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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Re: Digest Number 1520 (Unhappy about the DOA and DW)
From: DBoboc9556@xxxxxxx
2. Re: Aftermarket 138db Horns.
From: "Dave Stragand" <dave.stragand@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Water pump, struts and heat shield
From: "dmc12rb" <rbrogren@xxxxxxx>
4. Re: Re: Dash Led's
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj@xxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: Alternative wheels
From: William T Wilson <fluffy@xxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Door struts (wasRe: Hood Struts)
From: "twinenginedmc12" <twinenginedmc12@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
7. Door Struts (Was: Hood Struts)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj@xxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: More questions than answers (Engine Failure)
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Dead Speedo (need tach Xrefs), dead A/C idler bearings, all other systems go
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Re: Water pump, struts and heat shield
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: Alternative wheels
From: "Donald Ekhoff" <ekhoff@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
12. Re: More questions than answers (Engine Failure)
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle@xxxxxxxxxxx>
13. I am back
From: peteh269@xxxxxxx
14. Re: Door Struts (Was: Hood Struts)
From: webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
15. Re: Water pump, struts and heat shield
From: webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
16. Recall campaign
From: sand131@xxxxxxx
17. Re: Digest Number 1520 (Unhappy about the DOA and DW)
From: "frenkieboy" <j.m.s.c.lommen@xxxxxxxxx>
18. Be in a DeLorean book! (Interview request)
From: "ryanjm10014" <ryanjm@xxxxxxx>
19. RE: Re: Dash Led's
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
20. Re: Dead Speedo (need tach Xrefs)
From: Mark Noeltner <mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
21. Re: Digest Number 1520 (Unhappy about the DOA and DW)
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
22. Painted Delorean
From: peteh269@xxxxxxx
23. Delorean Fever since 1971
From: "fivetwofive" <CBL302@xxxxxxx>
24. Re: Re: Dash Led's
From: "Mike" <mquinto@xxxxxxxxx>
25. Re: Re: current drain
From: Jonas Pitchford <Delorean3543@xxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2003 11:18:06 EDT
From: DBoboc9556@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: Digest Number 1520 (Unhappy about the DOA and DW)
I let my membership to the DOA expire soon after the local chapters were
dissolved. I had the impression that the then president, Ed Bernstein, wanted to
try to keep the club and it's activities in the southern California area to
further promote his business. There have been several people who have resigned
their positions from the club when he became president, and I'm not surprised
about that one bit considering the things I've heard from people who have done
business with him.
Dave Boboc
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2003 11:42:29 -0400
From: "Dave Stragand" <dave.stragand@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Aftermarket 138db Horns.
You can buy these super-loud horns online through my site... just go to
http://www.projectvixen.com/horns.htm Instructions are on the page.
They're only $13.49 each.
-Dave
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Tue, 03 Jun 2003 17:25:55 -0000
From: "dmc12rb" <rbrogren@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Water pump, struts and heat shield
1.
My waterpump evidently went kaput, right on a Volvo dealership
parking area. They quoted me $1450 for a new pump installation and
that is ludicrous! They also claimed that the exhaust manifold need
to be removed in order to get to the rear hose connection on the
engine. The car came back home on a dolly!
The hoses in my D are only about 6 years old, the fans, otterstat,
etc., are running fine and I believe that all I need is to verify
that the leak is in the pump and replace it. I also know that it is a
bitch of a job with the short hose at the rear, etc., but I have
never done it myself.
2.
I am also looking for recent information about the door struts. I
replaced them 2 years ago with new struts from one of the better
vendors, but they are both bad again. What's new and better and who
sells them?
I know that both subjects has been covered here several times,
although I have not followed the postings the last few months. I have
not found the information in the archive.
Is there anything in the arcives on these two subjects or do I have
to plow through all the old files?
Alternatively, does anybody have a write up and is willing to send me
a copy? Or the related archive numbers?
3.
Finally, has anybody tried the German made double layer SS heat
shield? Or has somebody come up with a better design here in the US?
Does anybody have a layout drawing?
Lotsa questions here, but any advice will be appreciated!
Roger
VIN 1074
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2003 10:57:49 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Dash Led's
Sounds interesting..
Anyone have a ready-made kit? Im feeling lazy.
--- dmc12jp <hidesuke@xxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> Hello list,
>
> First post to DML and probably the first post from
> Japan also.
