dmcnews-digest Tuesday, February 17 1998 Volume 03 : Number 331
In this issue:
Re: DML: interior room
DML: Hot Start solution?
Re: DML: Re: Algae problem
DML: Hot Start Relay?
Re: DML: 2nd Door Switch
DML: (Facia) Wrinkle Prevention?
DML: BTTF
Re: DML: (Facia) Wrinkle Prevention?
DML: Steering Rack/Grease Fittings
DML: Frame Paint Touch-up
Re: DML: Stainlness Steel
DML: Re: Hot Start solution?
DML: Re: Hot Start Relay?
DML: Re: Algae problem
DML: Oddball DMC parts for sale
DML: "The Wedding Singer" movie review
DML: De Lorean Motor Club?
DML: gas flap on hood
Fwd: DML:Difference of years etc.
Re: DML: Frame Paint Touch-up
Re: DML: gas flap on hood
Re: DML: "The Wedding Singer" movie review
Re: DML: gas flap on hood
DML: Knuts News Letter
DML: Atlanta Meeting
DML: How To Remove Lower door Panel?
DML: Where did I see that cross matching list
DML: BOOK
DML: Grand Delusions book...
DML: Re: How To Remove Lower door Panel?
Re: DML: Where did I see that cross matching list
DML: Delorean Website
Re: DML: Re: Algae problem
DML: DeLorean For Sale
DML: Neglected cars
DML: Updates
Re: DML: Neglected cars
Re: DML: DeLorean For Sale
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Fri, 13 Feb 1998 12:00:19 -0800
From: "lseiler@xxxxxxxxxxxx" <lseiler@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: interior room
At 10:23 AM 2/13/98 -0500, you wrote:
>Is the interior of the D roomy enough for big people? I am looking to buy
>a D, not for primary use, but just for weekend drives, and to fix up. I
>am 6'6", 270. Is there enough headroom for someone of my height. Also I
>see D's w/ 20k +- miles and they seem to be reasonibly cheap ($13,000) Is
>this a good deal or should I stay away. I do not want to spend more than
>$15k. What kind of condition should I expect? I do not expect a perfect
>car, but I do want one that would not have to have much repair work.
>AP
>
Reply:
Hi AP,
The DMC is great for us BIG Men, ^'2 to 250# and you will fit like a
glove. It may look cramped in a DMC but once in...well I would rather sit
in my DMC than go in the house and watch TV.
Once a long time ago in a place Far away I flew Combat in Nam, Choppers.
I always loved being in a very compact space with lots of toys to play
with....WINK<< When I drive My DMC, it's very much the same, its close
and very comfortable, every control is easily touched, and once you get
the seats adjusted, it's not just fun to drive, it's a passions of
passionss'.
Once you drive one you won't want to drive any thing else, think I kid
you? well with all the rain and snow this year there are several thousand
DMC owners going stir crazy!....me for one! smile'
Best of Luck.
Thanks
Lee
VIN#5729
Lic:81DMC12
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 14 Feb 1998 10:28:35 -0500
From: Sean Mullally <mullally@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Hot Start solution?
Like many others I'm sure I've had occasional "hot start" problems. From
the previous discussions I gather this is likely a fuel system problem,
probably the fuel accumulator. I'm going to get that looked at by a
mechanic, but in the mean time, if I am stuck somewhere, is there
anything I can do to get the car to start quick, without waiting a
couple of hours? Something like "quickstart" I can spray into the
engine? I saw the mechanic do this to the car once before I bought it to
solve a cold start problem.
- -sean
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 14 Feb 1998 09:01:46 -0800
From: "lseiler@xxxxxxxxxxxx" <lseiler@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Re: Algae problem
At 03:16 PM 2/13/98 -0500, you wrote:
>Mike and/or list members,
>
>Mike Substelny on 2/13/98 10:42 AM said:
>> If the algae remains you might try a mild, solvent
>> like diluted rubbing alcohol (don't spill on
>> non-stainless parts).
>
>Typically if this happens from either alcohol or a solvent
>like acetone getting on plastic, it will dis-color it --
>lightening where contact was made.
>
>My question is if anyone has some industry secrets or
>technique to reverse the process or otherwise fix it?
>Any plastic experts out there? *grin*
>
>Thanks!
>//Rob//
>rob.corkum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>vin 1723, DOA, DMCC
>
reply:
Hi,
yes if you want to use such an agent, first apply a layer of "Elmer's
white glue (for wood) to the plastic. when the glue is transparent, but
before it begins to flake off use the solvent. as an extra precaution put
masking tape on top of the glue and rub firmly.
