Re: [DML] Door CATCH adjustment procedure

[Christian Williams <delorean@xxxx>]

>From what Rob told me at the NCDMC meet, there is an "upgrade" that you
can do to the striker pins so that you have a greater range of adjustment.
I believe he said that the later cars were built with this upgrade done
already.

The gist of it is that you cut away the fiberglass so that the striker
pins can be screwed in further. You then use shims to set the depth just
right. You also end up with a bit more vertical and horizontal room to
play with also (I believe). The cutaways are then covered with rubber
boots.

Rob told me that he has made up some sort of pattern to trace onto wood
and then cut out. These wooden templates then help you find exactly how
much of the fiberglass should be cut out.

The tortion bar adjustment is a different thing. This should be done if
AFTER replacing your struts your doors are still sagging. That's what the
eBay item is referring to also.

I also have a problem with my passenger door hitting the striker pins
quite hard when closing the door. I believe the striker pin update would
take care of this, but I still haven't heard back from Rob on obtaining
the pattern and any possible instructions that he has for the procedure.

-Christian

On Fri, 15 Mar 2002, stevepeck1 wrote:

> I need a door strike adjustment procedure. Does this involve bending
> the DOORS? My driver's door bangs the aluminum receiver into the
> catch post (sorry for the incorrect part names) and has worn a groove
> into it. It also requires quite a bit of OOMPH to get it to shut.
>