[DML] Re: A/C Compressor clutch

["Harold" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>]

Have you measured the amperage draw of the clutch?

You can do that by disconnecting the clutch and using a jumper to the positive battery post in the engine compartment. It should be about 4 amps. If you run the system you can watch the clutch function. I'm sure I don't need to remind you of the dangers of working around the engine while running. If the air gap is bad there is usually slippage when the system reaches high pressure or high speed and then it drops out because of heat and then comes back after it cools. But, the clutch is fused (#10), not on a circuit breaker, so improper clutch air gap could be the issue (max .040"). Before I would call the clutch an issue I would check and put contact cleaner on ALL of the connections and if possible measure the resistances. There are several connections that could be creating too high resistance. Both the high and low pressure switches and their connections, connections at the diode that controls the fans and, connections at the mode switch. Even the fuse connections could be dirty. Fuse 10 also supplies power to fan speeds one and two - so, a lot of stuff on fuse 10.

I suspect your issue is contact related and not the clutch but, diagnosis is the only way to know for sure.

Harold McElraft - 3354


--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, aphawrldch@... wrote:
>
>  
> In a message dated 9/1/2010 6:44:07 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
> hmcelraft@... writes:
> 
> Does  the fan inside the car stop - wait - and then it works again for a 
> while?  Speeds 3 and 4 stop - speeds 1 and 2 work?
> 
> Harold McElraft -  3354
> 
> 
> Yes, all speeds work.  Noisy on 3 but still  working.
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>




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