Re: Idle/tune-up/vacuum/oil BING!!

["content22207" <brobertson@xxxx>]

Could you ask a few MORE questions in ONE post...

I just replaced my cap/rotor/wires/etc. Found access very easy by
removing upper air assembly (with fuel distributor still attached). Is
only held on by 3 bolts (two 6mm's through brackets on the intake
manifolds and a 10 or so through the butterflies). Also took
opportunity to relocate idle speed motor in less congested part of
engine compartment (makes access to spark plug 4 MUCH easier). I
simply capped off the original supply line and gave the motor its own
breather.

My particular PRV has the idle speed motor hard wired too (courtesy of
Goober, the friendly neighborhood Volvo mechanic -- I'm burning a
replacement block). Microswitch is missing altogether. Except for
additional wear on motor, presents no problems. Experimented running
car without it: no sweat, just adjust bypass screws otherwise not
"f_cked with", but you do need to set rather high to compensate for
A/C compressor load. I decided was smoothest to put the motor back in
(now screwed to the side of the compartment).

Assuming my throttle assemby is stock, idle speed can be at least
partially set with a bolt & lock nut that cracks the butterflies. The
screw you speak of between the air plate and fuel distributor is a
mixture screw (it adjusts plunger movement within the fuel
distributor). Mixture is also adjusted on the fly by a frequency valve
(also missing on my PRV -- gee Goob, loose anything else while you
were in there, like a wrench inside one of the manifolds?). I could
point out that a LEAN mixture burns hotter than a rich one, but risk
angry replies from DMLer's who think otherwise.

When you replace your vacuum hoses, I suggest using fuel line rather
than traditional hose. It'll hold up MUCH better. If your car idles
smooth already, you probably don't have any leaks. Vacuum leaks show
up at idle, and there's nothing like 'em (pull one of your current
hoses loose and you'll see what I mean).

Unless you've got mold (don't laugh, I did, courtesy of a pinched A/C
evaporator box drain tube) the only green substances in your car
should be antifreeze and freon. Since freon evaporates very quickly,
that narrows your choices. Antifreeze outside the engine is bad. As
Martin G observed in another thread, is a symptom of another
potentially large problem. Exactly where are you finding this residue?

Bill Robertson
#5939