dmcnews-digest Wednesday, March 11 1998 Volume 03 : Number 339
In this issue:
DML: GOOD GOD! Center Console prices!
DML: Re: Models
Re: DML: Overheating problem
DML: A/C Facia decal
Re: DML: Overheating problem
Re: DML: GOOD GOD! Center Console prices!
DML: "Standard" DeLorean upgrades?
Re: DML: Cennter Console prices - whew -
Re: DML: Overheating problem
Re: DML: GOOD GOD! Center Console prices!
DML: Fuel starvation and pickup hoses
DML: Bleeding the cooling system (was Re: overheat problem)
DML: Finally got time to work on my DMC
Re: DML: Bleeding the cooling system (was Re: overheat problem)
Re: DML: Fuel starvation and pickup hoses
Re: DML: Overheating problem
Re: DML: Fuel starvation and pickup hoses
Re: DML: Bleeding the cooling system (was Re: overheat problem)
DML: Speedo Trip Meter Reset Arm
DML: Re: A/C Facia decal
DML: Automatic Door opener
DML: Engine kills
DML: RE: A/C Facia decal
DML: RE: Bleeding the cooling system (was Re: overheat problem)
DML: RE: Finally got time to work on my DMC
[Fwd: DML: Bleeding the cooling system
DML: Re: Overheating problem
DML: RE: idle problem SOLUTION
DML: Where are my Keys?
Re: DML: Introduction/Question...
DML: Stainless finish
Re: DML: A/C Facia decal
Re: DML: Introduction/Question...
DML: DeLoreans in the Latrobe PA area
DML: more new pictures
Re: DML: Automatic Door opener
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 08:00:56 -0800
From: Dave Price <davep@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: GOOD GOD! Center Console prices!
My center console is getting a little worn so I thought I'd look into
replacing it... Has anyone looked at the prices for those? $700 !! I
thought my eyes were playing tricks on me... Does anyone have a black one
in good condition for sale?
Does this look like that difficult (or expensive) of a part to reproduce?
It's basically just a chunk of vinyl-covered foam with the lighter and
window/defrost button holes in it... I think something could be
fabricated
for much less than $700 ! Lee?
Dave
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 11:14:41 -0800
From: "Nicholas" <nicholas@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Re: Models
I am looking for a Diecast metal Body DeLorean too but I haven't been able
to find one after about 3 months of searching and off and on looking
around
before that. I have been told by several companyes that noone has ever
made
one but I do know that one company did for a short time and they ar
nolonger
production so I am looking to buy one of those If I can find someone
willing
to sell it. Let me know if you happend to find anything out. I am an avid
collector of Diecast model cars I have a lot now.
Nick (nicholas@xxxxxxxxxxxxx - Platinum)
- -----Original Message-----
From: Kevin <kaptaink@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxx <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Date: Tuesday, March 10, 1998 5:45 AM
Subject: DML: Models
>Any one know where I could get a nice DeLorean model? Preferably
>one with a metal body? Thanks for the help.
>
> Kevin (kaptaink@xxxxxxxxxxxx)
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 11:21:08 -0500 (EST)
From: thomas reed <reedted@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Overheating problem
I've only had my D a few months, but it had an overheating problem from
the
moment I got it. Even when it wasn't overheated, it ran very hot.
Replaced
the thermostat and a few other things, nothing helped. Then, a new
mechanic
started really looking at those fans up front. He said they were
spinning, so
they looked okay, but he suspected they weren't spinning as fast as they
should
be. He replaced them and I haven't had a problem since. It runs MUCH
cooler
now. If you're lucky, this'll help you.
Ed Reed
VIN 3117
> I am replacing the engine, water pump and other parts not related, but
> overheating killed the last engine. Any advice on keeping the new engine
> from having a short life.
>
> Any comments that could add to improvements that handles overheating
> problems will surely be appreciated.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Ron
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 08:20:31 -0800
From: Dave Price <davep@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: A/C Facia decal
I just ordered a replacement A/C decal, and besides the trick to keep the
illumination off unless the lights are on, is there anything that can be
done to prevent the illumination bulbs from burning the decal? I don't
want to have to replace the thing every year.. Are there different bulbs
that run cooler, or another modification that can be done? (fiber optics?)
Ideas anyone?
This has to be a common problem.. Especially with the "LOCK DOORS" light..
how many people always remember to lock their doors before they drive
off....?