>
> I would like to share my experience of LED
> conversion. I replaced the incandescent
> bulbs on the A/C panel and in some of the switches
> on the panel to LEDs. The LEDs I
> used are not the ones from Jamstrait. They were not
> available when I did the
> conversion two year ago. It would have been much
> easier with those.
<SNIP>
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Yahoo! Calendar - Free online calendar with sync to Outlook(TM).
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2003 14:51:02 -0400 (EDT)
From: William T Wilson <fluffy@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Alternative wheels
On Tue, 3 Jun 2003, jamesrguk wrote:
> The only problem is that obviously the stock wheels are considerably
> wider at the rear than at the front, when people have upgraded their
They're larger both in diameter and in width. Many cars have this
configuration, including recent Corvettes and the NSX.
> wheels have they kept the same configuration or have they
> compromised and used a set that is wider than the original front and
> slimmer than the original rear wheels.
You have to buy two sets of two wheels. The DeLorean would look silly
with the same size wheels all around, and would be prone to spin under
severe maneuvering. Commonly, 15x6 and 16x8 wheels can be used. One
problem is that there's not a heck of a lot of space in the front wheel
wells for a larger wheel; they barely hold the stock ones :) Any wheel
that fits in the front wheel well would be undersized for the rear.
However, there is something tricky with the backspacing on the DeLorean
(how far the wheel extends inward/outward) making finding a perfect fit a
little tricky. Unfortunately, I don't remember exactly what the trick is
- I did at one point - it's not hopeless, just not a good idea to go grab
any old wheel from the local tire shop, even if it nominally "fits".
Also, try to make sure the wheels you get aren't that much heavier than
the stock (lighter is no problem). Naturally larger wheels will tend to
weigh a little more, but there are aftermarket wheels out there that weigh
50 pounds! Heavy wheels, while not posing a direct safety or appearance
problem, can make a noticeable dent in your acceleration - every pound in
the wheels is the equivalent of four pounds anywhere else.
That said, I do think getting aftermarket wheels is a good idea. It's
getting hard to get good quality matching tires (esp. now that the AVS
Intermediate is discontinued) because of the rarity of modern cars with
14" wheels. 15" on the front goes a long way to making this particular
purchasing decision easier :)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Tue, 03 Jun 2003 18:23:10 -0000
From: "twinenginedmc12" <twinenginedmc12@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Door struts (wasRe: Hood Struts)
Hi "Harold"
The question stands unanswered:
Has DeloreanMoCo in Houston changed the design of their door struts
so that they actually fit the car?
If you don't know the answer, that's fine. Perhaps someone from
DeloreanMotorCo in Houston will address it.
I researched this topic very thoroughly a while ago; D-M-C-H door
struts should not be used with confidence. They do not fit the car
with a sufficient margin of safety, unless the strut design has been
changed.
Rick Gendreau.
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxx>
wrote:
.... I have always used the DMCH struts with confidence.
>
> Harold McElraft - 3354
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2003 10:53:42 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Door Struts (Was: Hood Struts)
Since seeing a number of cars with DMCH struts in
Memphis (you can identify them by the screw-on ball
end, as opposed to the crimped end) that also had bent
or broken mounts, This is one of the things I take
note of when looking at other DeLoreans. Sad to say,
but there are a significant number of DeLoreans out
there with damaged mounts and I don't think it is a
coincidence that they all had DMCH struts.
A member of the DML did some in depth research and
evaluation of the struts not too long ago (maybe he
will contact you?). His findings agree that the DMCH
strut is indeed too long and will not allow the door
to fully close on many cars. There are obviously
deviations from car to car, because some cars have not
been damaged. Knowing that there is a problem on some
cars, why take the risk??
I guess if you are already using a DMCH strut on a
particular car with no damage, then your safe.
Of course, all I say above applies to the struts that
are already around. If DMCH has a new design, then I
would expect them to make it known. This is of course
what prompted my question! Does anyone know if they
have a new design?
Marc
--- Harold McElraft <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx> wrote:
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Marc Levy
> <malevy_nj@xxxx> wrote:
> > Have the DMCH door struts been fixed so they dont
> bend
> > the mount when the door is closed??
