Re: frame rot

["fivetwofive" <CBL302@xxxx>]

--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Mark Fearer <mfearer@xxxx> wrote:
> Hello. I understand that the frame is a dual wishbone. What common 
areas
> should one inspect when checking their frame for rust?
> 
> Mark Fearer
> vin 3072
> Manchester, New Hampshire

Mark,

Being a New Englander myself,and knowing the harsh winters here(and 
worse in your area)the number one place to check is in the front at 
ALL the weld points in and around the crush tube area,number two area 
is the space between the gas tank and the frame,as salt and sand 
collects there,and is not easily dislodged,number three,is inside the 
main body of the frame where the motor mounts attach as that is 
another cavity where moisture/salt collects,and rusts the frame from 
the inside out,you must remember the areas where the frame tends to 
rust out is the area(s)where the frame was made from the thinnest 
metals,and being made out of mild steel,does not help it out any,BUT 
then you must remember,just how many cars from that time ERA,(81-83)
are still around without any frame rust in the New England area,JZD 
had a good idea at the time about,epoxy coating the frame,it just was 
NOT a good idea to put it on a mild steel flexible frame as found on 
the Delorean.Basically the frame was so flexible,that I remember in 
the early eighties,doing a ground up/frame off restoration on a 
Delorean,and when I pulled the body off the frame,ONE of the front 
wheels,was off the ground,as the shocks were frozen in place 
there,but because of the double Y of the frame,the frame was in a 
suspended twist,until I removed the frozen shocks,then the frame 
reverted back to normal.Meaning every time that the DMC frame
(suspension)hit(s) a bad bump,or you jack up the car wrong,you either 
put a hairline crack in your epoxy(OR even your WINDSHIELD)which when 
cracked(the epoxy)will only get worse over time and expose your mild 
steel frame to the elements.

Hope this helps
Claude
00570