There is a better way to clean the stainless however.
It takes a lot of elbow grease but will do the trick and is safe.
You need a "Extra corse Scotch bright pad 8X8 " X-14 Mildew Stain
remover. A 2x6 wood block and a can of Super Hi-lite Stainless steel
cleaner & polish.
1. Using low tack painters masking tape, mask off all non stainless
areas.
2. Using the X-14 and a water-damp cloth wet down an area about 2 square
feet. Rub in X-14 then scrub with scotch brite using wood block as a
means of distributing the pressure. Clean up the residue with absorbent
cloth. repeat until no obvious residue remains.
3, spray on stainless cleaner and repeat the scrubbing action using the
scotch brite pad and wood block. As you work the residue will turn black,
this means the stainless cleaner is doing its job.
4. wipe up the stainless cleaner residue using a clean absorbent cloth
and polish up the area with a clean cloth.
WARNING> when using the scotch pad follow the burnish pattern on the
DMC. scrub with long straight passes and pick up pad at the end of each
rub, Do not drag the pad across the grain at any time and ALLWAYS PICK UP
PAD AT THE END OF EACH PASS.
note: the masking tape is to prevent putting scratches in the black and
gray plastic parts. Do not use scotch brite on the windshield or windows!
you will scratch them if you do.
Thanks
Lee
VIN#5729
Lic:81DMC12
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 14 Feb 1998 13:40:29 -0800
From: "Ryan Bennett" <rpbennet@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Hot Start Relay?
Public thanks to Travis Graham for answering my door switch question. Got
another conundrum:
In my relay access, there is what looks like a relay outlet hanging off
the
wiring harness in the rear of the compartment with no relay connected to
it. I have tried to locate it on the wiring diagram, and the only thing
that it seems it could be is a "hot start relay", item 107. Maybe a
coincidence, but the car has trouble starting when hot. Also, there are
only 3 wires going to the connector, and looking at the schematic I can't
see how the relay could ever be triggered, as only one side of the coil
gets connected to anything. Do you know anything about this? If not, let
me
know so I can post it to the list.
Thanks again very much.
- -Ryan Bennett
VIN# 1085
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 14 Feb 1998 19:32:14 EST
From: KayoOng@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: DML: 2nd Door Switch
Yes, that is exactly what it is for, that pesky noise!
Kayo Ong
#05508
kayoong@xxxxxxx
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 15 Feb 98 01:36:59 -0000
From: David Swingle <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: (Facia) Wrinkle Prevention?
I'm getting close to finishing the re-assembly of my winter project. I'll
post separately on other topics, this one concerns the front facia. I am
about to install the new front facia. In the interest of not having the
new one wrinkle above the headlights I looked at the design of the facia
support. It occurred to me that it might be a good idea to epoxy some
16-ga steel plates to the inside of the facia just above and below the
headlights. There is absolutely no reinforcement in these areas, in fact
the factory appears to have cut away the original fiberglass
reinforcement to clear the head brackets.
Has anyone tried anything like this, and would there be any drawbacks?
The plate would probably rest right on the headlight assembly (instead of
the facia itself), so rattles could be an issue. I tested epoxying a
small steel plate to the inside of the old facia, and it seems to hold
very well and really stiffens things up.
Dave Swingle
81 VIN 5429
DOA, DMC, DMC(Midwest)
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 15 Feb 1998 08:48:20 -0500
From: Yugoman@xxxxxxxxx (Ralph Isenberg)
Subject: DML: BTTF
Just saw a preview on TNT, they're showing Back To The Future tonight at
8 (easterntime). If anyone like me wants to see our favorite car for the
umpteenth time!
Ralph Isenberg (Yugoman@xxxxxxxxx)
1977 Pacer
1975 Vega (for sale-trophy winner!)
1990 Yugo Convertible (rare- also for sale)
2 Corvairs ready to restore, Comet, VW, 1988 Yugo GVX, too many
carburetors to feed, somebody adopt one!
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 15 Feb 1998 12:21:05 EST
From: KKoncelik@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: DML: (Facia) Wrinkle Prevention?
That is a common way to repair the facia but I would caution you against
using
just plain sheet metal. Use a heavy galvanized or look at aluminum so you
don't have rust seeping down over the next few years. Also use a good
epoxy.
For the few extra dollars you can get epoxies that are more crack
resistant
and that react to thermal expansion better than the Wallmart versions.
Rudolph Brothers in columbus can help you. I don't know the number off
hand
but information can get you the number.