>
> Marc
>
> A severely bent strut mount is one bit of damage
> that I have seldom
> seen. The only strut mounts that I have seen
<SNIP>
__________________________________
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Yahoo! Calendar - Free online calendar with sync to Outlook(TM).
http://calendar.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Tue, 03 Jun 2003 19:20:06 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: More questions than answers (Engine Failure)
Aren't there some water jacket drain plugs somewhere at bottom of
block? I don't use them, but seem to remember a tech article on the
website in which Dave Swingle does.
Coolant IS coming from somewhere -- water jacket, external plumbing,
pump, etc.
Biggest concern with head gasket theory -- symptoms different than
vacuum leak. Vacuum leaks primarily a low RPM problem, basically
"wandering" idle. Leaking head gasket worse at high RPM's: hesitation,
shudders, and misses.
Do you have any of the classic head gasket indicators: steam in
exhaust or a milky white residue in oil? Put a timing light on each
plug -- if water leak is bad enough will foul them (electrode will
actually rust).
Sounds like stupid question (and I know I beat the topic to death),
but have you ensured all external coolant hoses and pipes intact? Are
quite a few to worry about. Is it possible you have two different
problems (water leak and vacuum leak) at same time?
At least your speedo works.
Bill Robertson
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxx> wrote:
> For anyone who's been following this odessey, I have:
>
> Drilled out that last stuck clutch pressure plate bolt. Removed the
> clutch and flywheel. I found, absolutely nothing.
>
> I'll recap the symptoms: Engine behaved as though it had a vacuum
> leak (which I couldn't find) Oil mixed with coolant on the ground (at
> least 1/2 to 1 quart). The bottom of the engine was totally wet with
> the mix, especially the tranny end of the engine, and the crossbeam.
> The rest of the engine was totally dry. To me, this suggested a
> cracked block, or blown headgasket(s). Some of you (and the folks at
> DMCH) informed me that crack blocks were extremely rare and a blown
> head gasket was much more likely.
>
> Fine. But that didn't answer where the fluid came from. There was a
> lot of it, but none of it came from where the heads mate to the
> block. It all seemed centered around the bottom of the tranny,
> smearing back all over the bottom of the engine. The more stuff I got
> apart, the more of the trail I could see, the more convinced I was
> that the crank seal blew out. When I removed the tranny, there was
> even a -puddle- of the fluid mix in the bellhousing.
>
> I looked all over. I can't find a crack. The crank seal is dry. No
> snail trail. WHERE is this stuff coming from????? Test this theory:
> Is there positive pressure in the oil pan when the engine runs? Did
> the oil pan gasket give out, spraying that area of the engine? It's
> the right location. The whole oil pan gasket is leaking. The bottom
> dust plate for the clutch was missing when I took it all apart. Did
> it spray in there, and leave the puddle in the bellhousing?
>
> One final question: I have a new crank seal. Even though the old one
> seems intact, should I replace it or not mess with it???
>
> Sorry for the length.
> Rich
> #5335 -MD
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Tue, 03 Jun 2003 15:25:24 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Dead Speedo (need tach Xrefs), dead A/C idler bearings, all other systems go
Just returned from big trip to Northeast, one Lincoln richer and two
casualties to the DeLo:
Lost speedo. Probably won't do autopsy until Thr or Fri. If I'm lucky,
will just be rounded out hole in the wheel disc. If, despite my best
lubrication efforts, is angle drive, will join long line of metal
converts.
Was able to calculate tach Xrefs on I-95 using mileposts, but could
use some for lower gears in town. My terrain is flat so hills don't
need to be factored in. Could someone eMail
(brobertson(AT)carolina.net) or post a URL.
Also lost bearings in A/C idler pulley (I've only got 1). They've been
singing/spray lubricated for a while. A wise man would have replaced
BEFORE summer... Never realized how exposed OEM's are, or I would have
removed and packed before now. Fortunately was return trip on a fairly
cool day. R134 performed flawlessly otherwise.
Roads up north are a bit chaotic. Not sure how wise it is to drive my
limited production (from a company that no longer exists) auto up
there, but plan to return to DC area June 18-22. May be a totally
informal, totally novice, no liability expressed or implied tech
session at same time. Will eMail "host" to see if he wants to advertise.
Bill Robertson
#5939
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Tue, 03 Jun 2003 19:52:42 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Water pump, struts and heat shield
Make sure problem isn't torsion bars. Struts hold door after open, but
T bars do all the work. If they're out of adjustment, doors will sag.
Search archives under "torsion bars" for beaucoups of related posts.
