[DML] Re: fuel tank

["David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

While you are doing that also make sure the vacuum hoses are OK and,
connected properly. It is also VERY important to make sure the "U"
shaped vent hose is not kinked. In fact there is an ST bulletin on it.
More common for the wiring for the heating element inside the WUR (aka
CPR) to burn.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "welmoedj" <joe.dalton@...> wrote:
>
> Fred and Tom:
> 
> Last weekend Tom and I discussed another part to clean: the filter 
> inside the WUR.
> It's about a cent's size, but once dirty it can cause al kinds of 
> problems.
> Why not clean it, while you're cleaning all other parts?
> 
> Welmoed.
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Tom Tait" <TTait@> wrote:
> >
> > Fred:
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > Depending on what you are up to, and if the car has been sitting for
> > some time, you may want to do more than just clean the pump.  
> Follwing
> > is a procedure I have done twice to flush the fuel lines as well.  
> It
> > may be helpful.
> > 
> >  
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > I think I posted it a long time back, but it feels easier to write 
> it
> > out than find it in some odd way...
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > I'll assume you have already pulled the pump, baffle assembly and 
> fuel
> > level sender and cleaned the inside of the tank to within an inch 
> of its
> > life.  If you need instructions on that part, let me know.
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > To flush the fuel system, first go to the fuel distributor.  You 
> will
> > find the fuel supply and return lines there, they are much larger 
> banjo
> > bolts than the others, lots of diagrams, let me know if you don't 
> have
> > one.  
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > Remove the hollow bolts holding these two lines to the fuel 
> distributor,
> > be careful not to drop the copper washers.
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > Then you need to connect these two lines together.  To do this get a
> > smaller bolt and some washers, copper washers help here too. The 
> bolt
> > should be several sizes smaller than the hollow bolts that held the
> > banjos in place.
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > Place a large/fender washer on the end of the bolt, then a copper
> > washer, then the first banjo fitting, lets say for the fuel supply 
> line,
> > another copper washer, the second banjo, another copper washer, a 
> steel
> > washer and then the nut. Make sure all the washers are well aligned 
> as
> > you tighten the nut up.  This fitting is going to leak a bit, so 
> put a
> > catchbasin on top of the fuel distributor and get this bolted up 
> joint
> > over it to catch the drips.
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > Now go to your local auto parts store where there is a intelligent 
> and
> > helpful guy, as he needs to find you a cheap, low pressure electric 
> fuel
> > pump.  The 16 year old kid will just repeatedly ask you what make 
> and
> > model, and maybe eventually bring you an $80 fuel pump - the guy who
> > knows what he's doing will grab you one in 15 seconds that costs 
> $20.
> > Also pick up a gallon of Berrymans B12 fuel system cleaner, if they
> > still sell it there, or a good fuel system cleaner in bulk, maybe 
> lucas.
> > Get a bit more fuel line, a brass barb to join 2 fuel lines 
> together,
> > and several of the cheap plastic fuel filters that are clear with a
> > paper filter in them (the $3 ones).  You also need another 
> catchbasin.
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > Also get a gallon of gas in a gas can.  If it's going to be some 
> time
> > before you actually run the car, put fuel stabilizer in the gas.
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > Back at the car, remove the banjo from your old fuel feed line that 
> used
> > to tie to the top of the pump.  Plug the output of your new cheap 
> fuel
> > pump on it.  Use the brass barb if required.  Put another length of 
> fuel
> > hose onto the inlet side of the pump, this is your temporary feed 
> line.
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > On the fuel return hose, put one of the cheap plastic fuel filters 
> on
> > the end.  Set that hose with the filter on the end into a clean
> > catchbasin.  Use another length of hose after the filter if needed.
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > You are going to need to make the pump run, I use a 12v car battery
> > charger, you can wire to your lighter plug if needed, but use 
> something
> > fused to feed it, don't just wire it directly to the battery, this 
> is a
> > bad time for a fire.
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > Now you are prepped, before you flush, make sure you have your can 
> of
> > gasoline, some empty jugs to pour waste into, a funnel, rags etc. 
> before
> > you start.  B12, or whatever cleaner you use, can be really hard on 
> the
> > rubber in the fuel accumulator and other spots if left for an 
> extended
> > period of time.  I've had no problems with an hour, but I wouldn't 
> want
> > that stuff in there for days. It will certainly take a toll on the 
> fuel
> > accumulator.  Don't start till you have the time and materials you 
> need.
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > To begin flushing, pour about a quart of the cleaner into the
> > catchbasin. Submerge the inlet hose from the small fuel pump into 
> it and
> > turn on the pump.  Add a bit more cleaner if needed so you don't run
> > dry.  Have someone at the engine bay watch that area for bad leaks.
> > After perhaps a minute at the most, you will see black chunky liquid
> > coming into the cheap filter.  Let the fluid recirculate for a 
> while in
> > the basin, until the filter clogs or the chunks slow down a bit, 
> then
> > turn off the pump.  Pour the foul liquid into an empty jug, wipe the
> > basin, add more cleaner, perhaps replace the filter and run it some
> > more.  Run the gallon of cleaner through over the course of 30-60
> > minutes, changing the filters as required.  When the chunks stop 
> coming,
> > and the color of the liquid lightens to the color of iced tea or 
> even
> > lighter, you are done cleaning.  
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > Turn off the pump, remove the filter and stick the return line 
> directly
> > into an empty jug. Either fill the catchbasin with gas or just 
> stick the
> > inlet hose down into the gas can, and start sucking the gas through 
> and
> > letting it drain into the empty jug.  Run at least half a gallon
> > through, perhaps a full gallon to flush out the fuel cleaner.
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > Turn off the pump, clean up.  Its best to now replace the two hoses 
> at
> > the fuel pump, the feed and return lines that are about 16" long 
> and run
> > to the hard lines.  You will likely have to cut them off.  Make 
> sure you
> > know which hard line is the feed line and which is the return.  I 
> think
> > the feed line is the drivers side hard line, but that's just from
> > memory.
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > Re-connect the banjo bolts at the fuel distributor, using fresh 
> copper
> > washers if possible.  Replace your fuel filter, 50/50 that you will 
> need
> > to replace the accumulator too, but it's worth a shot to try it.
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > Make sure the inside of the tank is immaculate when you 
> reassemble.  You
> > can consider using hervey's baffle assembly - I like it, some 
> don't -
> > it's a lot simpler.
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > When I do this (I have twice on both our cars) I replace the fuel
> > filter, the hoses at the tank, the filter, accumulator, all the 
> copper
> > washers at the fuel distributor, the tiny O ring inside the front 
> of the
> > fuel distributor, and I clean the injectors - easiest way to do is 
> mail
> > them to Hervey as he does more testing, but you could clean them in 
> B12
> > in a cheap ultrasonic cleaner from Harbor Freight, but use Hervey 
> if you
> > can so you know what your are re-installing.
> > 
> >  
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > Tom
> > 
> > 10902
> > 
> > 03238 (both sat about 12 years with old gas...)
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > From: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On 
> Behalf
> > Of Fred Phaup
> > Sent: Saturday, September 13, 2008 6:41 PM
> > To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > Subject: [DML] fuel tank
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > Hi Group
> >  
> > I need to drain and clean my fuel tank. Any tricks to help? Or do I 
> have
> > to open and pull the pump?
> >  
> > Thanks for your input.
> >  
> > Fred
> > vin 1765
> > 
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>



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