dmcnews-digest Monday, March 30 1998 Volume 03 : Number 345
In this issue:
DML: Re: Insurance
Re: DML: DMC meets PA
Re: DML: Re: Insurance
DML: Automatic Transmission Governors
DML: Delorean Auction
Re: DML: Re: Lowering the front only
DML: Auto trans. governor
Re: DML: Do All DMCs have these holes?
DML: DeLoreans in Michigan
Re: DML: Auto trans. governor
DML: Louisianna owners
DML: Re: Lowering the front only
Re: DML: Auto trans. governor
DML: Battery drainage problem
DML: Page update
DML: Suspension Height/Toe-In Spec
DML: Frame
DML: SOLAR POWER
Re: DML: Battery drainage problem
DML: DeLorean rental
DML: Re:Re:automatic transmission
DML: thanks Nikki Schuhmann
DML: transmission swap
DML: DMC Warehouse Opening
DML: Car won't idle
DML: Re: DeLoreans in Michigan
Re: DML: Car won't idle
Re: DML: Auto trans. governor
Re: DML: Car won't idle
Re: DML: DMC Warehouse Opening
DML: Lowering springs
Re: DML: SOLAR POWER
[Fwd: DML: Battery drainage problem]
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Mar 1998 12:29:35 -0800
From: "Ryan Bennett" <rpbennet@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Re: Insurance
I have both my cars insured through 20th Century (which I believe only
exists for California cars) and I pay $840 per year on my D as a second
car.
That is with a $250 deductable. Being 25, single, and in a so-so area near
Oakland, I think the rate is excellent.
- -Ryan Bennett
#1085
>> I just got my car a few weeks ago and am having trouble finding and
>> insurance company with decent rates as I only plan to drive my car a few
>> miles a week and spend the rest of the time restoring it. It's not my
>> primary vehicle and most insurance companies don't have the car in their
>> records. Could anyone recommend some companies that you might have had
>> luck with, any classic car speciality insurance companies, etc.? I sure
>> would appreciate it. Thanks.
>>
>> -Mike
>> #0981
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Mar 1998 16:49:20 -0800
From: Nathan Gess <delorean12@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: DMC meets PA
I live in Latrobe Pa, and my friend has a DMC. He doesn't drive it and
it just sits in his garage. I am puurchasing one in December also.
Nathan Gess
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Downs/7770/
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Mar 1998 17:18:17 -0600
From: scottmueller@xxxxxxxxx (Scott Mueller)
Subject: Re: DML: Re: Insurance
I have State Farm Insurance for my DeLorean and other vehicles. Full
coverage costs about $50/month, 50/250 deductables. I have a mileage
limit of 7500/year. They will insure it as a "Vintage/Collectors" car,
but that limits the miles to 2000/year. Premium would be 35 - 40 /
month. I'm currently in Alabama and previously had it insured with
State Farm in California. While in CA, my house was broken in to and
the scum were playing around in my car in the locked garage. The scum
did some uphostery damage. State Farm sent out there exotic car
specialist who paid me enough to have all damage repaired/replaced. He
also inspected the car and certified it as being in mint/new condition.
That will help if ever I have future claims.
Scott Muller
Vin 2981
DOA
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Mar 1998 17:04:33 -0600
From: "Hershey, Mark" <MHershey@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Automatic Transmission Governors
These governors seem to be a 100% (or more) failure item. Mine failed
twice;
I was able to repair it both times but my fix is crude and a little ugly.
Like Mr. Hutchinson, I hooked up both two small lamps, electrically wired
across the two shift solenoids (electrically speaking) to show when they
were on. This was easy and non-invasive-- I used bannana plugs to connect
to
the governor connection / test points under the Governor harness'
protective
weather cap (round thing, engine compartment firewall, driver side, pry up
the captive 1.5" dia. cover)).
I'll see if I can get some kind of diagram on the list soon.
Anyway, the solenoids are both ON at idle, then, as you accelerate, the
first drops out causing the car to shift to Second, then the second drops
out causing the shift to Third. When the governor screws up, it rather
arbitrarily turns these solenoids on whenever it wants. The usual failure
is
that the car does a first or second gear hold, or drops back down to
second
from third erratically. I was surprised to hear of any actual mechanical
transmission damage; the transmission fluidics are supposed to protect it
from doing anything drastic like downshifting to first at 70.
