Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 22 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. adhesives
From: tmasterlc@xxxxxxx
2. DeLorean CARS for sale
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: Door Keys
From: "Kevin Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. RE: Door Keys
From: "Michael C. Babb, MCSE, MCT, MCP-I, CNA" <michael@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: Door Keys
From: "Steve Rubano" <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: Sensitive Torsion Bars?
From: iznodmad@xxxxxxx
7. Re: Sensitive Torsion Bars?
From: Jack Janney <fastride@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Fuses
From: "jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx " <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
9. WINDOW SWITCH ARROW STENCILS - All the Info
From: "mike/russ" <mike@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Need water pump info
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
11. Re: adhesives
From: "jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx " <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
12. Re: Need water pump info
From: "Dave Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: Fuses
From: "Jim Reeve" <ultra@xxxxxxx>
14. Re: Need water pump info
From: "Erik Geerdink" <delorean502@xxxxxxxxxx>
15. Re: Remark made in Car and Driver
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
16. Re: Gray door hangers
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
17. Re: Re: Fuses
From: CIAsleeper22@xxxxxxx
18. Re: Fuses
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
19. Re: Door Keys
From: James Espey <james@xxxxxxxxxx>
20. Stainless Repair
From: Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
21. Stiff brake pedal
From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx
22. Re: adhesives
From: Peter Lucas <lucas@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2000 01:10:55 -0000
From: tmasterlc@xxxxxxx
Subject: adhesives
Our D has spot mirrors from the previous owner which need to be
removed. Anyone had any experience removing these without doing
damage to the OEM mirrors?
What kind of adhesive should be used to attach the info sticker on
the drivers side sun visor? Would I be correct in assuming the
sticker goes on the top side of the visor.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2000 19:59:18 -0600
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DeLorean CARS for sale
Be sure to check the DMC for sale section of the DMCNEWS.COM web page. At
the moment there are 50 cars listed. I'm about to clean up some of the old
listings, so there may be some motivated sellers. Prices range from 8000 to
35,000, and everywhere in between. Looks like some nice cars listed all
over the country (and one in Australia). 'Tis the season!
http://www.dmcnews.com/BuyNSell/dmcforsale.html
Dave Swingle
DMCNews Ad-guy in my spare time.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2000 20:11:12 -0600
From: "Kevin Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Door Keys
I've got a key machine, but no blanks. I've been thinking about ordering
blanks, though I'm not sure how many I could cut for people (I'm in
Houston).
Q. My car has a single key for ignition and doors. When did the cars go to
single key?
I would happily compile key blank cross-references if anyone would forward
to me personally their year/month and key blank code.
----- Original Message -----
From: "W.D.SEARLS, JR." <Buckeye99@xxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, November 28, 2000 4:59 PM
Subject: [DML] Door Keys
> I am in need of door key blanks for my mid-year 81 Delorean. One of the
> former owners lost them so I now can't take my Delorean anywhere unless I
> risk someone getting into it. If anyone knows what the key blank number is
> that will be helpful. Also anyone who has just un-cut door keys that will
be
> helpful too.
>
> Joel
>
> #3121
>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2000 23:23:18 -0500
From: "Michael C. Babb, MCSE, MCT, MCP-I, CNA" <michael@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Door Keys
Joel,
I had the same problem when I got my car. It is possible that the dor key
code is written under the drivers side headliner. If you are careful you
can get the headliner off of the door and look. It should look something
like WR 3128.
If it is there, call James Espey at DeLorean Motor Company (1-800-USA-DMC1)
or e-mail him at james@xxxxxxxxxx and he may have them in stock.
I got one and it works perfectly.
Hope this helps.
Michael Babb
-----Original Message-----
From: W.D.SEARLS, JR. [mailto:Buckeye99@xxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Tuesday, November 28, 2000 5:59 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Door Keys
I am in need of door key blanks for my mid-year 81 Delorean. One of the
former owners lost them so I now can't take my Delorean anywhere unless I
risk someone getting into it. If anyone knows what the key blank number is
that will be helpful. Also anyone who has just un-cut door keys that will be
helpful too.
Joel
#3121
Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2000 04:54:15 -0000
From: "Steve Rubano" <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Door Keys
Joel,
Check with James at DMC Houston. He said that he had a bunch of pr-
cut door keys for 81 D's with the two key system. Best part is they
are the lighted ones. Contact him for instructions on how to
determine if he has a set of pre-cut door keys for your car.
Steve
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "W.D.SEARLS, JR." <Buckeye99@xxxx> wrote:
> I am in need of door key blanks for my mid-year 81 Delorean. One of
the
> former owners lost them so I now can't take my Delorean anywhere
unless I
> risk someone getting into it. If anyone knows what the key blank
number is
> that will be helpful. Also anyone who has just un-cut door keys
that will be
> helpful too.
