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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 24 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Fuel System Contamination
From: "deloreanz" <deloreanz@xxxxxxxxx>
2. RE: Re: AC Compressor cross reference
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Fuel leak, please help...
From: Scott Tester <scott@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. DeLoreans
From: id <ionicdesign@xxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: AC quits working when the car stops moving?
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
6. RE: Fuel System Contamination
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
7. RE: Fuel leak, please help...
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: cross reference o2 sensor
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
9. Re: Fuel leak, please help...
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Windshield decal
From: id <ionicdesign@xxxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: Fuel System Contamination
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
12. Re: Fuel leak, please help...
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: Fuel leak, please help...
From: billsfanmd@xxxxxxx
14. Re: Fuel leak, please help...
From: "D F" <funkstuf@xxxxxxxxxxx>
15. Re: cross references
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
16. RE: Fuel leak, please help...
From: "W.\"Ski\" Lukowski" <vegascop1@xxxxxxxx>
17. Re: Digest Number 1493
From: Holler <thehauntfactory@xxxxxxx>
18. Re: Fuel leak, please help...
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
19. Re: Fuel System Contamination (Long)
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
20. Re: door laucher
From: Bob Brandys <BobB@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
21. Re: Digest Number 1493
From: elvisnocita@xxxxxx
22. Correction: Re: cross references
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
23. Idle Microswitch Aftermarket Replacement
From: "apgiapgi" <clarkdmc@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
24. Re: Water pump
From: "robert parker" <roberthparker@xxxxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Tue, 06 May 2003 20:15:16 -0000
From: "deloreanz" <deloreanz@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Fuel System Contamination
Thanks for all the help in the past. Is there any proceedure i can
follow to check how far the fuel contamination has gotten(like if it
got past the accumulator/distributor up to the injectors? I'm
considering just replacing the fuel pump/accumulator/filter just to
be safe, is that absolutely nessesary or could I check if any of
those are still good? Also how could i check the distributor for rust
(hence injector contamination)? Thanks again,
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Tue, 6 May 2003 19:03:00 -0700
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Re: AC Compressor cross reference
As I understand it, the compressor is not the problem, it's the US GM
interface on the back of it. Also the mounting. Most compressors on the
aftermarket are rebuilt and I haven't had much luck with them.
John Hervey
Sanden testing facility is about a mile away from my office. I'll stop by
and see if they have any literature. I can also say the compressors are
stock at DMC Houston at a very reasonable price. I have purchased two of
them.
John Hervey
-----Original Message-----
From: Dave Swingle [mailto:swingle@xxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Tuesday, May 06, 2003 12:20 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Re: AC Compressor cross reference
Try www.sanden.com. There's a phone number on the site, and a parts
reference. There's nothing unusual about this compressor. Did you
check the DMC places? If I recall the compressor is not terribly
expensive because they have a ton of them.
Dave
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "deloreanchuck" <chuckkay@xxxx> wrote:
> I can not believe that the only car that used the ac compressor in
> the DeLorean was the DeLorean. There most have been some other car
> to use it, Saab, Volvo, Lotus, etc. My compressor clutch starts to
> smoke after several seconds which leads me to think the compressor
is
> dying. There are many compressors for sale on e-bay. One most fit
a
> DeLorean. I know the xref is a Sanden (sankyo) SD-510 model 8494
but
> that does me no good in finding one at auction.
>
> Chuck vin 10610
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Tue, 6 May 2003 17:35:39 -0700 (PDT)
From: Scott Tester <scott@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Fuel leak, please help...
Just finished doing all sorts of electrical and cooling work to my car, and I was excited to get it back on the road.
So my girlfriend and I hop in the car and I start it for the first test drive. Just before I close the door I smell fuel and upon looking under the car find that I have a small stream of fuel leaking from the middle of the car. So I immediately turned the ignition off and grabbed the fire extinguisher just in case.
I jacked the car up, but could not find where the leak is coming from. Is there a part of the fuel line in the middle of the car that is prone to leaking? Anyone else had an experience like this?
Scott Tester scott(at)delorean(dot)com
_____________________________________________________________
Don't be left out! Register today for the 2003 DMC Open House Event at http://www.delorean.com/2003event.asp
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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 06 May 2003 20:25:17 -0500
From: id <ionicdesign@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DeLoreans
Anybody get a new issue yet? last issue i got was the winter issue.
