[no subject]

[elvisnocita@xxxx]

Robert,
interesting, we had more or less the same idea with the individual time to
only unlock
or unlock and open the door. After I started to build that thing myself I
thought again and 
decided that this would be too dangerous. I wanted a safe system ! 

Opening the doors independent from unlocking
opening each single door 
no door opening via remote possible when ingnition/ Motor is on !!!!!
the least possible amount of electronical parts in the doors as possible, 
as they could fail and open the door again at 120mph...
no extra drainig of the battery when in standby (one remote system is needed
of course)
small current to open.
no extra wires into the doors
low wight (no relays and stuff in the door)
As resistant against EMI as possible (cell phone rings, door opens.....)


This all lead me to the idea not to couple the existing locking system with
the door opener.
There's a yellow/white spare wire which end directly where to mount the
actuator and it ends
below the T-panel. So there's no extra wire to mount into the door beside
the ground connection
to the lock-solenoid. But I had to drill a hole from under the rear
headliner to get two wires inside 
the roof. and that's the hardest job at all...if you have already installed
new headliners a few 
months ago.
These two wires are connected to the yellow/white wires and two extra relays
which are themselves
driven by a modern Alarm/remote system with at least two aux channels. A
third relay will inhibit the system from opening the doors when ignition is on.

Another thing against rising the ON time of the door lock solenoids is the
large current they drain.
It's about 15A each plus a second solenoid or actuator to unlock (again 5-10
A !!!). So almost 50A altogether !!!

When talking about mounting points I thought there wold be already holes to
mount the actuator. But there aren't. I killed three drill bits for two holes
into the SS ! :-(

There are many ways to install such a system, but I think this way is the
cleanest solution.
No plug and play though.

What you thought to be +12V from the defogger switch are the 12V for the
mirror heating 
which aren't used. But they only have 12V when key is turned.
But there are +12V for the door lights which are always hot, so this could
be used somehow, you are absolutely right.

I mean - build it like you want because just to have that feature is soooo
cool ;-)

Regards,

Elvis & 6548


> Now this would only be speculation on my part on how the Zilla system will
> 
> work, but it's really not a problem at all to wire up a trigger using
> existing wiring, and not having to splice a thing. It just all depends
upon how the
> setup would be. The trigger could be the unlock wire feed. Unlock the
door, and
> the lock solenoid slides the lock back. A timer chip (or possible a
capacitor/
> bleeder resistor set up) inside circuit is set to only trigger the
> secondary solenoid if it recieves the signal for a longer period of time
than what
> the primary lock solenoid recieves. Hit the open door feature on the key
fob,
> and it sends an unlock signal for like double the time than is normally
required,
> and thus the secondary solenoid is triggered, and the door is opened!
> 
> Since this kind of a setup would entail controls for opening doors
> individually, I don't see why the engineering couldn't be added in to
also unlock the
> doors one at a time (what I would consider a HUGE improvement to personal

> safety). Connecting things would be totally simple. The feed wire would 
> simply be a double-ended connector that would simplty plug in between both
> 
> the lock solenoid, and the wiring harness. The ground wire would probably 
> just hook up to the door frame where the bellcrank solenoid mounts onto
> the door (yes, there is an existing mounting spot available). It wouldn't
be a
> problem at all.
> 
> Now the only question that I have would be if a single wire could power 2 
> seperate solenoids at once. There is a dedicated 12V feed wire in the
> doors, but I can't remember if the car schematics show it connected to
the rear 
> defroster swtich, or to the ignition wire. So that means that it isn't
> continuous. 
> But I'm pretty sure that I once tested it, and it was continuous on my
> car, and I got voltage with the key out. I'd have to check that. If it
is, then
> you've got a dedicated feed to the bellcrank solenoid, and then you
wouldn't have to
> worry about feeding two solenoids off the same wire. If not, perhaps the
> coupling inside of the car is easy to reach to convert it over. But using
a
> seperate feed wire, you could set up a 555 timer chip, and send lower
voltage, faster
> pulses thru the trigger wire that would be picked up by the timer chip to
trigger
> the bellcrank solenoid, but couldn't be used to activate the door lock
> solenoid to avoid power drains on the system.
> So yes, a door launch kit could indeed be installed on the car, and not a 
> single wire would need to be cut. Then only things you'd need to sacrifice
> are some fir tree clips, and some time to possibly adjust the torsion
bars,
> and to possibly lubricate the internal locking mechanisms and connection
rods (to
> 
> lessen the loads on the bellcrank solenoids). Desert cars may not have
> rust, but that dust certainly gets everywhere in our cars! And when it
gets into
> locking mechanisims, they become harder to turn.
> 
> -Robert
> vin 6585 "X"

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