Check the vacuum hose connections at the thermal switch and solenoid. Sounds like you got one of them backwards. There's a technical bulletin on this. Warren at DMC stainlessilusion wrote: > Thank you Jeff Friday. Good thing you told me to check the timing, > must have been around 40 degrees (!). So I adjust it back to 13, it > idles smooth, and so far has been starting up quickly (tomorrow > morning is the ultimate test). Also readjusted CO. But it now back > fires more anytime you let off the gas (it backfired before but not > nearly as much), AND I'm lacking serious power- I'd step on the gas > before and the car would boogie, now it's sluggish. I changed the > advance diaphram last year so I know that it's good (will double check > tomorrow), vac lines are silicone. Any suggestions? Thanks again! > -----Dani B. #5003 > > > > --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Jeff Friday" <DeLorean_Type304@xxxx> > wrote: > >>I had a problem just like this on one of the cars I serviced. It > > popped and > >>ran really rough unless I aligned the distributor all the way over > > to one > >>side of the alignment area. The distributor was off by one tooth > > where it > >>meets the camshaft. I pulled the distributor and aligned the motor > > by hand > >>(valve cover on the right side off to check valve movement and be > > sure the > >>motor is on the right stroke) once I reinstalled the distributor the >>position of the rotor was a bit away from the center and I checked the >>timing after the car was running. I had to move the distributor a few >>millimeters or so over once the car was running but we hit a perfect 13 >>degrees and the car started and ran perfectly from then on out. >> >>Be sure to use the 13 degree mark and not the 0 on the timing plate. > > You > >>can pick up a cheap timing light from any autoparts store. Also when >>aligning the cranksahft pulley be sure your using the mark on the > > right of > >>the pulley not the one to the left of it...that mark is for the > > number 6 > >>cylinder. >> >>Jeff in NC >> >>P.S. Also you may have to readjust your CO once the distributor is > > aligned > >>properly. CO balance is very inportant. You can smell the exhaust > > and tell > >>right away if it is too rich if it burns your eyes to be near it. Also >>gauge the heat with your hand. I don't personally know your mechanical >>ability but that's a trick I use. An easier way to get proper CO if > > you > >>don't have the device to measure it in the exhaust is to listen for the >>Frequency Valve. It will cease to make a continuous buzzing noise > > if too > >>rich. play with the CO screw making 1/8 turns and listen to both > > the engine > >>and the Frequency Valve when you hit the sweet spot it will be just > > below > >>the sound of the valve cutting off as you rotate counterclockwise from >>richer to lean. The instant the valve comes on and remains constant > > once > >>the car is warmed off, stop and cover the access hole. The car will > > run > >>perfectly from that point out. >> >>Unless you have a problem with the O2 Sensor and in that case > > replace or > >>unplug. Unplugging forces the car to a default rich mixture and the >>Frequency Valve buzzes to life. We used that solution on a couple > > cars here > >>in NC until they ordered a new O2 Sensor and they ran like a dream. >> >> >>>From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-@xxxxxxx> >>>Reply-To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx >>>To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx >>>Subject: [DML] Can someone explain this? (distributor positioning) >>>Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 01:09:40 -0000 >>> >>>I'm still battling to get my engine running good, but encountered some >>>problems. The distributor is adjusted a little bit counter clockwise >> >>>from the center line-the engine starts right up fast, but idle >> >>>condition is horrible with "popping" and rough running not to mention >>>vibrations. Adjusting the distributor so it is on the centerline will >>>give me the same results as described above, just a bit less popping. >>>When it is adjusted a slight bit clockwise over the centerline, the >>>engine runs so smooth and perfectly! BUT after the engine is off for 5 >>>minutes it is hard to start, and letting it sit over night it won't >>>start at all the next morning. The only way to start it is with a >>>great deal of starting spray, or by unbolting the distributor and >>>adjusting it CCW. So instead of having a nice running engine, I run it >>>CCW to eliminate start-up problems but also have to deal with bad rock >>>and roll. Does anyone have any ideas on why this is happening? Is >>>there something else I need to replace in order to get it to start >>>right up? Thanks guys! -----Dani B. #5003 (almost there) > > > > > > > > To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: > moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx > > For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com > > To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews Yahoo! 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