it to see what the beef was about with the passenger door not staying open! Well, I finally got the box open, and as Matt as my witness, both of my doors worked perfectly. They both stayed open! So, I guess it pays to get the model from PJ Grady. Even the Sunstar model works correctly!!! :-P.
Take care all, and be safe this holiday season...
---Dan
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 8
Date: Sat, 8 Dec 2001 13:13:56 -0800
From: "IN2TIME" <Gary@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Re: Torsion Bars reversed?
Toby said <snip> If you swap the bars end-for-end at the same time you swap
sides, the actuation direction would be
correct. </snip>
Take a ballpoint pen spring and try to twist it clockwise. It will probably
try to tighten the spring. Turn it end-for-end and again try to turn it
clockwise. The effect will be the same.
If that doesn't convince you, consider this. A nut doesn't switch between
"right-handed" and "left-handed" threads when you flip it end-for-end.
The torsion bars have either a right hand twist or a left hand twist
specific to the side they are made for. Turning them around for the other
side won't change the twist.
Tx
Gary@xxxxxxxxxxx
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Message: 9
Date: Sun, 09 Dec 2001 00:23:28 +0100
From: Jan van de Wouw <jvdwouw@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Torsion Bars reversed? / Extra strong struts
[Moderator's note: Obviously Jan has a point, I did feel the thread should have ended but a couple of late posts looked like they could make interesting discussion. I will end it now with the exception of allowing Toby one last response if he elects to do that.]
Obiously the moderator has changed his mind and this thread isn't closed,
it has to be since Tobys' response did get through...
In that case I think this message should go through too...
Toby wrote;
> Sorry guys, but I don't agree. If you swap the bars end-for-end at
> the same time you swap sides, the actuation direction would be
> correct.
[snip]
> not suggesting that this is practical, but it is possible.
Toby,
I hate to get personal, but it REALLY ISN'T POSSIBLE!
Lets make a comparison with bolts since you obiously DO understand those.
If you take a normally threaded bolt (right-turning, or whatever the correct
English term is) you have to turn the nut clockwise to tighten it.
If you flip this over you het the head of your bolt at the end where you put
your wrench. Do you have to turn the other way to tighten it?
NO, you're still going to have to turn it clockwise and there is NO way to
alter this without re-threading the bolt AND nut to become left-turning.
Now, I am no mechanic or engineer or something like that, but to me it is
really clear thet there is ABSOLUTELY NO WAY to reverse the Torsion Bars
WHILE keeping the retention bracket at the rear of the door...
The ONLY way to get a RH bar to work on the LH door is to reverse the
COMPLETE setup; the front RH hinge would become the rear LH hinge and the
retention bracket would be above the windshield.
If anyone can PROVE me wrong, I'll gladly take this back,
but I'm 99,99% sure no one can anyway.
An even simpler conclusion can be made by the fact that we actually DO have
a LH and RH Torsion Bar. Don't you think it would have been a LOT cheaper to
have only ONE sort of this item instead of two?
If it had been possible to do so, I'm convinced they would have designed the
system so that you could use the bar on either side of the car; it would
just have splines on either end and the hinges and retention brackets would
all have the same splines in them too...
Now lets PLEASE close the Torsion Bar Reversal Thread...
I would like to make one last comment on the idea of stronger or double
struts; you'd have to exert MUCH more force on the door to get it up and
opening since there simply isn't enough leverage for the strut to push up
the door in the initial travel.
They didn't put in a Torsion Bar AND a strut for nothing; they both have
their own section of the doors' travel in which they are active.
Torqueing the bars so they completely open without the struts just puts more
stress on both the bars and the doors, hinges and body, especially with the
doors closed.
As I said; I'm no expert, but that doesn't mean I can't know what I'm
talking about. Nether does being an expert mean that you're allways right.
Now let's please talk about something else...
JAN van de Wouw
Thinking Different... Using a Mac...
Living the Dream... Driving a DeLorean...
#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000
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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 09 Dec 2001 00:08:15 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Sun Star Models.
No, in my car that's the change holder :)
Seriouly though, if you look at the radio in the center console, it
appears to be an after market unit. Kinda like the Clairion untis
with the dial on the right side to control the CD's & volume. If you
open the passenger door, you can even tell that it sits out farther
than the center vents above.
-Robert
vin 6585 "X"
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Jack Stiefel" <jack@xxxx> wrote:
> I hope you were kidding about the cd changer part.... You know
thats the ash
> tray??
