Re: Starting help

["content22207" <brobertson@xxxx>]

I've only had my car home two weeks (with issues of its own), but
here's a few tidbits I've learned in that short time:

The fuel pump does operate until it gets a signal that the engine is
running. There's a short burst when the car is first energized (I
guess to prime the system), but then it's just you and the accumulator
until the RPM relay turns it loose. Your throttle action with the cold
start valve jumped may be misleading -- you could be living off gas
that was injected directly into the manifold, not vaporized gas from
the fuel distributor.

By repeatedly cranking with the cold start injector jumped you may be
flooding the engine. A properly functioning thermal switch only
grounds it for a short time. That could be the source of your "rough
running" until all the extra gas (liquid) is consumed. Throttle action
there may be the only thing keeping it running (air). Over reliance on
the cold start injector could foul the plugs too -- it's a potent
enough brew to smell.

Re: wandering idle -- can't help you there because I'm missing the
gizmo DeLorean used to adjust automatically (idle speed regulator?).
Have seen a stock vehicle in action, however, and the car does indeed
search for an "optimum" setting. I think it accomplishes this with
air, not actually pressing on the throttle lever (there's a device
there too, but I think its only a switch -- also missing from my
rendition).
Is your idle speed circuit OK? Anybody know if the gizmo can be
deactivated on a factory engine?

When you replaced the pump did you replace its boot? The old one can
crumble while in the tank. If not caught by the fuel filter, those
pieces will end up in your fuel distributor or injectors. The DeLorean
vendors aren't just being rententive here -- replace them together.

Folks with years of experience will hopefully respond with more/better. 

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews@xxxx, kkoncelik@xxxx wrote:
> OK 
> here is a problem 
> Not on my car its for someone else
> I think I have an idea what it is so here goes.
> 
> The car will not start cold (or hot for that matter) 
> When starting the car nothing happens. 
> The fuel tank has been recently changed out and the fuel does flow
and seems 
> to be working ok ( fuel pump working )
> 
> If I change the connectors for the cold start fuel injector and
energize it 
> (switch the blue and light green connectors) it starts indicating
fuel is 
> getting in at that point but it does not stay running.
> 
> Assumption the fuel distributor may be sticking a bit.
> 
> Now if I start the car with the wires switched and give it a little
gas pedal 
> (although this really should not help) it stays running some times. The 
> starting process may need three four or five times to start.
> 
> It runs real rough and sounds like (no pun intended) its not running
on all 
> cylinders.
> After maybe 30 seconds to three minutes it begins to clear up and
you can hit 
> the accelerator a bit more and then a bit more.
> Then it Revs and the everything is fine and it idles great and you
can shut 
> it off and start it as long as you don't let it set for a few
minutes. (five 
> min. minimum) 
> Then you repeat the process.
> 
> I haven't had time to run fuel pressures or anything like that but I am 
> assuming it is possible a sticking fuel distributor. The car does
no run a 
> lot.
> 
> Wires and plugs are old and will be replaced but if they were
totally trash 
> then the car would not start anyway. (Have the parts and plan to
rebuild)
> 
> Unlikely water in the distributor cap (Car is in the desert)
> 
> I have eliminated the accumulator as it has been replaced not to
long ago and 
> the problem is more a cold start.
> 
> The fuel pump appears to be working but I really need to do a
pressure check.
> 
> The cold start thermal switch is shot, that is a given and why the
crossing 
> of wires works.
> 
> Are there any other thoughts at what may cause this.
> It appears to be a fuel starvation situation but then it corrects
itself and 
> purrs like a DeLorean with no stalling or hesitation. That is the
confusing 
> part. Teh above problems all would or should continue to persist no
matter 
> how hot it gets.
> 
> That is where the distributor theory gets shot down.
> 
> thanks 
> 
> Ken 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]