All In order to continue the diagnosis of my overheating problems I have invested in a non-contact digital thermometer. Point the laser beam at an object and, hey presto it tell me how hot it is. No more guessing or burnt fingers! It would seem that my immediate, genuine overheating problems have been corrected by the new silencer/cat-bypass. After a 25miles run, both pipes to and from the thermostat recorded ~65degree-C. Even allowing for a 15-degree-C difference across the metal of the pipe the cooling system is doing the business. The cooling fans therefore do not need to come on at all, which Martin and others advised was the best indicator of excess heat being generated. The problems now seem to be electrical with all of the gauges doing some very strange things. · During the trip, the temperature gauge in the car varied wildly, settling at around the 10'oclock position. When the ignition switch is turned off the gauge initially settles to zero. Then it can be watched to climb to point straight up, ie beyond the normal top scale. Indeed on several occasions the needle settled pointing to the letter P, of `temp'. The gauge rises very quickly if the lights are switched on, faster as each greater level of illumination is used. The temp gauge also moves when the interior cooling fans are turned on/off. · The voltmeter now rarely indicates above the 8v mark. Occasionally is will read 10v if the car is revved at idle. Attaching a voltmeter across the battery shows it to be OK, and starting is fine. New 130amp alternator is standing by but the car has a Motorola that appears to work correctly. · The oil pressure gauge, for which a new sender has been fitted, does not read beyond the second line. The pressure has been checked by external equipment and is OK. The gauge moves about through an angle of 30degrees and back when the door sensors are open/closed. · Petrol gauge reads low. The car has a full tank of fuel, but points to <quarter full. · The direction indicators are not behaving either at idle at junctions the indicators do not start working, if the throttle is blipped they start, but I am not confident that they are working as quickly as the should. Hand signals through the minimal window are not a good option! I am guessing that there is either a bad ground or a short somewhere. All of the relays/fuses have been upgraded. The new lock zilla and fan fail 2x2 work normally. I had planned to change/clean the relay for the direction indicators but the manual shows this (and the windscreen control module, logic/buzzer box) next to the left hand bulkhead. No such device is immediately visible. (Still trying to trace the buzzer noise) I have briefly connected a jump cable between the ?ve battery post and the engine ground point which made no difference. What are the next steps to diagnose where the problem lies? The car itself drives very well, and the engine now revs smoothly. I am concerned though that I am being denied meaningful warnings of actual problems, and I am now spending too much time staring at the direction indictor bulb to see if my signals are being shown to other road users.