Dave
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 09:51:16 -0700
From: raddad@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: DML: Overheating problem
Because I have had twin turbos on both of my D's, overheating was an
ongoing problem. Not any more!!
I have the new, brass triple core radiator from Rob Grady. It is super.
Even going up long mountain passes here in Colorado (when I can be in
boost
mode for minutes at a time), the engine runs perfectly normal. I would
highly recommend you go this route if you are already in the process of
spending money on the overall cooling system.
Also, check your fans! The fans can run with out the blades going
around!!! They are designed with shear pins that can brak off if the car
has "bottomed". Another fan problem is that if they have been worked on
before, the wires can be reversed and while even the blades go around, the
fan can be blowing back towards the radiator rather than sucking the air
through.
Dick Ryan
The Rad Dad
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Mar 98 09:47:45 -0700
From: James Espey <espey@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: GOOD GOD! Center Console prices!
On 3/10/98 9:00 AM, Dave Price shared these fine thoughts...
>My center console is getting a little worn so I thought I'd look into
>replacing it... Has anyone looked at the prices for those? $700 !! I
>thought my eyes were playing tricks on me... Does anyone have a black one
>in good condition for sale?
>
>Does this look like that difficult (or expensive) of a part to reproduce?
>It's basically just a chunk of vinyl-covered foam with the lighter and
>window/defrost button holes in it... I think something could be
>fabricated for much less than $700 ! Lee?
Dave -
What you are describing and what you quote a price on are two different
things. I went to the DeLorean Motor Company website
(http://www.usadmc.com) just now and looked up part #108239 (8-7-0, Item
#47), the actual armrest part of the console - $91.05 in black or grey.
The $700 part is the huge center console, Part #100683 (8-7-0, Item #40).
When you plug in a full or partial name at the DMC online store, make
sure you're fiding the part you are looking for. This is where it comes
in handy to have a parts manual to look up exact part numbers when
searching the DMC store. Another way is to view/download the parts manual
page (if available) for the part you've located to insure that you are
finding what you've searched for.
James Espey
BTW, as much I know Stephen would like to sell the parts manuals, they
are available from the DMC-News website in PDF format, though I
understand that DMC is working on a revised version of the parts manual.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 09:56:51 -0800
From: Eric Altendorf <altevan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: "Standard" DeLorean upgrades?
Has anyone compiled a list of the recommended upgrades / parts
replacements that would probably be good to perform on any DeLorean?
Issues that come to mind are the radiator (replace with FanZilla) and
electrical relays (get rid of those Lucas things). Does anyone have any
others?
- -e.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 10:17:04 -0800
From: Dave Price <davep@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Cennter Console prices - whew -
>What you are describing and what you quote a price on are two different
>things. I went to the DeLorean Motor Company website
>(http://www.usadmc.com) just now and looked up part #108239 (8-7-0, Item
>#47), the actual armrest part of the console - $91.05 in black or grey.
>The $700 part is the huge center console, Part #100683 (8-7-0, Item #40).
Whew! Thanks for clearing that up! heh.. I thought something must be
wrong... I guess it was too early in the morning for me to read
correctly.. I downloaded the PDF they have online to show the section
(8-7-0), and I thought I re-plugged in the part number, but I guess I was
smokin' crack...
Dave
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 10:22:43 -0800 (PST)
From: thomas reed <reedted@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Overheating problem
Hmmm... Okay, this may sound like a dumb question, but please bear with
me...
I'm not much of a mechanic. How do I purge the system of air when I
refill
the coolant? My car runs pretty cool lately but I do have to add
coolant/water
quite frequently. As far as I can tell, it's coming out of the overflow
tube.
So if it's important to purge the air when adding coolant, I guess I'd
better
know how. Thanks for warning me about this problem...
Ed Reed
VIN #3117
LIC: DLREN
>
>
> I am sure that others will tell you the same and this has been said over
> and over again. Put in the double core or is that triple core radiator,
> Fan Zilla, all new hoses and metal coolant lines, use the correct
> thermostat, and above all, when filling and maintaining the coolant
> fluids, be sure to correctly purge the system of air.
>
> My DMC had a heating problem which after some over heats finally calmed
> down after being purged correctly, there are several places where air
> pockets can live, which will cut the circulation by as much as half.
>
> Thanks
>
> Lee
> VIN#5729
> Lic:81DMC12
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 14:13:31 -0500 (EST)
From: Pete Cowan <peter@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: GOOD GOD! Center Console prices!
On Tue, 10 Mar 1998, Dave Price wrote:
> Does this look like that difficult (or expensive) of a part to reproduce?