Mark
6683
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Wed, 07 May 2003 01:54:18 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: AC quits working when the car stops moving?
> -andrew
> #4115
> Houston TX
Andrew
One of the connections may be hot; maybe enough to burn a wire or
connection so look for that. Also, the low pressure cycling switch
on the AC accumulator may have defective contacts inside.
Look for damaged wires in the circuit. Take off the fitting at the
accumulator and try a jumper across the circuit and test the amps at
the clutch. That will give you some idea about the switch. Based on
your unit number you may have a high pressure switch; jumper test
that connection also. You might check the ground wire on the fan
motor. That connection is notorious for coming loose and that could
be causing a drain on the circuit.
You just have to check them all. There is just no other way.
Harold McElraft - 3354
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Tue, 6 May 2003 21:06:03 -0700
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Fuel System Contamination
Not knowing exactly what kind of contamination your talking about, but it
has to be very microscopic to get past the fuel filter. But rust particales
can build in the fuel distributor and stop it up along with the injectors.
If your going to replace the pump and accumulator then a FD may be in order
also alsos with either replacing the injectors or cleaning them.
John Hervey
-----Original Message-----
From: deloreanz [mailto:deloreanz@xxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Tuesday, May 06, 2003 1:15 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Fuel System Contamination
Thanks for all the help in the past. Is there any proceedure i can
follow to check how far the fuel contamination has gotten(like if it
got past the accumulator/distributor up to the injectors? I'm
considering just replacing the fuel pump/accumulator/filter just to
be safe, is that absolutely nessesary or could I check if any of
those are still good? Also how could i check the distributor for rust
(hence injector contamination)? Thanks again,
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Tue, 6 May 2003 21:08:42 -0700
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Fuel leak, please help...
Scott, How much gas was in the car. Most common to me was the boot wasn't
fully secure and the return line going thru the book doesn't have a clamp.
Also if the boot filled up on top then the check valve may be leaking.
John Hervey
-----Original Message-----
From: Scott Tester [mailto:scott@xxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Tuesday, May 06, 2003 5:36 PM
To: DMCNews
Subject: [DML] Fuel leak, please help...
Just finished doing all sorts of electrical and cooling work to my car, and
I was excited to get it back on the road.
So my girlfriend and I hop in the car and I start it for the first test
drive. Just before I close the door I smell fuel and upon looking under the
car find that I have a small stream of fuel leaking from the middle of the
car. So I immediately turned the ignition off and grabbed the fire
extinguisher just in case.
I jacked the car up, but could not find where the leak is coming from. Is
there a part of the fuel line in the middle of the car that is prone to
leaking? Anyone else had an experience like this?
Scott Tester scott(at)delorean(dot)com
_____________________________________________________________
Don't be left out! Register today for the 2003 DMC Open House Event at
http://www.delorean.com/2003event.asp
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Wed, 07 May 2003 02:05:40 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: cross reference o2 sensor
BOSCH 11037 (0 258 001 037 009)
Harold McElraft - 3354
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Kenneth Kapalowski \(Ontario
DeLorean Owners Club\)" <ken@xxxx> wrote:
> Is there a part number for the bosch o2 sensor for the DeLorean?
>
> As well. where could I find a GOOD cross reference list for various
> parts of the D?
>
> Ie.. ball joints, brake pads, etc..
>
> I am trying to compile a list for my webpage www.odoc.ca
> <http://www.odoc.ca/> and rate the cross ref lists according to
how
> well a cross ref part fits the original and pricing. etc..
>
> Please feel free to email me back privately ken@xxxx
>
> Thanks
> Kenneth
> 005541
> www.odoc.ca <http://www.odoc.ca/>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Tue, 6 May 2003 22:33:40 -0400
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Fuel leak, please help...
Thats the fuel accumulator in the center of the car. Apparently the one of
the hoses is leaking. Call your local DeLorean vendor and order a new fuel
accumulator and the two hoses attached to it.
Dave Sontos
vin 02573
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Tester" <scott@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: "DMCNews" <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, May 06, 2003 8:35 PM
Subject: [DML] Fuel leak, please help...
> Just finished doing all sorts of electrical and cooling work to my car,
and I was excited to get it back on the road.
>
> So my girlfriend and I hop in the car and I start it for the first test
drive. Just before I close the door I smell fuel and upon looking under the
car find that I have a small stream of fuel leaking from the middle of the
car. So I immediately turned the ignition off and grabbed the fire
extinguisher just in case.
