Re: Trailing Arm Bolt Replacement.

["David Teitelbaum <jtrealty@xxxx>" <jtrealty@xxxx>]

You CANNOT hold the rear of the car up by the trailing arms or the
rear tires to do this. You MUST hold the rear of the car up by the frame.
Loosen the bolts first and rotate the head of the bolt with a wrench.
If it is straight the trailing arm won't move around. If it does you
may have to slice the bolt up into several pieces to get it out if it
is bent. If the shims are "munched up" you should replace them. The
Toby TAB"S should have come with a torque spec. You may have to get a
kit for the shields, the little bolts tend to break. Rob Grady has a
kit of a strip with 3 studs attached to fix that. While in there look
around for anything that doesn't look "koscher" meaning loose,
missing, out of place, rusty, cut, etc. In particular inspect the
brake hoses and pads, C/V boots (4) exhaust system, and oil and
coolant leaks on the motor. As long as you are there you should also
check the trans level and flush the brakes and clutch. If the car has
never had an alignment (or if you just don't know) you should have a
good 4 wheel alignment done by a shop that knows how to use their
machine. Inspect the short rubber hose on the fuel accumulater, they
are getting old and many are showing their age by cracking. You don't
need to grease the bolts, under normal conditions they shouldn't move.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 



--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "therealdmcvegas <DMCVegas@xxxx>"
<DMCVegas@xxxx> wrote:
> Saturday morning, I plan on replacing the Trailing Arm Bolts on my
car, along 
> with the rubber bushings as well. Does anyone have any tips before I
start in 
> on this job? BTW, it's a 5-Speed.
> 
> Also, what specificly should I torque the TABs to? So far, I've seen
50-55, and 
> have even heard 60lbs. Which one is correct? And what should I
torque the 
> bolts to hold the bushings in place to? And of course, are there any
nuts or 
> bolts that I should consider replacing as well? I have a set of
Toby-TABs that 
> I'm just now getting around to installing, and they came with new
nuts, and 2 
> washers each.
> 
> I have read that I should count the washers, and reinstall to keep the 
> alignment correct, and that I should grease the bolts where they'll
make 
> contact with the steel sleeves in the rubber bushings too.
> 
> Since I don't have a lift to place the car on, will ramps for the
rear wheels 
> work? And if not, what should I use? Gut feeling tells me that the
job needs to 
> be done, and soon. Rear clunking is getting worse along with traction. 
> Especially after I turned a corner and hit a VERY nasty pothole. It
sounded 
> worse than it felt, but was enough to trip my inertia switch!
> 
> Thanks in advance!
> 
> -Robert
> vin 6585 "X"