> It's basically just a chunk of vinyl-covered foam with the lighter and
> window/defrost button holes in it... I think something could be
> fabricated for much less than $700 ! Lee?
I've actually been working on replacing mine over the winter with wood.
at this point it's pretty much designed, I just need to decide what type
of wood to drop in there. i've been looking at either rosewood or walnut.
I addition to replacing the whole armrest length, I've gotten a chance to
redesign it and make it a bit better (no more putting down the driver-side
window when i shift from first to second). I'll be adding more switches
for additional accessories, a few status leds (fan engage, etc), and have
been looking into putting the ignition there (like the saab 900). I
believe with will greatly improve the interior of the car which I
currently think is somewhat shabby and outdated. I'll have pictures on my
webpage when I do the actual installation. Suggestions welcome.
- --pete #16059
/================+=========================+====================\
|Peter A. Cowan | Office: 607.255.8575 | 165 Hollister Hall |
| SysAdmin | Pager: 607.897.1791 | Cornell University |
|Cadif - Cornell | peter@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx | Ithaca NY 14853 |
\================+=========================+====================/
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Mar 98 12:27:03 -0700
From: James Espey <espey@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Fuel starvation and pickup hoses
The DMC-News guinea pig, #6776, exhibited a minor, but irritating problem
this morning. I was exiting the freeway on a "cloverleaf" type off ramp
at about 55mph when it began to cut out, as if it were not getting any
fuel. I was at about 1/4 tank at the time. I filled up, and did it again
and it was fine. There is also a humming noise from the front of the car,
but not like a bad fuel pump humming noise. I seem to recall at one of
the tech seminars this was described as a pickup hose "grounding" against
the inside of the tank. Anyone else heard of this?
James Espey
Moderator, DeLorean Mailing List
For the latest information on the DeLorean Car Show
this summer in Cincinnati, send email to "show98@xxxxxxxxxxx"
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 15:07:10 -0500
From: Mike Substelny <SUBSTEM@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Bleeding the cooling system (was Re: overheat problem)
Ed Reed asked:
> "How do I purge the system of air when I refill the coolant?"
It is true that air trappend in your DeLorean's coolong system can cause
cooling problems. Most cars do not have this sort of problem, because
the cooling system is laid-out so that air bubbles propogate to the top of
the radiator and exit through the overflow bottle . . . then vacuum
replaces the air with fresh coolant when the engine is shut off.
Not so with the DeLorean, which has the water pump & engine HIGHER
than the radiator.
The exact bleeding procedure was described in an early DeLorean
World and reproduced by the DOA in its "Tech Notes" publication. IMHO
this $15 notebook is the single greatest bang for the buck you can get in
DeLorean maintenance literature. It describes *many* more tips than just
this.
I think the back issues of the DML also discuss this, and I recommend
you do a search. Going from memory, it is something like this:
1) Purchase one of those air pumps used for pressurizing a cold cooling
system. I think Stant makes an inexpensive one that fits the DeLorean. I
have also found mine handy for testing radiator caps on my other cars.
(NOTE: someone once posted a procedure for doing this without an air
pump. It is in the DML back issues. I've never tried it myself).
2) Locate the bleeder valve on top of the water pump. You must
remove the metal throttle shield to see it.
3) Attach a length of plastic siphon hose to the bleeder valve. Run the
hose into a bucket, bottle or other empty coolant container.
4) Remove your coolant filler cap and fit the pump over the mouth.
5) Pump up the pump to X pressure (I don't remember . . . 12 psi? 25?
consult DML back issues or DOA Tech Notes to make sure).
6) Crack open the bleeder valve with a wrench. Coolant will run
through the hose into your bucket until the pressure is relieved.
7) Repeat. Every time the hose burps, you've drained some air.
8) Between pressurizations, occasionally top off the coolant reservoir.
Since it is so high a little air in the reservoir does not hurt, but if
you let it
get dry you might end up pumping air INTO your engine!
That's it, according to my memory. Good luck!
- - Mike Substelny
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 15:16:08 -0600
From: "Steven W. Gilseth" <sgilseth@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Finally got time to work on my DMC
Hello All,
I thought I would share what I discovered while working on my car this =
weekend for a couple of hours. The first thing I did was to fix my =
drooping doors. I had a friend come over and we removed the louver and =
the plastic cover. I had my wife come out and help at that point to =
hold the door up. It made it a lot easier having the third person. I =
applied the pressure to the torsion bar while my friend loosened, moved, =
and tighted the brace. It took two notches on the drivers side (opened =
about 1/3 of the way before) and three notches on the passenger door ( =
didn't open at all). Now they work great. Took about two hours from =
start to finish. Actually, it was about a half an hour to adjust the =
doors and an hour and half to get the louver back on just right.