And fortunately the Governor and the solenoids have nothing to do with
Reverse!
How do the Governor electronics know when to shift?
There is a small AC alternator built into the yellow plastic Governor
housing mounted to the side of the transmission. It connects to some shaft
inside the transmission with a small plastic sleeve.
That little alternator is driven by forward motion of the car, and it
feeds
AC voltage through an electronic circuit inside the Governor known as a
Wheatstone bridge. The Bridge is mechanically coupled by cable to the
throttle, such that the combination of forward speed and throttle position
determine the AC voltage fed to two circuit boards inside the Governor
that
can be loosely described as an analog Computer.
Two super el-cheapo, crude design voltage level comparator circuits
monitor
this voltage; when it gets to a certain point it cuts power to the first
solenoid, then, as voltage continues to rise with speed, it cuts out the
second. A similar thing happens as you slow down, only the solenoids come
back on at different voltages than they dropped out at. Technically, this
is
known as hysterisis (probably spelled wrong) curve and it's operation is a
function of component choices in the comparator circuits.
There are four common failure modes:
1) The driver transistors feeding the solenoids ocassionally fail. Not all
that often; they are $2.00 items at Radio Shack.
2) The solder job on the two small circuit boards inside the Governor is
crappy, and moisture gets in there and eventually makes bad connections
worse. The second most common failure.
3) A small electrolytic (actually tantalum) capacitor goes bad, probably
from voltage spikes from the starter and when you jump start the DMC or
use
it to jump another car. This failure can show up as much as a year or two
after the spike. Third most common failure.
4) The Comparator circuit is extremely sensitive to moisture. I don't know
if the Integrated circuit chips are to blame or some of the associated
components, but any moisture on these boards, even a little condensation,
will cause erratic operation. Number 1 problem.
Here's what I did about 6 years ago, and so far, no problem. Again, this
is
drastic, but here goes:
1) Remove the governor assembly from the transmission (two bolts)
2) Pry up and remove the rectangular aluminum cap (point of no return). BE
CAREFUL, there a couple parts that are often stuck/glued to the inside of
this cover. Separate carefully.
3) Dig out the white RTV Silastic silicone sealer goo stuff
4) Unsolder the three 1/4" long bare silver wires between the AC
alternator
and the first of two circuit boards. These are the only wires you'll see,
right on top there. Note that the alternator is not accessable within the
plastic assembly; you will see only three solder posts sticking up out of
the plastic housing. Careful with solder heat here to avoid compromising
the
seal around the posts. If the alternator goes bad you are stuck with
replacement of the whole assembly, so be careful
5) Slide the double board assembly (along with the removable part of the
yellow housing where the cables enter) out of the alternator housing. Yes,
the thing really does come out. What looks like mold parting lines on the
yellow casting around where the big black cables enter the housing are
actually seams. Probably where moisture gets in. Just slide the thing
straight up out of where the aluminum cover used to be.
6) Fix the bad part (OK, this may leave some of you non-electronic types
out
there out in the rain, more later)
7) Find some flexible 3-conductor wire, about 4 feet long, and solder to
the
three alternator leads in the yellow Housing where you unsoldered the
three
small leads in Step 4.
8) Solder the other end to the circuit board where you unsoldered the
three
wires in Step 4. Think of these last two steps as a 4-foot extension cord
between the Housing and the circuit board assy. And YES, the three leads
need to be in the same left-center-right order as they were before Step 4.
What we're doing here is fooling the circuit boards into "thinking" they
are
still mounted in the housing, undisturbed.
9) Mount the governor, sans boards and aluminum cover, back on the
transmission and hang the two boards up in the engine compartment
somewhere.
Tie off all cables so they don't touch hot things.
10) Drive the car (not raining!) and make sure everything shifts OK.
11) If all OK, spread open the two boards like butterfly wings, test the
car
again, then coat the two boards liberally with clear lacquer (I used
Krylon,
about 10 coats. I swear, high humidity even makes these boards erratic
without a good moisture coating!
12) You can just leave the boards hanging if you like, or, mount them in a
Radio Shack project case, or put 'em back into the governor housing. I
left
mine in the engine compartment for fast accessability next time it failed.
No failure so far, about 5 years later.
How to troubleshoot and fix the boards themselves:
Can't describe every possible failure, but here's a few.
