dmcnews-digest V3 #355
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dmcnews-digest V3 #355



Title: dmcnews-digest V3 #355

dmcnews-digest         Monday, April 20 1998         Volume 03 : Number 355



       In this issue:
        DML: Alarm drains battery
        DML: Measurement Check.
        Re: DML: PRV6 possibilities
        Re: DML: PRV6 possibilities
        DML: Stainless Steel Illusion - 2nd Edition
        RE: DML: K & N Filters
        Re: DML: PRV6 possibilities
        DML: Road & Track trivia contest
        DML: fuel pump
        DML: CAT Removal
        Re: DML: Gold DeLorean in Vegas
        DML: PA event
        Re: DML: Re: Windows
        DML: DeLorean Prototypes
        DML: Louisianna + Alabamma meeting
        Re: DML: PRV6 possibilities
        DML: PRV Cat Removed?
        DML: K@N Filters #
        Re: DML: PRV6 possibilities
        DML: Cincinnati Car Show
        DML: National Geographic Article
        DML: PRV V6 Power Play
        Re: DML: Alarm drains battery
        DML: Potential owner seeks advice on D purchase
        DML: K@N Filters - the part number is here!
        DML: Bleeding
        DML: DMC in Las Vegas & Nevada. EPA Emissions Loopholes
        DML: My OEM and ultimate Delorean
        DML: Biloxi Meeting
        DML: Fwd: Alternator belts
        DML: Owners in the Twin Cities Area, MN
        Re:  DML: Owners in the Twin Cities Area, MN
        RE: DML: PRV6 possibilities
        DML: Re: Windows (Mercedes 300SL Gullwing)
        DML: It's on the way
        DML: Re: PRV6 possibilities
        Re: DML: PRV Cat Removed?
        Re: DML: PRV6 possibilities
        Re: DML: DMC in Las Vegas & Nevada. EPA Emissions Loopholes

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 17:59:18 -0400
From: Sean Mullally <mullally@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Alarm drains battery

I installed an alarm in my D last summer, and it has been the biggest
headache. I can't let the car sit for more than a few days before the
battery is to drained to start the engine. Is this normal for a car
alarm? I had the store install it for me, so I'm not familiar with the
wiring. How easy is it to disconenct a car alarm? I'd rather disable
it that constantly have to recharge my battery!

- -sean
vin#3868

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 18:03:31 -0400
From: Marc A Levy <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Measurement Check.

I am looking for some verification to measurements I have taken of the
storage space behind the seats.

(Anyone have the mechanical drawings for the car?!)

I have measured the following:

Vertical hight from bottom to top (under net clips): 10 Inches
Semi-horizontal length of base from back to front lip: 15 Inches
Angle between vertical and horizontal: 104deg

The most difficult measurement is the angle, and that is the one I
really need verified.  I do not have the proper tools to do this, so I
folded a peice of paper to fit in to the area, and measured it with a
protractor. Not real reliable!


Please e-mail me directly, cause I doubt there is anyone who is
interested in this data, but if you are, you can also e-mail me and I
will forward the results.

Thanks,
Marc

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 23:04:32 +0100
From: The DMC-12 <msg101@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: PRV6 possibilities

To add to what Aaron has written below (and what he has done is EXACTLY
what
I've seen - a bit of pipe in the place of the Catalytic converter), and
from a
hazy memory of a conversation I had last year, the piping of the exhaust
in a
DeLorean is a little odd (presumably to pipe in the cat - it was one of
the
first production cars to incorporate one, wasn't it?): as you stand over
the
back of the car, the exhaust comes out towards you, then gets piped right
round
the right side of the engine, round the back and down the left side,
through
the cat and into the silencer (muffler). James, please correct me if I'm
wrong,
but putting headers in removes this piping, allowing the exhaust gasses
to come
off the engine and strait into the silencer. Even without the cat, this
still
reduces the effort the engine has to make to "blow" the exhaust out.

On the "CAT" abbreviation; when catalytic converters started appearing
over
here, a number of manufacturers had slogans along the lines of "me and my
CAT"
- - I think some bumper stickers might have been produced for eco-friendly
people
who had their cars converted.

Martin

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 23:11:44 +0100
From: DeLorean UK <msg101@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: PRV6 possibilities

Nikki Schumann wrote:

>I find a 40 bhp gain just by removing the cat on the optimistic side too.

The car in question was officially measured for BHP.


> However,  before the company closed down, developments were underway for a
> Euro spec DMC 12 and a few cars were produced without it. I have read
> somewhere that these cars were putting out some 155 bhp = 25 bhp gain.
>

They DID pipe out the Cat, but did not use headers. They also had a lower
final drive ratio (and 140mph speedos :-)

> ! New injection mappings were programmed in a hurry and high octane
> unleaded
> fuel availability was low.