Next I decided to look at what I thought could be an alternator problem. =
The voltmeter in the car always read below 13 volts. I called DMC and =
talked to Warren who said the problem was probably the fuse box (fuse =
#5). I thought I would check the alternator anyway with an external =
voltmeter. It was working fine. So I decided to clean every fuse and =
the fuse box connectors. Now the dash meter is working great. Keep =
those fuses clean!!!!!!
It was a nice sunny day but cold and decided I might as well take it for ="">
a spin. Now I have discovered some more things to ask about. When the =
car was cold it stalls every time I pull up to a stop sign or slow down =
significantly. After about 15 or 20 minutes the engine must be warm =
enough and it runs fine. If I let the car sit an idle everything is OK. =
However, it doesn't idle very smooth, but seems ok, is that normal??? =
When the car does stall it stars right back up with no problem. Any =
ideas on what I should look at: electrical, fuel system, etc???
Another problem I noticed is that the car doesn't shift very well in the =
cold weather (<40F). When I was driving the car it pretty much would =
stay in second gear and wouldn't go into third (AUTOMATIC). When it =
finally would shift it was very rough. Again after the car warmed up =
everything started working better. I checked the level and everything =
was ok. Any other automatic owners that have had a similar problem????? =
Also, at what speed(or rpm) does the automatic transmission take its =
shifts. When driving around 35 to 40 mph my transmission is constantly =
shifting back and forth between second and third. Is this indicating =
some problem that I haven't yet discovered?????
Well this message is getting pretty long so I will save my other =
questions until the next time I get to work on my car. Only a couple =
months to go for better driving weather.
Thanks All
Steve
*********************************************************************
Steven Gilseth
sgilseth@xxxxxxxx
VIN #5982
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 13:41:59 -0800
From: Eric Altendorf <altevan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Bleeding the cooling system (was Re: overheat problem)
Mike Substelny wrote:
> The exact bleeding procedure was described in an early DeLorean
> World and reproduced by the DOA in its "Tech Notes" publication. IMHO
> this $15 notebook is the single greatest bang for the buck you can get in
> DeLorean maintenance literature. It describes *many* more tips than just
> this.
I notice that DOA sells their "complete" DW back issues (including tech
notes and a bonus 1-year membership) for about $350.
How much technical information can be found in the DW back issues? For
a "first-time DeLorean mechanic", would this be a wise and/or necessary
investment?
- -e.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Mar 98 16:52:44 PST
From: "Brandon S. Moody" <bsmoody@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Fuel starvation and pickup hoses
> The DMC-News guinea pig, #6776, exhibited a minor, but irritating problem
> this morning. I was exiting the freeway on a "cloverleaf" type off ramp
> at about 55mph when it began to cut out, as if it were not getting any
> fuel. I was at about 1/4 tank at the time. I filled up, and did it again
> and it was fine. There is also a humming noise from the front of the car,
> but not like a bad fuel pump humming noise. I seem to recall at one of
> the tech seminars this was described as a pickup hose "grounding" against
> the inside of the tank. Anyone else heard of this?
>
> James Espey
> Moderator, DeLorean Mailing List
> For the latest information on the DeLorean Car Show
> this summer in Cincinnati, send email to "show98@xxxxxxxxxxx"
Make sure you fuel baffle assembly is in place and held down
by the wire brackets. And, the fuel pickup hose is fastened to
the fuel strainer securely.
- -Brandon
- ----------------- End Forwarded Message -----------------
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 17:23:36 EST
From: Kayo Ong <KayoOng@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Overheating problem
Ron,
You should not have any problem with over heating, under normal running
conditons.
If you wish get a cooling fan/AC module unit update. If you wish not
necessary, but it will help, get a large "full metal" radiator with a
larger
capacity. Thse two items are available from P.J. Grady. Ask for Rob
800-350-7429 These two alone will help tremendously in the keeping the
coolant operating temperature down. Have both on my car.
Also make sure your front grill is clear from obstruction. Make sure you
have
correct filled working coolant solution. Make sure you have no air traps
in
your coolant system, bleed the valves for air. Check belt tension. Check
timing. Check fuel/air ratio. Check oil level and oil pressure, make
sure
right grade of oil. Dumb but real. All are contributing factors in
overheating.
