RE: [DMCForum] Tuning I

["John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Yes you paid to much for the coil, But you have the money and Napa needs
the
business. Also, The HR6 plugs are to me cold plugs and short trips will
foul
them out quicker.
John

  -----Original Message-----
  From: Walter Coe [mailto:Whalt@xxxxxxx]
  Sent: Saturday, October 04, 2003 7:37 PM
  To: DMCForum
  Subject: Re: [DMCForum] Tuning I


  > I plan on using Bosch copper plugs and buying a higher voltage coil.

  I hear that Bosch copper don't last as long but work better than the
more
  expensive ones.  Bosch has recently changed their part numbers for their
  spark plugs.  For the Bosch Super Cu-Electrode plug their old part
number
is
  HR 6 DC.  The new number is 7566.  The boxes they came in had both old &
new
  numbers listed, so I know I got the right ones.  They come pre-gapped to
  0,7mm which is what the DeLorean likes.  These cost a whopping $1.09
each.
  Ouch.  If you want the silver or platinum plugs then the last letter of
the
  old part number changes accordingly. "C" for copper, "S" for silver, and
"P"
  for platinum.

  I bought a new coil at NAPA.  This is NAPA Echlin part number IC74
  It cost me $64.99.  Oh shit!  Did I pay too much?  I found this coil by
  cross-referencing against an earlier cross-reference to a Wells part
number
  C843.  According to my ignition analyzer this coil put out a good bit
more
  voltage, but I don't remember the numbers.  It looks just like the OEM
Bosch
  one and even has the same bracket already attached.

  > The
  timing mark jumps off the scale between 1600 and 2000 RPM. (I can't
  look two places at once).

  My timing light has a feature where I can dial in a specific advance
amount.
  So if I set the light to 13 degrees then it flashes the timing mark on
zero
  when the engine is running at 13 degrees advanced.  Then at
progressively
  higher RPMs, I dial in how much advance there should be at any specific
RPM
  and the light flashes the mark at zero when the engine is running at
that
  much advance.  Then I use a hand vacuum pump on the distributor advance
  diaphragm to verify that that is working too.  Nice.

  > I installed the new idle tube O-ring and verified it is sealed.

  I had one of those come apart on me too.  It was a real pain in the ass
to
  get it back together.  I had to take the fuel mixture unit off (twice).
  Then I was paranoid about having it come apart again.

  I worked on another DeLorean recently that had this tube modified.  I
think
  it was done by PJ Grady.  The brass tube was cut so that only a short
nipple
  is used.  It looked like it was epoxied into the mixture unit.  The
other
  end had a longer rubber hose with an elbow at the end.  I like this so
much
  that I'm going to ask Rob if he knows about this.

  > The only thing that bugs me is the engine still "farts" or
  pops. It doesn't do it often but it bugs me. I have to find that.

  Mine tends to stumble at idle.  It does this about every 2 to 4 seconds.
It
  likes to occasionally stall while I'm in the middle of an intersection
  waiting to turn left.  Really pisses me off..  My theory is that one or
two
  of the injectors is dribbling while the rest are spraying a piss-stream.
  When a drop lands on the top of the intake valve then it runs rich until
it
  evaporates.  Then it runs lean until another drop lands.  I've checked
the
  flow rates in test tubes and get the same volume from all the injectors
at
  any flow rate.  But it took a lot of trial & error to find a combination
of
  parts to make it work this well.  I tried a newly rebuilt fuel
distributor
  only to find that the #2 cylinder delivers about half as much as the
others.
  Bummer.  And 3 batches of new injectors from different vendors all spray
  differently.  I can swap them to different ports and they still spray
the
  same.  When I spend lots of bucks on rebuilt & new parts only to have
this
  kind of problem it makes me want to throw it all out and try a different
  engine.  And yes, I have that in the works too.

  > I need to ride in Mike Cohee's car and have him put his
  foot into it.

  I just talked to Mike today and he told me that Rob Grady says that
rough
  idle is the single largest complaint of all of his customers.  And Mike
is
  complaining that he has a rough idle too.

  > I also need someone to ride behind me and tell me if I'm still gassing
  people. I can't smell fuel in the exhaust anymore but still...

  If it is that bad then I would expect that the catalytic converter could
be
  glowing or already cooked.  Or did you remove that?

  > Lastly, one more time: What brands of wires can I get that are the
  right kind, that are PRE-MADE and have the proper boots on them?

  The crux here is finding them with the boots.  Some people just move
their
  old boots to the new wires.  Mike has a copy of the DeLorean midatlantic
  cross-reference sheet that gives numbers for 5 different manufactures.
I
  wonder which ones come with boots and which ones don't.

  Walt



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