Did you know, that the "Super Unleaded" petrol's chemical additions to
make it
"super" are more harmful to the environment than the lead in leaded
petrol?
(petrol=gasoline, sorry:-)

Martin

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Apr 98 16:00:21 -0700
From: James Espey <espey@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Stainless Steel Illusion - 2nd Edition

Response to my inquiry as to who would be interested in *buying* a copy
of one or both of these books was very positive. As of this morning, over
90 people have responded, wanting to buy one or more copies of each, some
even offered to pay in advance.

A decision will be made in the next few weeks whether or not this
proceeds. I'll keep everyone posted.

James Espey
Moderator, DeLorean Mailing List

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 18 Apr 1998 01:00:15 -0700
From: "lseiler@xxxxxxxxxxxx" <lseiler@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: DML: K & N Filters

At 10:56 AM 4/17/98 -0400, you wrote:
 
 
>Hey Lee, I with you on this one. My understanding from reading the
>threads is that K&N are the best .
>This kinda baffles me since air filters are just folded paper !
>
reply:

        I looked closely at three brands and apart from the color of the molded
gasket I see no material difference I doubt that there is any, and given
that I change mine every 2K miles I just don't see a reason for one brand
over any other? I sure would like to hear the reason why K&B should
duplicate the very common item.


Lee Seiler
81DMC-12

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 18 Apr 1998 11:33:15 +0100
From: "Nikki Schumann" <Nikki.Schumann@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: PRV6 possibilities

More thoughts on CAT removal and power gain.

Martin wrote:
>The car in question was officially measured for BHP.


Previously Nikki Schumann wrote:
>>I find a 40 bhp gain just by removing the cat on the optimistic side too.



Martin, in your first posting you wrote that remoing the CAT *apparently*
boosted power to 170 bhp. You did not mention that the power had been
officially measured. However I'm still skeptical about power gain through
exhaust changes. I can believe (only just though) that 170 bhp can be
obtained if header modifications are applied also. Nevertheless, this is
still a BIG increase in power (30%) for a normally aspirated engine.

Martin's original posting:
<snip>
>One thing I know increases the HP of the
>DeLorean's PRV-6 is removing the catalytic converter and fitting headers.
>*apparently* this boosts the HP to 170.
<snip>

Nikki Schumann

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 18 Apr 1998 10:12:14 EDT
From: Dragnfly44 <Dragnfly44@xxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Road & Track trivia contest

Hello, all --

Just bought the May '98 issue of Road & Track;
on page 138 there's a trivia contest about cars
in the movies.  Question #18 says:  "In the 1985
movie 'Back To The Future,' what component of
the DeLorean made time travel possible, and
required 'one-point-twenty-one jigawatts' of
electricity?"

I know we'll all have to think long and hard about
that one... <g>

Brian Henderlong
DOA #4977
VIN #not yet...

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 18 Apr 1998 11:13:43 PDT
From: "Jim Plamondon" <saab82@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: fuel pump

Hi this Jim in Iowa.

I need to put in a new fuel pump in my 81'' (#1746).  Can I get a
replacement  fuel pump with out spending $159.95 at DeLorean part
dealer.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 18 Apr 1998 18:38:39 -0500
From: Jordan Gary <jordang@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: CAT Removal

To remove your CAT is easier than you are hearing above.  I recently
removed
mine.  It only took a little work to unbolt it.  I took my muffler partly
lose
to get it off and removed the bolts which hold it to the manifold.  Then
I took
a long pry bar, like one uses to pry out nails, and hammered it through
the
honeycomb.  The honeycomb is metal plated ceramic and breaks easily. 
Mine was
already partly melted and so was adding more obstruction to the air flow.
 I
broke and poured out about 1/2 of the inside.  One could easily break out
all of
it.  Then you just add back the CAT to the car.  It now looks the same
but no
longer obstructs the air flow.

About High Octane gas.  It produces no more energy.  They take regular
gas and
add a burning inhibitor.  They do this because a high compression engine
can
compress the gas so much that it ignites itself before the spark plug
fires.
This is called PING or Knocking.  This happens when the gas pre ignites
before
the piston gets close enough to the top dead center.  Pinging then tries
to push
the piston backwards, reducing horsepower, and causing a knocking sound. 
So
with higher octane gas they add things which cause the gas to need to get
to a
higher temperature before it burns.  Using high octane gas in a low
compression
engine then reduces its horsepower.  Our cars have a medium compression
ratio
and the manual says that it needs 91 octane gas.    Sincerely,   Jordan
Gary

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 18 Apr 1998 23:48:26 -0700
From: "Stephen Jaeger" <sjaeger01@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Gold DeLorean in Vegas

Just got back from LV today and yes they still have NO Deloreans. Any
way the IP car museum is still worth a visit. Especially when you can
get a free ticket from the IP employee giving them out in front of
the casino on the ' Strip'.

