[DMCForum] Worst Case Scenario: The DeLorean Edition
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[DMCForum] Worst Case Scenario: The DeLorean Edition



Try not to have a heart attack when you read this stuff!

http://tg2.vantagep.com/Worst_Case_Scenario.pdf

This file is 426K because I took lots and lots of pictures, as promised.
Enclosed below is just the text:

----------------------------------------------


Worst Case Scenario:
DeLorean Exhaust Gaskets

First off, I gotta give mad props to Martin Gutkowski (whose original
document got me brave enough to try this madcap procedure) and all the
boys
at DMCForum. 

If you ever ask anyone about doing this procedure, 9 out of 10 will say,
"Leave it to a professional." Sage advice, but I'm too stupid to listen.
For
all of you who want to give this a shot, I've documented everything I went
through in hopes of building a better understanding.

Step 1: Assessing the Project

Before I started anything, I crawled under the car to get an idea of what
I
was going to have to do to remove the manifolds. I took lots of pictures
just to make sure.

This is the left side.

This is the right side. 

Now that I had a good idea, I went on to...

Step 2: Loosening the Muffler

There are 2 lower mounting brackets along the bottom of the muffler and a
rubber bushing at the top near the coolant tank.

Remove the bolts holding this bracket to the engine.

In this picture, I have already removed the bolts securing the bracket to
the engine. While you're under here, take some time to clean up. My engine
is mighty dirty from the last oil change! 

After I unbolted it from the engine, I realized that if I unbolted it from
the muffler, I would have enough swing to remove the muffler before
disconnecting the cat. Otherwise, if you choose to leave it attached, you
will have to wait until the cat is free to remove the muffler.


Remove the 2 bolts above and below the rubber bushing and pull it free.
The
muffler should now be loose, but still connected firmly to the cat.

WORST CASE SCENARIO 1: BROKEN MUFFLER HEAT SHIELD

At this point, my weakened muffler heat shield broke. The stress of the
dangling muffler was just too much. Because of this, I was able to swing
the
brackets down and free it from the cat. Cost of mistake: $75 (for new,
improved PJ Grady heat shield)

Step 3: Disconnecting the Crossover Pipe

The crossover pipe is so named because it crosses over the top of the
transmission and connects the two exhaust manifolds to the cat. 

In order to gain proper access, I had to remove the drive axle from the
transmission. This step is not necessary but I got tired of fighting with
it. It's a simple procedure involving 6 bolts. Just remove them and the
axle
will dangle out of the way.

Next, I removed the oxygen sensor. You need it out of there to access one
of
the bolts and to keep it from being damaged. Before you unscrew it, follow
the wire that connects to it through the wall and into the wheel well.
Disconnect it from there. Now you can remove it.

WORST CASE SCENARIO 2: SHEARING BOLTS

Now that I had easy access to everything, I joyfully went to removing the
first bolt. It was tight, so I tapped on it with a hammer. Then I thought
I'd try some penetrating oil. Soon the bolt began to turn. SNAP! The head
falls out and onto my chest. I take a good look at it and see the culprit.
The nut had rusted and actually fused itself to the bolt. No amount of
heat
or oil would save it.

After 2 more broke just like the first, I resigned myself to the fact that
this was not going to work out like I had planned. So, out came the
Dremel.
I cut out all 6 nuts off the left side and went ahead and cut the two off
the right side.

Whether you cut them out or you were lucky enough to get them to unbolt,
the
crossover pipe would be free. If you haven't removed the muffler already,
you will have enough wiggle room to get it off now.

Step 4: Removing the Catalytic Converter

Normally, this would be easy (that is, if you got everything to unbolt)
but
mine was so rusted that it was frozen in place. I tried drilling it out
but
I couldn't get enough leverage. So, I gave up for the time being and moved
on to...

Step 5: Removing the Manifold

With the muffler off and the crossover pipe loose, I had enough room to
get
the manifold off without removing the cat. Now that I know this, I suppose
I
could have just left it alone, but there is a gasket in there and if you
want to replace it, the cat has to come off. 

By pushing the cat and crossover pipe as far back as it would go, I had
easy
assess to the left side manifold. Earlier in I had started spraying the
nuts
with penetrating oil. I kept them wet for 4 days before staring this
procedure. Here's my results: 

2 came off fine, 3 broke off, and one stud extracted with the nut fused to
it. Could it have been worse. Hell, I suppose all of them could have
broken!

Step 4 Revisited: Removing the Catalytic Converter

WORST CASE SCENARIO 3: STUCK CAT

I decided that the cat had to come out. I needed the crossover pipe to
redo
the manifold mounts and the cat had to be off in order to get the pipe
out.
After much deliberation, I came to the following possibilities:

1.      Drop the transmission
2.      Cut the crossover pipe and buy a new one
3.      Cut the crossover pipe and have it re-welded
4.      Cut the catalytic converter

I finally decided on step 4. This left me with the most amount of options
(wink wink) and the smallest financial penalty. Cost of mistake: $100-275

To prepare for the delicate removal, I took out the cat heat shield. It's
held to the engine with 2 bolts. They come out very easily. 

Finally, the reciprocating saw made its first appearance with a fresh new
blade. I pulled the crossover and cat as far forward as I could get it and
cut the cat as close to the back flange as I could get it. The vibration
shredded the honeycomb inside and now it sounds like a freakin' maraca.

The carnage:

And this was only the left side!


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