>
> I jacked the car up, but could not find where the leak is coming from. Is
there a part of the fuel line in the middle of the car that is prone to
leaking? Anyone else had an experience like this?
>
> Scott Tester scott(at)delorean(dot)com
>
>
> _____________________________________________________________
> Don't be left out! Register today for the 2003 DMC Open House Event at
http://www.delorean.com/2003event.asp
>
> _____________________________________________________________
> Select your own custom email address for FREE! Get you@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx w/No
Ads, 6MB, POP & more! http://www.everyone.net/selectmail?campaign=tag
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Tue, 06 May 2003 21:47:03 -0500
From: id <ionicdesign@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Windshield decal
Who sells DeLorean windshield decals?
They go across the top of the windshield.
Mark
6683
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Wed, 07 May 2003 03:16:36 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Fuel System Contamination
If the system isn't terrible I would just drain the fuel tank and wipe
it out. If it isn't too bad then most of the crud is stopped by the
small strainer on the end of the fuel pick-up hose. The really small
fine stuff should be trapped in the fuel filter. Unless you are having
a lot of trouble with the fuel system all that I would do is have the
fuel injectors cleaned and tested. If the engine runs at all before
you start that should be enough. If the car hasn't been run and you
are really worried then drain the tank, wipe it out, fill with fresh
gas and run the motor. The system should flush most of the dirt either
into the tank or the fuel filter. Drive the car a little and then wipe
the tank out again and replace the fuel filter. Once you are sure you
got all of the dirt out then clean the fuel injectors. While you are
in the tank inspect all of the parts and replace any quetionable,
deteriorated parts. The fuel filter is supposed to protect the fuel
distributer and injectors. The accumulater may be bad but dirt won't
hurt it too much, age does.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "deloreanz" <deloreanz@xxxx> wrote:
> Thanks for all the help in the past. Is there any proceedure i can
> follow to check how far the fuel contamination has gotten(like if it
> got past the accumulator/distributor up to the injectors? I'm
> considering just replacing the fuel pump/accumulator/filter just to
> be safe, is that absolutely nessesary or could I check if any of
> those are still good? Also how could i check the distributor for rust
> (hence injector contamination)? Thanks again,
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Wed, 07 May 2003 03:24:11 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Fuel leak, please help...
You probobly won't see the problem from underneath. Take out the
carpet and spare tire in the luggage compartment. Remove the curved
cover toward the rear of the spot where the spare tire sits. You will
see the top of the fuel tank and the 2 hoses. While the motor is
running you should find the leak. Do this outside in a well ventilated
area and wipe up any spilled fuel quickly. You could have a bad hose.
The other possability IS visible from under the car. Look up inside
the frame in the center of the car and you will see the accumulater.
There is a small rubber hose coming out of the back of it. The
accumulater could be bad and the rubber return hose is leaking. DON'T
DRIVE THE CAR WITH A FUEL LEAK. It is VERY dangerous to do that.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Scott Tester <scott@xxxx> wrote:
> Just finished doing all sorts of electrical and cooling work to my
car, and I was excited to get it back on the road.
>
> So my girlfriend and I hop in the car and I start it for the first
test drive. Just before I close the door I smell fuel and upon looking
under the car find that I have a small stream of fuel leaking from the
middle of the car. So I immediately turned the ignition off and
grabbed the fire extinguisher just in case.
>
> I jacked the car up, but could not find where the leak is coming
from. Is there a part of the fuel line in the middle of the car that
is prone to leaking? Anyone else had an experience like this?
>
> Scott Tester scott(at)delorean(dot)com
>
>
> _____________________________________________________________
> Don't be left out! Register today for the 2003 DMC Open House Event
at http://www.delorean.com/2003event.asp
>
> _____________________________________________________________
> Select your own custom email address for FREE! Get you@xxxx w/No
Ads, 6MB, POP & more! http://www.everyone.net/selectmail?campaign=tag
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Tue, 6 May 2003 23:40:10 EDT
From: billsfanmd@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Fuel leak, please help...
Your fuel leak expert at your service :-) Again, you may need to be more
specific as the middle of the car covers a 3 foot area....I would look at the
accumulator hoses first and see if there is fuel dripping there..the frame
there has a big hole so its easy to look up there....Next look behind your
front right wheel and you should see the 2 fuel lines that come off the fuel
pump and connect to the steel lines on teh car...One thing i noticed right
away when mine leaked is the fuel makes the brass fittings very shiny so its
easy to see, you want hose fittings to look old and dirty....Look under your
left rear wheel that fuel filter does not have aleak or losse fitting. Next
I have heard about the steel lines inside the frame getting cracks but that
is rarer....