>
> Just checking
>
> Jack & Virginia Stiefel
> 81 DeLorean Vin 03461
> 88 Jaguar XJ-SC V-12
> 2001 PT Cruiser
> http://www.sacketmansion.com
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Message: 11
Date: Sat, 8 Dec 2001 22:19:17 EST
From: kkoncelik@xxxxxxx
Subject: DeLorean Car Show Sunstar models
Well I have a volunteer to run the event but due to the ways in which these
cars are being modified by you owners I don't think one catagory will do. It
looks like we will have a contest and break it down into catagories from
there. The person running this will make the future posts.
I also will not disclose what each of you are doing I have heard some pretty
interesting ideas. (CD Player huh)
So now you all need two models one to keep as original and one to modify for
Memphis. If this works out well it will become a regular part of the show.
Any comments
Ken
DeLorean Car Show.com
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Message: 12
Date: Sat, 8 Dec 2001 19:46:34 EST
From: P12C16@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Sun Star Models.
I took the entire console/dash out of the sunstar car, and yes, there is no
cassette player, only a slit for a CD to go through. I wish it was a
cassette, but no one will ever notice(until now...)
Patrick
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Message: 13
Date: Sat, 8 Dec 2001 21:19:43 -0800
From: "Montgomery, Ken" <kenm@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Torsion Bar failure?
Richard,
Your door opens too fast?? The gas strut is not too hard to replace. The
torsion bar is something I would never touch. It's very dangerous and should
only be done by someone with the right tools and experience. The club is
going to have a tech session next year with Don Steiger, One of the things
he can do is adjust the torsion bars.
The easiest way to tell if the bar needs adjusting is to remove the strut
and see where the door wants to be. With the strut off the door should hang
open a few inches (depending on the temperature). If your door is opening
too fast perhaps someone set the torsion bar up too high before you got the
car.
Ken
=======================================================
Ken Montgomery Sacramento, CA VIN #10911 'OUTTIME'
http://pages.sbcglobal.net/montkw/delorean/index.htm
mailto:kenm@xxxxxxxx
President, Northern California DeLorean Motor Club
http://www.ncdmc.org
Keeper of the International DeLorean Owners Directory
http://www.dmcnews.com mailto:directory@xxxxxxxxxxx
=======================================================
> -----Original Message-----
> From: RJRavalli@xxxxxxx [mailto:RJRavalli@xxxxxxx]
> Sent: Friday, December 07, 2001 3:12 PM
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: Re: [DML] Torsion Bar failure?
>
>
> My driver's side strut is gone too (door opens too fast) so I
> am very careful and gentle with opening my door. So far I've
> had nothing give way, but I like you am now freshly scared by
> this conversation. I just wish there was someone in this
> area who could look at my torsion bars for me, adjust them if
> necessary, and help me replace my gas strut. (Are the struts
> just as difficult to replace as the torsion bar?)
>
> Richard
> Modesto, CA (Would any Northern Cal DeLorean owners be
> willing to help me out for a small fee?)
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
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Message: 14
Date: Sun, 9 Dec 2001 01:00:56 -0500
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Prototype body dies?
Can anyone say how the stainless panels on the prototype bodies were made?
Were they made using dies or by some other method? I have never seen a
prototype in person, but from the photos the body work appears to be
excellent. If they used dies to make these then it seems prohibitively
expensive to make them up only to use them for a couple of cars.
If they used dies then my next question is (naturally) where are they now?
Just curious,
Walt Tampa, FL
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Message: 15
Date: Sun, 09 Dec 2001 07:17:01 +0000
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Door struts
I think the only thing easier than replacing door struts is putting in
gasoline. If you're really awkward, maybe 10 minutes. No mystique
other than holding the door open while you do it. I use a tip from
Darryl (see his write-up in the tech section for removing door panels),
one of those adjustable truck cargo bars from Harbor Freight. Open the
door and adjust the bar to keep it open. There's a little wire clip on
the spherical joint (each end) just push it sideways and remove it (if
you're not sure about this, practice it before you start the job, it's
just a safety, the strut won't jump off.) it's in a little hole in the
joint, lifts right out (new struts normally come with new wire clips, if
somehow your old clips are rusted or bent or destroyed, no problem).
Now, to get the strut off, pop each end with your fist or a soft head
hammer or most anything, you're going to discard it anyway. Reverse the
procedure with the new one. One caveat, replace the bottom end first,
if you do the top one first you won't be able to move the bottom strut
to the proper position to replace the clip. Other than that, you may
wish to add a little grease to the balls while you're there and you
should be able to remove the bar and hold the door in place by hand (if
not adjust the bar to the proper height) while you pop on the top end of
the strut. If putting in gasoline is harder than this, you probably
need to replace your gas cap (or your front struts).
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