Ken
check it out click <A HREF="" href="http://idt.net/~dmc1219">http://idt.net/~dmc1219">here</A>
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 15 Feb 98 12:27:53 -0000
From: David Swingle <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Steering Rack/Grease Fittings
As part of my reconstruction project, I removed the steering rack from
the car. I had posted to the DML a while back concerning some stickiness
that I had felt in the steering after it sits for more than a few
minutes. I received some cautions about opening up the pinion retainer,
but not much to go on. I went ahead and pulled off the rack boots,
drained the rack, and carefully disassembled the pinion retainer and
preload assembly. Don't be tempted to do this ON the car! Inside the
pinion housing there are 28 LOOSE ball bearings that roll all over the
place when you pull out the pinion. Noting no signs of wear, I just put
everything back together, replaced the rack boots with new ones (one had
a hole in it, one didn't) and put fresh gear lube in it. The friction
that I had been feeling was in the sleeve bearings that support the rack
itself, not in the pinion bearings or gearing. A general cleanup and oil
change seems to have solved the stickiness problem.
At the same time, inspection of the tie rod ends revealed that, although
in decent shape they could use re-lubing since the boots had long ago
deteriorated. The original sealed design does not allow for this. I was
able to drill (careful - not too deep) and tap the original tie rod ends
for 1/4-28 grease zerks, found a nice rubber replacement for the
"plastic" boots orignally used.
Dave Swingle
81 VIN 5429
DOA, DMC, DMC(Midwest)
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 15 Feb 98 12:49:59 -0000
From: David Swingle <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Frame Paint Touch-up
Another answer to one of my old questions - Is there a commercial paint
that comes close to matching the epoxy color of the frame? Well, as usual
on the DeLorean, its not a simple answer.
I bought some of the original DMC repair epoxy (expensive!) that is still
available from the vendors. It is still quite useable, but doesn't really
color match the original epoxy of the frame very well. It is also very
glossy. It is also impossible to apply it and obtain the smooth finish of
the original since it is too thick to spray and doesn't brush on very
smoothly. The color mismatch could be due to weathering of the epoxy. The
factory finish is a liquified powder coat process where the repair epoxy
is a two-part mix. Since it is the frame, after all, they may not have
tried very hard for an exact match. Assuming that this is as good as it
gets, with some experimentation I determined that Rustoleum "Dark Machine
Grey" matches the factory repair epoxy very well. It ends up a little
darker and shinier than a weathered frame.
For my frame rust repair, I cleaned it up a good as I could (see January
posting), treated and coated the bare metal with Wurth Rustguard (black
only), and the covered the Wurth with the Rustoleum wherever it was
visible.
Dave Swingle
81 VIN 5429
DOA, DMC, DMC(Midwest)
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 15 Feb 1998 13:58:55 -0500
From: Sean Mullally <mullally@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Stainlness Steel
Good point Bill. But, personally speaking, the only reason I ever
look to replace my car is degragation of both the appearance and the
reliability of the vehicle. Both of these are areas that I feel the
auto companies could improve on easily if they wanted to. A good
example, I think, is Saturn's use of rust-free plastic body panels.
They have managed to do this and still remain price competitive with
cars like Camry and Taurus.
One of the ideals John DeLorean had in mind with his company was that
people should think of buying a car more like buying a house:
something you will use for a long time and won't turn to junk in a few
years. He openly criticised the big three for constantly changing the
styling of their new cars to make old ones look outdated. I couldn't
agree with him more. I know I don't like getting a new car every three
years, and I don't think the average consumer does either.
- -sean
>I beg to differ with Sean, but I believe that maintenance and reliability
>concerns, new safety and comfort features, and styling influence replacement
>of an automobile far more than body panel deterioration. The use of steel
>for the majority of body panels is primarily a matter of economics and
>performance. The market place (typical consumer) does not assign
>sufficient value-added to offset the additional costs of using alternative
>materials in most cars. Cars such as the Corvette are successful because of
>their market niche. However, Camry or Taurus wouldn't stand a competitive
>chance with a more expensive body.
>
>Bill
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 15 Feb 1998 12:56:31 -0600
From: "BRUCE BENSON" <delornut@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Re: Hot Start solution?
>
> Like many others I'm sure I've had occasional "hot start" problems. From
> the previous discussions I gather this is likely a fuel system problem,
> probably the fuel accumulator. I'm going to get that looked at by a
> mechanic, but in the mean time, if I am stuck somewhere, is there
> anything I can do to get the car to start quick, without waiting a
> couple of hours? Something like "quickstart" I can spray into the
> engine? I saw the mechanic do this to the car once before I bought it to
> solve a cold start problem.
>
> -sean
On the drivers side of the engine there are two prominent electrical
plugs.