Pass Transistors - These are the two three-legged parts hanging off the
circuit boards. Both have a metal tab with a hole in it, and both are
probably marked "RCA" The aluminum cover originally serves as a sort of a
heat sink. Both are identical. Either may be bad if one of the lamps
always
stays ON or always stays OFF. If either change sometimes, the transistors
probably are OK.
Capacitor - Small silver tubular thing near the outer edge of one of the
boards. Mine was obvious- blown in two!. Find an electronics friend to
test
and replace this one.
Solder joints - Carefully remove some of the brownish coating near where
the
cables attach to the board (use lacquer thinner on a small hobby brush.k,
VERY SMALL AMOUNT, don't want ANY drips to damage or dissolve markings on
parts . Resolder everything in site with a little solder flux. Use a
qualified electronics-type friend for this.
Now, listen up, here's the good part. I have considered setting up a
repair
service for the things. Maybe even finish a design for a micropressor
controlled replacement to build into the housing.
To do either I need to build a test fixture to drive the alternator with a
variable speed motor, voltmeters to monitor shift solenoid outputs, and
to
test and calibrate shift points. To do so I obviously need a dead
Governor,
and so far I haven't found anyone interested in parting with their old one
cheap (really cheap). And, I'd like to know whether there is any real
interest first.. it sounds like these buggers are still failing!
Any interest, please E-mail me back directly (mhershey@xxxxxxxxxxx) and
I'll
let you know via the List if it becomes a practical thing to do.
In any case, I'll try to create and post plans for an easy test jig to
determine if the governor is the culprit at all. Gotta go to the wayback
machine for diagrams.
And, you guys that personally know P.J. Grady Mr. Wynne, and others: Ask
'em
if they could use such a service. Don't know if originals are getting
scarce
or not, and whether a fix is significantly cheaper than their cost. They
may
prefer to sell new ones. And make no mistake, the things aren't
particularly
easy to get completely off the car for shipping because of the need to
disassemble cables to the solenoids and to disconnect the
park/neutral/reverse switch where it attaches to the transmission. You
might
want a service center to do that for you.
Let me know!
Mark Hershey
Vin 2790
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Mar 1998 19:08:56 EST
From: Mike03062 <Mike03062@xxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Delorean Auction
Earlier this month an '82 D was auctioned (silent auction) @ Christian
School
in Charlotte NC. It was an automatic with low mileage (I was told). I was
unable to view it nor did I have time to have a DeLorean guy look at it
for
me so I bid low and was wondering who was the successful bidder. Anyone
Hear???
Mike03062@xxxxxxx
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Mar 1998 21:07:12 EST
From: DPitt96279 <DPitt96279@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Re: Lowering the front only
I Got my front springs from Rob Grady for X-mas
Looks 100 percent better.
I think they were around 150 bucks
Donovan
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Mar 1998 23:39:49 -0500
From: "Mike Thomas" <comptrol@xxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Auto trans. governor
I'd like to thank all of you guys who responded with great ideas about
governor troubleshooting. I found a Delorean World back issue (Summer
'87)
that described the test connector well enough that I was able to do the
LED
trick and determine the governor was the cause. New one should be here
tomorrow. Once the new one arrives and works, I will disembowel the dead
one and see what I have. Rob Grady strongly recommended not driving the
car
until the gizmo is replaced - apparently people have cooked their
transmissions this way.
I am also an electronics type, which leads to the following observations:
1. I am shocked that mounting the governor brains anywhere but right next
to the cheesy generator works - I would expect electrical noise to wreak
havoc with such a low voltage signal (or maybe it isn't).
2. If we devised a replacement, wouldn't it be better to use a prox
switch
looking at CV joint bolts or something? It would be a simpler interface
and
hassle-free PCB layout. My company routinely uses this method to measure
speed with great accuracy (not that we really need it in this case). This
approach would also allow the thing to be mounted elsewhere, and you could
leave the dead one in place for the seal.
3. I have a dirt cheap source for PCB fabrication who will do a double
sided board with no solder mask or silkscreen for probably less than
+ACQ-10 for
a project this size.
I'm currently thinking about doing a PCB for my door key to restore the
light function. Most parts are missing from my key. PCB would be dirt
cheap, setup charge is around +ACQ-60. Therefore, if I do it, I will
probably
run several boards to bring unit cost down. A pushbutton, battery and
light
would probably cost less that +ACQ-5. I don't think I have time to get
this
done until summer or fall. Anyone else tentatively interested?
