Radiator bleed barb

["content22207" <brobertson@xxxx>]

Re: removing radiator bleed line:

If you've got an original radiator, be VERY gentle removing bleed
line. Is a thin walled plastic barb, brittle with age and heat. I'd
recommend cutting hose rather than trying to pull off intact (cooling
hoses tend to weld themselves to fittings). Despite my best efforts,
ended up cracking mine. If you suffer same, don't worry is repairable.
Plastic side channel alone won't hold a brass barb, but you can tap
entire way through (is only 1/2" deep at that point), glue in a nipple
pipe with access hole drilled into side (be sure to match hole with
radiator bleed galley! Blow air backwards through it -- also ensures
adhesive isn't fouling hole), seal one end with a cap and attach barb
to other. To ensure mine stays put, and water tight, spent one week
layering JB Weld over repair. Make a form from card stock and the
epoxy comes out looking pretty good (vs looking like a melted candle).

Never did like radiator bleed line dropping down so sharply, or
venting back into main coolant pipe, so I rerouted mine horizontally
to a Tee in heater core return line (junction pipe was replaced with
hose). 

Biggest question Re: cooling system problem -- what is your location?
If you live in an area with high mineral content in the water, or if
you use a surface well, do not ever use straight tap water in a
cooling system. Deposits WILL thoroughly clog it up, especially
radiator and thermostat.

Other Bozo No-No is Stop Leak. Evil stuff. Super glue for tiny
radiator passages -- what will they think of next?

Bill Robertson
#5939