>
> Joel
>
> #3121
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2000 21:42:40 EST
From: iznodmad@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Sensitive Torsion Bars?
It is possible to have the doors open fully regardless of the temperature, as
long as the temps are not too extreme. On my D, the coldest temperature I
have had it out in was about 15-20 F. The doors opened fully to the highest
point without any help on my part. However, I am very careful with them in
the summer with temps approaching 100 F. The door opens what I would call
quickly at high temps and I keep it from opening too quickly so as to not
damage or bend the door hinges. If I were in your shoes, and keeping in mind
the average temps in Norway, is to have the torsion bars adjusted on a day
that is of average temperature for your climate. With this in mind, they
should open fully without help most everyday of the year. It is totally up
to you. Whatever you decide, best of luck to you.
Regards,
Darren Decker
#5000
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2000 19:57:15 -0700
From: Jack Janney <fastride@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Sensitive Torsion Bars?
Stian,
I just brought a Delorean home to Colorado from Florida. In Florida
(ave. temp 75) the doors worked fine. When I got the Delorean to Colorado
(ave temp 30) they started drooping. New struts solved the problem. The
old struts were marginal. The gas in the struts compresses with cold
temperatrures and doesn't offer as much lift. It gets worse over time
because some gas leaks past the seals, gradualy dropping the pressure inside
the strut.
After listening to Ed B. in Las Vegas, it convinced me that I don't want to
mess with the torsion bars myself, I'll send it to someone who knows what
they are doing. If it's really cold in Norway, there's probably not much
you can do even with new replacement Delorean struts, maybe PJ Grady or one
of the other vendors can point you to a more robust strut.
Jack Janney
82 #10901
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stian Birkeland" <dmc_norway@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, November 28, 2000 11:51 AM
Subject: [DML] Sensitive Torsion Bars?
> Hello,
> Could someone please explain to me the weird functions of the torsion
bars?
> I've noticed that the doors drop in cold weather and dont drop very much
in
> warm weather.
>
> Is it possible to compensate in any way for the different door behaviour
due
> to temperature? Ive heard that you shouldnt overadjust the torsion bars...
>
> I have new gas struts yet I would like the doors to raise fully open
> regardless of cold or warm temperature. Is this possible?
>
> Best wishes from COLD Norway,
> Stian Birkeland
>
> VIN #06759
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
_________
> Get more from the Web. FREE MSN Explorer download :
http://explorer.msn.com
>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2000 03:11:31 -0000
From: "jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx " <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Fuses
Having just done some electrical work on several "old" cars I have
noticed something worth mentioning. I found that many of the fuses
were not in the correct places or were just the wrong size. Sometimes
all that is required is to just move them into the correct positions
but I have also seen all replaced without regard to the correct
values. In some cases the fuses are too small but in most they were
too big. DMC Joe has a fuse layout or you can look in the owner's
manual or workshop manual. I think it would be a very cheap form of
insurance to make sure that the proper size fuse is in the proper
position. It would also be a good idea to keep an assortment so you
can always replace a blown fuse with one that is correct. While you
are in the fuse area behind the passanger seat make sure that the
blower fan and cooling fan circuit breakers have been replaced with
the correct bigger ones and that all of the wires do not look
overheated. If you still have the jumper wire for the cooling fan
relay carefully examine it for signs of overheating. There have been
cases of electrical fires so it is an area of concern.Many people
have
had their hands in the cars over the years and sometimes they didn't
always know what they were doing. If you aren't an origional owner
(not many of us are) then you don't know who did what.This is an
excellent winter project and you don't have to be a mechanic to check
this area.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2000 00:11:07 -0500
From: "mike/russ" <mike@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: WINDOW SWITCH ARROW STENCILS - All the Info
I didn't want to shamelessly plug the stencil kits....but I've had more than
6 inquiries in 2 days so I thought I'd repeat the info.
If you're suffering from "arrowless" window switches then take a look at
www.mydelorean.com for a really easy way to repaint them.
The stencils are created from adhesive vinyl which when applied to the top
of your arrowless switch act as a paint mask. You
simply spray white paint on top of the switch, peel the sticker off and the
paint (in the shape of your original arrow) remains......Neat huh?
Price for the kits are $11 (each kit will repaint 2 switches) and INCLUDES
shipping (first
class postage) anywhere in the world. There's a photo instruction sheet
included with the stencils which takes you step by step through the process.
Prices are in US Dollars.
Visit the "Gift Garage" at www.mydelorean.com for complete details and a
photo of what they look like.
Any other questions feel free to email me privately.
