> I plan on using Bosch copper plugs and buying a higher voltage coil. I hear that Bosch copper don't last as long but work better than the more expensive ones. Bosch has recently changed their part numbers for their spark plugs. For the Bosch Super Cu-Electrode plug their old part number is HR 6 DC. The new number is 7566. The boxes they came in had both old & new numbers listed, so I know I got the right ones. They come pre-gapped to 0,7mm which is what the DeLorean likes. These cost a whopping $1.09 each. Ouch. If you want the silver or platinum plugs then the last letter of the old part number changes accordingly. "C" for copper, "S" for silver, and "P" for platinum. I bought a new coil at NAPA. This is NAPA Echlin part number IC74 It cost me $64.99. Oh shit! Did I pay too much? I found this coil by cross-referencing against an earlier cross-reference to a Wells part number C843. According to my ignition analyzer this coil put out a good bit more voltage, but I don't remember the numbers. It looks just like the OEM Bosch one and even has the same bracket already attached. > The timing mark jumps off the scale between 1600 and 2000 RPM. (I can't look two places at once). My timing light has a feature where I can dial in a specific advance amount. So if I set the light to 13 degrees then it flashes the timing mark on zero when the engine is running at 13 degrees advanced. Then at progressively higher RPMs, I dial in how much advance there should be at any specific RPM and the light flashes the mark at zero when the engine is running at that much advance. Then I use a hand vacuum pump on the distributor advance diaphragm to verify that that is working too. Nice. > I installed the new idle tube O-ring and verified it is sealed. I had one of those come apart on me too. It was a real pain in the ass to get it back together. I had to take the fuel mixture unit off (twice). Then I was paranoid about having it come apart again. I worked on another DeLorean recently that had this tube modified. I think it was done by PJ Grady. The brass tube was cut so that only a short nipple is used. It looked like it was epoxied into the mixture unit. The other end had a longer rubber hose with an elbow at the end. I like this so much that I'm going to ask Rob if he knows about this. > The only thing that bugs me is the engine still "farts" or pops. It doesn't do it often but it bugs me. I have to find that. Mine tends to stumble at idle. It does this about every 2 to 4 seconds. It likes to occasionally stall while I'm in the middle of an intersection waiting to turn left. Really pisses me off.. My theory is that one or two of the injectors is dribbling while the rest are spraying a piss-stream. When a drop lands on the top of the intake valve then it runs rich until it evaporates. Then it runs lean until another drop lands. I've checked the flow rates in test tubes and get the same volume from all the injectors at any flow rate. But it took a lot of trial & error to find a combination of parts to make it work this well. I tried a newly rebuilt fuel distributor only to find that the #2 cylinder delivers about half as much as the others. Bummer. And 3 batches of new injectors from different vendors all spray differently. I can swap them to different ports and they still spray the same. When I spend lots of bucks on rebuilt & new parts only to have this kind of problem it makes me want to throw it all out and try a different engine. And yes, I have that in the works too. > I need to ride in Mike Cohee's car and have him put his foot into it. I just talked to Mike today and he told me that Rob Grady says that rough idle is the single largest complaint of all of his customers. And Mike is complaining that he has a rough idle too. > I also need someone to ride behind me and tell me if I'm still gassing people. I can't smell fuel in the exhaust anymore but still... If it is that bad then I would expect that the catalytic converter could be glowing or already cooked. Or did you remove that? > Lastly, one more time: What brands of wires can I get that are the right kind, that are PRE-MADE and have the proper boots on them? The crux here is finding them with the boots. Some people just move their old boots to the new wires. Mike has a copy of the DeLorean midatlantic cross-reference sheet that gives numbers for 5 different manufactures. I wonder which ones come with boots and which ones don't. Walt Yahoo! Groups Sponsor ADVERTISEMENT <http://rd.yahoo.com/M=256694.4002236.5216697.1261774/D=egroupweb/S=170512 6215:HM/A=1784493/R=0/id=noscript/SIG=11q7p9e7k/*http://webevents.yahoo.co m/universal/intolerablecruelty/> <http://us.adserver.yahoo.com/l?M=256694.4002236.5216697.1261774/D=egroupm ail/S=:HM/A=1784493/rand=603495690> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: DMCForum-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> .
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