--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxx> wrote: > Can you post some pictures to the vault? > What was the cost of the components? > Can you use the stock fuel pump? > How about writing a how to article for DMCNEWS, perhaps the Moderators can > add a section in Tech for Modifications. DMC-12 Bosch CIS to Multiport EFI conversion. Bosch CIS systems are almost entirely based on 1960's era technology, and rely on a mechanical air flow meter to monitor engine load and regulate fuel delivery. Most people agree that these air flow meters pose a formidable intake restriction and rob anywhere from 10% to 15% of available engine horse power. HP is directly related to the volumetric efficiency of the engine, and the PRV can move a bit more air when the CIS air flow meter flap is not in the way. I used the Racetech Simple Digital Systems (www.sdsefi.com) EM3D. There is no need for a laptop for programming. It has a well written easily understood technical manual and documentation, a nice intelligent website, and a growing user community with a forum for SDS at http://network54.com/Hide/Forum/150383 . There is plenty of friendly and knowledgable technical expertise available from both Ross and Barry at Racetech. Plus the SDS EM3D is attractively priced. Since I've never driven a CIS powered Delorean, I can't say anything about my impressions concerning potential horse power increases. Also I've not put the car on a dyno. All tuning ( of which very little has been required ) has been done on the street. Here are the details about what I used, and how it was done. The injectors I used are low impedance Bosch part number 280-150-812, which also cross reference according to Borg Warner to 280-150-828 and 280-150-829. Borg Warner part number 57172. Chrysler part number 4467050, INP-012, J0260675, MD116218, MD132249, MD141131, MD156661, and MD157740. They can be found in the Dodge/Chrysler/Plymouth Mitsubishi 3.0 V6 from a Dynasty 88-92, Caravan 89-91, Lebaron etc. They are also listed as the same injectors that were used in the Eagle Premier 3.0 Z7X-715 PRV V6 91-92. I choose the Bosch which are characterized by a concave aluminum injector tip. The junk yards are full of them. The Bosch electronic injectors fit the existing 14 mm CIS injector ports which is very nice. Tips are recessed 20 MM above the intake tract within the 12 mm lower diameter of the injector port. The 30 degree injector spray pattern does not seem to impinge on the lower port. Mine came from the scrap yard for $10.00 a piece and had to be cleaned and tested. Low impedance Injectors (2.5 ohms) can be tested with mineral spirits, a standard fuel injection pump, filter, 43 psi regulator, and 12 volts DC with an appropriate ballast resitor (like from a 914/4 Porsche), or when 3 or more injectors are run in series. For my used injectors I ran and flushed them backwards first to clean the internal filters. I tried to run no more than 30 seconds at a time and avoided overheating the injectors. I understand Bosch injectors can take a lot of abuse. I checked for leaks and an even spray pattern. I've read that leaks should be no more than 2 drops per minute. This is also a good way to find how much an injector actually flows. Injector flow rates influence ECU programming pulse width values, and flow rates are NOT published. So for other applications you've got to figure out what you've got before you set up your baseline ECU program values. The 280-150-812 Bosch injectors work very nicely with reasonable duty cycle values in the normally aspirated PRV 2.8. Racetech was very helpful with this. The fuel pressure regulator is from a Nissan 280 ZX,1981 which runs at 43 psi. Beck Arnley 158-0091 or Borg Warner 21710 . Also available at Autozone for about $43.00. It uses 5/16 inch barb fittings and mounts nicely to the forward right corner of the air flow meter housing. You can run vacuum from the line that went to the old Control Pressure regulator. The Fuel Accumulator you can remove or keep. It doesn't matter. I kept the Original Delorean Bosch fuel pump, delivery lines to the engine compartment and return line plumbing. I kept the original fuel filter and ran R9 MPI fuel line hose form the fuel filter banjo fitting directly to the front LH brass hose barb fitting on the new left hand fuel rail. I removed the CIS Control Pressure Regulator, the delay valve from the Control pressure regulator vacuum line and routed the line to the 280 ZX fuel pressure regulator. The Cold Start Valve was removed. You can plug the end of the cold start enrichment tube, or make a simple fitting to run the MAP sensor from. This is a nice place to pick up the MAP because it is balanced to all cylinders and orificed at the factory. Otherwise there is another factory 1/8 inch NPT fitting available at the right rear corner of the intake manifold. I removed the Frequency Valve and optionally you can remove the Delorean Bosch Lambda ECU. I removed the upper half of the airflow meter housing, the fuel distributor, gutted the upper air flow meter housing, and plugged