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Mar 1998 23:41:34 -0500
From: "Mike Thomas" <comptrol@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Do All DMCs have these holes?
Mine has cheesy screw setup as well. I thought the prevous owner had
hacked
them in.
Mike
VIN 02749
Aug? '81 build
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 28 Mar 98 06:17:10 EST
From: L Sandel <34NPJUB@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: DeLoreans in Michigan
...do they exist? But seriously, I've been living in the Mt. Pleasant
area
for most of my life and have only seen one once 30 Miles away in Midland.
I've been a fan of the car (and hopefull future owner) for quite some
time now,
but... gasp... have never seen one up close. I would very much like the
chance to actually have a look, and maybe even sit inside one. Anways, I
would gladly treat somebody to lunch if they wouldn't mind entertaining
me for
a little while. I'll drive to practically any end of the state. :)
Please
email me if anybody can accommidate!
Luke Sandel, KC8EHN
email: Luke.Sandel@xxxxxxxxx
- ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
- ----
CMU Technology Operations student network manager, Woldt-Emmons computer
lab.
http://labwww.csv.cmich.edu/luke
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 28 Mar 1998 14:38:38 EST
From: JSteuben <JSteuben@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Auto trans. governor
My, Key light has been driving me nuts. Count me in, please do it!
Thanks,
Joe
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 28 Mar 1998 16:24:30 -0600
From: steve r <stephenr@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Louisianna owners
I was wondering if there are any owners in Louisianna that would like to
get together sometimes for a lunch.
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 28 Mar 98 14:37:00 PST
From: Knut S Grimsrud <Knut_S_Grimsrud@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Re: Lowering the front only
I think there is a series of articles in the back issues of the DeCO
newsletter on my experience in lowering the front end only. I lowered
the front end only a little bit because my car originally looked like it
was nose high. A modest lowering of the front of the car to reduce the
appearance of the nose being up in the air is quite attractive and very
straight-forward.
Back issues of the DeCO newsletter atr available in the CLUB tab of the
DMC FAQ at www.dmcnews.com
Knut Grimsrud
DeLorean Club of Oregon
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 28 Mar 1998 19:52:35 EST
From: DMC3309 <DMC3309@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Auto trans. governor
My door key too is missing the guts for the light. I always wanted to
restore
this light on my door key. Let me know what you decide.
Robert Gorski
VIN 3309
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 29 Mar 1998 10:45:06 -0600
From: steve r <stephenr@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Battery drainage problem
In the past i think i have heard things about how some of you who
have had
problems with their bateries draining. If this is so, I think i may have
figured out an inexpensive solution that will keep your battery at full
power.
I know of a company that can get you 12 volt solar cells for only $29. It
would be very easy to run a solar cell directly into the battery and
mount the
solar cell somewhere on the outside of the car. These are weather poof
cells.
Has anyone ever thought of this in the past? There telephone number is
1-800-807-8649 and the part number is #113. I hope this helps out any
people
that may have problems with their batteries.
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 29 Mar 1998 15:25:56 -0500
From: DMC-FLUX <DMC-FLUX@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Page update
Hello all,
I bought my car in Feb. of last year and I have had only one
problem that has eluded me. When both doors are up the doors
don't line up the same height-wise. I have called several
places and they said that it was not uncommon to have the
doors raise to different levels and that the only way to fix
them was to remove the struts and fill in the holes where
they connect, then drill new ones at the right place. This I
was told could be time consuming as well as dangerous to a
novice. Has anyone else tinkered with a similar problem and
a possible solution besides the one above?
BTW I have also updated my pages to include many new
pictures. Please feel free to visit them at
http://www.geocities.com/rodeodrive/8601/jacksdel.html
Best regards,
Dmc-flux mailto:DMC-FLUX@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 29 Mar 98 20:17:27 -0000
From: David Swingle <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Suspension Height/Toe-In Spec
#5429 is back on the road! With the arrival of nice weather here in
Illinois, I've completed my winter project just in time. I have a
question, though, regarding the stock height of the front suspension. I
completely disassembled it, cleaned everything up, added the stabilizer
recall kit, and installed new shocks (stock Girling) and tires (stock
size Yokohama). The thing that's wierd is that the car seems to sit
higher in the front than before. I re-used the stock springs, and even
centered (pre-loaded) the control arm bushings before tightening the
fittings.