Steve

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 21:04:27 -0400
From: "DOUG T VENNER" <DMC12@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: PA event

Anyone got info on the Door Adj. day in PA the end of the month
How to get there, what time, etc.
Thanx
Doug Venner

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Apr 1998 13:06:28 EDT
From: Gullwing D <GullwingD@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Re: Windows

where is the web site that has and talks about the 1998 DeLorean?

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 18:27:24 -0700
From: Nathan Gess <delorean12@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: DeLorean Prototypes

DML,
        I was wondering if anyone on the DML knows, or knows where I can find
out how many prototypes were made.  This does not include the crash cars
or the 'black cars' used to train the assembly line.  Where are they
now?
Sender: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Precedence: list
Reply-To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxx

        Also, I hate to look like a novice, but having never actually seen a
DeLorean in person, I have to ask.  Where is the VIN number located?  I
think it's on the inside door, but I'm not sure.
        Thanks in advance!

Nathan Gess
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Downs/7770/

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 18 Apr 1998 00:17:31 -0500
From: steve r <stephenr@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Louisianna + Alabamma meeting

  I am looking forward to having the Louisiana meeting.  It looks like
we may not be having it in LaPlace after all.  I have located five
owners in the New Orleans Area.  I am not an owner but I plan on being
one in a few years.
    It looks like we will be meeting in Biloxi on May 9, 1998.  We will
be meeting out there so we will be able to meet up with three owners
that live in Alabama.  We should be able to expect anywhere from 5-7
DeLoreans at this meeting.
    Please stay tuned to the DML for more details as we get closer to
the date.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 17:14:48 -0800
From: "tomcio" <tomcio@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: PRV6 possibilities

Hi,
I don't think it's a good idea to remove the cat. When you remove it,
the O2 sensor doesn't work anymore as it suppose to. Therefore you
are burning more gas. The computer is not getting right information
thus not supplying right amount of fuel to the engine. That messes up
the whole idea of computer control. Besides, you are braking the law.
Think about it, do you really need this "power". It's not gonna be
much. Even it is 15HP, I don't think you can feel it. It's only about
12% increase in power. I don't think it's worth it, but it's up to
you to decide.
Tom
vin 6298

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 07:31:48 -0500
From: Bryan Pearce <bryan@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: PRV Cat Removed?

With all the posting about removing the catalytic converter, has anyone
on the list done this?  Was the increase in performance noticeable?  In
other words, do you get enough of a performance gain to make removing and
reinstalling the catalytic converter worth it?  Also, does removing the
cat. change the sound of the exhaust?

Finally, does anyone know how much of a fine to expect if the converter
is removed?



Bryan Pearce
DeLorean Midwest Connection
VIN #11529 - The only DMC-12
with a Stainless Steel Frame

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 19:24:58 EDT
From: Gullwing99 <Gullwing99@xxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: K@N Filters #

  Fellow D lovers,
 Don't fret,,,I had this letter on my computer and ready to send when a
friend
of mine passed away,,,point being,,,this weekend I'll look up the Filter
number for all that is interested and try and post it either Sunday or
Monday
at the latest,,,,also I ordered it through Summit
Racing,1-800-230-3030,,,( no
I don't work for them or hold ties to them, LOL ).,,,but I've delt with
them
for a long time and they have fast friendly service and of course good
prices....If you'd order it through K@N themselves it'd cost about 10
bucks
more ( shrugging my shoulders ). If memory serves me correctly it was
around
45 bucks with shipping and all...again take care and have a nice weekend!!

J.B.Vincent

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Apr 1998 22:14:57 -0500
From: "Thomas Bohmier" <bohmier@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: PRV6 possibilities

In my opinion, there are several alternatives for improving performance.

You can remove the catalytic converter and add headers. However, your
noise
level
will increase and it will sound kinf of throaty.

You can also have the engine "blue printed" at a machine shop, which
entail
re-building most
of the engine or the top portion of the heads, valves and so forth. This
can supposedly increase
the horsepower to the 200 range, depending on the amount of effort put in
to the project.

Thomas Bohmier

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 20:38:49 EDT
From: KKoncelik <KKoncelik@xxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Cincinnati Car Show

Just got off the phone with some folks in the S.E. Delorean club and they
had
heard that the event had sold out. 
This is NOT  true.  There is plenty of room for anyone wanting to come
and I
have added space for both the Friday and Saturday events to accommodate
everyone so there is no problem.  I am running out of rooms at the Comfort
Suite but have the Hampton Inn as an alternative and it is right down the
street within walking distance so no problem there now.  The Hampton
direct
number is 606-581-7800.  Cost is $89.00 per night plus tax. 