A grey one going to the control pressure regulator and a blue one going to
the cold start valve. Unplug them both and then plug the grey plug to the
cold start valve and leave the blue one unplugged. This tricks the cold
start valve into firing and gives an extra shot of fuel to the engine. A
word of caution: don't crank the engine more than about 30 seconds or
you'll flood it and after the engine starts, rev it up a few seconds and
turn it off. Replace the plugs to their original plug-ins and the engine
should re-start. If this works the problem is more than likley the
accumulator. If this doesn't get a baulky hot engine started, the problem
may be ignition related.
Bruce Benson
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 15 Feb 1998 13:05:42 -0600
From: "BRUCE BENSON" <delornut@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Re: Hot Start Relay?
> Public thanks to Travis Graham for answering my door switch question. Got
> another conundrum:
>
> In my relay access, there is what looks like a relay outlet hanging off the
> wiring harness in the rear of the compartment with no relay connected to
> it. I have tried to locate it on the wiring diagram, and the only thing
> that it seems it could be is a "hot start relay", item 107. Maybe a
> coincidence, but the car has trouble starting when hot. Also, there are
> only 3 wires going to the connector, and looking at the schematic I can't
> see how the relay could ever be triggered, as only one side of the coil
> gets connected to anything. Do you know anything about this? If not, let
> me know so I can post it to the list.
>
> Thanks again very much.
>
> -Ryan Bennett
> VIN# 1085
Sender: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Precedence: list
Reply-To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
The earlier cars used Lotus wiring looms which had miles of extra wires
and
connection that weren't used in the DeLorean wiring scheme. Later
models, I'm not sure at which vin #, cleaned things up and eliminated much
of the un-used wiring.
Bruce Benson
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 15 Feb 1998 14:42:21 +0000
From: James Nichols <jhnichols@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Re: Algae problem
I keep my Delorean in the garage so haven't had an algae problem.
I do have a couple boats, not in the boathouse that regularly grow algae
on the north side (like moss on trees), during the wet season.
No one has mentioned using the old standard for cleaning algae off
boats, good old chlorine bleach. Diluted, with about half a cup or so in
a bucket of water, it doesn't touch fiberglass, stainless, chrome plate,
aluminum, or wood. Brush it on with a short handled brush, wait a few
minutes and hose the algae off.
Jim #6884
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 15 Feb 98 13:59:36 -0700
From: James Espey <espey@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Oddball DMC parts for sale
I recently bought some DeLorean stuff and have a bunch of the "DeLorean"
hood emblems (not the DMC grille emblem) that I do not need. $20 a piece
includes priority mail shipping in the US. I have a couple of extra cargo
nets, too, for $75 a piece, including shipping. Email me if interested.
James
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 15 Feb 98 14:26:06 -0700
From: James Espey <espey@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: "The Wedding Singer" movie review
A couple of us got together Friday night and caught "The Wedding Singer"
at the local 24-plex in Scottsdale. Anyone who was disappointed by Adam
Sandler in "Happy Gilmore" or that "Billy Madison" will be pleasantly
surprised. This movie is not that bad, IMO. We didn't go to see the
story, as much as we went to see the DeLorean in the movie. $6.50 for
about 10 seconds was what it worked out. In the movie, the car is driven
by Drew Barrymore's fiancee, who sells junk, er, "high yield" bonds. The
car in the movie is a late 81 (lines on hood, no flap), gray interior but
little else can be determined from the brief showing the car has in the
movie. There is no DMC logo on the grille, and the headliners are a bit
on the saggy side. Surprising since the movie is set in 1985, I didn't
think they would have started to sag that early. The car also has the
wide black optional stripe, and slightly weak door struts. We stayed for
the credits and there was no mention where the DeLorean came from (long
shot, but worth an extra few minutes in the theatre) There are no cocaine
jokes, or BTTF references, so we can all breath a sigh of relief that
there will be no new generation of bad jokes forming.
As a side note, the audience (at the show we went to, mostly teens)
immediately recognized the car as a DeLorean.
Catch a matinee or wait for it to hit video if you're not a big Adam
Sandler fan, or think 6.50 is too much for a movie.
James Espey
Moderator, DeLorean Mailing List
For the latest information about the DeLorean Show
this summer in Cincinnati, send email to "show98@xxxxxxxxxxx"
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 15 Feb 1998 14:29:01 -0800
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayf@xxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: De Lorean Motor Club?
