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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 5 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Power Mirror Switch
From: "supermattthehero" <supermatty@xxxxxxx>
2. #2696 just arrived
From: "spaceace3113" <spaceace3113@xxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: Zinc Plated Frame
From: Paul Gress <pgress@xxxxxx>
4. Re: Thinking of putting CD Player in Driver Comparment....
From: "p12c16" <p12c16@xxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: Zinc Plated Frame
From: Don Ekhoff <ekhoff@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Wed, 03 Sep 2003 02:28:49 -0000
From: "supermattthehero" <supermatty@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Power Mirror Switch
Hey there,
I have all of the pieces to mine. Can you tell me how to put it back
together? I know HOW it goes together, what I don't know is how I'm
going to get it all to 'stay' while I snap it back together. Did you
use some kind of weak glue to hold it until you got it snapped together?
thanks,
Matt Spittle
#1604
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita@xxxx> wrote:
> uuuaaah who said that ?
>
> of course it can be put back together.
> I don't have a description how to do it, but I
> fixed mine last year and had to take it completely apart.
>
>
> Elvis
>
>
> > Is there a diagram or info on how to fix the power mirror switch,
> > like the one for the defroster switch?
>
> I think everyone (except perhaps John Harvey) will tell you that the
power
> mirror switch is non-serviceable and can't be put back together.
>
> You can, however, get a 1995 Saab switch and swap it out, like I explain
> here: http://www.eskin.net/saabswitch.html
>
> -Hank #1619
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators@xxxx
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 03 Sep 2003 01:46:58 -0000
From: "spaceace3113" <spaceace3113@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: #2696 just arrived
Hi guys, I havent posted for awhile but Ive had nothing to say until
today. Well my car just got delivered from CA to PJ Gradys this
morning. Just to rehash things its the one with 89 miles, Rob said
it is remarkably preserved, inches away from concourse or rather
afew $$$. The rubber is all moist and pliable the tires are the
original NCT's still soft with no flat spots and the interior is as
new. He was also suprised to see that such an early build date has
such a nice fit and finish, the car is at his shop for the next week
or so having the recalls done. Im thinking of making it a concours
contender, even though im going to have it lowered. I just want to
thank everyone for their help and advice over this grueling process
of finding this car.....there are still some really nice cars out
there waiting to be discovered...this car was never titled until 2
months ago, Im glad to say i finally have a VIN #. See you guys at
concours
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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 02 Sep 2003 23:21:04 -0500
From: Paul Gress <pgress@xxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Zinc Plated Frame
dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
>Message: 12
> Date: Tue, 02 Sep 2003 17:42:17 -0000
> From: "anaheim_21" <anaheim_21@xxxxxxxxx>
>Subject: Zinc Plated Frame
>
>Hi there:
>
>There is a company in my area who will sandblast my, zinc coat and
>then powder coat the entire frame. Does this sound like a good way
>to restore the frame?
>
>Thanks!
>Greg
>
Greg,
This is exactly what I did. I couldn't remove the epoxy with chemicals
(paint remover), tried sand blasting, which didn't work. Asking the
galvanizing shop to dip the frame to burn off the epoxy was a no-no.
The method is very much discouraged, due to the immense amount of
smoke. The only way to remove the epoxy for me was to blast the frame
with volconic ash. This was very sharp and can cut the epoxy. The next
method was to dip the frame in zinc. There are many companies that do
this sort of thing, you can start a search in
"http://www.thomasregister.com/"; under galvanizing. To epoxy powder
coat, you need to etch the zinc for the epoxy to stick. After all this,
I still undercoated the frame.
Paul
vin 10193
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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 03 Sep 2003 03:32:44 -0000
From: "p12c16" <p12c16@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Thinking of putting CD Player in Driver Comparment....
I actually got a Qwestar RF modulated 10 disk CD player today and it is
amazing. Circuit City is selling them at $90--and it fits perfectly in
the
compartment behind the seat. The CD sound quality played great on the
original Craig radio, I never thought it would be so good. Anyway, here
is the
link in case any of you want one while they are on sale. http://
www.circuitcity.com/detail.jsp?c=1&b=b&catoid=-8866&qp=0&bookmark=
bookmark_0&oid=71107
Thanks for all of the suggestions,
Patrick
1880
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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 03 Sep 2003 00:11:18 -0700
From: Don Ekhoff <ekhoff@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Zinc Plated Frame
Greg,
It would be fabulous on the areas covered by both processes. The
problem might be that both coatings are subject to having poor coverage
where you can't see. The Zinc is an electroplate process there
electricity passing from the tank to the frame is responsible for the
coating. Where this current does not pass (line of sight) it does not
plate. The inside hidden spots would be poorly protected.
Likewise the powdercoat is applied electrostatically by puting an
electrostatic change on the frame and then dusting it with oppositely
charged powder. The powder sticks and is subsequently melted in place.
Great process but it is really hard to get into the really tight spots
where you can't see.
This might be OK if you take a few additional steps. I recently
restored a bugeye sprite that had some long stiffening "u" sections as
well as numerous boxed sections that were very vulnerable to rust from
within. After carefully blasting, priming with zinc based paint (aka:
cold galvanizing) and a good paint job I applied undercoating to the
places I couldn't get to. I rigged up a spray tip on the end of a nylon
tube. The tube was plumbed to a pressure tank filled with undercoating
(valved as required). I then carefully fed the spray tip into the blind
area, turned on the spray and slowly pulled out the tube thereby coating
places I will never be able to reach.. The goo should have not only
coated the insides but should also wick into the lap joints ( I had
thinned it some).
Powdercoat is great stuff and the zinc should only make it better.
Don Ekhoff
6543
anaheim_21 wrote:
>Hi there:
>
>There is a company in my area who will sandblast my, zinc coat and
>then powder coat the entire frame. Does this sound like a good way
>to restore the frame?
>
>Thanks!
>Greg
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
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