Again thanks for the great response and I hope to see all of you there

I've been gone for a few weeks but we have recently had cars registered
from
Ohio, Illinoise, Michigan, Virginia, Georgia, New Jersey and Wisconson. 
Again
thanks

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Apr 1998 13:44:31 -0700
From: Hank Breer <hbreer@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: National Geographic Article

Josh Haldeman wrote:

> snip
>     I'd also like to submit my web-site to you folks for approval.
> snip

Josh,

I, for one, completely disaprove.  You have lifted images owned by others
and incorporated them into your site without first obtaining permission
from
the owners (and copyright holders) of those images.  Though I do not see
any
images from our site,
http://www.delorean-owners.org I do see a couple from Road & Track which I
am sure are copyrighted.

Your statement "I lost track of which pictures belonged to who, so if you
see your car there, and you don't want it there, just e-mail me ..." does
nothing to absolve you of outright plagerism.  It is not the duty of the
owner of the image to find your site and request that you remove it.  It
is
your responsibility to contact the image owner and obtain permission
before
you post.

You have also included images of a couple of posters, lifted from sites
trying to make money selling them.  (One is even from the DML's
moderator).
This completely subverts the reason these images were created and denies
the
image owner the possible revenue from their work.

Apparently ETHICS 101 is not a course stressed by Ohio State University.

Hank Breer

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 19:54:05 -0400 (Eastern Daylight Time)
From: Jim Lill <jpl@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: PRV V6 Power Play

It's great to see that you guys have found my v6.html listing. I put a lot
of work into that, so good to see it's getting use. I put it together for
a Peugeot project I'm working on. Here's a list of some of the differences
between a "D" motor and the 155/170HP P & V later versions.

Basically, the Peugeot ZN3J and Volvo B280F motors are identical. They
both have 2849cc, along with even-fire and right-bank camshaft
counterbalancing. The earlier Volvo B27/28 motors were the ones with the
cam oiling problems. They both also have Bosch LH-Jetronic fuel
injection. 
The 145-155 HP difference between them has to due mostly with intake and
exhaust manifold variations and a little of how they rate them.  The 170
is without a cat and different ECU and ignition timing.  A guy in Sweden
once informed me that 200 HP was easy from a B280F with low restriction
exhaust and instake, different camshaft, no cat and different ECU. This
with total reliability. I've lost contact with him however.

Another path to consider is the 2975cc motor from the Dodge Monaco/Eagle
Premier. I'm not sure if this has a balancer or not. It has junk for EFI
though.  Early Datsun 300Z EFI was a Bosch variant. You should be able
to get a 2975cc motor from a "domestic" beater sedan for $600-800 and with
something different for the EFI and header exhaust, see 165-175 HP.


Good Luck,

- -Jim

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Apr 1998 23:25:04 -0700
From: cliff wallace <wlsms@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Alarm drains battery

Sean Mullally wrote:
>
> I installed an alarm in my D last summer, and it has been the biggest
> headache. I can't let the car sit for more than a few days before the
> battery is to drained to start the engine. Is this normal for a car
> alarm? I had the store install it for me, so I'm not familiar with the
> wiring. How easy is it to disconenct a car alarm? I'd rather disable
> it that constantly have to recharge my battery!
>
> -sean
> vin#3868

Does your car alarm go off every day?  Well, even if it did, it doesn't
pull enough amps from your battery to make a difference in it's proper
performance.  Most car alarms are hard-wired to the battery.  You can
disconnect it from there or disconnect the ground wire (black in most
cases) from the alarm's horn/siren.  Most car alarms have a bundle of
wires leading from the horn and a short ground wire that connects
close-by. 
The DeLorean has a start inhibit relay, so does your car alarm (if
installed).  Both relays could be causing a conflict because most alarms
have a 12vdc wire that connects to the ignition to operate the override
switch in case your remote fails.  Try disconnecting the alarm for now
and see if your problem persists.

