Re: [DML] New Frame

["dmcman82" <srubano@xxxx>]

Few concerns that I have: 

> I can't say this is fact or merely opinion, but I hear that part 
of the reason why the epoxy tends to crack on these frames so bad is 
because the frames are flimsy.

This isn't the reason that the epoxy flakes off. The frames are NOT 
flimsy it just the epoxy was coated on to thick and after so many 
years has lost it's ability to "flex" with the chassis. Every 
chassis is designed to flex with the car as you drive, no frame 
should be built to stay put. Same with bridges, buildings, etc. 
Anything which is exposed to force has got to be designed to flex 
with it...otherwise...SNAP!

> On the other hand, I've had another list member tell me that a 
stainless frame would be a really dangerous thing to do because it would 
rust anyway and be too strong in an accident.

Stainless Steel is indeed strong but brittle.

>As for being too strong in an
> accident, PDC claims that the crumple zones in the front are 
properly designed to absorb energy just as well or better than the OEM 
frame.

This has never been proven. Unless PDC has conducted some tests on 
it (driving the car insot a wall, etc.) then do not take the word of 
someone selling the product. I fear that since the Stainless Steel 
is brittle that it will shear/shatter/not crumple properly in an 
accident. Unfortunatley no one will find out until it actually 
happens to someone.

>After removing bent bolts from two cars, I certainly wasn't excited 
about putting the same kind of bolt back on. (May God richly bless Toby! That 
man may be responsible for saving some lives already.) I don't feel that I 
am wasting any money on this car.

The original bolts bent because they may have "rode out". Meaning 
the nut loosened causing some slack. It is recomended to double nut 
the bolts to eliminate this problem. Although seeing as Toby came up 
with stronger ones that would be even better ;).

As for painting the Stainless steel you would not be able to do that 
unless you acid etched the stainless before hand to prep it.

I went a different route...I sand blasted my old frame and recoated 
it with POR-15 paint. Saved ALOT of money and the frame will be 
around another 20+ years. Every rodder and restorer I've spoken too 
swears by POR-15...used it on every one of their projects. It will 
flex with the chassis and will NOT crack and it will not chip. If a 
chip does occer then the rust will only appear where the metal is 
exposed and not travel under the coating like is did with the epoxy.

If you wanted to perform an engine swap then i would have saved the 
money you spent on the frame and went with an engine. If done right 
the frame can handle it as Darryl has proven with is Chevy engine 
swap and how the other guys proved with the caddy Northstar engine. 
If your front end was that badly damaged then you could have just 
simply purchased the front end extension from Rob at PJ Grady and 
replaced the old damaged extension. 

IMHOP,
Steve