What I would do is in an open area have your girlfrined turn the key (but
dont start the car)...look under the car and follow the leak to the
source....Did you do anything near these fuel lines??? they do run under the
center console so maybe something you did there....I wish I could be more
help but you need to really look for the source....the ful lsystem is under
alot of pressure so at least the leak will be obvious which is better one
that is hard to trace...
let me know what you find
good luck
Mike C
2109
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Wed, 07 May 2003 04:24:58 +0000
From: "D F" <funkstuf@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Fuel leak, please help...
By now you've heard a lot of advice so here's a little more.
1.) Look under the hood near the front of the car where the rubber hoses
connect to the hard line.
If no leak at the connectors then:
2.) Take off the change holder in the rear of the console. There is a hard
plastic covering that covers access to the gas line connectors to the
accumulator. Also, you can see the accumulator by getting under the car and
looking up into a hole that let's you remove it.
3.) In the right rear of the car is the fuel filter. Doubtful, but it
could be leaking there.
NOW for the real test.
After I did all this and everybody kept telling me that it had to be one of
these places, I kept telling them that it wasn't. It was right in between.
So, I removed the entire console, and the rubber boot covering the stick
shift. At this point, I could see both fuel lines running on the passenger
side between the frame and the body. It was leaking right near the front of
the stick shift. The reason was because there was a felt spacer right there
that pads the body from the frame. Over time, This had held moisture and
corroded the hard steel lines. Yes, they actually corroded and had a hole.
The lesson was that you have to check the entire line from start to finish.
Everybody told me that there was no way it was leaking in the middle of the
line.
They also said you would have to separate the body from the frame to repair
this.
I was able to fix it by purchasing some high pressure line and cutting the
hard line on both ends. I used a fish tape to pull the line through the
small space between the body and frame.
Good Luck
Sincerely,
Dale Funk
4984
>From: Scott Tester <scott@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
>Reply-To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>To: DMCNews <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>Subject: [DML] Fuel leak, please help...
>Date: Tue, 6 May 2003 17:35:39 -0700 (PDT)
>
>Just finished doing all sorts of electrical and cooling work to my car, and
>I was excited to get it back on the road.
>
>So my girlfriend and I hop in the car and I start it for the first test
>drive. Just before I close the door I smell fuel and upon looking under the
>car find that I have a small stream of fuel leaking from the middle of the
>car. So I immediately turned the ignition off and grabbed the fire
>extinguisher just in case.
>
>I jacked the car up, but could not find where the leak is coming from. Is
>there a part of the fuel line in the middle of the car that is prone to
>leaking? Anyone else had an experience like this?
>
>Scott Tester scott(at)delorean(dot)com
>
>
>_____________________________________________________________
>Don't be left out! Register today for the 2003 DMC Open House Event at
>http://www.delorean.com/2003event.asp
>
>_____________________________________________________________
>Select your own custom email address for FREE! Get you@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx w/No
>Ads, 6MB, POP & more! http://www.everyone.net/selectmail?campaign=tag
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Wed, 07 May 2003 05:17:29 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: cross references
http://www.dmc12.com/crossref.html
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/6220/xref.html
You can also get good results from '82ish Volvo 260 or '85ish Volvo
760 in parts house computer systems.
Honest to goodness DeLorean vendors are often competitive, and
guaranteed (mostly) to fit.
Bill Robertson
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Kenneth Kapalowski \(Ontario
DeLorean Owners Club\)" <ken@xxxx> wrote:
> Is there a part number for the bosch o2 sensor for the DeLorean?
>
> As well. where could I find a GOOD cross reference list for various
> parts of the D?
>
> Ie.. ball joints, brake pads, etc..
>
> I am trying to compile a list for my webpage www.odoc.ca
> <http://www.odoc.ca/> and rate the cross ref lists according to how
> well a cross ref part fits the original and pricing. etc..
>
> Please feel free to email me back privately ken@xxxx
>
> Thanks
> Kenneth
> 005541
> www.odoc.ca <http://www.odoc.ca/>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Wed, 7 May 2003 01:25:12 -0700
From: "W.\"Ski\" Lukowski" <vegascop1@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Fuel leak, please help...