I too am interested in what happened to the NEW De Lorean Motor Club. I
paid the dues of $40 and my check was cashed by Robin McNeill (sp) on 27
July 1997. I also received soon after that two membership cards for
myself
and wife numbered 0065 and signed by K. Myhre (sp) who was a former
officer
in the DOA.
It would seem that almost seven months would be long enough to get the
organization started and at least put out a newsletter if there are
problems.
I too wondered if they had lost my name possibly, but apparently many
others
are in the same boat.
Does anyone have any info?
Murray
Vin#5962
License DMC-XII
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 15 Feb 1998 19:49:07 -0500
From: John Murray <jwmurray@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: gas flap on hood
Anyone know how many where produced with the gas flap. Up to what VIN#.
I take the car to cruise nights every fri and sat night and get asked
about the flap. I was curious how many were made like mine. Id like to
say that my car is 'one of.....' out of the 8583. Thanks.
Having nothing but fun with it!
John Murray
VIN# 2390
FL. Lic. 81DMC12
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 15 Feb 98 18:11:45 -0700
From: James Espey <espey@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Fwd: DML:Difference of years etc.
- ---------------- Begin Forwarded Message ----------------
Date: 02/15 4:45 PM
Received: 02/15 5:04 PM
From: Masayuki Shibata, msa-at@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
To: James Espey, espey@xxxxxxxxxxx
Hello DMLers,
I am a DMC enthusiast in Japan. I am 18 but I have not had driver's
license yet (but someday...). I have some questions about DMC-12.
One of the question is the difference of years. I have seen about hood
difference in the site of DeLorean Owners Association (LEGEND -
Difference).
If there are any differences, please tell me.
Another question is a importing problem. I live in Japan and there are
a
few DMCs in this country. Dealer of DMC exists in Kanagawa prefecture
(near
Tokyo), but they sell DMC for 3,500,000 yen (about $28,500). I don't know
the its specs except that it has Stainless Steel body and 5-speed manual
transmission, early '81. I want to know is how much money cost to import
(more than $28.5k). I want to buy a DeLorean someday, so I am interested
in
this problem.
Thank you for answering my question.
Masayuki Shibata
in Matto,Ishikawa,JAPAN
msa-at@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
- -------------
I'm sorry about send this mail to your address. I cannot know where and
how I send this mail to contribute.
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 15 Feb 1998 20:50:11 EST
From: KKoncelik@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: DML: Frame Paint Touch-up
GO to any good automotive paint store and they can match it with paint.
Either epoxy paint, enamels, acrylics etc. the key is to put something
on it
that will work. There is also epoxy kits available (aftermarket) that are
fresh I believe Rob Grady is selling one. Matching is no problem what
do you
want the outcome to be. For show or driving, california or the rust
belt.
good luck
Ken
For the latest information about the DeLorean Show
this summer in Cincinnati, send email to "show98@xxxxxxxxxxx"
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 15 Feb 1998 22:25:58 EST
From: NJP548@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: DML: gas flap on hood
Well...if this helps any my DeLorean is VIN#1852 and it has the Gas Flap,
but
something made a dent in it and I want to make my car completely original
so I
am looking to buy a hood with the flap. If anyone has one for sale
please E-
mail me directly so we don't use the DML as a bulletin board. Thanks.
Later,
Nick
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 15 Feb 1998 22:32:15 -0500
From: steve r <stephenr@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: "The Wedding Singer" movie review
I must agree, the movie had a good story and i really did enjoy the short
time while they showed the delorean. Some friends of mine said they heard
people behind them sayin bad stuff about the car, but i really did enjoy
the
time that they showed the car. By the way, i stayed during the credits
alo
and there was no mentioning of where the car came from. I thought someone
might have leased the car to them for the movie, but i gues we will never
know. Don't try to stay durring the credits though, because the people
working at the place i went to got pretty mad because i wanted to stay for
the credits. They kicked me out at the very end of the credits. There
was
one more thing i was looking for in the credits that some of you may be
looking for too. The song being played during the credits is mentioned
as a
Presidents of the USA song. I thought it was pretty cool that they have
been
around since 85. Well all i can say if any of you would enjoy a great
movie
about the 80's including a flick of a DeLorean "The Wedding Singer" will
be
the movie for you.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Feb 1998 08:57:35 -0500
From: Yugoman@xxxxxxxxx (Ralph Isenberg)
Subject: Re: DML: gas flap on hood
Mine's #2423 and has the gas flap. Black interior, auto. My flap came
off though,(stainless part from frame).Looks like the epoxy or whatever
they stuck it on with lost its strength.Any suggestion how to re-attach
it? I'd really hate to lose it on the highway. Thanks!
