Re: [DML] fuel tank

["welmoedj" <joe.dalton@xxxxxxxxxx>]

Fred and Tom:

Last weekend Tom and I discussed another part to clean: the filter 
inside the WUR.
It's about a cent's size, but once dirty it can cause al kinds of 
problems.
Why not clean it, while you're cleaning all other parts?

Welmoed.


--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Tom Tait" <TTait@...> wrote:
>
> Fred:
> 
>  
> 
> Depending on what you are up to, and if the car has been sitting for
> some time, you may want to do more than just clean the pump.  
Follwing
> is a procedure I have done twice to flush the fuel lines as well.  
It
> may be helpful.
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> I think I posted it a long time back, but it feels easier to write 
it
> out than find it in some odd way...
> 
>  
> 
> I'll assume you have already pulled the pump, baffle assembly and 
fuel
> level sender and cleaned the inside of the tank to within an inch 
of its
> life.  If you need instructions on that part, let me know.
> 
>  
> 
> To flush the fuel system, first go to the fuel distributor.  You 
will
> find the fuel supply and return lines there, they are much larger 
banjo
> bolts than the others, lots of diagrams, let me know if you don't 
have
> one.  
> 
>  
> 
> Remove the hollow bolts holding these two lines to the fuel 
distributor,
> be careful not to drop the copper washers.
> 
>  
> 
> Then you need to connect these two lines together.  To do this get a
> smaller bolt and some washers, copper washers help here too. The 
bolt
> should be several sizes smaller than the hollow bolts that held the
> banjos in place.
> 
>  
> 
> Place a large/fender washer on the end of the bolt, then a copper
> washer, then the first banjo fitting, lets say for the fuel supply 
line,
> another copper washer, the second banjo, another copper washer, a 
steel
> washer and then the nut. Make sure all the washers are well aligned 
as
> you tighten the nut up.  This fitting is going to leak a bit, so 
put a
> catchbasin on top of the fuel distributor and get this bolted up 
joint
> over it to catch the drips.
> 
>  
> 
> Now go to your local auto parts store where there is a intelligent 
and
> helpful guy, as he needs to find you a cheap, low pressure electric 
fuel
> pump.  The 16 year old kid will just repeatedly ask you what make 
and
> model, and maybe eventually bring you an $80 fuel pump - the guy who
> knows what he's doing will grab you one in 15 seconds that costs 
$20.
> Also pick up a gallon of Berrymans B12 fuel system cleaner, if they
> still sell it there, or a good fuel system cleaner in bulk, maybe 
lucas.
> Get a bit more fuel line, a brass barb to join 2 fuel lines 
together,
> and several of the cheap plastic fuel filters that are clear with a
> paper filter in them (the $3 ones).  You also need another 
catchbasin.
> 
>  
> 
> Also get a gallon of gas in a gas can.  If it's going to be some 
time
> before you actually run the car, put fuel stabilizer in the gas.
> 
>  
> 
> Back at the car, remove the banjo from your old fuel feed line that 
used
> to tie to the top of the pump.  Plug the output of your new cheap 
fuel
> pump on it.  Use the brass barb if required.  Put another length of 
fuel
> hose onto the inlet side of the pump, this is your temporary feed 
line.
> 
>  
> 
> On the fuel return hose, put one of the cheap plastic fuel filters 
on
> the end.  Set that hose with the filter on the end into a clean
> catchbasin.  Use another length of hose after the filter if needed.
> 
>  
> 
> You are going to need to make the pump run, I use a 12v car battery
> charger, you can wire to your lighter plug if needed, but use 
something
> fused to feed it, don't just wire it directly to the battery, this 
is a
> bad time for a fire.
> 
>  
> 
> Now you are prepped, before you flush, make sure you have your can 
of
> gasoline, some empty jugs to pour waste into, a funnel, rags etc. 
before
> you start.  B12, or whatever cleaner you use, can be really hard on 
the
> rubber in the fuel accumulator and other spots if left for an 
extended
> period of time.  I've had no problems with an hour, but I wouldn't 
want
> that stuff in there for days. It will certainly take a toll on the 
fuel
> accumulator.  Don't start till you have the time and materials you 
need.
> 
>  
> 
> To begin flushing, pour about a quart of the cleaner into the
> catchbasin. Submerge the inlet hose from the small fuel pump into 
it and
> turn on the pump.  Add a bit more cleaner if needed so you don't run
> dry.  Have someone at the engine bay watch that area for bad leaks.
> After perhaps a minute at the most, you will see black chunky liquid
> coming into the cheap filter.  Let the fluid recirculate for a 
while in
> the basin, until the filter clogs or the chunks slow down a bit, 
then
> turn off the pump.  Pour the foul liquid into an empty jug, wipe the
> basin, add more cleaner, perhaps replace the filter and run it some
> more.  Run the gallon of cleaner through over the course of 30-60
> minutes, changing the filters as required.  When the chunks stop 
coming,
> and the color of the liquid lightens to the color of iced tea or 
even
> lighter, you are done cleaning.  
> 
>  
> 
> Turn off the pump, remove the filter and stick the return line 
directly
> into an empty jug. Either fill the catchbasin with gas or just 
stick the
> inlet hose down into the gas can, and start sucking the gas through 
and
> letting it drain into the empty jug.  Run at least half a gallon
> through, perhaps a full gallon to flush out the fuel cleaner.
> 
>  
> 
> Turn off the pump, clean up.  Its best to now replace the two hoses 
at
> the fuel pump, the feed and return lines that are about 16" long 
and run
> to the hard lines.  You will likely have to cut them off.  Make 
sure you
> know which hard line is the feed line and which is the return.  I 
think
> the feed line is the drivers side hard line, but that's just from
> memory.
> 
>  
> 
> Re-connect the banjo bolts at the fuel distributor, using fresh 
copper
> washers if possible.  Replace your fuel filter, 50/50 that you will 
need
> to replace the accumulator too, but it's worth a shot to try it.
> 
>  
> 
> Make sure the inside of the tank is immaculate when you 
reassemble.  You
> can consider using hervey's baffle assembly - I like it, some 
don't -
> it's a lot simpler.
> 
>  
> 
> When I do this (I have twice on both our cars) I replace the fuel
> filter, the hoses at the tank, the filter, accumulator, all the 
copper
> washers at the fuel distributor, the tiny O ring inside the front 
of the
> fuel distributor, and I clean the injectors - easiest way to do is 
mail
> them to Hervey as he does more testing, but you could clean them in 
B12
> in a cheap ultrasonic cleaner from Harbor Freight, but use Hervey 
if you
> can so you know what your are re-installing.
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> Tom
> 
> 10902
> 
> 03238 (both sat about 12 years with old gas...)
> 
>  
> 
> From: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On 
Behalf
> Of Fred Phaup
> Sent: Saturday, September 13, 2008 6:41 PM
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [DML] fuel tank
> 
>  
> 
> Hi Group
>  
> I need to drain and clean my fuel tank. Any tricks to help? Or do I 
have
> to open and pull the pump?
>  
> Thanks for your input.
>  
> Fred
> vin 1765
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
>  
> 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>



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