FWIW: I'm thrilled with Rob Grady's struts.
Bill Robertson
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "dmc12rb" <rbrogren@xxxx> wrote:
>
> 2.
> I am also looking for recent information about the door struts. I
> replaced them 2 years ago with new struts from one of the better
> vendors, but they are both bad again. What's new and better and who
> sells them?
>
> Roger
> VIN 1074
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2003 13:45:09 -0700
From: "Donald Ekhoff" <ekhoff@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Alternative wheels
I have played around with the "aftermarket wheel" issue quite a lot and it
is quite a challenge to overcome all the obstacles involved. Honda offering
cars with 4 x 100mm lug patterns has however made things possible that were
impossible a few years ago. While I have done three different sets in the
last year the latest can be seen at: www.kablam.us Go to the Gallery
section and look at s/n 6543 to see 17"x7's in the front (40mm offset) and
19"x8's in the rear (with a less than ideal 40mm offset as well) The ideal
offset in the back is 20mm but I know of no wheel currently available made
to this spec. This results in the rear wheels being set too far inboard.
If it were not for the rim being 18" or larger they would rub on the shock
bolt. Because the car is lowered substantially the rear end became
decambered. I solved both problems by manufacturing a longer (adjustable)
upper control arm and using 1/4" spacers.
Don Ekhoff
6543
----- Original Message -----
From: "William T Wilson" <fluffy@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, June 03, 2003 11:51 AM
Subject: Re: [DML] Alternative wheels
> On Tue, 3 Jun 2003, jamesrguk wrote:
>
> > The only problem is that obviously the stock wheels are considerably
> > wider at the rear than at the front, when people have upgraded their
>
> They're larger both in diameter and in width. Many cars have this
> configuration, including recent Corvettes and the NSX.
>
> > wheels have they kept the same configuration or have they
> > compromised and used a set that is wider than the original front and
> > slimmer than the original rear wheels.
>
> You have to buy two sets of two wheels. The DeLorean would look silly
> with the same size wheels all around, and would be prone to spin under
> severe maneuvering. Commonly, 15x6 and 16x8 wheels can be used. One
> problem is that there's not a heck of a lot of space in the front wheel
> wells for a larger wheel; they barely hold the stock ones :) Any wheel
> that fits in the front wheel well would be undersized for the rear.
>
> However, there is something tricky with the backspacing on the DeLorean
> (how far the wheel extends inward/outward) making finding a perfect fit a
> little tricky. Unfortunately, I don't remember exactly what the trick is
> - I did at one point - it's not hopeless, just not a good idea to go grab
> any old wheel from the local tire shop, even if it nominally "fits".
> Also, try to make sure the wheels you get aren't that much heavier than
> the stock (lighter is no problem). Naturally larger wheels will tend to
> weigh a little more, but there are aftermarket wheels out there that weigh
> 50 pounds! Heavy wheels, while not posing a direct safety or appearance
> problem, can make a noticeable dent in your acceleration - every pound in
> the wheels is the equivalent of four pounds anywhere else.
>
> That said, I do think getting aftermarket wheels is a good idea. It's
> getting hard to get good quality matching tires (esp. now that the AVS
> Intermediate is discontinued) because of the rarity of modern cars with
> 14" wheels. 15" on the front goes a long way to making this particular
> purchasing decision easier :)
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Tue, 03 Jun 2003 21:18:22 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: More questions than answers (Engine Failure)
Yes, one on each side. Use the same tool as the square oil drain. One
is just above the starter, the other just above the cat about the
center of the block. They are screw-in plugs, not freeze plugs, so it
would be pretty unusual to have them leak much.
Dave Swingle
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "content22207" <brobertson@xxxx>
wrote:
> Aren't there some water jacket drain plugs somewhere at bottom of
> block?
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Tue, 03 Jun 2003 17:23:00 -0400
From: peteh269@xxxxxxx
Subject: I am back
I was the owner of a DMC before this list was put together and during it's infancy. Sadly, I had to get rid of my beautiiful car. But now I am back and in the market for another. Please email me if you or anyone you know wants to sell DMC in the No. California area. thanks, Pete
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2003 21:35:34 +0000
From: webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Door Struts (Was: Hood Struts)
The new struts are manufactured to the original design, look the same and are the exact same length as the original Lift-o-Mat struts that the cars left the factory with. The only difference is they have the "brake" in the last inch or so of travel.
