Re: [DML] Re: TA bolt incedence!

["Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxx>]

> When torquing the TA bolts to 55 ft/lbs (with the weight of the car on the
> suspension) I am assuming that you hold the nut stationary. When double
> nutting the TA bolt, what do you torque the second nut to?

The way I did mine was I held the bolt still and torqued the nut. Doing it
the other way by holding the nut still and torquing the bolt would give an
inaccurate reading because in addition to the tightening torque, you are
also measuring the friction forces of the bolt turning inside of the
washers, sleeve, spacers, etc. I have an automatic transmission which makes
space in there even more cramped. To measure torque, I used a crowfoot
socket on my torque wrench which throws in another variable, but there was
no room to get a real socket in there.

According to DMC Joe, torque the first nut on the TAB to 60 ft-lbs. Then
tighten the lock nut to 55 ft-lbs. I think I remember hearing him say that
going much tighter than 60 will begin to crush the sleeve in the rubber
bushing.

I didn't bother double nutting the front (of the pair of bolts) that hold
the bushings to the frame. Again, there was no room to work. The OEM
configuration didn't have them there either (on the automatic).

I hate to think that anyone would trust an alignment shop to do this work.
I had Sears check my alignment. They told me to remove one shim on one side
to make it perfect. Now I'm reluctant to do this because I don't want to
fatigue the bolt by retorquing it a second time. Since Sears seemed
competent with the DeLorean, I trusted them with my truck and they ROYALLY
screwed it up (long off topic story). I will NEVER trust a shop again.
Period. If anyone can suggest an alignment procedure for toe-in that can be
done at home, I'd like to know it. I've used string and measuring tapes
with reasonable accuracy. Reg Pearce who makes the SS frames told me he
aligned his with straight 2x4's as a guide. He had Sears check it
afterwards and it was just right.

Walt Tampa, FL