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There are 13 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Re: Historic Blunders
From: delorean31@xxxxxxx
2. Nose bra updated info
From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
3. Re: Re: Historic Blunders
From: Marc A Levy <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: "We have Separation"
From: billschaferabn@xxxxxxx
5. Re: Delorean on flatbed
From: "at88mph" <at88mph@xxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: Delorean on flatbed
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
7. awesome delorean for sale on ebay
From: Cliff Andrews <fen2k@xxxxxxxxx>
8. Headlight Conversions
From: "Robert Rooney" <dmcvegas@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: Headlight Conversions
From: "Dave Price" <davep@xxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Facia Paint part II
From: kkoncelik@xxxxxxx
11. Re: fender reproduction
From: James Espey <james@xxxxxxxxxx>
12. Re: Headlight Conversions
From: Mark Noeltner <mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: Re: Historic Blunders
From: Dee Moats <Dee-Moats@xxxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Fri, 5 May 2000 02:56:04 EDT
From: delorean31@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: Historic Blunders
In a message dated 5/4/00 8:31:03 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
heskin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
<< I'm sure I'm missing something here..
Assuming the British Gov't destroyed the original dies used to
stamp the body panels, why can't some enterprising person take an
existing LF fender (for example), make a new die from that, and get a
few hundred fenders produced? Are the starup costs just too great?
Are there legal issues with copying the design? Obviously, there is
enough demand. Has this been tried before?
>>
One thing I was wondering. I thought the only items actually processed at
the factory were the fiberglass underbodies and that items such as the
stainless steel panels were made elsewhere. If this is the case how did the
British Government get the dies for the body panels?
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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 5 May 2000 03:23:25 EDT
From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
Subject: Nose bra updated info
Is older better? Not in this case. Speaking to the manufacturer today, I
learned that the limited re-issued De Lorean custom nose bra will be made of
a heavier vinyl than the original, with thicker, more plush backing. Even
the old one I have is really heavy. I thought it came with a storage bag
included in the price, because my used one did, but it turns out they're 7.50
extra. I'll contact those who've ordered to see if they want them or not.
And another plus, it comes with an Owners Manual, which mine did not. :) A
good addition if you're as finicky as me. I always put my key in VERY
carefully so I don't mar my keyhole. I'll take orders until midnight this
Saturday, May 6th. I want to get this order right out because turnaround
time will probably be a month.
These are full-size, one piece, covering the entire front fascia except, of
course, lights and air dam. The bra is held on in twelve places, so it does
not move anywhere. Smooth on top, no "bug flaps." Embossed "De Lorean" in
front.
I have a picture of my original on vin 11174 if you'd like to see it. Just
click on this link: <A
HREF="" href="http://www.egroups.com/files/dmcnews/nosebra.JPG">http://www.egroups.com/files/dmcnews/nosebra.JPG">http://www.egroups.com
/files/dmcnews/nosebra</A><A
HREF="" href="http://www.egroups.com/files/dmcnews/nosebra.JPG">http://www.egroups.com/files/dmcnews/nosebra.JPG">.JPG</A> It looks
great, doesn't it? So does my D! :) The cost is $149.95 plus actual
shipping. Storage bag, $7.50 extra. If we do a re-order at some future
date, the price will definitely be higher. If you can't make up your mind...
why not go ahead and order it? You can always sell it on eBay I can take
credit cards through my business... Visa, Mastercard, American Express.
Please e-mail me or phone immediately at 1-800-833-3920 or
deloreanernst@xxxxxxxx Ask for me.
-Wayne
"Living the dream!"
VIN...11174
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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 05 May 2000 07:54:44 -0400
From: Marc A Levy <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Historic Blunders
Is the demand that great??
For the past 6 years, I have always heard that there were less than 10
left front fenders remaining. With that as a starting point, there are
only a few conclusions that can be made:
1. There is a very low demand for left front fenders
2. There are more than 10 left, and this is just a way to demand high
prices for them.
3. There are enough part's cars around to satisfy the demand.
Either way, as long as the cost of a factory fender is less than or
equal to the cost of making a new one, there will be no need to make new
ones.
heskin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
>
<SNIP>
> Are there legal issues with copying the design? Obviously, there is
> enough demand. Has this been tried before?
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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 5 May 2000 08:43:50 EDT
From: billschaferabn@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: "We have Separation"
Nick,
Happy separation. Well done! I am planning on doing the same thing down
the road with my 82. I would greatly appreciate a step by step w/ pictures
narration of how you did this. Did you have to disconnect may wires and
cables. I was told there were 10 bolts holding it down. Where are they all
located. Good luck on the rest of the project.