Ralph Isenberg (Yugoman@xxxxxxxxx)
1977 Pacer
1975 Vega (for sale-trophy winner!)
1990 Yugo Convertible (rare- also for sale)
2 Corvairs ready to restore, Comet, VW, 1988 Yugo GVX, too many
carburetors to feed, somebody adopt one!
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Feb 1998 08:40:49 -0600
From: scottmueller@xxxxxxxxx (Scott Mueller)
Subject: DML: Knuts News Letter
I just finished reading Knuts latest Newsletter. As always, Knut and
his contributors have done a great job. If you have not seen Knuts
work, you need to go to the FAQ, Oregon Club Newsletters, and download
them. What a resource. Thank you James for providing the space on the
Digest web page.
Scott Mueller
1981, vin 2981
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Feb 1998 08:44:14 -0600
From: scottmueller@xxxxxxxxx (Scott Mueller)
Subject: DML: Atlanta Meeting
Did anyone on the list attend the meeting in Atlanta. I was unable to
drive up from Mobile for it.
If you attended, how about sending a summary in to the newsletter. I am
curious as to what you guys do. Perhapes some day I will be able to
make the trip, assuming that it every stops raining in Alabama long
enough. My car has been reliable, but I still do not like taking it out
in wet weather, I guess I'm to lazy to spend the time to clean it up.
Scott Mueller
1981, vin 2981
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Feb 1998 07:51:41 -0800
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayf@xxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: How To Remove Lower door Panel?
My first problem in eleven months of ownership!! Drivers window went
bad.
It is stuck half way up/down and I have covered it with clear plastic for
the winter! Spring is coming!
I can see that the cable is out of its tubular track. Also I cannot "pry"
the window up any farther and suspect maybe a side track problem. I
figured
out how to easily take the upper inside upholstered panel off, but cannot
get the lower one, so far.
I have instructions and some pictorials of this operation from a De Lorean
World magazine....they are too dark to see much and not detailed.
I have read that I should take off the "escutcheon" on the drivers arm
rest
first to get at two bolts to release the door handle and then the panel
will
come off easily.
My other (passengers side) door escutcheon had a broken "tab" on it and
came off easily so I can see how they are made.
Can someone tell me what tool works best and how to go about releasing
that
escutcheon. I can see what NEEDS to happen and have tried to wedge
several
tools along side it to release it but I am pretty cautious and so far
cannot
get it to come loose.
AFTER that is off, I can see (on the other side actually) that the two
bolts
down in there are vertical and MINE are a 5mm Allen type. A wrench will
not go straight down and looks like would require some kind of flex
fitting
to get it snug into it. Any ideas there?
Next question, is HOW to secure that 5mm Allen bolt so it will not fall
down
into the guts, that would not really matter that much as it will be opened
up and I could find it at that itme...however, how difficult is it to line
those holes back up and put it back in place when you are ready to button
it
up. No way to put your hand down there. Is there any kind of holder or
something like bubble gum or putty etc?
Incidentally, the window motor runs fine in either direction but there is
no
"feeling" in the shaft at all when I run the motor, like it is not
connected
to the gearing or whatever is down there.
Once I get it opened up I think I can tell more what is wrong.
Also, does the side mirrors control panel come out with the escutcheon, or
does it stay in place?
Can someone give me clear 1 2 3 instructions?
Many thanks.
Murray murrayf@xxxxxxx
Vin#5962
Lic: DMC-XII
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Feb 1998 11:01:11 -0500
From: Ron Pohala <rpohala@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Where did I see that cross matching list
Somewhere in one of the webpages I had seen a list of parts that are
interchangeable with the Delorean Can anyone tell me where? Are the
exhaust manifolds standard on the engines? In other words will one that
was used in an engine for an AMC car be interchangeable with the D? OR did
John Z alter that feature. THanks. Ron
------------------------------
Date: 16 Feb 98 12:36:05 -0500
From: MCCOMBC@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: DML: BOOK
If anyone has a copy of "stainless steel illusion" that they would like
to
sell please contact me directly at mccombc@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx with price,
condition and phone number. Thanks, Cliff, VIN 11546
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Feb 98 11:25:18 -0700
From: James Espey <espey@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Grand Delusions book...
I just sent my copy of Grand Delusions to the author (Hillel Levin) for
him to sign. He is agreeable to sign his book if it is sent to him with
return postage and packaging.
Hillel Levin
President
CoolSavings/Interactive Coupon Network
8755 W. Higgins Road, Suite 100
Chicago, IL 60631-2708
Thought I'd pass it along...