Kayo Ong
#05508
Lic. 9D
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 16:42:59 -0600
From: scottmueller@xxxxxxxxx (Scott Mueller)
Subject: Re: DML: Fuel starvation and pickup hoses
James Espey wrote:
>
> The DMC-News guinea pig, #6776, exhibited a minor, but irritating problem
> this morning. I was exiting the freeway on a "cloverleaf" type off ramp
> at about 55mph when it began to cut out, as if it were not getting any
> fuel. I was at about 1/4 tank at the time. I filled up, and did it again
> and it was fine. There is also a humming noise from the front of the car,
> but not like a bad fuel pump humming noise. I seem to recall at one of
> the tech seminars this was described as a pickup hose "grounding" against
> the inside of the tank. Anyone else heard of this?
>
> James Espey
> Moderator, DeLorean Mailing List
> For the latest information on the DeLorean Car Show
> this summer in Cincinnati, send email to "show98@xxxxxxxxxxx"
James, I recall from the tech seminar by PJ Grady in Snowmass, that if
the full return hose is not fastened properly to the tank baffle, you
will starve the engine during cornering. Also, if the pickup is not
fastened to the baffle properly, you will transmitte noise from the fuel
pump via the pickup to the tank bottom (grounding).
Check your fuel pump setup.
Scott Mueller
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 16:39:47 -0600
From: scottmueller@xxxxxxxxx (Scott Mueller)
Subject: Re: DML: Bleeding the cooling system (was Re: overheat problem)
Eric Altendorf wrote:
>
> Mike Substelny wrote:
> > The exact bleeding procedure was described in an early DeLorean
> > World and reproduced by the DOA in its "Tech Notes" publication. IMHO
> > this $15 notebook is the single greatest bang for the buck you can get in
> > DeLorean maintenance literature. It describes *many* more tips than just
> > this.
>
> I notice that DOA sells their "complete" DW back issues (including tech
> notes and a bonus 1-year membership) for about $350.
>
> How much technical information can be found in the DW back issues? For
> a "first-time DeLorean mechanic", would this be a wise and/or necessary
> investment?
>
> -e.
Eric, I am an old mechanic, and I just purchased all of the Delorean
World back issues. I think that they are worth every penny. They are
filled with lots of interesting stories and the tech notes are great. I
enjoyed seeing how the people who have been with the DOA from the
beginning have changed. There also have been many products for our car
on the market in the past. How I wish that I had bought all of these
things over the years. Now if I want them, I must aquire them as a
collector at collector prices. The back issues I think are a good
investment. If I need to learn something about the car, I now have four
sources of info, The Delorean Worlds, DMCNEWS back issues, DMCNEWS list
members, and the parts/service providers.
Scott Mueller
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 9 Mar 1998 21:51:33 EST
From: WINGD 2 <WINGD2@xxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Speedo Trip Meter Reset Arm
During the process of developing the 140MPH replacement faces for
the
Delorean speedo unit ( which are still in process ), I have located
another
replacement piece for the speedo, the Trip Meter Reset Arm. The parts I
have
found are OEM exact replacements. These pieces are the reset arms only
(which
is the piece that breaks ). They do not include the knob, collar or screw
which are attached to the front of the arm. If you still have all the
parts
from when your trip reset broke, this reset arm will allow you to repair
your
speedo to like new.
The installation of this part requires the removal and partial
disassembly of the speedo unit ( not as hard as it sounds ). Normally,
disassembly of the speedo requires re-calibration of the unit by a speedo
shop
upon reassembly, thats where the hassel and cost comes in. We have
developed a
procedure which, when followed, allows replacement of the reset arm
without
requiring re-calibration of the speedo unit. This allows you to remove the
speedo, replace the broken parts and reinstall the unit all at one time,
without having to have the car down for days while the speedo shop does
their
thing. The instructions for this procedure are included with the
replacement
arm.
Cost for the reset arm is $24ea, which includes shipping within the
USA.
Please e-mail me direct with inquires or questions so we don't jam
up
the mailing list. Thanks, Marty
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 17:16:32 -0600
From: "BRUCE BENSON" <delornut@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Re: A/C Facia decal
> From: Dave Price <davep@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: DML: A/C Facia decal
> Date: Tuesday, March 10, 1998 10:20 AM
>
> I just ordered a replacement A/C decal, and besides the trick to keep the
> illumination off unless the lights are on, is there anything that can be
> done to prevent the illumination bulbs from burning the decal? I don't
> want to have to replace the thing every year. Are there different bulbs
> that run cooler, or another modification that can be done? (fiber optics?