I didn't think to measure the ride height prior to taking it apart. It
looks higher than before, but since I haven't seen it on the ground in
five months it's a little hard to go by that. The manual calls for a
hight of 5.5 inches from the ground at the center of the front
crossmember. I am getting about 6.75 inches there unless I put about 400
lbs in the front trunk. The car seems to ride just fine, smoother than
before I started. It would be handy if someone could measure the
clearance of a stock height car for comparison. I'm suspicious as to the
accuracy of the factory spec since the design ride height seems to have
changed at the last minute.
Any ideas on why this thing would sit high? Springs are properly seated.
Is it necessary to preload the bushings more than I did? I'd be very
surprised if that would even have any effect.
Also - The Workshop Manual specifies toe-in at 1/2 degree each side,
whereas the tech bulletin ST-34-1/82 specifies 3 mm per wheel, but
doesn't say where the 3mm is measured. Both spec the setting height as
the same 5.5 inches. What do you usually tell the alignment shop?
Thanks!
Dave Swingle
81 VIN 5429
DOA, DMC, DMC(Midwest)
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 29 Mar 98 21:54:44 PST
From: "Brandon S. Moody" <bsmoody@xxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Frame
Anyone that has a frame for sale, please
send info . I need one of each ( manual
and auto) NO RUST !!!!!!
- -Brandon
bsmoody@xxxxxxx
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 7:41:20 -0600
From: Don Gowler-CFPO01 <Don_Gowler-CFPO01@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: SOLAR POWER
I have one that plugs into the lighter and sits on the dashboard but it
just does not give off enough amperage during the sunny times to
compensate for drain during the rest of the day.
Regards, The Silver Fox
>----------
>From: stephenr@xxxxxxxxxxxx%INTERNET
>Reply To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxx%INTERNET
>Sent: Monday, March 30, 1998 4:38 AM
>To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxx%INTERNET
>Subject: DML: Battery drainage problem
>
> In the past i think i have heard things about how some of you who
>have had
>problems with their bateries draining. If this is so, I think i may have
>figured out an inexpensive solution that will keep your battery at full
>power.
>I know of a company that can get you 12 volt solar cells for only $29. It
>would be very easy to run a solar cell directly into the battery and
>mount the
>solar cell somewhere on the outside of the car. These are weather poof
>cells.
>Has anyone ever thought of this in the past? There telephone number is
>1-800-807-8649 and the part number is #113. I hope this helps out any
>people
>that may have problems with their batteries.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 11:20:14 +0100
From: The DMC-12 <msg101@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Battery drainage problem
The only thing solar cells would be any good for is charging the batt, and
solar cells supply a very low current. Therefore, you'd need quite a few
before they'd make any noticeable difference to the "life" of a charge.
$29
per cell is still a lot more than a simple charger, or even another
(bigger)
batt.
- --correct me if I'm wrong :-)
Martin
steve r wrote:
> In the past i think i have heard things about how some of you who
> have had
> problems with their bateries draining. If this is so, I think i may have
> figured out an inexpensive solution that will keep your battery at full
> power.
> I know of a company that can get you 12 volt solar cells for only $29. It
> would be very easy to run a solar cell directly into the battery and
> mount the
> solar cell somewhere on the outside of the car. These are weather poof
> cells.
> Has anyone ever thought of this in the past? There telephone number is
> 1-800-807-8649 and the part number is #113. I hope this helps out any
> people
> that may have problems with their batteries.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 00:00:34 EST
From: Trackguy98 <Trackguy98@xxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: DeLorean rental
Hello,
I am looking to rent a DeLorean for the weekend of May 8-10, 1998. I
live
in the Albany, NY area. I am willing to pay $150 a day. If you or someone
you
know can help me, please email me back ASAP, my email address is
Trackguy98@xxxxxxxx Thank you.
Robert
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 14:02:51 +0100
From: wzach.lehrer.htl.htl-braunau@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: DML: Re:Re:automatic transmission
Thanks for your automatic discussion!
Mark Hershey and others described a way to fix
(get rid of) the automatic shift problems exact
the way I wanted to go. With the description
of them it will be much easier (now I am sure
not to make damage by the things I planned to do).
I plan to install the electric shift control
(== the two LEDs) permanently in the dashbord
by using a 7-segment indicator showing the
actual gear as a number sign.
Mark's idea of designing a uP controlled replacement
is great, maybe I play around with this in summer too.
