Door Lock Module

["checksix3" <checksix3@xxxx>]

The stock lock module can be made very reliable with a few simple 
mods, all of which Martin has mentioned. The switches and linkages in 
the doors must also be adjusted properly if you want total confidence 
in the system. (Btw, Martin is right about the wiring, the red wire 
only powers the solenoids and not the module.)

If you're still concerned about burned out solenoids, here is a 
simple and effective fix that I implemented when I rewound my 
solenoids and modified the module: Change the CB to a manual 
resettable one of a much lower rating.

The solenoids pull 10 amps per coil (either locking or unlocking)
for a total of 20 amps. This happens for less than 1 second during 
operation. Since the solenoids are intermitant duty, they will fry 
in a certain time. (say 30 seconds for the sake of this explaination.)

Use a thermal CB of 5 to 7 amps. (I like the Potter & Brumfield
W58 series or the Texas Instrument "klixon" series, both readily 
available.) Since these are thermal CBs, the specs are something
like: "trip at 150% in 30 minutes or trip at 400% in 15 seconds." 
(examples only, you get the idea.)

We can use this hysteresis to our advantage by using a much lower 
rated 5 or 7 amp CB to replace the stock breaker. You will be able to 
cycle the locks normally without nusiance tripping. If you continue 
to repeatable cycle the locks in a short time period (why would you 
do this?), the CB will trip after 10 cyles or so and must be manually 
reset. If your solenoids remain energized due to a fult in the lock 
module, this CB will take them off line in 15 seconds or so. (You can 
still open the car with the key or the handle if this happens.)

In testing, my 5 amp P & B CB tolerates appox 10 rapid cycles before 
heating to the point of tripping, yet I have never had a single trip 
during "normal" lock/unlock operations. The CB rating can be played 
with as long as you don't exceed the time for solenoid burn up. I 
used 30 seconds for this, which I think is generous. (I would not go 
above a 10 amp CB.) Since bimetallic thermal CBs are pretty much 
immune to transients, thats not an issue here.

This way you will never burn up your solenoids or drain your battery 
if the module fails, which it should never do if you accomplish the 
other simple mods Martin mentioned.

Lockzilla? Its OK, but why do many assume what you can do yourself is 
inferior? This ain't rocket science folks. But its your choice and 
your money, I don't care either way.