Scott,
Like John said it's more likely the fuel accumulator, one of the fuel
hoses that go into it is a high pressure, we are talking about 50-60PSI
if Im not mistaken, and if that house is not clampped well it will
go...Besides, that's what happened to me ;-) Easy fix, you don't need
to replace the accumulator or the lines unless they are rotten or
something. Let us know how you corrected the problem.
Ski 4649
-----Original Message-----
From: Scott Tester [mailto:scott@xxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Tuesday, May 06, 2003 5:36 PM
To: DMCNews
Subject: [DML] Fuel leak, please help...
Just finished doing all sorts of electrical and cooling work to my car,
and I was excited to get it back on the road.
So my girlfriend and I hop in the car and I start it for the first test
drive. Just before I close the door I smell fuel and upon looking under
the car find that I have a small stream of fuel leaking from the middle
of the car. So I immediately turned the ignition off and grabbed the
fire extinguisher just in case.
I jacked the car up, but could not find where the leak is coming from.
Is there a part of the fuel line in the middle of the car that is prone
to leaking? Anyone else had an experience like this?
Scott Tester scott(at)delorean(dot)com
_____________________________________________________________
Don't be left out! Register today for the 2003 DMC Open House Event at
http://www.delorean.com/2003event.asp
_____________________________________________________________
Select your own custom email address for FREE! Get you@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
w/No Ads, 6MB, POP & more!
http://www.everyone.net/selectmail?campaign=tag
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Wed, 07 May 2003 08:42:29 -0400
From: Holler <thehauntfactory@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1493
Not to speak for Bob, but since I've seen the Zilla Door Launcher's
latest production model, hot off the machine shop, I'll add my 2 cents:
The engineering and design are far beyond 'a little ingenuity' that
anyone else would dedicate to producing such a mechanism. Off the
shelf parts and a loss of interest have nothing to do with the Zilla
Launcher, soon to be available on a larger scale at the Zilla website.
Since the upper section of the door panel is much easier to access than
lower, it was totally redesigned (BEFORE rushing to production) to fit
above, and the custom mounts line right up with existing attachment
points! How cool is that? Of course, electronically, it's plug and
launch! :-)
And who else would go as far as having a key remote custom molded and
cast? It's where mere function meets design excellence, and graceful integration.
I'm anxious to install a pair in my car, but I remind myself that life
can involve more than just building stuff for DeLorean enthusiasts. We
all know, first hand, the challenges that present themselves along our
journey, even if we don't make everything in our lives public knowledge.
And as they say, good things come to those who wait. :-)
Oliver Holler
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Wed, 07 May 2003 05:08:38 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Fuel leak, please help...
While isolating leak, jump RPM relay like this:
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-images/rpm-relay-jumper.jpg
Will force pump to spin without actually starting engine (do need to
energize car). Much safer.
Bill Robertson
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Scott Tester <scott@xxxx> wrote:
> Just finished doing all sorts of electrical and cooling work to my
car, and I was excited to get it back on the road.
>
> So my girlfriend and I hop in the car and I start it for the first
test drive. Just before I close the door I smell fuel and upon looking
under the car find that I have a small stream of fuel leaking from the
middle of the car. So I immediately turned the ignition off and
grabbed the fire extinguisher just in case.
>
> I jacked the car up, but could not find where the leak is coming
from. Is there a part of the fuel line in the middle of the car that
is prone to leaking? Anyone else had an experience like this?
>
> Scott Tester scott(at)delorean(dot)com
>
>
> _____________________________________________________________
> Don't be left out! Register today for the 2003 DMC Open House Event
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>
> _____________________________________________________________
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Message: 19
Date: Wed, 07 May 2003 04:49:54 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Fuel System Contamination (Long)
Fuel tank pickup is a DeLorean achilles heel. If you own a D, the fuel
tank/pump/boot/etc are going to need more attention than other brands.
Is a simple fact.
Note that this is not a terminal issue. Nor is it worth TOTALLY
re-engineering (are better components however -- as long as you're
replacing, why not use upgrades). Just don't take it for granted.
Things to watch out for:
- Old & weak fuel pump. They do wear out. Remember: this unit is what
ultimately vaporizes fuel from the injectors (yes, via a small
diameter pipe to the filter) -- isn't it worth a hundred dollars or so
to be sure you've got optimal fuel burn? Later pumps also have
improved check valve.