(build up a more intelligent control unit with
selectable shift program : SPORT/NORMAL/ECONOMY as
used in my BMW735).
I forgot to mention that I had to replace the transmission
oil-pressure-regulator because of oil leakage and did
not check the system pressure since then -> maybe this
causes the missing 2nd gear -> I soon will check as
described in the workshop-manual.
Btw.: I am able to repair power-window switches and rear-
defogger switches, anyone interested ?
I also plan to build up a new reliable electronic for
the doorlocks, step one : 1:1 replacement
step two : including contactless chipcard
to open/close and start-inhibit
MfG Wolfgang
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 14:15:38 +0100
From: wzach.lehrer.htl.htl-braunau@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: DML: thanks Nikki Schuhmann
Hello Nikki !
Thanks for answering and offering your help.
In fact you did not see my car last year, I bought
it nearby Hannover. But I am interested in a more
detailed description when and where you saw that
car, maybe I could get in contact.
At the moment I am in search for an old Renault
R30 with automatic transmission (as a spare part)
for a cheap price.
If I don't find any here in Austria or nearby in
Germany I would appreciate your help.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 15:21:14 +0100
From: wzach.lehrer.htl.htl-braunau@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: DML: transmission swap
Did anyone out there ever change the automatic
transmission to a manual transmission ?
I was told by a Renault-workplace that they
did this often to R30 and R25 because of the
reliability problems and poor performance.
Is this work useful for DeLOREANs ?
Mfg Wolfgang
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 7:38:36 -0600
From: Don Gowler-CFPO01 <Don_Gowler-CFPO01@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: DMC Warehouse Opening
Ken, any chance at all of getting Steve to open up sooner? For those of
us, and I gather there are many, that have a 5 plus hour return drive
home on Sunday and want to beat the late afternoon/early evening traffic
and would probably spend 2 to 3 hours at the warehouse will need an
earlier start.
Best regards, The Silver Fox
>----------
>From: KKoncelik@xxxxxxx%INTERNET
>Reply To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxx%INTERNET
>Sent: Friday, March 27, 1998 2:37 PM
>To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxx%INTERNET
>Subject: DML: Cincinnati Car Show Update
>
(SNIP)
>COLUMBUS OPEN HOUSE
>
>I talked to Steve the other day and decided its time to set a time for the
>Sunday Event. There has been a lot of speculation so here are the
>official
>times.
>
>The Group will Leave Cincinnati at 10:00 AM, Sunday, June 14th from the
>Comfort Suite hotel parking lot.
>The trip will take 1 1/2 hours since a convoy will probably be a bit slower.
>Steve will open the Warehouse at 11:00 AM and will keep it open till between
>5:00 and 6:00PM. He will make sure everyone is taken care of by the time we
>need to leave and he is bringing his crew up to Columbus to take care of us.
>
>Thanks again for the great support.
>
>Ken
>For the latest information on the DeLorean Car Show
>this summer in Cincinnati, send email to "show98@xxxxxxxxxxx"
------------------------------
Date: 30 Mar 1998 07:53:53 -0600
From: Dave.Sontos@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: DML: Car won't idle
Just a followup on my problem. I pulled the injectors and soaked them
overnight in zylene. I made up a fuel injector cleaner based on a
description from a back issue newsletter, sorry I don't remember the
authors name, using a 6" long 1" pipe nipple with two end caps
drilled and taped for 1/4" pipe. I added two cock shut off valves and
a pressure guage and made a adapter for the injector by threading one
end of a male air chuck to 8mm-1 to screw into the end of the
injector. I then added a small amount of injector cleaner to the pipe
nipple and screwed the end cap on. Attaching the injector and closing
the bottom valve, pressurized the pipe with air and closed off the
top valve, I could now read the pressure guage and open the bottom
valve. You can now see the spray pattern and see the injector shutoff
pressure. Mine sprayed streams in odd directions and shutoff around
20 pounds. I have the injectors soaking some more in mineral spirits
and will try again, but I don't have good expectations. I think they
are just plain worn out and will have to be replaced.
I was also checking the operation of my cold start valve and idle
speed motor. When I removed the connector from the idle speed motor I
noticed the connector only had two contacts for the three contacts on
the motor. I marked the two contact positions on the motor so I new
which ones to check when I got back to the workbench. The motor
checked ok, so I checked my manual to see what else to check when I
noticed the wire diagram for the motor had "three" wires going to it.
