Ok first, my disclaimer: "I, Richard P. Acuti do not hold, nor do I
pretend to hold a PhD in the UN1, or any transmission of any make. If
you grenade your transmission, don't come cryin' to me."
Now that that's out of the way, I'll give you my theories.
1. Based on what you're describing, I -believe- most of the problem is
that you're losing pressure. Especially while hanging at a light with
the pedal depressed and then not going into gear without a "refresh"
pump of the pedal.
2. The metal sounds as Marc suggested may be the pressure plate
fingers. I've never had this happen, but I've read about it. I'm glad
he and I can agree on automotive matters if not politico/religious ones.
Courses of action:
1. Do not replace -just- the throw-out bearing or -just- the clutch
disc. If you open up this can of worms, do it all and do it once.
Replace the pressure plate, disc and bearing. They are all in the
bell-housing together. You do NOT have to remove the engine. Doing it
in "a weekend" is relative. If you have 2 friends, a case of beer, a
great set of tools, and lift and a tranny jack, sure. If you're doing
it in a parking space, at night, in the rain, with a crappy floor jack
and a pile of bricks with Bill and Mike like I did....well it might
take longer. :) The worst part is remove/reinstalling the shift
linkage bracket.
2. If you choose to start with the hydraulics first, (I would) then
get the stainless line, drain the system, rebuild/replace the master &
slave cylinders. It's a less expensive way to test if the actual
clutch is dying on you, and it needs doing anyway.
Oh! I almost forgot: drain the gearbox and replace the fluid. It's
cheap, simple and -may- (I say again) -may- aid in smoother shifting
if your current fluid is really nasty.
Hope this helps.
Rich A.
#5335
--- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "ryanpwright" <yahoo1@xxxx> wrote:
> Thanks for all of the info.
>
> >> Do you find yourself really pulling the stick hard to one side or the
> >> other to get into 1st/2nd or 5th?
>
> Nope. Doesn't seem to be a problem.
>
> You know, I wonder if the metallic sound I hear simply has to do with
> the clutch not fully disengaging. It could be very slightly rubbing. I
> bet replacing the line with Hervey's stainless line would solve this.
>
> >> A: Most people don't down-shift into first.
>
> I should clarify: I don't down-shift into first and then let the
> clutch out before I come to a stop. But often, as I'm rolling to a
> stop in neutral, I'll depress the clutch pedal and shift into first
> before I come to a complete stop, in preparation to take off again.
> This is very difficult to do most of the time.
>
> The behavior also is thus: Say I'm coming to a stop and I'm in any
> gear other than first. I push the clutch in, put the car in neutral,
> and leave the clutch depressed. I sit at the light for some random
> amount of time and try to shift into first. It's usually impossible to
> do so. If I let the clutch out while in neutral, come to a complete
> stop, then push it back in, I can get into first no problem.
>
> Now, as to how I should proceed:
>
> 1. Start with Hervey's new clutch line, a new throw-out bearing, and a
> complete flush of the system.
>
> 2. Or, should I just replace the clutch disk and pressure plate while
> I'm at it? Do I have to tear into them to replace the TOB? If so,
> might as well do it all at once. OR, can I replace the TOB without
> disturbing the others?
>
> How difficult is it to replace the clutch on this car? Is it something
> I could do over a weekend? I don't have to pull the engine, do I?
> (some rear engined cars really suck for this type of work)
>
> Thanks everyone,
>
> -Ryan
Back to the Home of PROJECT VIXEN