- ----------------- End Forwarded Message -----------------

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Apr 1998 11:06:16 -0700
From: "Walter Jann" <jannw@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Potential owner seeks advice on D purchase

I, like many of you have wanted a D since I was a child.  I never =
considered them until I found this site and newslist and realised the =
wealth on knowledge and experience on what I considered a "too hard to =
buy, service and support"  vehicle.  As a result I am considering a =
purchase of the following vehicle and would greatly appreciate any =
advice.  The car is a DMC-12 Auto, Black Int, Unpainted with 23k miles, =
VIN#3634.  The exterior and interior appears to be in good to excellent =
condition ( No visible damage, but I am no mechanic or a DMC expert ).  =
It has the classic door drooping problem which I believe can be easily =
repaired by myself.  It seemed to start and run fine when I test drove =
it, except for the following issues.  The oil pressure seem to fluctuate =
wildly from 50 to 100% ( I can't remember the range ) and it seems to =
have very tight steering ( that could be caused by the fact I can't =
remember the last time I drove manually steered car ).  When I got back =
to the dealer I let it idle since I have read about overheating =
problems.  It did overheat and the dealer ( who said he had sold over 30 =
D's ) said he would fix the heating problem which he felt was caused by =
a blown fan fuse or relay.  The voltmeter only read 10volts and he said =
he would look at that also.  The dealer ( located in sothern OH ) is =
asking $15,000 delivered. =20

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Apr 1998 18:15:08 EDT
From: Gullwing99 <Gullwing99@xxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: K@N Filters - the part number is here!

   Ok, I called Summit Racing and asked for my order history to save me
some
time and to let you know the cost of the filter,,,it's $32.95 plus
shipping
and all,the phone number is 1-800-230-3030,,, of course you can get these
filters alot of other places but I just wanted to give this number because
I've delt with them for a long time and have had good luck. The filter
number
is,,, 332002,,,,it's size is,,length 10.75,,,,width 5.125,,,,and thickness
1.625,,,just incase you wanted to know. Also I'd like to add,,if you
decide to
try these filters,I would highly recommend doing away with the pre-heater
valve assembly,,or what ever the name is,,,if you can find a hose to
replace
it ,,,let me know where you found it,,and if you can't find one like I
couldn't,( I really didn't try that hard ), you'll have to do some
cutting on
the inside of the piece,,like I said before ,,this is blocking airflow
about
1/3,,,I really do think that doing that and replaceing the filter helped
my
car run a bit better,,,,as I'm sure you know, every little bit helps when
your
dealing with only 130 hp to begin with. I took the old D out for the first
time this weekend to refuel it with fresh gas and stretch her
legs,,,,isn't it
fun to drive these cars,,,I could go on forever,,,LOL
p.s. If anyone would like to ask exactly what I did to the intake
hose,,please,, feel free to e-mail me,,I would very much like to help,,,,
                   take care
                   J.B.Vincent
vin: 16709
lic: DMC 12

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Apr 1998 23:11:28 -0700
From: "lseiler@xxxxxxxxxxxx" <lseiler@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Bleeding

The final chapter: Bleeding

        After a week of  attempts laying under the D reaching around the
transmission to see and feel the bleed screw for the clutch I finally gave
up and tried a suggestion from a fellow DML member and removed the engine
cvr. And by laying on the engine and pushing and pulling on heater hoses
and wires on the passenger side of the mid line, I finally found it! Of
course the 8mm box wrench fit but there was no angle I could get on it
that
would allow me to break it free. That meant a trip to the auto parts store
for a 10 inch extension. The extension did the trick, in less than a
minute. A 1/4th ID x 18 inch length of clear tubing and an empty bottled
water bottle were all that was needed to bleed the new wire braided clutch
line. I ran the clear tube from the bleed screw nipple up threw a "U" loop
and down into the empty dry water bottle. With the wife doing the foot
work
I was able to purge the new line of air and had positive solid clutch
operation in 15 minutes. The nice thing about this operation you can see
the mechanical parts of the clutch work as you bleed the line.
        The trick here is you "MUST" remover the engine cvr, before it is
possible
to see and access the bleeder fitting. I attempted every possible way to
see and use the bleeder from below, and even using a mirror, You will need
a 10 inch socket extension to break  the fitting loose and tighten it up
when you are finished. You can loosen and tighten the fitting enough for
the bleeding process with a very small 4 inch long 8mm box end wrench.

        I won't know if there is any improvement until I role out and go for a
spin....in a  few days.
Lee Seiler
81DMC-12

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 06:51:07 -0700
From: "Robert A. Rooney" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: DMC in Las Vegas & Nevada. EPA Emissions Loopholes