Uh-oh. Sure enough looking up inside the connector was the missing
contact. I pulled it back into position and hot glued the back end of
the connector to keep the contact in place.
As soon as I get the injector problem finished we shall see how it
runs then.
One step forward three steps back.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 09:22:58 -0500
From: Mike Substelny <SUBSTEM@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Re: DeLoreans in Michigan
Luke Sandel said:
> I would very much like the chance to actually have a look, and
> maybe even sit inside one (a DeLorean). Anways, I would gladly
> treat somebody to lunch if they wouldn't mind entertaining
> me for a little while.
Luke, I am pretty certain that there must be a few DeLoreans in Michigan.
If you can't find one then you are free to come to Cleveland and check
mine out. I think Michigan has more car museums than any state, and
many car museums have DeLoreans on display (I posted a somewhat
dated list last year that you can find in the DML back issues).
If you are serious about getting to know DeLoreans, you should check
out the DeLorean Car Show in Cincinnati this June. Here you could see
all the DeLoreans you want, meet a lot of us face to face, and talk to
some of the renowned DeLorean experts whose names we toss around
on the DML (Wynn, Grady, and Bauerle, maybe others?). There are a lot
of people who will be coming from MUCH farther away than Michigan;
you are practically in the neighborhood!
I know there are DeLorean owners and DML subscribers in Northwest
Ohio who are coming to the Cincinnati event, so maybe you could pair up
with some of them to share a ride part of the way.
The DeLorean Club of Ohio has another event tentatively scheduled for
August 1st at Cedar Point in Sandusky, Ohio. If this works out (we are
still negotiating with the park management) then it will be a good chance
to see some DeLoreans pretty close to Michigan.
- - Mike Substelny
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 11:05:01 -0600
From: Jordan Gary <jordang@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Car won't idle
I had my injectors cleaned at a Volvo dealer. The mechanic told me and
showed me how he does it. He has a machine about like yours and he pumps
regular paint thinner through the injectors. He may push a quart through
them and he reuses the thinner. Mine cleaned up nicely from hardly
spraying to doing just fine. However mine were only 4 years old and were
in a car which was allowed to sit maybe 3 years and the injection system
then quit working. Jordan Gary
Dave.Sontos@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
> Just a followup on my problem. I pulled the injectors and soaked them
> overnight in zylene. I made up a fuel injector cleaner based on a
> description from a back issue newsletter, sorry I don't remember the
> authors name, using a 6" long 1" pipe nipple with two end caps
> drilled and taped for 1/4" pipe. I added two cock shut off valves and
> a pressure guage and made a adapter for the injector by threading one
> end of a male air chuck to 8mm-1 to screw into the end of the
> injector. I then added a small amount of injector cleaner to the pipe
> nipple and screwed the end cap on. Attaching the injector and closing
> the bottom valve, pressurized the pipe with air and closed off the
> top valve, I could now read the pressure guage and open the bottom
> valve. You can now see the spray pattern and see the injector shutoff
> pressure. Mine sprayed streams in odd directions and shutoff around
> 20 pounds. I have the injectors soaking some more in mineral spirits
> and will try again, but I don't have good expectations. I think they
> are just plain worn out and will have to be replaced.
>
(SNIP)
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 09:08:39 -0800
From: Dave Price <davep@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Auto trans. governor
>2. If we devised a replacement, wouldn't it be better to use a prox switch
>looking at CV joint bolts or something? It would be a simpler interface and
>hassle-free PCB layout. My company routinely uses this method to measure
>speed with great accuracy (not that we really need it in this case). This
>approach would also allow the thing to be mounted elsewhere, and you could
>leave the dead one in place for the seal.
I'm all for this idea!! I'm not looking forward to replacing the thing
every 30K ...
Dave
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 12:15:12 EST
From: JSteuben <JSteuben@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Car won't idle
Hi Dave,
Or....Get in touch with RC Engineering in Torrance California. They have
a
custom built flow bench and they clean, rebuild, balance, and blueprint
fuel
injectors for about $45.00 a piece. (310) 320-2277, or
(rcenginj@xxxxxxx).
they really know their stuff and did a great job on my old SVO Mustang.
