It sounds like "Jack the Ripper" was the last electrician to work on your car! If it is the # 12 courtesy fuse that is still blowing you have to also check the following Luggage compartment Engine compartment Glove box The Purple wire @ the engine diagnostic plug These are all areas where the Purple power is fed from #12. A problem on ANY Purple wire will cause it to blow. Since it is supposed to be on (hot) all of the time a short, even a small one, will kill the battery. The switch for the engine, luggage, glove box, all ground the circuit so that means it is hot in the lamps. A short in the lamps will ground the circuit even if the switch is disconnected. The lamp housings are known to melt so it is best if you open them up and see if the problem is inside. The squeek might be an idler pulley bearing. There is no cure short of replacing the inexpensive bearings. The belt shouldn't be so loose as to squeek. A quick test is to use a spray bottle filled with water and squirt it on the belt. If the squeek goes away you found it, if it doesn't spray a little on the bearings. If that does it you now know what you have to do. Make sure the belt runs straight. I have seen alternators installed that the belt doesn't run straight especially if someone put the wrong alternator on and didn't line things up. The windows are not supposed to be powered when the ignition is off.The windows draw power from the #11 fuse (lgw) which also supplies power to the clock and radio and console illumination. At this point it would be helpful to know the vin or at least if you have the separate clock in the console. There are some differences in the wiring between the early and later cars. It would be best for you to get an inexpensive test light and learn how to use it. Car wiring is simple if you learn some basics. David Teitelbaum vin 10757 --- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Adam Price" <acprice1@xxxx> wrote: > Thanks for the help!! I did check my door switches, and they were a > mess! They were loose and one of the upper connectors was contacting > the lower one, creating the short. I straightened everything, > tightened everything and insulated some additional areas of the > connectors, now my "open door" telltale goes off and on as it should > and the sporadic current through the courtesies circuit is no more! > > How ever this still doesnt explain why the courtesies fuse kept > popping. [quote trimmed by moderator]