Re: To all that know better about electricity and how to treat a first time poster...

[srubano@xxxx]

If the alternator had given out and the car was only running on the 
battery alone...and the battery meter read "0"....you wouldn't get 
very far at all, The car would stall. 

If the battery had any type of short (internally/externally) You 
would definitely smell the battery fumes from the short.

90% of battery failures in automobiles are due to the fact that the 
plates in the cells "disintegrate" over time. As they come apart the 
particles settle to the bottom of the battery. As this builds up it 
soon comes in contact with the good portion of the plates causing an 
internal short. When this happens, if your lucky to start the car the 
first time, I doubt you will be able to start the car next time. Some 
battery "Refurb" places take old batteries and flush them out to 
remove these deposits to eliminate the shorting problem.

The fact remains here that the Idea of removing the battery wire to 
test the alternators output was wrong. Every alternator has a voltage 
regulator. Some with them built internally some that have them 
externally. If the battery load is not present at all the alternator 
will begin to output it's maximum amount of voltage that it can. The 
reason for this is to charge the battery and to supply the car with 
enough power while doing so until the battery begins to hold a charge 
and levels off. If it continues to output this Max voltage, you can 
seriously harm the sensitive electronics in any car and fry the 
alternator. Next time you go and change an alternator, read that 
little red sticker that comes on every alternator that 
states "Failure to have a fully charged battery before installing can 
cause damage to the alternator and/or vehicle electrical system" 
(those may not be the EXACT words...but similar). Everyone jumped in 
like that after your post because that was a dangerous diagnostic and 
if that owner had tried it...they would have risked damaging 
something on their car. 

To properly test the alternator on a car you need a load tester. 
Harborfreight.com has one they sell for less than $30. Here's the 
link to the unit, 
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/taf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=6317

If for some reason that link doesn't work just go to their website 
and do a search on item number 6317-2VGA.

Steve
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "sk1pper" <sk1pper@xxxx> wrote:
> First I'd like to say to all that have slammed me over the 
alternator post I gave, know what you are saying and to whom you are 
saying it before you open your mouth as it were. I will give you 
credit that you probably know more about Deloreans than I, but you 
probably do not know more about electricity or low voltage systems.
> 
> Second. As a new member of this board, it is not very 
comforting to see such hostility toward a post. If a post is wrong, 
incorrect, or misleading then kindly respond to the message. The 
slamming is not indicative of a friendly chat room. I will continue 
to read the messages posted, but this will more than likely be my 
last post.
> 
> Now, lets clear the air here and state the facts and allow me 
to respond to your comments. 
> 
> The problem, as I understood it was that the battery meter was not 
reading any voltage. Four things come to mind at this point. 
> a.. One, the installation of the Tankzilla was not performed 
correctly. 
> b.. Two, the battery has a damaged cell(s) causing a direct 
short. 
> c.. Three, the alternator is not producing a charge and the car 
is running off the battery only. 
<Snip>