Walt, I bet my pressure switch is the culprit. I'll fix that while I'm under there. Thanks for the tip. The bolts that I cut were all attached to the X-over pipe. I got 3 to break but couldn't get enough torque on the other and I had a killer blister going, not to mention the bleeding knuckles. So, I cut them about half way through and they broke off with a little help from the ratchet. I didn't heat anything up (yet). I knew that these bolts could be easily drilled out and retapped once I had everything out from underneath the car. As for the cat, it wasn't just a little vibration. I was shaking that thing to death with the recip saw. I am getting Ed's pipe but I'd like to have an extra cat just in case. How much you want for one? As for the studs, I'm going to try these methods: 1. Heat the area around the stud and cool 2. Stud extractor 3. Double nut As for the heat/cool method, I plan to use good ole Canned Air. You can get it at most office supply stores. Anyone who has used this stuff knows that if you turn it upside down and then spray, it shoots a black of Freon that will frostbite your ass! > -----Original Message----- > From: Walter Coe [mailto:Whalt@xxxxxxx] > Sent: Monday, June 30, 2003 1:56 PM > To: DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx > Subject: Re: [DMCForum] Worst Case Scenario: The DeLorean Edition > > > http://tg2.vantagep.com/Worst_Case_Scenario.pdf > > Acrobat crashed my computer as expected when viewing stuff online. I'm > working on a tech-page template that will have clickable thumbnails. If > you > like, e-mail me some higher res versions of the photos and I'll get it all > plugged in and online. > > > My engine > > is mighty dirty from the last oil change! > > I bet you have a leaky oil pressure switch. They all leak. I replaced > mine > with a new one from PJ Grady, and now that one leaks too. I think that > the > only cure is to goop up the inside with Permatex Form-a-gasket. > > > At this point, my weakened muffler heat shield broke. The stress of the > > dangling muffler was just too much. Because of this, I was able to swing > the > > brackets down and free it from the cat. Cost of mistake: $75 (for new, > > improved PJ Grady heat shield) > > I removed the heat shield before this could be a problem. A nice cloud of > asbestos dust went everywhere. I promised myself that if I touch another > heat shield I would spray it down with WD-40 to keep the cancer causing > particles under control. > > The new PJ Grady heat shields are very brittle. Make sure it stays flat > as > you bolt it in or else it will crack. Or you can get a shield made of an > unusual stainless alloy made to reflect heat. I have this for my car. > These are available from http://www.delorean-steel-products.com/ > They also have a heat shield extension made to protect the lower a/c idler > pulley & belt. This design was my idea because I noticed that mine was > getting cooked a lot faster than the alternator belt. > > > The nut had rusted and actually fused itself to the bolt. No amount of > heat > > or oil would save it. > > Did you heat it until it glowed red? Most of mine unthreaded this way. > If > you get it hot enough you will have a puddle on the floor. Even if they > break, as long as you still have something sticking out to grab then you > are > doing well so far. Luckily I didn't have any sheer off even with the > block. > > > After 2 more broke just like the first, I resigned myself to the fact > that > > this was not going to work out like I had planned. So, out came the > Dremel. > > I cut out all 6 nuts off the left side and went ahead and cut the two > off > > the right side. > > Why did you cut them? If they didn't unscrew for me then I just let them > break off. There was always enough stud left to grab onto once the > manifold > was off. I did use the dremel with a wire brush to clean the exposed > threads off hoping that the nuts would come off easier. I'm wondering now > if it would be okay to wet the nuts with hydrochloric acid and follow up > with a little baking soda to keep it under control. HCl eats rust to no > end. > > > WORST CASE SCENARIO 3: STUCK CAT > > I couldn't get the nuts holding the cat to unthread either. I just > applied > brute force and let the studs shear off. > > > This left me with the most amount of options > > (wink wink) and the smallest financial penalty. Cost of mistake: $100- > 275 > > I have 2 cats laying around here. I'll make you a deal on one if you > don't > opt for Ed Uding's pipe. > > > To prepare for the delicate removal, I took out the cat heat shield. > It's > > held to the engine with 2 bolts. They come out very easily. > > Your cat heat shield looks a lot better than the one I took out. There > was > hardly anything left of it. > > > The vibration > > shredded the honeycomb inside and now it sounds like a freakin' maraca. > > I thought that those honeycombs were more resilient to vibration unless > yours was coming apart anyway. > > To get the remaining studs out of the block, I suggest first running the > engine (oh yeah, loud!) to get the block hot. Then use electrician's > component cooler to freeze and hopefully shrink the studs in relation to > the > expanded hot block. For the studs that still had threads on them, I > double-nutted them and then shook them loose with a pneumatic wrench. > Well, > some came out this way. The rest required a stud remover. > > We should make DeLorean ownership like the Boy Scouts and have little > merit > badges for "exhaust system", "door adjustment", "steering column bushing", > etc. > > Walt Yahoo! Groups Sponsor ADVERTISEMENT <http://rd.yahoo.com/M=244522.3313099.4604523.1261774/D=egroupweb/S=170512 6215:HM/A=1595054/R=0/SIG=124km4b11/*http://ashnin.com/clk/muryutaitakenat togyo?YH=3313099&yhad=1595054> Click Here! <http://us.adserver.yahoo.com/l?M=244522.3313099.4604523.1261774/D=egroupm ail/S=:HM/A=1595054/rand=280931685> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: DMCForum-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> .
<<attachment: winmail.dat>>
Back to the Home of PROJECT VIXEN