Bill #11596
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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 5 May 2000 07:33:53 -0700
From: "at88mph" <at88mph@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Delorean on flatbed
Erik,
If you look under the frame further, you'll see two 'eyes' you can hook a
chain to. There is a set in the front and in the back so they can secure it
tightly.
Hope this helps,
Duke
----- Original Message -----
From: Erik Geerdink <delorean502@xxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, May 04, 2000 4:41 PM
Subject: [DML] Delorean on flatbed
> I need to take my Delorean on a journey via my new flat bed. I don't
> want to run the delorean under it's own power because the reason I'm
> moving it is because of the transmission. So I will be using a wench
> to pull it up onto the trailer. Heres my question: where do I hook
> the chains on the Delorean to pull it up? The only thing i see to
> hook it on is the sway bar, and wouldn't that pull it off? So, if
> someone could tell me that would be great. I'm leaving Saturday
> morning....really really early. Thanks
>
> Erik Geerdink
> 4512
>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Fri, 5 May 2000 09:20:03 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Delorean on flatbed
Erik,
There are "tie down" hooks welded to each corner if the frame. These hooks
are designed specifically for the purpose you have indicated. Be aware that
the front hooks can break if too much force is applied to them.
"We're here to help you"
DMC Joe / De Lorean Services / <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
.
----- Original Message -----
From: Erik Geerdink <delorean502@xxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, May 04, 2000 7:41 PM
Subject: [DML] Delorean on flatbed
Heres my question: where do I hook
> the chains on the Delorean to pull it up? The only thing i see to
> hook it on is the sway bar, and wouldn't that pull it off? So, if
> someone could tell me that would be great. Thanks
>
> Erik Geerdink
> 4512
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Message: 7
Date: Fri, 5 May 2000 09:57:24 -0700 (PDT)
From: Cliff Andrews <fen2k@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: awesome delorean for sale on ebay
hey everyone..
i had seen some messages about people looking for
deloreans at the show coming up..
I saw this on ebay.. it looks to be an incredible car
81 delorean
only 400+ miles!!!!!!!
one owner
I would love to buy this car, but im not in a position
to do so after my getting #10854.
I would like to see this car go to a good home and a
good garage :)
check it out!!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=322404502&r=0&t=0
__________________________________________________
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Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com/
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Message: 8
Date: Fri, 05 May 2000 18:04:21 -0000
From: "Robert Rooney" <dmcvegas@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Headlight Conversions
I know that the headlight conversion thread has been discussed
before, but I wanted to ask everyone here for both your opinions, &
your ideas. I know that there was the one example where an owner used
the lamps off of a Nissan Maxima. From what I was told (from Don in
Garden Grove), this is not a feasable option. The headlights are not
adjustable, and the angle on them is so, that they are constantly
shining up in the air. Silicone was also used to mount them in place,
so if a bulb burned out, you have to rip the seal, and then re-adhear
everything when you are done. I like the look of the stock lights,
but I also like the new HID lamps too. So my question is this: Is
there a way to safely remove the vaccum from within the sealed beams,
cut the back ends, and remove the filaments to directly convert the
lights? If this could be done, would the electrical system be
afected? I think the current headlights are 45/65 watts, but I've
also seen some HID's rated @ 85/110. Ideas, cautions?
-Robert
vin 6585
Build: 3 NOV 1981
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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 5 May 2000 17:22:32 -0700
From: "Dave Price" <davep@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Headlight Conversions
You can buy H4 Hologen light conversion kits, that have a plastic enclosure
the same size as a sealed beam lamp, but have an attatchment for a halogen
bulb in the back... from there you should be able to put whatever blub you
want in it.. they make 90/130 h4 bulbs I believe.. go to www.jcwhitney.com
to check them out.. it's in their headlight section..
- Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Rooney" <dmcvegas@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Friday, May 05, 2000 11:04 AM
Subject: [DML] Headlight Conversions
> I know that the headlight conversion thread has been discussed
> before, but I wanted to ask everyone here for both your opinions, &
> your ideas. I know that there was the one example where an owner used
> the lamps off of a Nissan Maxima. From what I was told (from Don in
> Garden Grove), this is not a feasable option. The headlights are not
> adjustable, and the angle on them is so, that they are constantly
> shining up in the air. Silicone was also used to mount them in place,
> so if a bulb burned out, you have to rip the seal, and then re-adhear
> everything when you are done. I like the look of the stock lights,
> but I also like the new HID lamps too. So my question is this: Is
> there a way to safely remove the vaccum from within the sealed beams,
> cut the back ends, and remove the filaments to directly convert the
> lights? If this could be done, would the electrical system be
> afected? I think the current headlights are 45/65 watts, but I've
> also seen some HID's rated @ 85/110. Ideas, cautions?