- Deteriorated fuel pump boot. This guy holds the pump in the fuel.
Also seals the tank from water or other contaminants that may find
their way under pump cover (a notoriously ill fitting device, see
below). Is an extremely harsh environment even for new rubber. Not
only will an old boot fail to hold and seal the pump, but pieces of it
will crumble into tank (ultimate contamination).
- Fuel pump cover. Starts out as a tight fitting cap for pump & boot.
Has tight fitting passages for fuel lines. Electrical connections must
be carefully threaded through notches between cap and boot. THEN it
becomes hard and shrinks. Personally, it irritates me so I left off.
*BUT* my pump is totally isolated from windshield plenum drain hole by
a custom aluminum shield -- unless your plenum drain hose is intact or
another solution rigged up like mine, better not omit (boot will fill
with water and rust electrical connections on the pump).
- Fuel tank baffle. Because tank is flat bottomed, you need a baffle
when going around corners. Stock baffle is composed of three pieces,
connected to the pump by a custom formed rubber hose (remember what I
said Re: rubber in the tank?). IMHO is unnecessarily complicated -- am
totally sold on John Hervey's replacement (he's not even paying me to
say that). Mine was a total loss anyway: plastic hopelessly gummed,
pickup screens so brittle they crumbled between fingers, connecting
hose collapsing and gooey. For the price of replacement hose alone got
an aluminum baffle and screen that is simply engineered directly under
the pump.
- Fluorelastometric hoses connecting pump to metal fuel lines towards
rear of car. This is tough stuff. Unless it's been kinked or bent,
probably does not leak. But you may find lining of original hoses too
stiff to fit on new pump. Outer sheath may be deteriorated. You've
come this far, buy 3 feet or so of new hose...
Head spinning yet? Hang in there -- that was only three or four
components. Anyone with rudimentary mechanical skills can install.
$200 - $300 dollars: small price for years of trouble free maximum
performance.
Accumulator is basically a can of gas with a spring loaded diaphragm.
Pressurizes the fuel system before engine running, and evens out
pulses from RPM relay to the pump thereafter. Extremely little chance
the housing itself will ever leak. Extremely high chance the diaphragm
inside will go bad, rendering the thing useless. Are ways around a
dead accumulator, but are better ways to impress a woman than
re-wiring the car on a date. If you really can't spare $140 to
replace, post another message for the bypass procedures.
Cross referenced fuel filter is $15. Replace it.
Fuel distributor is rumored non-serviceable by average mechanic.
Apparently factory seal impossible to replicate. Since you've come all
the way to back of car, why not run it for a bit then examine spray
pattern from injectors in a glass container. If any are clogged, they
CAN be cleaned (with fuel injector cleaning machines). John Hervey's
price on a replacement set of 6 might even be cheaper. In any case, as
long as fuel metering piston operating correctly, contamination issues
from distributor to injectors are correctable.
Better stop here before Moderator tapes my mouth shut. Fuel system is
crucial. Components do not age well. Replacements are available and
fairly affordable. Properly maintained system will be a non issue in
your future.
Good luck.
Bill Robertson
#5939 (out of sling, on the road again -- watch out...)
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "deloreanz" <deloreanz@xxxx> wrote:
> Thanks for all the help in the past. Is there any proceedure i can
> follow to check how far the fuel contamination has gotten(like if it
> got past the accumulator/distributor up to the injectors? I'm
> considering just replacing the fuel pump/accumulator/filter just to
> be safe, is that absolutely nessesary or could I check if any of
> those are still good? Also how could i check the distributor for rust
> (hence injector contamination)? Thanks again,
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 20
Date: Wed, 07 May 2003 08:58:25 -0500
From: Bob Brandys <BobB@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: door laucher
Oliver,
BOB Zilla,
Can you add the BTTF sound door sound to the lanchers as an option. It
could go into the bonnet with its own speaker and trigger off the remote
door look button.
That would be really cool.
BOB
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 21
Date: Wed, 7 May 2003 16:36:42 +0200 (MEST)
From: elvisnocita@xxxxxx
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1493
Interesting. What attachment points do you mean ?
No holes to drill ? I am very curious how this will work.
And even more interesting - how will it be wired ?
The only spare wire I know which fits perfectly for an actuator or solenoid
ends under the T-panel. There may be +12V permanently in the door but then
there's still the problem that there's no signal wire left to tell a relay
that it
should activate the actuator/solenoid.
