To Kevin,
You should really measure voltage at the main starter terminal to see if you have at least 9v when cranking (i.e. battery under load). The jump start cable may have a poor connection. Work from the fault back not from any point forward.
I'm assuming here that the battery has been load tested i.e. the battery voltage measured with a load of at least 200-250amps. Batteries can give a full 12 volt reading even with a duff cell. It's the storage capacity and current load capability thats required. Have the battery tested first before blaming the car, it may have suffered a long hard life !
You can try removing the battery and removing the lids from the cells to ensure that it has enough distilled di-ionised water covering the plates. If the water is low then the battery won't give enough charge. If one cell is v low/ dry then buy a new battery as it would certainly have leaked/ destroyed the plates. Check the plates also to check that there is no discolouration or large deposits as this may have become sulphated (rotten egg smell when charged). If it is like this buy a new battery. Only top up the water after the battery has had a long enough charge. Look at the amp hour rating and check the charge for this (i.e. a 60 amp hour battery will take 60 hours to charge with a charge at 1 amp etc, the lower the charge the better). Also check the electrolyte specific gravity as this is more indicative of the charge. The testers can be bought for a couple of quick. These just suck up some of the water/ acid mix and test for the strength. If all read OK then you may be lucky to charge the battery.
I always check the basics first. If the battery has been (load) tested and is deemed OK then try removing the original battery from underneath the car and then removing it. Place this behind the car and connect this using jump leads to the engine block and the jump start point. Test for voltages as before. If this now successfully gives the 9 volts at the starter when cranking etc then there may be an earth fault from the chassis to the -ve battery terminal or a live connection to/ from the large connector block underneath/ dodgy solenoid etc.
Voltages can sometimes be a bit misleading, current counts as well. Look at the alternator, it can give 13-14.5 volts but if overloaded then the voltage will drop if the current demand is too high (air conditioning/ cooling fans etc) hence the need for a high current alternator on the D.
Hope this helps, don't want to start a thread, more important to have a great car !
Nick.
"kevin_sar <kevin.milliken@xxxx>" <kevin.milliken@xxxx> wrote:
Hi Questions for you all
The engine on the De turns over fairly slowly but starts, just.
Apparently it always has turned slowly, I got the battery checked and
it was o/k but I charged it up anyway. Tried it the next day and the
crank speed was a bit higher and started a little easier.
I had already cleaned the earthing points to make sure they were o/k.
I have measured the battery at the battery whilst cranking and it is
about 9.53 volts approx, However when you measure between the engine
and the jump start point the voltage is about 6.5 Volts.
The question is, is it worth running another dedicated Positive and
negative lead direct to the starter to minimize the apparent volt
drop has anyone done this already? and does it make a difference?
The second question is the drivers door has 2 switches, one operates
the door lights what is the other supposed to do?
Thanks
Kevin #5959
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