I have James Espey on video saying "nobody will have a problem with these new struts... except Martin who has a problem with everything". Presumably because I quizzed him earlier and got the info in the above paragraph.
All in jest, I hope ;o)
Martin
#1458
#4426
> If DMCH has a new design, then I
> would expect them to make it known. This is of course
> what prompted my question! Does anyone know if they
> have a new design?
>
> Marc
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2003 21:49:47 +0000
From: webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Water pump, struts and heat shield
> 1.
> My waterpump evidently went kaput, right on a Volvo dealership
> parking area. They quoted me $1450 for a new pump installation and
> that is ludicrous! They also claimed that the exhaust manifold need
> to be removed in order to get to the rear hose connection on the
> engine.
As you guessed - complete rubbish. Ask them how the exhaust manifold could possibly affect the water pump when the pump is in the middle of the "V" and the manifolds are on the outside...
Are you sure he didn't say "intake manifold"?
However, you say the pump is kaput, but then suggest it's a leaky hose... which is it? There're a couple of good articles on the DMCnews tech page on how to change the pump.
> 3.
> Finally, has anybody tried the German made double layer SS heat
> shield? Or has somebody come up with a better design here in the US?
> Does anybody have a layout drawing?
It's just a heat-shield. A double-layer will work fine. A number of people over here simply cut a sheet of ally to the right pattern and replace the asbestos, but there are a lot of cars not running cats here in the UK. As for a pattern - just pull yours out and draw around it :-)
Martin
#1458
#4426
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2003 18:41:15 EDT
From: sand131@xxxxxxx
Subject: Recall campaign
I remember that a recall was made to add strength to the front frame tubes.
Can anyone supply the info regarding this update and/or supply the parts
required to effect it.
Thanks,
Ralph VIN 1606
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Tue, 03 Jun 2003 21:53:58 -0000
From: "frenkieboy" <j.m.s.c.lommen@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1520 (Unhappy about the DOA and DW)
I'm sorry to react this late, but I still feel I should.
Hi Trevor,
I would like to take the opportunity to react to your message below.
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "trevor Johson" <dmcboy1der@xxxx>
wrote:
> I really have no interest in getting into a debate with any
one, but I
> just want to shed some TRUTH onto all the misinformation going
around here.
I don't want to HAVE a debate, I am just expressing my
disappointment about the DOA and DW on DML. I already expressed my
disappointment directly to the Director of the DOA , back in (I
believe it was) 1995 and to John Truscott last year. I still had
hope for over 8 years that everything would become like it was when
I joined.
> First, Linda Porter is president, has been for the last 4 years.
Ed only
> recently took on the editors position when our current editor
resigned, as a
> TEMPORARY replacement, the board is still looking for someone with
suitable
> qualifications to take over for the next term.
Sorry about that, I made a miss there....
>If any of you are interested,
> then why not send a letter, or e-mail to a Board member? I am sure
most
> would gladly inform the board at the next meeting. Along those
lines, If you
> have a concern, why not write to the president? why sit here and
piss and
> moan
Is this the kind of arrogant language DOA uses to communicate with
their members ??? Again, I am not pissing and moaning. I am
expressing my disappointment about the DOA. I cannot recall any rude
or improper language about the DOA. I have been a member for over 13
years, and I don't think I deserve this for just expressing my
personal opinion.
>, no one here can do anything about it, you all say, "if things
would
> change..." then send your concerns to the President! This is how
you can
> bring change, by voicing your opinions, contrary to belief, only 2
Board
> members even look at the list, so in order for your opinions to
get through,
> send them directly to Linda.
Last year I sent an extensive letter with all my griefs to John
Truscott. I don't know what he did with this letter (you might wanna
get into that), but until today I didn't get any reaction at all.
ergo, writing the DOA about your griefs is useless !!!
>I won't pretend to know what Ed is trying to do
> with dw, all I know is that if you look back, DW has over 72
issues, which
> have covered just about everything there is to with DeLoreans and
tech, the
> new magazine still has tech, but again, in 20 years, its all been
said...
It's never been said !!!!! There is always more to say, but you just
don't want to say it. Since there are a lot of new magazines and
clubs who keep on expanding their knowledge. And these clubs for
example, share new cross reference parts, which you keep as the big
secret or sell for big money. Have you ever looked up when you last
published one?? If you have, let me know please. Like I wrote
before, a club is for the members, made by the members. They are the
cause of your existence, not just a money source. And there are a
lot of owners, that do not have the budget to restore a complete car
without having to worry about money.