James
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Feb 1998 12:08:47 -0800
From: "Ryan Bennett"@world.std.com (rpbennet@xxxxxxxxxxxxx)
Subject: DML: Re: How To Remove Lower door Panel?
Murray,
Last week I replaced both of my window motors, and it really isn't a big
deal.
You are correct on the escutcheon...it's a bitch. I don't know how they
made the little plastic clips hold the item on so tight and relentlessly.
You just need to work it out with a small screwdriver or something - it
took me a while. You can try to reach your hand up from the lower section
of the panel (after prying loose the retaining snaps) and get at it from
behind. It might help to have a kid or midget do this, as it was a really
tight squeeze for my arm.
To get to the 2 5mm bolt that secure the handle bracket you need a long
1/4" socket extension. Access the front bolt through the vacated mirror
control hole, and get at the rear bolt by working your socket around the
linkage that is exactly in the way (you need to push it aside while
ratcheting). When you go to put them back in, secure them in the socket
with, as you said, bubblegum or a magnet.
Those are really the only pitfalls...except if you end up having to
replace
the regulator assemblies, the replacement parts are different from the
originals (at least the ones from Grady were) and take quite alot of
coaxing and patience to install. Be aware that you need to pull back the
poly sheet inside the door for access to the regulators, so use silicone
or
something to reaffix it when you're done. I hope your problem isn't with
the tracks, because I couldn't see how a person would get back there to
work on them.
The replace both regulators took me 2 days after work.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Feb 1998 15:41:27 -0500
From: steve r <stephenr@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Where did I see that cross matching list
Ok buddy, I found the list. It is at http://www.dmc12.com/crossref.htm
I'm
glad i could help. I can't wait till i can get myself a job and start
saving
to get my Delorean. It is good to know there is a list with people just
like
me who love the car and are willing to help each other keep these
beautiful
cars stay in top shape. I look forward to the day when i will rely on
the DML
to get assistance for maintaining my delorean.
Ron Pohala wrote:
> Somewhere in one of the webpages I had seen a list of parts that are
> interchangeable with the Delorean Can anyone tell me where? Are the
> exhaust manifolds standard on the engines? In other words will one that
> was used in an engine for an AMC car be interchangeable with the D? OR did
> John Z alter that feature. THanks. Ron
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Feb 1998 18:11:33 -0500
From: steve r <stephenr@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Delorean Website
Has anyone here ever been to www.valzog.com in the past. I used to go
there
very often and i really enjoyed his page with deloreans for sale. It was
one
of the largest lists i had ever seen. Ever since october of last year his
for sale page has been down. Does anyone know if he will ever have it
back
up?
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Feb 1998 19:18:36 -0500
From: Wade Shapiro <shapiro3@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Re: Algae problem
If you decide to scrub the algae off, be careful on the hood/bonnet. I
have seen a
few DeLoreans that have an "X" showing through because while being washed
or
cleaned, people presssed down too hard on the stainless and the X brace
under the
panel made an imprint!
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Feb 1998 22:42:18 -0600
From: "Tim Hansen"@world.std.com (thansen@xxxxxxxxxx)
Subject: DML: DeLorean For Sale
1981 DeLorean for sale
Automatic, grey leather interior in decent shape (driver's seat leather
cracked, middle headliner sagging) unpainted stainless body PERFECT,
mechanically sound, 43,000 miles, well maintained, all service
records/reciepts, lots of literature, asking $17,500 but hoping for quick
sale and will deal willingly. I hate to sell the car, but I could really
use the money. Car is in southeastern Wisconsin. Any questions or
requests
for digital pics-email me.
Tim Hansen
thansen@xxxxxxxxxx
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 17 Feb 1998 00:08:25 EST
From: dmcnut@xxxxxxxx (DeLorean Nut)
Subject: DML: Neglected cars
I have seen discussion lately about all of these neglected cars - the
algae-covered DMC, the one in front of the restaurant, etc - is there
anyone out there besides myself who feels we should hound the owners to
sell these for cheap so that we could restore them? I do not have the
money to sink into more than one car each year but so far I have
"resurrected" one car and am working on a second. I would certainly
consider purchasing one of these forgotten masterpieces if the price was
right just to keep it away from vandals, weather, etc. even if I did not
even put a wrench to it for a year. Preservation is great to talk about,
but let us get into action.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Feb 1998 16:47:23 -0800
From: "lseiler@xxxxxxxxxxxx" <lseiler@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Updates
February 15th 1998
Hello All!
Project up-date time...........