> Ideas anyone?
>
> This has to be a common problem.. Especially with the "LOCK DOORS" light.
> how many people always remember to lock their doors before they drive
> off....?
>
> Dave
>
>
I belive the update was discribed in a previous posting to this
newsletter.
It included a 10 ohm resistor in the jumper wire replaceing the relay.
This
reduces the intensity of the bulbs which also reduces the heat behind the
face plate of the climate control panel.
Bruce Benson
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 20:27:15 -0800
From: Nathan Gess <delorean12@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Automatic Door opener
DML,
I have been searching through back issues of DML all night and cannot
find anything on this subject. Does anybody know anything about a
remote control door opening device? Where can I get one? How does it
work? Hom much? ect. ect. Thanks much!
Nathan Gess
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Downs/7770/
delorean12@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 21:31:55 -0500
From: Sean Mullally <mullally@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Engine kills
Ok, here's my problem. When I start my D after it has been sitting for at
least a
day, it will start, but will stall immediatly. On the second or third
try, if I give
it alot of gas for a few seconds after starting it will be ok. It will
idle fine
after that and restart perfectly after being shut off. Has anyone had
simpilar
symptoms, or know what the problem might be?
- -Sean Mullally
vin #3868
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 21:52:55 -0600
From: Duke <duke@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: RE: A/C Facia decal
I just did a replacement this weekend. You'll want to get a Phillips =
12829. These may be hard to find under that part number but your local =
Volkswagon dealer will carry the cross reference bulb. I just had to =
get 4 myself. They cost about .89 cents each. Also, if you look in the =
parts manual, you'll see a picture of it. Its in Section 7 Sub 3 Group =
0 part number 49. Yours probably looks like part number 48. All of my =
bulbs were part number 49 and they illuminate the panel perfectly.
Hope this helps,
Duke
www.geocities.com/motorcity/8952/delorean.html
- -----Original Message-----
From: Dave Price [SMTP:davep@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Tuesday, March 10, 1998 10:21 AM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: DML: A/C Facia decal
>I just ordered a replacement A/C decal, and besides the trick to keep =
>the
>illumination off unless the lights are on, is there anything that can be
>done to prevent the illumination bulbs from burning the decal? I don't
>want to have to replace the thing every year.. Are there different =
>bulbs
>that run cooler, or another modification that can be done? (fiber =
>optics?)
> Ideas anyone?
>
>This has to be a common problem.. Especially with the "LOCK DOORS" =
>light..
>how many people always remember to lock their doors before they drive=20
>off....?
>
>Dave
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 22:03:11 -0600
From: Duke <duke@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: RE: Bleeding the cooling system (was Re: overheat problem)
Just wanted to do a follow up. The cooling system holds 15 PSI. Also, =
if your checking for leaks, the cooling system should hold 15 PSI for 15 =
minutes.
Thanks,
Duke=20
>
>5) Pump up the pump to X pressure (I don't remember . . . 12 psi? 25?
>consult DML back issues or DOA Tech Notes to make sure).
>
>
>- Mike Substelny
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 22:12:12 -0600
From: Duke <duke@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: RE: Finally got time to work on my DMC
Steven,
The symptoms you're having sound like a faulty automatic computer =
governor. I have an automatic as well and have had the same problems =
before. When I replaced my computer governor, it worked just fine. =
However, this is a somewhat expensive part. You may want to check with =
a trans shop first. Also, check the running of the wires to your =
computer governor and see if it has touched any part of the exhaust =
system. If so, then you definitely have a bad governor. If you do =
need another governor, make sure to watch out for the exhaust system.
Hope this helps,
Duke
www.geocities.com/motorcity/8952/delorean.html
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 22:30:51 -0600
From: James Nichols <jhnichols@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [Fwd: DML: Bleeding the cooling system
> Ed Reed asked:
>
> > "How do I purge the system of air when I refill the coolant?"
The only time that I had an overheating problem was after I changed the
thermostat and didn't bleed the air out of the system.
I don't have an eight step proceedure but simply filled the system and
opened the bleed valve on the bell housing above the thermostat until
green fluid, (get the MOP), began to gravity flow from the bleed valve,
and refilled the system. After driving the car until it was warmed up,
I let it cool off, then repeated the bleed proceedure and got no air the
second time. I didn't have to remove anything to get to the bleed
valve. You can easily wash the antifreeze off the back of the engine.