all the openings left after the fuel distributor, meter flap and pivot had been removed. Then I reinstalled the gutted upper air flow meter housing. If you're looking for an easier way to do this you can simply remove the screw that holds the round air meter flap to the pivot arm and leave everything else in place. Then all you've got to do is plug the hole where the fuel distributor used to mount. This way you don't even have to remove the meter housing. I used a standard GM V-6 1 bar, three wire map sensor. Borg Warner # EC1602, or the one available from Racetech. They are almost all the same. Mounted with the orifice facing down. The Air Temp Sensor was provided by Racetech, and is mounted in the factory original 1/8 inch NPT plug located in the left rear corner of the intake manifold. The Engine Temp Sensor is also provided by Racetech. I removed the thermostat drain plug located in the water pump thermostat housing directly below the thermostat on the engine side of the thermostat and drilled and tapped the plug for 1/8 inch NPT. For the Distributor and Advance, I retained the existing vacuum advance solenoid, micro switch on the throttle body and the entire ignition system. The PRV is an ODD FIRE V-6, so tach signals from the Bosch ignition ECU to the ignition coil are uneven. The Racetech SDS ECU is driven off of this signal, which is picked up at the coil terminal # 1. The SDS EM3D ECU is a "batch" injection system. Injectors fire at the same time, not sequentially, and the fuel charge hangs around in the intake manifold by the intake valve until it's needed. Odd fire does not seem to be a problem since the programmed RPM values I'm using for most of the RPM ranges are the same or very flat. RPM values at the SDS ECU do seem to hunt a bit sometimes but never more than 3 RPM ranges. If you're really concerned about triggering the SDS ECU off of the ODD FIRE coil, then you can opt to install a HALL effect triggering system off the crank pulley. Mine runs very nicely off the tach signal. I kept the original Bosch O2 Lambda Sensor. The Racetech SDS ECU can be programmed to run in closed loop lambda mode between high and low map values and high and low rpm values that you can set, using the existing single wire or a newer 3 wire O2 sensor. Lambda closed loop can adjust your baseline values by up to + - 25%. I have CL LOW RPM LIMIT set to 1500, and CL HI RPM LIMIT set to 4500 (70% of redline). CL MAP HI is set to -6.72. CL MAP LO is set to -15.2. Talk to Barry or Ross at Racetech. You should retain the Bosch Idle Speed Motor and ECU if you can. My fuel rails are 1/8 inch NPT brass pipe. Four 4 inch nipples cut to the correct injector port center to center distances and threaded with a 1/8 inch NPT die, then assembled with 6 brass Tees. Four hose barbs, one at each end of the 2 fuel rails connect to 5/16 MPI R9 fuel injection line. The line runs from the filter to the LH front rail barb, the LH rear rail barb across the rear of the engine to the RH rear rail barb, and then from the RH front rail barb to the fuel pressure regulator. Rails are held in place by fabricated 3/4 inch wide steel brackets secured to the valve cover bolts. Fuel return is off of the right front fuel rail barb directly to the 280 ZX fuel pressure regulator. I was able to keep all of the existing Air Cleaner and pre-heat system. The fuel rails are small enough to allow the original air cleaner and intake pre heat plumbing to be retained. Air filter housing clips closest to the engine had to be relocated to the sides of the airfilter housing to avoid interferance with the new fuel rail. I used safety wire through 1/8 inch vacuum line wound to the correct length with the original clips, and then clipped them on to the upper side edges of the air filter housing. The Throttle Position Sensor is a 3 wire Potentiometer type. It is driven by the existing horizontal throttle pulley by simple heater hose and a machined aluminum fitting that mates with the tabs on the switch. An aluminum and sheet metal bracket supports the switch. My switch is off of a Ford 4 cyl courtesy of the scrap yard. Almost any will work. Racetech can provide them in clockwise or counter clockwise configurations. Delorean uses clockwise. I mounted the SDS ECU right behind the driver seat where you'll find the 3 existing OEM ECU's. Since I abandoned my Idle Speed Motor, I removed the black Bosch idle speed motor ECU which sits right on top of the metal mounting frame. The SDS ECU fits quite nicely. You can also remove the Bosch Lambda ECU if you like, and rearrange the remaing ECU's to make everything fit. Grounds are taken from the metal mounting frame itself, and switched power is picked up through a 1 amp fuse (which you must supply) to the main relay behind the passenger seat. Hot switched power for the injector harness is taken off of the HOT side of the ignition coil ballast resistor (white wire,upper right spade connector). The car passed Ohio Emissions Testing last week. I'll post some pictures once I figure out how it's done. Jim Witherspoon Vin #6147