Good
hunting, Joe
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 13:15:59 EST
From: KKoncelik <KKoncelik@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: DMC Warehouse Opening
Actually the will be up there from about 9:00 on and steve just listed
11:00
as a time he would be ready for the big group. If you arrived between
earlier it probably is not a problem. I just got off the phone with
steve two
minutes ago before I read your mail. Next time I talk to him I'll verify
it
but it doesn't appear that will be a problem.
Ken
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 15:08:31 -0500
From: John Murray <jwmurray@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Lowering springs
DML'ers,
I have a set of those 'original design springs' from the original
designer of the DMC-12 suspension. They were commisioned by Steven
Wynne, as Thom Smithson stated. My car is the first car in the US to
have these springs. Steven Wynne had only a couple of sets made. He told
me that they will be making more in the near future. Steven Wynne's main
concern for these springs was to increase handeling performance only.
Apperance was not a concern. The set of 4 springs lowered the front
aprox. 2 inches and the rear aprox 1 inch. I dont have exact numbers
because I did not measure before and after height of the car. The first
drive in my car with these new springs was great. The Jag Shop in
Florida, where I live, did the work. Owned and operated by David Wynne,
Steven's nephew. David had ten DeLoreans in the shop when I picked up my
car. After driving another DeLorean with stock springs, and jumping
directly into my newly lowered car, I could really feel the difference.
If you are considering lowering springs, call DMC Houston. If you have
lowering springs already, take them out and call DMC Houston. Well worth
every penny. Besides the amazing handeling it really looks great!(read
as: bad ass!) At low speeds and at high speeds(read as: VERY high
speeds) the car is stable and sure footed, like a DeLorean SHOULD be. I
am just a very happy customer, not an advertisement. I have driven many
D's that were lowered by various methods, cut-n-swap, cutting fronts,
heating the springs, and a few of the other springs you can buy from
advertisers in DeLorean World and such. There is no comparison. Call
Steven or Warren and just ask about them! Hope to see you all at the
show this summer!
John Murray
VIN#2390
FL Lic. 81DMC12
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 15:45:22 EST
From: Kayo Ong <KayoOng@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: SOLAR POWER
Guys,
For my experiences, if you just have a slight minor electrical draw, and
the
alterantor and battery are in good order, just buy a "battery buddy".
This
will be just the same price as two solar panels and eliminate those rainy
days
when there is no sun. Everytime you have car troubles is a rainy day.
Lucus?
Prince of Darkness?
Kayo Ong
#05508
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 14:54:59 +0000
From: James Nichols <jhnichols@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [Fwd: DML: Battery drainage problem]
steve r wrote:
> In the past i think i have heard things about how some of you who
> have had
> problems with their bateries draining. If this is so, I think i may have
> figured out an inexpensive solution that will keep your battery at full
> power.
> I know of a company that can get you 12 volt solar cells for only $29. It
> would be very easy to run a solar cell directly into the battery and
> mount the
> solar cell somewhere on the outside of the car. These are weather poof
> cells.
> Has anyone ever thought of this in the past? There telephone number is
> 1-800-807-8649 and the part number is #113. I hope this helps out any
> people
> that may have problems with their batteries.
I'm a retired airline pilot and for my last 13 years, commuted to one of
several bases on or near the east coast. I kept an old airport car and
after
a couple years, found that sometimes I would not drive the car for two
months, though sometimes I would drive it twice a week. After finding a
dead
battery late at night and having to beg a jump start, I found a solar
panel
in a surplus electronics store, 1 foot high and 3 feet wide that was
rated at
800ma @15 volts. It would actually put out over 1A @ 15 volts in the back
window with the car facing north. I added an isolating diode and a cigar
lighter plug and never again found a dead battery. When I retired I gave
the
car away and brought the solar panel home. It's been on top of the
boathouse
for the past three years and keeps the trolling battery and the starting
battery fully charged even in the winter.
The Delorean clock draws about 50ma. If you don't drive the car for three
weeks or so, you might not be able to start it. I use a trickle charger
connected to the cigar lighter and controlled by a plug-in timer so that
it
comes on for two hours a day. The charger is a regulated at 14.4 volt
with
output of up to 1.5 amps, so it can't overcharge the battery. Actually
any
trickle charger will work, just so it doesn't put out over 2 amps. The
cigar
lighter is not switched, so it makes a convenient place to plug the
charger
in. I used small zip cord for the feeder wire so the door closes over it
without damaging the seal.
Jim #6884
------------------------------
End of dmcnews-digest V3 #345
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