> You say its not interesting any more, which is why the format
has been
> changed, there are a lot of owners who have read everything there
is on
> DeLoreans, and reading about how to add an emergency release to
the hood,
> just isn't interesting after being published 5 times. DW has
always had the
> option to send in your articles and have them published, but this
has just
> never been taken advantage of like it was hoped.
Ah, this is what I waited for. I am from the Netherlands. I can
write English, but it takes me a lot longer than the English writing
population on the DML. Like I mentioned before, in the past I wrote
some articles that were published in DW. They were all tech
articles, and it took me some time to get them together. In the last
one I wrote I mentioned a meeting of the German Delorean club in
Speyer. If I'm right that was in 1995. The article was rejected,
because the DOA didn't want to publish anything about a foreign
club, not being a chapter of the DOA. To my surprise, an article was
published about that same meeting (Volume 12, number 2) written by a
German member !!!!! They even published practically the same picture
(Deloreans in a row, doors open) that I added to my report !!!!
Dear DOA, don't be surprised if, after that, I didn't want to
contribute articles any more.
(From: "frenkieboy"
> If you have concerns, please direct them to the appropriate
board
> member, www.delorean-owners.org has a listing of all of them, and
their
> contact info.
>
> P.S. I will not respond to people looking for a fight, or rude
little people
> with something against someone, constructive criticism is welcome,
but to
> those of you who just want to argue, grow up, please.
So far, you are the first person beiing rude to ME, Trevor. I never
said I had a grudge against the DOA or Ed Bernstein, but YOU are the
first one that makes a good chance. I think Ed was a pioneer on the
DeLorean parts area, in a time not many people were willing to take
the risc to sell these articles. He however did (thank you again for
that , Ed)and made me decide to buy and drive my DeLorean.
>
> Trevor Johnson
Frank Lommen
Netherlands
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Message: 18
Date: Tue, 03 Jun 2003 22:23:10 -0000
From: "ryanjm10014" <ryanjm@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Be in a DeLorean book! (Interview request)
[MODERATOR'S NOTE: Ryan's e-mail address to send responses to is ryanjm(at)cox.net Please submit responses directly to Ryan instead of broadcasting to the entire list.]
Hey everyone,
I'm working on a DeLorean book project that I'm not sure I'm allowed to
mention the name of. Regardless, I need lots of feedback from you guys,
the owners and enthusiasts, as the DML makes up one big chunk of what
I'm working on.
By answering any questions you give permission for your first and last name
(no more, no less) to be used in print, along with the quote.
More requests like this one will probably be posted for everyone as I
continue my work, but here's what I've got for you all right now. Please
e-mail your responses to ryanjm(at)cox.net
Thanks in advance,
Ryan McCaffrey
#10014
What is your first and last name?
Where do you live?
How long have you owned your DeLorean?
What is your opinion on the "two-tone" interior found in some 1983
models?
What do you remember thinking about the DeLorean when you first saw
Back to the Future?
Have you ever used BTTF and its DeLorean connection for fun or profit
(i.e. Halloween and/or renting the car out)? Please elaborate.
FOR EARLY (I.E. 1997) DML MEMBERS: What were your early impressions of
the DML? How did you find out about it?
FOR OWNERS WHO FOUND THEIR CAR ONLINE: Were you surprised that you
found about your car via the Internet? What were your experiences with
DeLorean shopping online?
Have you been to any of the DeLorean Car Shows in Cincinnati, Cleveland,
or Memphis? What were your impressions of the show(s)? Would you attend
another show?
FOR THOSE WHO HAVE HAD THEIR CARS RESTORED AT DMC HOUSTON: What
was your experience with DMC Houston's restoration program? What kind
of shape did it go there in and what did it come out like? What were some
of your before and after feelings?
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Message: 19
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2003 20:10:30 -0700
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Re: Dash Led's
Hedeki, Im intrested in the #161 bulb used for the battery light. Was it
replaced with the LED's and did it work ok.I haven't tested it.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com
-----Original Message-----
From: dmc12jp [mailto:hidesuke@xxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Monday, June 02, 2003 11:15 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Re: Dash Led's
Hello list,
First post to DML and probably the first post from Japan also.