>
> -Robert
> vin 6585
> Build: 3 NOV 1981
>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Fri, 5 May 2000 21:19:39 EDT
From: kkoncelik@xxxxxxx
Subject: Facia Paint part II
WELL
I finished again.
Both Josh and Richards cars are done for the second time.
This time I used the DBU which is the base coat clear coat and its a lot more
work
The paint shows a lot more of the defects in the facia. The DAU I used first
covered everything vs this stuff that showed everything.
I used the SEM primer again only this time I thinned it with DT thinner.
Much Much better. (thinned 3 parts primer 1 part reducer) The grey primer
covered everything and you could not see anything through it.
The paint is a DBU base with DRR thinner and I used 1 part paint to 1 1/2
parts thinner. This sprayed very well in the gun. Again I am using an HVLP
gun.
Just a note here
Both Josh and Richards facias belonged in the junkyard before we started.
they were broken, warped, bent you name it they had seen it. Both had been
repainted several times. Richards was in an accident before he got it and he
repaired it. It has about as much bondo (actually flexible bumper repair
kit) in it as it does the original so we had nothing to loose. Both in my
opinion should have been replaced. But we are diehards and probably spent
twice as much in time and labor as a new one would have cost. Both had deep
sanding marks imbedded in the plastic from some earlier attempts.
Well in the first coat of paint all the defects jumped out. So I wet sanded
the paint and reshot it . I did this three times on Richards and then gave
up. We got about 80% of the defects out but the facia was just too bent up.
It looks 100% better but it is not a concourse facia. It will last. The
rear bumper only needed one coat of paint as did Josh's and they looks like
new I did add a gloss reducer at about 15% but I didn't notice any loss of
gloss. Don't waste your time if you are thinking about trying it.
I then clearcoated the cars with clear and an activator. No problem here it
just went on. The rear facia on Richards came out perfect and I mean perfect
until MR Bug decided to land on the side in the clearcoat. Well we plucked
him out and I shot a bit heavy to blend in the oops but I got a little heavy
and got a sag but that will easily sand out but It made me upset that little
Mr Bug flew into it.
Well they came out good but if I had my preference I would use the DAU. I
think the paint is easier to spray even though it is heavier and you have to
watch the heavy settling of the paint.
If the car was metal I think it wouldn't make much difference or if the
facias were clean.
Any way I took a few more pics of the facia that I stripped down totally to
black.
That is the way to go. It came out best of the four facias but its a lot of
work.
I still have to say if you do not paint and this is your first time Don't.
It took me 4 hours to do 2 cars but I have been doing this for a while.
I do like the DAU finish better it is a lower gloss and it has a different
finish than the base coat clear coat. I did find out that once DAU is opened
it goes bad in around 6 months and possibly less. The hardener is more date
sensitive so it goes faster and that is where I got into trouble. So if you
have any old DAU throw it away.
Hope this helps some of you do it yourselfers but my recommendation is to
send it to someone who has a paint booth. This color is hard to paint.
I am very pleased with these two cars considering the condition they were in.
They came out great.
Well so much for this job
Next I will be refinishing mine. While it looks good I think I can do better
but I will have to cut the gloss more.
Pictures are in the vault
Ken
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Message: 11
Date: Fri, 5 May 2000 19:10:47 -0600
From: James Espey <james@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: fender reproduction
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, heskin@xxxx wrote:
> >
> > I'm sure I'm missing something here..
> > why can't some enterprising person take an
> > existing LF fender (for example), make a new die from that, and get a
> > few hundred fenders produced? Are the starup costs just too great?
> > Are there legal issues with copying the design? Obviously, there is
> > enough demand.
>
>I'm not sure that I understand where the approprate level of "demand"
>would come from. That implies that several hundred people would be
>wrecking the front end of their cars, and soon enough that anyone
>making such fenders would recoup the investment. "Enterprising" means
>that the person would expect to make money in a short period of time.
>With the relatively limited number of cars driven often enough to be
>exposed to accidents, there are plenty of spare parts in the form of
>parts cars. As time marches on, the supply of good panels from
>otherwise worn-out cars will tend to increase. The stainless is
There really is not that much demand for LF fenders at this time.
Dave is correct about parts cars being the primary source for LF
fenders. That will probably be the case for some time. The selling
price is also much less than $5000, in fact, I would venture to say
that it would be less than half that.