Jim #6884
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 19:01:15 -1000
From: "Thomas Smithson" <tsassoc@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Re: Overheating problem
Ronald, contact Arnie Brandon, president of the Pacific Northwest DeLorean
Club, (425) 746-6132, about his by-pass system that will forever make your
cooling system immune to getting air in the lines which makes your car run
hot or overheat. I was having that problem here in Hawaii but no more
since
I invested 15 minutes to install it. Good luck and Aloha!
Thom Smithson
VIN #3089
PNDC, DOA, DMC
- ----------
> From: Ronald Pohala <rpohala@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: DML: Overheating problem
> Date: Monday, March 09, 1998 11:32 AM
>
> I am replacing the engine, water pump and other parts not related, but
> overheating killed the last engine. Any advice on keeping the new engine
> from having a short life.
>
> Any comments that could add to improvements that handles overheating
> problems will surely be appreciated.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Ron
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 22:22:09 -0600
From: thgraham@xxxxxxxx (Travis Graham)
Subject: DML: RE: idle problem SOLUTION
Steven and everyone who is interested,
I had this exact same problem and strangely, got this problem fixed THIS =
DAY!!! I'm the farthest from a mechanic, so I apologize for the =
vagueness of this response, but perhaps it will point you in the right =
direction (***I'll be happy to get real details from my mechanic if =
anyone is interested***).
When I started the car in the mornings or after it sat for several =
hours, the car refused to start and ran TERRIBLE until the engine was =
warmed up a little. The engine ran very rough and shook the whole car =
until it was warm. Also, when cold, it idled at around 600, but after =
warming it idled at above 1000.
The solution was in the electrical system. Some of the fuse containers =
had apparently melted! My mechanic simply bypassed the fuse box for ="">
that circuit and added a new wire and fuse. Looking at the invoice, it =
states: "Engine control fuse melted in fuse box." I know that they =
repaired the "Idle wiring harness" and "bypassed the main fuse-box fuse" =
and added the new fuse here. He said that after adding this new fuse, =
all of the problems went away and they were able to adjust the fuel mix =
properly without the computer going nuts. I picked it up today and I =
have never had my De Lorean run so good!! It may just be as simple as a =
bad fuel mix, I've had that problem and similar symptoms before too.
Good luck!
Travis Graham
=20
- -----Original Message-----
From: Steven W. Gilseth [SMTP:sgilseth@xxxxxxxx]
Sent: Tuesday, March 10, 1998 3:16 PM
To: 'DMC News'
Subject: DML: Finally got time to work on my DMC
>...When the car was cold it stalls every time I pull up to a stop sign =
>or slow down significantly. After about 15 or 20 minutes the engine =
>must be warm enough and it runs fine. If I let the car sit an idle =
>everything is OK. However, it doesn't idle very smooth, but seems ok, =
>is that normal??? When the car does stall it stars right back up with =
>no problem. Any ideas on what I should look at: electrical, fuel =
>system, etc???
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 06:51:49 -0800
From: "lseiler@xxxxxxxxxxxx" <lseiler@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Where are my Keys?
>Where are my Keys Lee?
oops!
I must apologize to the few of you who are still waiting for DMC Logo
Keys. The lady in shipping who take car of that went on vacation, and
while she was gone here temp just put the keys and orders away because
she did not know what to do with them. When our regular employee
returned, not seeing any key related stuff around never gave it another
thought.
I have no excuse for the delay, the above is the reason, I explain so
that no one feels his or her order was being put off and again I
apologize for the delay. my assistant and I will get the finished keys
shipped in the next day or so, and I will finish the un-made keys to day,
with the intent of having the list cleaned up and filled by Friday.
The keys are still available and will remain available for the
foreseeable future.
Thanks
Lee
VIN#5729
Lic:81DMC12
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 23:44:32 -0800
From: "lseiler@xxxxxxxxxxxx" <lseiler@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Introduction/Question...
At 04:18 PM 3/9/98 -0500, you wrote:
>I have been lurking for a little while, and I finally have a chance to =
>read up on all of the old issues (didn't want to clutter up the lines =
>asking questions that have already been answered). Anyways, I am glad =
>this group exists, without it I would have never known where to find =
>information about the DeLorean.
>
>Question: Does anyone drive their DeLorean on a daily basis as their =
>only car? I was wondering what if Insurance companies thought of this? =
>(I know, Insurance has been discussed before, but not this aspect).