Sorry it took me so long to write this, but I got kinda busy. There is
a DeLorean in the car museum @ the Imperial Palace. I spoke with one of
the people who work there. Apparently they have their own on-site garage
where they store vehicles in the back. I think that she said that it was
about double the size of the museum! When I called last Thursday to find
out if they owned one, the answer was yes, but they had not rotated it
out front yet! There is Harrah's museum in Reno where one of the
infamous gold DMC's is at, and there is the museum in Laughlin @ the
Riverside Resort (about 90 miles from Vegas). All three places rotate
their collections between one another. So the gold DeLorean was in fact
in Vegas!!! As far as who plans on where & when the are moved to, I have
no idea, but maybe something could be worked out to have them ship the
gold one down to Vegas the next time there is an expo... Laughlin is
selling the D that they have. It's an 81 (not sure of VIN, but it has a
flat hood, no emblem on the front, so if I am correct, than that means
that it's one of the first 500) less than 25,000 miles, & excellent
condition for $18,750. But looks like the bottom half (under the
molding) is painted. Has sold sign, but no-one has pick it up yet. Been
sitting for about a year, but the registration paper attached on th
window isn't a Nevada tag. There are also about 5 D's in Vegas I've
found that are owned privately, but nobody drives them!
        2 things on emmissions. First in California, & possibly in Nevada &
Utah(or any state w/a smog standard) 2 types of cars are exempt from the
law. First are pre-law produced one (obviously not a D), and
ir-repairable ones. If you can prove the you have spent enough money on
your vehicle that you have exceeded the minimum allotment (not sure of
$dollar amount or form #, $2,000 in CA i think) than your vehicle is
exempt from the law forever! Second, I've seen in the J.C. Whittney car
accessory catalogues cast iron needle vavles for racing & off road
vehicles that mount in-line so that you can by-pass you exhaust system
completely. Plus you can control the valves inside you car while
driving. So why not weld one on to by-pass the CAT, but plugs into a
spliter section to guide the gas through the muffler to keep it quiet.
So then anytime you need to pass inspection (certification or
"smog-traps" on the road) you can just flip a switch! Just an idea...

Robert

- ----------------- End Forwarded Message -----------------

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998 23:44:22 -0700
From: Matt Peak <mpeak@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: My OEM and ultimate Delorean

Dave and others:

I keep my Delorean very close to OEM condition because I love the Delorean
as much for its place in history as I do for the car itself.  I like
knowing that this is how John Delorean saw the car, what was chosen for
it,
and how it has been immortalized.  I have made several component upgrades
(including relays fans, SS clutch and brake lines, cross drilled brake
rotors, aluminum coolant overflow bottle, window regulator) but besides
shorter front springs and larger tires (205/60 & 245/60), I haven't done
anything to the interior or exterior cosmetics.  The Delorean wrote one of
the most interesting chapters in automotive history and for me, major
modifications would be comparable to fixing the crack in the liberty bell
or completing the Winchester Mystery House.  I like my Delorean original.

This doesn't mean I don't dream of owning another one.  Like many of you,
I
dream about completing a car that didn't have the chance to benefit from
years of engineering like most cars do.  In about five to ten years, I
hope
to begin putting together an updated, unique Delorean.  This is what I've
been dreaming of:

Buying a thrashed Delorean with a dent free body, taking it apart, and
making the following changes:

Chassis:
New stainless steel, five speed chassis from Pearce Design.
Rear anti-sway bar with a larger diameter than the current after-market
sway bar.
Reinforced front lower control arms from Delorean Motor Center, L.A.
Adjustable rear suspension components from DMC, L.A.
Modified, lower front and rear springs from Delorean Motor Company,
Houston.
Brand new PRV6 engine from DMC, Houston, with low compression forged
pistons, twin-turbo system with custom designed twin intercoolers with an
air compression of about 15psi, and replacement of the K-jetronic fuel
injection system with a motronic system and Dinan chip.
New Centerforce clutch.
Carrera racing shocks from Specialty Automotive.
Upgraded cooling system including heavy duty radiator, aluminum coolant
overflow bottle, and air-bypass system.
All new electronics including Delco 140 amp alternator, Bosch relays,
Fanzilla, Lockzilla, Tankzilla, and window regulators.
High performance braking system including new master cylinder, stainless
steel clutch lines, carbon metallic brake pads, and custom designed
cross-drilled, vented brake rotors of a diameter yet to be reasearched.
Front suspension (sway bar) upgrade.
Adjustable clutch link from PJ Grady.
Upgraded environmentally friendly AC system.
Trailing arm bolt upgrade kit from PJ Grady.
215/50ZR 15 front and 255/50ZR 16 rear tires on silver BBS wheels.

Body:
British Racing Green paint.
Ram-air intakes from Lee Seiler (?)
Solis clear UV window proctectant.
Reinforced door-struts, ball joints, and latches from PJ Grady.

Interior:
Replacement of original leather with high quality, British cream-beige
color along with headliners, dash, arm rest, knee pads, doors, gear shift
boot; black highlights around interior.
New Hummer front and rear dome lights.
New seats and other needed items.
Finished walnut center console with other walnut highlights around the
interior including the gear shift knob.
Ashtray cup holder (?)
High performance (Clarion?) stereo cassette system with remote CD changer
and advanced navigation system, and 6-8 speaker system (new dash & rear
speakers plus additional custom rear and door speakers)

All of these modifications would be performed by me, which is where all
the
fun would come from.  I estimate horsepower to be about 300 and final cost
to be about $50K (if I perform all the labor myself).