Thanks,
mike@xxxxxxxxxxxx
VIN#17089
Windsor, Ontario
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2000 02:02:45 -0500
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Need water pump info
I want to replace the water pump on my D and am curious to know which is the
best way to go. It seems to be a choice between one that has a pressed-on
pulley similar to the original vs. getting a Volvo pump that uses a bolt-on
pulley.
Apparently there are advantages/disadvantages both ways.
The problem with the bolt-on variety is that I don't know of any vendors who
sell the pulley. Also, I've heard that there have been problems with some
custom made pulleys not lining up correctly. But I like the idea of the
bolt-on variety because if I ever had to replace it in a pinch, I could
probably get a Volvo pump easier than I could get something Delorean
specific.
If someone makes a custom pulley that is billet aluminum, it would be cool
to get matching ones for the rest of the car. Does anyone know any sources?
If you have experiences which are appropriate to share on the DML then do
so, otherwise e-mail me privately.
Walt Tampa, FL
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2000 16:12:22 -0000
From: "jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx " <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: adhesives
I would leave the spot mirrors on. Anything you can do to improve the
visibility on the Delorean is a plus. If you still want to remove
them
then try a heat gun or hairdryer to get it warm and then carefully
pry
it off. Use alcohol to remove any residue left on the glass. For the
starting sticker on the visor there is no good glue to use but I used
rubber cement and if you don't touch it it seems okay. You are
correct
that it goes on the "top" side or the side against the headliner so
the glue isn't so important.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, tmasterlc@xxxx wrote:
> Our D has spot mirrors from the previous owner which need to be
> removed. Anyone had any experience removing these without doing
> damage to the OEM mirrors?
>
> What kind of adhesive should be used to attach the info sticker on
> the drivers side sun visor? Would I be correct in assuming the
> sticker goes on the top side of the visor.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2000 16:17:45 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Need water pump info
Instructions on re-using the original pulley at:
http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/waterpumpDMC.html
Other than it being somewhat easier to do, I see no huge advantage to
the bolt-on one. I don't think you'll ever do a water pump on the
side of the road.
Dave
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "Walter" <Whalt@xxxx> wrote:
> I want to replace the water pump on my D and am curious to know
which is the
> best way to go. It seems to be a choice between one that has a
pressed-on
> pulley similar to the original vs. getting a Volvo pump that uses a
bolt-on
> pulley.
>
> Apparently there are advantages/disadvantages both ways.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2000 16:41:01 -0000
From: "Jim Reeve" <ultra@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Fuses
This leaves me with a curious question. I know that fuse #7 (20amp)
has a tendency to melt in a lot of cars. I even had the unfortunate
experience of rideing in a D when it's #7 did the same thing.
However, the previous owner of my D replaced the 20amp fuse in #7
with a 10amp. I have felt this fuse after driving and it was warm,
but not hot. So far I have driven the car for 3 months about about
4000 miles without a problem. The car is in storage now, but should
I replace the #7 with a 20amp or leave it at the 10amp? I am just
thinking I could prevent a melt and just let it blow if the power
flow gets too high. What do you think?
Jim Reeve
-6960
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2000 16:44:11 -0000
From: "Erik Geerdink" <delorean502@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Need water pump info
I bought the Waterpump kit from PJ Grady last March when my car was
bleeding green. I ordered it with the pulley already on so it made
life easier for me. It was nice knowing that everything was lined up
the correct way and that all the parts I had in front of me were for
the Delorean. It cost a little more, but I didn't have any problems
and I didn't have to buy any extra parts.
Erik Geerdink
ps
I have my old waterpump if anyone wants it. It still has the pulley
on it.
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "Walter" <Whalt@xxxx> wrote:
> I want to replace the water pump on my D and am curious to know
which is the
> best way to go. It seems to be a choice between one that has a
pressed-on
> pulley similar to the original vs. getting a Volvo pump that uses a
bolt-on
> pulley.
>
> Apparently there are advantages/disadvantages both ways.
>
> The problem with the bolt-on variety is that I don't know of any
vendors who
> sell the pulley. Also, I've heard that there have been problems
with some
> custom made pulleys not lining up correctly. But I like the idea
of the
> bolt-on variety because if I ever had to replace it in a pinch, I
could
> probably get a Volvo pump easier than I could get something Delorean
> specific.
>
> If someone makes a custom pulley that is billet aluminum, it would
be cool
> to get matching ones for the rest of the car. Does anyone know any
sources?
>
> If you have experiences which are appropriate to share on the DML
then do
> so, otherwise e-mail me privately.
>
> Walt Tampa, FL
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2000 11:49:50 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Remark made in Car and Driver
Matt,
You are correct, minor dents are easily repairable by a stainless repair
specialist.
