You don't need to pull the gearbox to do the output seals. You MUST pull it to do the clutch. Since you do have to remove it because the clutch is starting to slip here are the things you should prepare for: Replace the clutch plate, pressure plate, throwout bearing, and pilot bearing. If the slave cylinder is leaking replace it, the master cylinder, and the hose if it is not the braided steel one. Check the left, front transmission mounting bracket for cracks Replace any rubber bushings that are worn in the linkage and adjust it after you reinstall the transmission. Now here's the part you are not going to like. Since you have the trans out of the car it isn't all that much more to open it and inspect the roll pins on the shifter rail. If they are bent they should be replaced. You should also inspect the 5th gear fork. If it is bent it can be straightened or replaced. It can't hurt to replace the input seal but if it isn't leaking it should be OK. When replacing the output seals you need to use a "Speedi-Sleeve" on the output flanges so the groove doesn't make the new seals leak. If the flywheel isn't all grooved up, heat cracked, or blue it doesn't have to be cut but if it is the machine shop can't cut too much or the clutch won't work right. Most vendors will recomend the Centerforce clutch as opposed to the Valeo, I think right now they are both the same except for old stock. Do NOT use Hylomar, it will leak. Use a good brand of silicone sealer on the case halves. If you do not have a magnetic drain plug order one, you only need one, the level plug does not have to be magnetic. Some owners claim synthetic gear oil makes the transmission shift better especially in cold weather. DO NOT OVERFILL. Follow the service procedures in the Workshop Manual section "F". Order an extra pivot bolt for the shift linkage to keep in the glove box for when the one in the car now breaks. Work slowly and carefully to avoid breaking bolts. Be careful of the transmission, it isn't that heavy but if it gets away from you it can crush fingers. When reinstalling the transmission do not force it. If it doesn't go back right take it out, figure out what is stopping you, fix it, and try again. You can do this on jackstands with a creeper and a floor jack to take out the trans. Just do it on a smooth, level surface, like a concrete floor in a garage, not a rough driveway outside if possible. You might also want to service the C/V joints. You will need the C/V boots and clamps, a lot of cleaner and grease. David Teitelbaum vin 10757 --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Chris Hawes" <christopherhawes@...> wrote: > > My car has had one of the drive shaft lips seals leaking for some time (not > quite the 5 years I have had the car) so it is something I have always meant > to get around to. To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:dmcnews-digest@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx mailto:dmcnews-fullfeatured@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: dmcnews-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/