1. Air scoops. The on car testing looks positive. We have found a
stainless steel guy who also is a DMC re builder who will fabricate the
first set prototypes in stainless. Once these are tested, we will be
ready to offer them to the DML. Currently we have one style that
generates 4.03psig over pressure at the grill inlet. It has the DMC
angular shape and can be installed in about 10 seconds. removal is a bit
more difficult and takes some lower arm strength. The scoops them selves
are low and flat with a simple grill. It will come in port and starboard
sets, and yes we deal with radio antenna extension.
Don't miss understand the pressure issue, this is what pressure sensors
read when the DMC is going 65mph. Unlike a super charger the pressure
boost depends on air flow over the DMC, and degrades as speed drops, also
there are pressure drops due to the passage of the air threw the DMC air
intake system, cleaner etc.....What you can practically expect from these
scoops is "Clean" cool air at something higher than local air pressure.
You will also have a secondary source of cool fresh air which you can use
in the engine or passenger compartment.
When ready the scoops will be burnished and ready to install.
2. Key-blanks
Key blank production was stopped as a day to day effort at the end of
January, we also need to return the pristine original Key blank loaned to
us to produce the keys in the first place. We are making one last
original die this week.
If you have ordered but not received a Key blank, You should see it in
the next week. After that we will do a Key run every other week for as
long as there is any interest at all.
3. Commissioned Limited Edition.
The draft box is completed all be it covered with spelling
errors...Wink<< Once I get the copy corrected, we will shoot it and drop
off a copy for James to put on the web site.
The stainless bodied kits will carry a silver seal, and the Gold bodied
kits will carry a gold seal. Each Box will come with the clients name and
Vin number printed on the box (full color printing) along with the
commission serial number and the collection 0 of 000 also printed on the
box.
As reported all 100 kits are now reserved for the commissioned limited
edition. I wish to stress that this list is only a reservation list,
there is no way at this point to tell just how many will actually be
sold, If you would like to be on the list if for nothing else but to stay
abreast of what happening, and of course to get an open slot should one
appear.
It looks like March is a solid date for the reservation mailing.
Thanks
Lee
VIN#5729
Lic:81DMC12
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 17 Feb 1998 06:42:57 -0800
From: "lseiler@xxxxxxxxxxxx" <lseiler@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Neglected cars
At 12:08 AM 2/17/98 EST, you wrote:
>I have seen discussion lately about all of these neglected cars - the
>algae-covered DMC, the one in front of the restaurant, etc - is there
>anyone out there besides myself who feels we should hound the owners to
>sell these for cheap so that we could restore them? I do not have the
>money to sink into more than one car each year but so far I have
>"resurrected" one car and am working on a second. I would certainly
>consider purchasing one of these forgotten masterpieces if the price was
>right just to keep it away from vandals, weather, etc. even if I did not
>even put a wrench to it for a year. Preservation is great to talk about,
>but let us get into action.
>
reply:
Hi dmcnut,
Having just had some one "hound" me about my private interest in DMC's I
can tell you that I don't think any of us has the right or should be
hounding any one else about what they choose to do with their DMC's. I
don't mean to sound harsh, but it seams to me that if we as a group are
going to use our power we should maybe be contacting the neglected car
owners and getting a price, buying the cars and getting them restored.
There is another point of view one could take here as well. "It's fine
by me for you to neglect your car....WINK<<.......cause when it gets
parked for good, mine increases in value!!!!!!!
I agree that getting these cars out of harms way is a good idea, maybe
you can start an ad hock group to look into picking up these DMCs'.
Thanks
Lee
VIN#5729
Lic:81DMC12
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 17 Feb 1998 06:47:18 -0800
From: "lseiler@xxxxxxxxxxxx" <lseiler@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: DeLorean For Sale
At 10:42 PM 2/16/98 -0600, you wrote:
>1981 DeLorean for sale
>Automatic, grey leather interior in decent shape (driver's seat leather
>cracked, middle headliner sagging) unpainted stainless body PERFECT,
>mechanically sound, 43,000 miles, well maintained, all service
>records/reciepts, lots of literature, asking $17,500 but hoping for quick
>sale and will deal willingly. I hate to sell the car, but I could really
>use the money. Car is in southeastern Wisconsin. Any questions or
>requests
>for digital pics-email me.
>Tim Hansen
>thansen@xxxxxxxxxx
reply:
Hi Tim, Ask 30K for it, you will enjoy the "extra" case even more,
maybe even get another DMC before the seller realizes he is selling too
cheep. Wink<<
Why sell for less when you can accept more? When it comes to money and
you are on the receiving end, "more" is ALLWAYS better!
Thanks
Lee
VIN#5729
Lic:81DMC12
------------------------------
End of dmcnews-digest V3 #331
*****************************
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