>
>Eric Pullen
reply:
Yes many of us do, I use it to both go to my office and to run around
town. If you go back threw the news letter and this area you will find
several threads talking about insurance cost.
In my case the DMC is actually the cheapest to insure.
Thanks
Lee
VIN#5729
Lic:81DMC12
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 18:53:07 -0800
From: "lseiler@xxxxxxxxxxxx" <lseiler@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Stainless finish
Another word on the stainless finish and keeping it brite' and clean.
I commented on stripping the paint and refinishing the stainless but
forgot half the equation so to speak.
To clean and reinforce the burnish pattern, you can do this by hand. All
you need is a 2"X5"X8" block of wood, 3M Scotch-Brite Blending hand pads
(#7446)/61-5001-2322-1 ($1.79 per pad or $15 per box of 10ea) and 3M
Stainless Steel cleaner & polish (no product or catalogue #)
any one who needs a source on this stuff send me e-mail.
Thanks
Lee
VIN#5729
Lic:81DMC12
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 23:53:13 -0800
From: "lseiler@xxxxxxxxxxxx" <lseiler@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: A/C Facia decal
At 08:20 AM 3/10/98 -0800, you wrote:
>I just ordered a replacement A/C decal, and besides the trick to keep the
>illumination off unless the lights are on, is there anything that can be
>done to prevent the illumination bulbs from burning the decal? I don't
>want to have to replace the thing every year.. Are there different bulbs
>that run cooler, or another modification that can be done? (fiber optics?)
> Ideas anyone?
>
>This has to be a common problem.. Especially with the "LOCK DOORS" light..
>how many people always remember to lock their doors before they drive
>off....?
>
>Dave
>
reply:
I missed the hot light fix? could you point me to it?
Thanks
Lee
VIN#5729
Lic:81DMC12
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 18:52:21 EST
From: Kayo Ong <KayoOng@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Introduction/Question...
Dear Eric Pullen,
I driven my car since ownership, for the last 23 months. I have put on
over
23,000 miles. I use my car every day as a "real world" car. My car is
used
for work and pleasure since the situation is both the same for me.
As far the insurance company goes, it does not matter unless you brought
"special insurance", such as collectors, fleet, historical, or for
attending
meetings, etc. Those are special priced for those occassions with
restrictions on usage.
The standard coverage premiums are high enough to cover all "usage" with
no
restrictions.
Kayo Ong
#05508
Lic. 9D
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 20:02:20 -0800
From: Nathan Gess <delorean12@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: DeLoreans in the Latrobe PA area
Dear DML,
I was curious to know if there are any DMC owners in the Latrobe (40
miles east of Pittsburgh) PA area, that would be willing to give a
future owner a tour of the car. I want to take some pictures and see if
I actually fit in it (6'4"). I love this car very much, but am yet to
see one in person. Thanks much!
Nathan Gess
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Downs/7770/
delorean12@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 18:53:13 -0600
From: "Jameel Ahed" <ahed@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: more new pictures
Dear DML,
I have put up some more pictures of me doing major surgery!!!
http://www.students.uiuc.edu/~ahed/surgery.html
Beware of the Vulgarity!!! My site is (PG)
It is a bit slow right now, I will be making thumbnail shots so you can
load
each individual picture. (but later) Oh and I will also be explaining
each
picture.
Jameel Ahed CEO of CyberTECH Industries
Consultant for VOITECH Computer Solutions
HOMEPAGE: http://www.students.uiuc.edu/~ahed/
VOITECH: http://www.voitech.com
EMAIL: mailto:ahed@xxxxxxxx
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 11 Mar 98 06:59:03 -0700
From: James Espey <espey@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Automatic Door opener
On 3/10/98 9:27 PM, Nathan Gess shared these fine thoughts...
> I have been searching through back issues of DML all night and cannot
>find anything on this subject. Does anybody know anything about a
>remote control door opening device? Where can I get one? How does it
>work? Hom much? ect. ect. Thanks much!
Darryl Tinnerstet, owner of Specialty Automotive in Olympia Washington
put together a procedures and parts list/sources for a remote door
opener. It will be featured in a future issue of the 'zine as we install
the system on #6776. In the meantime, you can contact him for more
details. He is not online, but his address/phone is in the back issues
(search under "Tinnerstet" or "Specialty Automotive").
James
------------------------------
End of dmcnews-digest V3 #339
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