Re: Something else to start a fire

["content22207" <brobertson@xxxx>]

Assuming you speak of standard full size blade fuses, the test
contacts are slightly recessed. Seems unlikely they'd contact a flat
sheet of (painted) metal.

What size wire were you using? Blade assemblies come as small as 16
gauge -- way too small for 20 amp circuits. In fact, did you have two
separate 20 amp lines? And was your circuit breaker still in the
circuit? If so, why didn't it trip?

Am slightly puzzled about "nice job" bypass. Usually you don't have to
cut anything -- just replace relay with two fused lines, one for each
fan (relay socket is standard size blade). Did your dealer try to rig
guts of the original relay? Were correct lines (plural) used in and out?

Not long ago I substituted 10 amp fuses in my 12 gauge bypasses
(curiosity). Blew both the instant otterstat engaged. Don't have
beaucoups 15 amp, so haven't experimented with those yet. I could
argue that correctly wired 20 amp bypasses are every bit as safe as a
"fixes", but that usually generates excited negative feedback...

Bill Robertson
#5939

> In place of the original fan-fail module I had two orange wires with
inline
> fuses in heavy rubber housing. The wires for the module had been
clipped,
> the module base removed. The in-line fuses (blade style) were put in
with
> crimps and heat-shrink. It was a very nice job. I figure it was probably
> done by the dealer (Crest Chevrolet in socal).

> I believe that the little bit of fuse that shows across the top of
the fuse
> (for checking it's status) grounded against the metal pan of the
> compartment.
> This theory is supported, I think, by the fact that the bottom fuse
appeared
> to have been closer to the pan, was mostly consumed on the "hot"
side of the
> wire.
>