Re: Steering Wheel

["David Teitelbaum <jtrealty@xxxx>" <jtrealty@xxxx>]

I only mentioned the nut because sometimes I have done dumb things so 
I try to pass on my experience so everyone can benefit from it. Even 
experienced mechanics do stupid things. Everyone needs to realize that 
ANYONE can make a mistake or overlook the obvious.
Getting back to business, don't drill out and tap to M8. Use a thread 
insert and stay with either M6 or 1/4-20. (For these screws going into 
the metal of the wheel itself a course thread is stronger so don't tap 
to a fine thread.) The reason is if you were to strip out the M8 now 
what are you going to do? A thread insert is much stronger then the 
metal of the wheel and should be alright at M6. It is very important 
that the screws going into the wheel are long enough and are FULLY 
threaded into the wheel so they won't pull out. Again the "pulling" 
screw in the puller should be a fine thread to get the most power and 
control in removing the wheel. An excellant tip also is to mark the 
position of the wheel on the shaft so you can put it back on and it 
points straight ahead when you are done. Swipe some old red nail 
polish from your significant other, it works great, just a tiny dab on 
the wheel and the shaft. You might have to answer some odd questions 
if someone sees it in your toolbox though!!!! There is no torque spec 
for the steering wheel nut so get it tight but not overly tight, the 
wheel is a taper fit so it doesn't really need to be "gorrilla'd" on 
tight. Heat isn't going to help you here, you can't get it hot enough 
to make a difference without damaging everything nearby. Penetrating 
lubricant won't help either because of the taper fit. If you can't 
loosen it up the next step is to drill holes in a circular pattern 
around the shaft and then beat the wheel off destroying the steering 
wheel so get it off with the puller.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita@xxxx> 
wrote:
> What ? I have to loosen the big nut first ?
> Damn that's why it didn't move at all...
> 
> No, really, the thread of the M6 wasn't strong enough and I pulled 
the whole
> thread out !
> I will try to use M8 bolts and heat it up with a heat gun the next 
time.
> Last time I also used a lead hammer which I normally use to open the 
large
> nuts of
> my other cars spoke wheels.
> 
> Thanks for the many replies
> 
> Elvis
> 
> P.S: Hey Mike, how's weather down there under your car ?
> 
> 
> Elvis,
> Since you have the M6 screws, use them in conjunction with a
> steering wheel puller and you will be fine. I used 1/4 inch screws 
and
> re-threaded them. My advice is to have them be at least 5 inches 
(12.5 cm)
> long, otherwise the puller will not get close enough to lock in to 
the
> wheel.
> 
> Good luck,
> Matthew
> VIN #'s 10365 and 16816