Now you know what I think about all day in class.

Matt Peak

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 09:11:50 -0500
From: steve r <stephenr@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Biloxi Meeting

    The Louisiana meeting I have been talking about will be held in
Biloxi, MS instead of LaPlace, LA.  I am very sorry if any of the owners
out there cannot make it.  The reason we will be meeting in Biloxi is so
that we can team up with three owners that live out in Alabama.
    If things turn out well we should be able to expect to have eight
cars at this meeting.  I plan to have it May 9, 1998.  This will be on a
Saturday sometime around noon.  I am hoping that I may be able to find a
nice and small restaurant that we will be able to use for our meeting.
    If you plan on attending please contact me so I can get a list of
everyone who will be there.  Here is how you can get in touch with me:
                phone: 504-386-3816
                pager: 504-350-7911
                email- StephenR@xxxxxxxxxxxx    (is not case-sensitive)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Apr 98 08:08:56 -0700
From: Joel Matos@xxxxxxxxxxxxx (calypso@xxxxxxxxxxxx)
Subject: DML: Fwd: Alternator belts

Problem - I have to change the alternador belt every 3 month, it starst
to making noise and i have to change, i put at the correct  tension and
still braking.

 What im doing wrong and what is the distance bettewen the water pump
pulley and the alternator  and bettewen the motor pulley and the
alternator?

thanks
Joel Matos
vin 3476    Puerto Rico

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 09:53:08 -0500
From: "Steven W. Gilseth" <sgilseth@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Owners in the Twin Cities Area, MN

Hello Everyone,

I have been paying attention to the threads lately about modifications =
vs. OEM and am wondering about how original my DMC is.  I was told from =
the dealer I purchased it from that it is 100% original and I tend to =
believe that it is.  But I am wondering if any other owners in the Twin =
Cities area that know more about this subject would be willing to get =
together some time to compare notes/cars.  I Have only owned the car for ="">
6 months and am curious as too how original it really is.

On a happier note I got the radio working in my DMC.  It took quite a =
bit of hand dexterity to do but it turned out to only be a blown in-line =
fuse and a disconnected speaker wire.  Even the power antenna works.

On the thread regarding the torsion bar adjustments.  I couldn't find =
anything in the manuals regarding the correct tension (i.e. foot lbs.) =
but I recently adjusted my bars.  When I purchased the car the doors =
barely opened.  I had the dealer purchase new struts and replace them =
before I would take the car.  This made the drivers side door open about =
80% and the passenger side open about 60%.  The weather was still warm =
at this time.  As the weather grew colder the drivers door would >
open about 60% and the passenger door wouldn't open at all.  I decide to =
adjust the torsion bar.  As Lee mentioned it is much easier if you have =
someone to help you,  actually a couple of people wouldn't hurt.  A very =
slight movement on the torsion bar really helps on opening the doors.  =
On the drivers door I moved the torsion bar two teeth and the passenger =
side I moved the torsion bar three teeth.  Now my doors open all the way =
and stay there every time.  If the door is flying up and banging I would =
loosen the torsion bar.  The hardest part about adjusting the torsion =
bar was getting the louver back on correctly.

Sorry about the length.

Steve

*********************************************************************
Steven W. Gilseth
Gilseth Consulting, Inc.
sgilseth@xxxxxxxx
DMC VIN# - 5982
BRICKLIN VIN# - Soon
300SL VIN# - Someday

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 11:35:31 EDT
From: TV R US@xxxxxxxxxxxxx (TVRUS@xxxxxxx)
Subject: Re:  DML: Owners in the Twin Cities Area, MN

I've got a DeLorean here in good old Mpls...

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 11:38:51 -0400
From: Geoffroy Birtz <gbirtz@xxxxxx>
Subject: RE: DML: PRV6 possibilities

where do we find headers for the prv6 ?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 11:15:13 -0400
From: Mike Substelny <SUBSTEM@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Re: Windows (Mercedes 300SL Gullwing)

Ryan Bennet wrote:

> There had to be a reason for the "tollbooths" to be implemented
> originally.  I haven't seen a Briklin or Mercedes 300SL, but I wonder
> how they did it.

Mercedes did not solve this problem, they just ignored it!

The Mercedes 300SL Gullwing had no openable windows, and no air
conditioning.  Your only chioce was to open the gullwing doors, which
were much smaller than either the DeLorean's or the Bricklin's.