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: Matthew Spittle <mds328@xxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, November 28, 2000 10:58 AM
Subject: [DML] Remark made in Car and Driver
> If any of you remember the segment on the DeLorean on TNN's Car & Driver
you
> may recall the part where the host says "Repairing a dent required a whole
> new section." Is this claim valid? I thought dents and the like were
> relatively easy to remove from a DeLorean provided the person is familiar
> with working with stainless steel? Please inform.
>
> Matt
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2000 12:50:48 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Gray door hangers
Dick,
We have new gray pull straps in stock, contact us directly for a price
quote.
"We're here to help you"
Seasons Greetings!
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: <dickross@xxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, November 28, 2000 3:29 PM
Subject: [DML] Gray door hangers
> Does anyone have an extra set of gray door hangers for sale? I had
> black ones and someone on the list (Mike Pack) said he had gray ones and
> would trade. I sent him the black ones but he never sent me the gray
> ones. So we need to beware when trading items. Anyhow, I need good
> gray ones now. Any help?
> Dick Ross
> Vin 3000
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2000 14:33:41 EST
From: CIAsleeper22@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: Fuses
I had the same problem when I first got my DeLorean. Steve Wynne suggested
that I just replace the entire fuse with an in-line fuse from a hardware
store. (The connection had basically melted away from the melting fuse) I
went to Sears, got the proper parts for the right amperage, and I solved a
major problem in my car for less than a dollar, and 10 mins worth of hard
work.
Justin
vin5172
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2000 15:35:59 -0500
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Fuses
Jim,
It's not the fuse itself that is the source of the heat so much as it is the
poor connection to the fuse. If you want to reduce your chances of a
melt-down, use a heavier duty style of fuse & fuse holder with the original
20 amp rating.
The Delorean engineers thought they could get away with using a fuse &
holder rated at 20 amps that was meant for a low duty cycle and instead they
used it for a high or even continuous duty cycle situation (as in the case
with the headlight high beams which causes another melted spot on the fuse
block.) Either you need to take apart and clean the contacts periodically
and hope it doesn't melt down despite your efforts or else replace it with a
reasonable design that does not require this sort of maintenance.
Walt Tampa, FL
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 19
Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2000 15:43:29 -0500
From: James Espey <james@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Door Keys
VIN's prior to 4200 came from the factory with a 2-key system. One
key for the door, a different one for the ignition. >From 4201
forward, the same key was for both the door and ignition.
As Mike Babb mentioned, we've got a couple hundred pre-cut door keys
for the early cars in Houston, organized by key cutting code. The bad
part is there is only a very small corresponding list of VINs to tell
which key goes with each car. The key code was usually written in
magic marker under the headliner of the drivers door, something like
WR5010 or similar.
We are having the lighted head style key blanks remade to go along
with the existing reproduction molded head key blanks we already sell.
James Espey
DeLorean Motor Company
Houston, Texas
281/568-9573
800/USA-DMC1
http://www.delorean.com
>Q. My car has a single key for ignition and doors. When did the cars go to
>single key?
>
>I would happily compile key blank cross-references if anyone would forward
>to me personally their year/month and key blank code.
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 20
Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2000 17:15:27 -0500
From: Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Stainless Repair
Joe,
Any chance you could recommend a good stainless repair specialist,
or at
least a category of professionals to explore? Other than a DeLorean
specific
specialist, I can't seem to find anyone in my area who will even come
within ten
yards of the car.
Thanks in advance,
Josh
VIN 5102
VIN 15964
DMC Joe wrote:
> Matt,
>
> You are correct, minor dents are easily repairable by a stainless
repair
> specialist.
>
> "We're here to help you"
>
> DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
> Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 21
Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2000 19:31:43 EST
From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx
Subject: Stiff brake pedal
Hello List,
When I drive my car the brake pedal does not go down as far as it it
should after about 5 minutes of driving. (moves only about an inch to come to
a complete stop.) Then at the next stop it will be fine again and move like
it should, then the problem might come back a little bit later on the drive.
Any ideas on what this could be? The brake fluid is full and looks fairly
clean. Is it safe to drive the car this way?
also, is it legal to drive a car without a front fender?
Thanks in advance!
David
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 22
Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2000 20:03:27 -0500
From: Peter Lucas <lucas@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: adhesives
At 1:10 AM +0000 11/29/00, tmasterlc@xxxxxxx wrote:
>
>
>What kind of adhesive should be used to attach the info sticker on
>the drivers side sun visor?
I have had excellent results using aerosol headliner adhesive
(available at Pep Boys). Just spray some on the back of the sticker,
let it dry a bit, and apply carefully.
--Pete Lucas
VIN #06703
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Back to the Home of PROJECT VIXEN