Re: [DML] Is there an alternate way to tension AC belt

["content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

If you tap the hole larger (M8 for example), you need make the slots in the AC bracket correspondingly larger as well. M7 is the largest bolt that fits through an unmodified bracket.

Don't worry about chips falling inside your cranckcase -- As Jake mentioned, those are blind holes, not through holes.

What Jake conveniently forgot to mention is that because those are blind holes, you need to use a bottoming tap, not a taper tap. Most multi-size tap sets come with taper taps, not bottoming taps. A taper tap simply won't cut threads deep enough to do you any good.

Easiest repair would be a Helicoil. Helicoil taps come in both taper and bottoming points. 2087 series is the taper point, 2093 series is the bottoming point (2087-7 is a 7mm taper point, 2093-7 is a 7mm bottoming point).

Bill Robertson
#5939


--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Jake Kamphoefner <jakekamp@...> wrote:
>
> 
> 
> Hey Steve,
> 
> Back when this list was moderated, instead of being allowed to be destroyed by 
> the daily ramblings of an ignorant, self-important lunatic desperate for human 
> interaction at any cost, we used to answer questions like this.  So here's one 
> for old time's sake....
> 
> I think you are on the right track with the tap.  Those two threaded holes in 
> the timing cover are capped on the inside so the bolts actually never work as an 
> oil seal.  You can verify this by removing them and putting a long punch through 
> the hole.  But because of this, the length of those M7s is critical.  Make sure 
> you mark your depth and don't go too far with the tap.  Just work slowly and 
> you'll be fine.  You do not want to break the timing cover or you'll be rather 
> unhappy.
> 
> To be safe, you'd probably also be better off removing the entire bracket along 
> with the blanking plate and o-ring.  Then tape over the cam access hole so you 
> don't get anything falling down in the crankcase while you work.  With your new 
> bolts, error on the side of shorter rather than longer; there is plenty of 
> thread for such a non-critical part.  I always use some anti-seize going back in 
> for fear of exactly this scenario.
> 
> Good luck,
> 
> Jake Kamphoefner
> 1063
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ________________________________
> From: Stephen Rice <stevedmc@...>
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Sent: Fri, March 16, 2012 10:29:38 PM
> Subject: [DML] Is there an alternate way to tension AC belt
> 
> Â  
> Several months ago I took my AC belt out of the car and the other day
> I decided to put it back it. Well, I'm having trouble getting the
> thing to tighten because one of the bolts for the bracket will not
> stay in the engine. The threads are stripped and I really don't want
> to tap the threads since the metal would end up in my engine.
> 
> Has anyone ever ran into this, or better yet, is there a better way to
> tension the belt rather than use the stock design?
> 
> The picture below shows which bolt is completely loose. The top bolt
> feels as if its threads are giving way as well. I'm afraid if I
> tightening it too much its threads will give way as well.
> http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/s320x320/426916_10150728210865586_624210585_11832095_274403980_n.jpg
> 
> 
> -- 
> Steve Rice
> #16510
> 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>




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