I would like to share my experience of LED conversion. I replaced the
incandescent
bulbs on the A/C panel and in some of the switches on the panel to LEDs. The
LEDs I
used are not the ones from Jamstrait. They were not available when I did the
conversion two year ago. It would have been much easier with those.
I did this conversion because I was worried about the significant heat that
is produced
by those bulbs. I thought it might even distort the panel in a long run.
LEDs draw less
current so it is good for the car. I estimated the current consumed in the
A/C panel to
be about 1.5A. By replacing them to LEDs it is reduced by a factor of 20.
Another
advantage is that once you replace the bulbs to LEDs you won't need to open
it again
for replacing the bulbs. LEDs will last almost forever.
I am pleased with the results. It gives much crisper and clearer impression
to the
panel than the original. It is literally cool.
One thing that might be unique to my modification is the use of current
limiting
diodes. They regulate the current to 15mA regardless of the supplied
voltage. This
gives a constant brightness regardless of the condition of the electrical
system in the
car. The drawback is that the rheostat does not have much effect. It does
not bother
me, though since I do not need to worry about the heat any more.
I used 6 hyper-intensity LEDs (2 White, One Blue, One red, Two green) and 2
diodes
for the A/C panel, One red and one diode for the Hazard switch. In some
part, I used
two or three LED in series with this diode. The voltage drop is different
for different
color of LED, so you need to take it into account when planning the
combination.
I had to cut off the tops of each LEDs a bit for the A/C panel, but I did
not need to
modify the panel at all. Replacing the bulb in a switch is a little tricky.
First, you take
out the switch and open it carefully. You then solder a LED and a diode
together, and
tailor its legs to fit the contacts where the original incandescent bulbs
have been.
I posted the pictures on the web.
http://homepage.mac.com/hokam/PhotoAlbum1.html
I am sorry for the poor quality of the pictures. They are out of focus. At
that time I
had a very old digital camera which had a fixed focus and it was extremely
difficult to
take such kind of pictures.
Regarding the choice of the color of LED, Mike is right. I should have used
a white
LED for the temperature control part of the A/C panel instead of blue.
Experiments
showed white LEDs give much pleasing color to our eyes. I think this can be
explained
by the fact that the wavelength of color LED is almost monochromatic,
whereas the
coloring of the panel is not. By using a monochromatic light source only a
small part
of the light can transmit. Also the intended color cannot be reproduced.
Specs of the LEDs I used. The cost of each LED is about 500 yen (= $4) here
in Japan.
White LED --- NSPW500BS
4000 mcd (TYP) 20mA, VF = 4V
Blue LED --- E1L51-3BC02
1800 mcd (TYP) 30mA, Wavelength - 465-475 nm, VF = 5V
Bluish Green --- E1L51-KC0A2-1
3200 mcd (TYP) 10mA, Wavelength - 493-498 mn, VF = 3.2V
(This LED is used for green traffic lights)
Current limiting diode - CRD-153 (15mA)
I hope this will be of some use to you.
Best regards,
Hideki Okamura
Tokyo, Japan
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Mike" <mquinto@xxxx> wrote:
> The reason why I'm going with white for the greens and blue is, it
seems to show
up the lens color better than using blue, amber or red led behind it.
I have these
individual colored led's to play with, but I didn't have green so I
could tell you how it
might look.
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
To search the archives or view files, log in at
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Message: 20
Date: Tue, 03 Jun 2003 19:51:00 -0600
From: Mark Noeltner <mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Dead Speedo (need tach Xrefs)
The RPM to MPH conversion charts are on the DMC-News web site.
http://www.dmcnews.com/Resource/rpm2mph.html
Hope that helps!
Mark N
VIN 6820
At 03:25 PM 6/3/2003 -0000, you wrote:
<snip>
>Was able to calculate tach Xrefs on I-95 using mileposts, but could
>use some for lower gears in town. My terrain is flat so hills don't
>need to be factored in. Could someone eMail
>(brobertson(AT)carolina.net) or post a URL.
