I appreciate the tip. Uh...my brass screws are all shut I believe. When I first got the car, I read in the manual that they were supposed to be shut, so I checked them. I had hardly put -any- force on them when I hit the stops and 2 of 3 just snapped right off. I was told not to worry about them since they should be shut. My idle speed regulator is brand-new. Like everything else....and it is humming. I'm definitely keen on trying new things so I'll do it. By the way, is there a specific direction it should be installed? I wouldn't think so, because when it's open it's open and closed is closed. Either way air is going to flow or not depending on the valve position but you never know... So if it's only supposed to be in there one way let me know. After reading that last dude's article where his idle reg was stuck shut, I'm all for trying it out. I have been holding down the gas pedal 1/4 of the way. I even tried yet another trick Bill at DMCH told me. I disabled the ignition to see if the spark was so retarded (early) that it was impeding the upward stroke of the pistons. Alas, it was not to be. It had no effect. Thanks guys, keep 'em coming. I'm not quitting yet. --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxx> wrote: > You can achieve the same thing by unscrewing the brass screws by approx > 2 turns each on the rear two and 4 on the front one. This allows air to > bypass the throttles. > > Martin > > therealdmcvegas wrote: > > >A weak ignition coil will most definatly keep the motor from turning over. But > >there is another thing that will keep the motor from firing up: Lack of air. > > > >Unlike a carbed motor, the idle is not controled by the fuel delivery system, but > >by another computer. If nothing else, try bypassing the Idle Speed Motor, and > >run a straight tube between the two connections. > >