In the year or so I have been at DMC, we have yet to replace a LF
fender. Periodically we get calls for them, and while we have a
limited supply in stock, it is not an item that we make available for
retail sale. If your LF fender is damaged to the point of needing
replacement, call us and we'll discuss your options.
I am still amazed at the level of severity in which a damaged panel
can still be repaired. See the photos at our website for possibly the
most extreme example.
http://www.delorean.com/service/service.asp
Even at a labor rate of $62.50 an hour, repairing is often cheaper
than replacement, for any of the SS panels. However, SOME panels are
more difficult to repair than others. Hoods are an example, as are
the doors.
>Maybe James would chime in here (maybe not due to competitive
>reasons) but I'd be curious about your view as to the yearly demand
>for replacement DMC body panels. I'd be that its less, way less, then
>100 panels of all 8 SS pieces used on the car, not just front
>fenders.
When the factory closed, owners were fearful that parts would "run
out". SSI even discusses briefly that at some point in the future
fiberglass repros will have to be made and then painted. That day is
a LONG, LONG way off. Our estimate is that at the current rate of
consumption (which undoubtedly will decline over time as the cars age
and are driven lesss, hence last chance for accidents - and poorer
cars will be parted out), there is at least a 20 year supply of
stainless panels.
People always ask about the cost of the panels, and I relate the
story of the right quarter panel that we replaced on a clients car -
about $1000 - which was less than the cost of the quarter panel on
his Lexus.
James Espey
DeLorean Motor Company
Houston, Texas
281/568-9573
800/USA-DMC1
http://www.usadmc.com
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Message: 12
Date: Fri, 05 May 2000 20:07:17 -0500
From: Mark Noeltner <mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Headlight Conversions
Nope, you can't cut the existing sealed beams yourself, and I haven't seen
true HID conversions (which require special wiring setups and cost hundreds
of dollars) for the DeLorean. Here is info on why the fit anything HID
"conversions" aren't all that great:
http://lighting.mbz.org/tech/info/HID/conversion/
Hella as well as a few other companies make replacement bulbs that are
actually housings for H4 style bulbs. This means you can use any H4 (or
equiv.) bulb and still have the stock rectangular light housing. The better
ones like Hella also have a better defined lighting pattern than the sealed
beam bulbs that the DeLorean uses as it's stock bulb.
I've never bought from this supplier, but they have the Hella headlamp
conversions for H4 bulbs:
http://www.catalog.com/susq/hella/headlamp.htm
They also list Xenon and HIP type H4 bulbs for these:
http://www.catalog.com/susq/hella/bulbs.htm
I'd recommend the H4 style conversion and go with a decent bulb rather than
messing with HID. Much less expensive. More reliable than a HID conversion.
And probably better lighting than a fit anything conversion.
Hope this helps!
Mark N
VIN 6820
At 06:04 PM 5/5/00 -0000, Robert Rooney wrote:
<snip>
> So my question is this: Is
>there a way to safely remove the vaccum from within the sealed beams,
>cut the back ends, and remove the filaments to directly convert the
>lights? If this could be done, would the electrical system be
>afected? I think the current headlights are 45/65 watts, but I've
>also seen some HID's rated @ 85/110. Ideas, cautions?
>
>-Robert
>vin 6585
>Build: 3 NOV 1981
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 13
Date: Fri, 5 May 2000 19:14:59 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dee Moats <Dee-Moats@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Historic Blunders
Think about it, to bend metal even as thin as a fender takes quite a bit of
force. Follow up reasoning says that whatever is used must be stronger than
the metal of the fender. The die is usually made out of thicker metal
machined in the shape of the fender. They aren't easy to make because there
are a lot of measurements to take and to pass on to the die. Both the die
maker and the machinist are highly paid craftsmen. I rather doubt that the
original dies were destroyed but we certainly aren't getting much further
with this discussion. Dee Moats Vin #004434
On Fri, 5 May 2000 02:56:04 EDT, dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
> In a message dated 5/4/00 8:31:03 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> heskin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
>
> << I'm sure I'm missing something here..
>
> Assuming the British Gov't destroyed the original dies used to
> stamp the body panels, why can't some enterprising person take an
> existing LF fender (for example), make a new die from that, and get a
> few hundred fenders produced? Are the starup costs just too great?
> Are there legal issues with copying the design? Obviously, there is
> enough demand. Has this been tried before?
> >>
>
> One thing I was wondering. I thought the only items actually processed
at
> the factory were the fiberglass underbodies and that items such as the
> stainless steel panels were made elsewhere. If this is the case how did
the
> British Government get the dies for the body panels?
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
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