If you ever have the chance to look at a 300SL Gullwing, notice that the
door sills are ridiculously high.  This was to allow a main frame member
to run under each door, which was the whole point of the gullwing
doors.  This makes it tricky to get into a 300SL Gullwing, and *very*
difficult to get out.

IMO the DeLorean doors are much easier to use, and much better looking
than the Mercedes doors.  They are also more reliable and convenient
than the Bricklin doors.

- - Mike Substelny

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 08:55:34 -0700
From: "lseiler@xxxxxxxxxxxx" <lseiler@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: It's on the way

to All,

        For those of you who are waiting for the DMC-Man 3d T-shirt Iron-On and
DMC keys, Keys are finally shipping. starting to day April 20, and for the
next 3 days I will be addressing and shipping these items.

        The delay is mostly due to just over commitment on my part. All the DMC
projects are things I like doing my self, above and beyond my daily
obligations to my company. Over the past few weeks I have been very busy
expanding our Japanese markets and I was ill for a few weeks, so the time
I
generally set aside for my DMC projects got the worse end of the stick.

        I apologize to any of you who felt you were left out or taken advantage
of. I hope when you start getting your keys and or T-shirt Iron-On you
will
feel that they were worth the wait.

        The T-shirt Iron-On are of the very best quality, if you follow the two
page color instructions you can produce a T-shirt that can be worn for the
life of the shirt with no washout of the Iron-0n.

note: Even the instructions are in 3D. The spectacles (hand made) will
make
many plain images pop into 3D.

Lee Seiler
81DMC-12

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 10:06:21 -0700
From: "Dave Price" <davep@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Re: PRV6 possibilities

I read a message on the online Peugeot mailing list archive over the
weekend
that said the PRV engine was originally designed to be a V8, but the
gas-shortage caused them to make it a V6. However some of the internal
stuff
was still calibrated for a V8, making the engine "unbalanced".  I guess in
'87 Volvo updated the internals, making the engine more "balanced", and
renamed it to B280..  I'll try and find the post again, to see if anyone
can
clarify exactly what this change may be able to do for our engines.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 15:18:56 EDT
From: Calducati <Calducati@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: PRV Cat Removed?

Here in California it is a minimum $5000.00 fine for the removal of the
catalytic convertor by any repair shop.  How this apply to the consumer is
questionable? 

David
ASE Master Technician
California Licensed Smog Technician
Etc, etc,....

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 13:19:26 EDT
From: SoundKillr <SoundKillr@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: PRV6 possibilities

Isnt the O2 sensor in front of the cat? If this is the case The engine
shouldnt adjust for a missing cat. I have removed cats on other cars eg
Mustangs....the power is increased and so is the exaust tone. The engine
never
seemed to care with the exception of the car running "richer" than before
(due
to unburned gas from the free flow system)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 15:45:18 EDT
From: Calducati <Calducati@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: DMC in Las Vegas & Nevada. EPA Emissions Loopholes

In a message Robert stated:

<< 2 things on emmissions. First in California, & possibly in Nevada &
 Utah(or any state w/a smog standard) 2 types of cars are exempt from the
 law. First are pre-law produced one (obviously not a D), and
 ir-repairable ones. If you can prove the you have spent enough money on
 your vehicle that you have exceeded the minimum allotment (not sure of
 $dollar amount or form #, $2,000 in CA i think) than your vehicle is
 exempt from the law forever! >>

Here in California, if your car fails the smog test, " As long as your
vehicle
is not under warranty or does no have a tampered emissions system, you
may be
eligible for a REPAIR COST WAIVER.  This allows you to temporarily waive
certain remaining repairs once you have spent at least $450.00 on
emissions
related repairs.  The remaining repairs must be completed before your next
scheduled Smog Check.  You can only receive on Waiver during your entire
ownership of the vehicle.  Low--Income motorists may qualify for an
Economic
Hardship Extension if the repairs on the vehicle exceed $250.00.  The
extension provides additional time to make further repairs.  Waivers and
Extension are only issued at state run Referee centers."
 
Vehicles that have had parts removed(catalytic convertors), tampered with
emissions components, etc, are not eligible for waivers or extensions, at
least not until the tampered with components are corrected.  If the
emissions
coming out of the tailpipe are beyond a certain level, (normally twice the
normal pass/fail standards) the car is designated a "GROSS POLLUTER."  At
that
point there are no waivers until the cars emissions are brought below the
GROSS POLLUTER emissions readings standards.

It does not pay in horsepower or economy to be messing around with your
car's
emission system.  For horsepower and thrills I ride a Ducati.


David
ASE Master Technician
California Licensed Smog Technician
Etc., etc,......

------------------------------

End of dmcnews-digest V3 #355
*****************************

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