<snip>
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Message: 21
Date: Wed, 04 Jun 2003 03:01:15 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1520 (Unhappy about the DOA and DW)
When I was told you had to go to the director's page on the DOA
website to contact them I sent an e-mail to Ray Haug saying that they
should consider a Contacts page with a link on the home page so it
would be easier to find a way to contact the different Directors. His
reply simply stated that if he did that everyone might get spam. I
guess they want you to look through the whole website to find a way to
contact someone. Well now for everyone's info if you have a concern
that you might want to express directly to any of the Directors of the
DOA just go to the website, click on the Directors, (the sidbar on the
left) and then click on the Director you wish to send a message to. I
got a reply about my recent post on the DML from Henry Breer who is a
Director in the DOA. I am trying to put the e-mail up so everyone can
see EXACTLY how he replied and the tone that was used. My restating it
wouldn't have the same effect as seeing it for yourself. Interesting
that he didn't reply on the DML but SOMEONE is watching us!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "frenkieboy" <j.m.s.c.lommen@xxxx> wrote:
> I'm sorry to react this late, but I still feel I should.
>
> Hi Trevor,
>
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Message: 22
Date: Tue, 03 Jun 2003 23:24:18 -0400
From: peteh269@xxxxxxx
Subject: Painted Delorean
I am considering the purchase of a painted Delorean. What would all be involved in terms of removing the paint? Will it damage the stainless?
Pete
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Message: 23
Date: Wed, 04 Jun 2003 03:04:28 -0000
From: "fivetwofive" <CBL302@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Delorean Fever since 1971
One night I was thinking about Deloreans(yea ,I do that often,I have
what is called-- DFS--(Delorean Fever Syndrome) When I came to a
startling Conclusion,That I have been a Delorean Person since 1971 !!
Yea
I know the first Delorean didn't come out till 1981,But when you
think about it,My first car at 17yrs old was a 1966 Pontiac GTO,
three two barrels 4 spd red,JZD's official first car,followed by a
bunch of other GTO's including a 1966 convertible GTO,and a 1967
GTO,followed,by a 1968 GT0,then after that I got involved,into
Delorean's next
project,the infamous Chevy Vega,I had a very Cute 1973 Vega GT,with
the black hood stripes,running the length of the hood to the
trunk,actually a sporty car to drive(4 speed stick)but man did it
ever smoke after it hit 50,000 miles!!One of the Reason JZD
disassociates himself from that project!!
Then I continued with the Vega(a different one)1971 Vega,But this was
a Motion Performance equipped Vega,350 small block with a turbo 400
tranny,12 bolt rear(still have that car but in a long term
restoration)Then after got my first taste of the "Gullwings" bought a
1975 Bricklin in 1980 (vin#1024) which I still own plus one other
Bricklin(#1136),then in 1982,I picked up my first, of many Deloreans
to come(required a ground up resto)(8 total I think)
MY Point Here Is:
That,Since day one from my first car,till my present Deloreans,I
have unknowly,been involved with Deloreans and his earlier
products,ALL my adult life,Meaning that I always liked what he
made,and even Unknowly, Prepared myself for his Gullwinged cars,EVEN
BEFORE I knew that he was going to produce a Gullwinged car,by buying
( and getting involved with (late seventies,then bought my first "B"
in 1980) the earlier version of the Delorean,which was the Bricklin.
Hope this makes any sense.(DFS is getting to my Brain right now)
Claude
00570
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Message: 24
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2003 21:34:22 -0700
From: "Mike" <mquinto@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Dash Led's
John,
I did some voltage readings on the wire the runs to the alternator with the
incandescent and the LED.
Incandescent: around 12v
LED: Around 8v
Definitely a reduction, not enough to charge the system.
When the Led light was installed it is on but very Dim.
I talked to our vehicle Electrician and Engineer at work about it. I showed
them Jamstraits Resistor and asked if this might solve the problem. They
didn't really have an answer but said, give it a try.
I went ahead and ordered one to try it out.
What do you think, would this solve the problem?
http://www.jamstrait.com/loadr.jpg
Regards,
Mike
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Message: 25
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2003 22:32:51 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jonas Pitchford <Delorean3543@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: current drain
I had the same problem, I would check it ASAP
vin 3543
I can vouch for the door light switches, I went through a dead
battery myself because of this. Another thing that drains some
current is the door lock module. The module itself drains about
~13mA, but if the contacts inside or the door lock solenoids are
stuck then it will drain much more until something fails or burns up.
Adam Price
16683
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "dsstriker" wrote:
> hi, any advice on current drain problems with dmcs? I am looking at
a
> delorean to possibly purchase but it has this issue, the owner has
a
> quick disconnect on the battery b/c of a drain problem. What should
i
> look for? thanks..
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