RE: [DML] Some sort of cold start issue ... please help me identify

["John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Derek See Below:

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of
Derek
Sent: Friday, July 07, 2006 2:32 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Some sort of cold start issue ... please help me identify

A little history:

The car has always been good to start cold, only once in a while 
taking a few more cranks, (living in NY, generally 50-70 degrees out) 
but would always run rough for the first 2 minutes. 

Running rough would tell me that fuel leaked into the cylinders, and until
it burned out it would run rough. Look at the plugs and I'll bet they are
sooty black. 

If I started the 
car and took off, the engine would hiccup and buck if the RPMs went 
below 2000. Sometimes it would stall. So, I learned to just let it 
warm up. Idle was always around 1100-1200 RPM. 

This problem sounds like the warm up / control pressure regulator is bad.

Now I am in Florida, did a complete VOD teardown, and got the car 
back together. It was a pain to get started at first.
Currently when I go to start the car cold (living in FL, generally 80-
90 degrees or warmer if in the garage) and hold the key in 
the 'start' position it will crank 10 times, and chug itself until it 
starts. Once started, if you give it gas right away it will kill it. 
If you wait a few seconds and slowly give it gas, it will start to 
run more constant. If you rev it up to 3000 RPMs and kick in the 
alternator, your good to go. Also now since the rebuild (fixing some 
vacuum leaks) the car idles at 775-800 RPMs once it is started and 
warm. 
You may now be having a hot start problem which could be the accumulator or
again a warm up regulator problem. Also the O Ring in the primary pressure
regulator my have blown off.

My assumption was that I messed up the ground for the thermotime 
switch when reinstalling everything. I posted about this and was 
suggested to remove the teflon tape. I got a new thermotime switch 
from a fellow owner and swapped it out. Problem is still occurring.

Checking the TTS switch is very easy. Unscrew the cold start valve and lay
it over on a piece of cardboard and crank the engine over a time or 2. If
fuel sprays on the cardboard, then the valve and TTS switch is good. 
 

My thinking is that by fixing the small vacuum leak I have caused the 
cold start issue to stand out much more. I haven't had time to go 
fishing on my electrical system yet, but what should I be looking 
for, and what could be needing a replacement?

John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com










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