The only way to solve that without any extra wires is
1. via radio controlled module inside each door or
2. send the signal over an existing wire and filter it out with any other
high tech electronics (sensitive, expensive, but longlife ?!?!?!)
(Both solutions may be disturbed by a cellphone for example and may open
the door while on the freeway with 120mph.....)
I am really interested in how Zilla will solve that.
Regards,
Elvis & 6548
> Not to speak for Bob, but since I've seen the Zilla Door Launcher's
> latest production model, hot off the machine shop, I'll add my 2 cents:
> The engineering and design are far beyond 'a little ingenuity' that
> anyone else would dedicate to producing such a mechanism. Off the
> shelf parts and a loss of interest have nothing to do with the Zilla
> Launcher, soon to be available on a larger scale at the Zilla website.
> Since the upper section of the door panel is much easier to access than
> lower, it was totally redesigned (BEFORE rushing to production) to fit
> above, and the custom mounts line right up with existing attachment
> points! How cool is that? Of course, electronically, it's plug and
> launch! :-)
> And who else would go as far as having a key remote custom molded and
> cast? It's where mere function meets design excellence, and graceful
> integration.
>
> I'm anxious to install a pair in my car, but I remind myself that life
> can involve more than just building stuff for DeLorean enthusiasts. We
> all know, first hand, the challenges that present themselves along our
> journey, even if we don't make everything in our lives public knowledge.
>
> And as they say, good things come to those who wait. :-)
> Oliver Holler
>
--
+++ GMX - Mail, Messaging & more http://www.gmx.net +++
Bitte lächeln! Fotogalerie online mit GMX ohne eigene Homepage!
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 22
Date: Wed, 07 May 2003 16:06:42 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Correction: Re: cross references
Oops, this link will work better:
http://www.dmc12.com/crossref.htm
Apologies,
Bill Robertson
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "content22207" <brobertson@xxxx> wrote:
> http://www.dmc12.com/crossref.html
> http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/6220/xref.html
>
> You can also get good results from '82ish Volvo 260 or '85ish Volvo
> 760 in parts house computer systems.
>
> Honest to goodness DeLorean vendors are often competitive, and
> guaranteed (mostly) to fit.
>
> Bill Robertson
> #5939
>
> >--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Kenneth Kapalowski \(Ontario
> DeLorean Owners Club\)" <ken@xxxx> wrote:
> > Is there a part number for the bosch o2 sensor for the DeLorean?
> >
> > As well. where could I find a GOOD cross reference list for various
> > parts of the D?
> >
> > Ie.. ball joints, brake pads, etc..
> >
> > I am trying to compile a list for my webpage www.odoc.ca
> > <http://www.odoc.ca/> and rate the cross ref lists according to how
> > well a cross ref part fits the original and pricing. etc..
> >
> > Please feel free to email me back privately ken@xxxx
> >
> > Thanks
> > Kenneth
> > 005541
> > www.odoc.ca <http://www.odoc.ca/>
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 23
Date: Wed, 07 May 2003 15:32:31 -0000
From: "apgiapgi" <clarkdmc@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Idle Microswitch Aftermarket Replacement
I give Two Thumbs Up to the aftermarket replacement idle speed
microswitch, available from PJ Grady's.
I verified that my microswitch was faulty by disconnecting the
green/black wire from the switch and grounding it to the block,
noting that the fast idle problem was corrected when doing so.
The two options I had were buying the OEM switch, or going with an
aftermarket from PJ Grady's (saving about 60% in cost). The
aftermarket switch looks different, but does work as a functional
replacement. There were no problems getting the part to fit into
place.
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 24
Date: Wed, 07 May 2003 16:08:21 +0000
From: "robert parker" <roberthparker@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Water pump
Since you don't make nearly as big a mess as a "regular" water pump change,
it isn't that complicated. Remember to change all hoses on top of the
engine while everything is out of the way. I got the whoe "kit" from PJ
Grady. Reasonable, as he gives you a break with the whole kit.( pump,
hoses, etc.) Be sure to read the shop manual and refer to the illus. for
ref. as needed. There were several months between disassembly &
replacement on mine, & I thought it would be a big mess. Just started
putting things back together one part/bolt at a time, and ta-daaa! it was
done. I was pleasantly surprised. Gives one this sense of
accomplishment! Drive Stainless! Robert VIN 6924
From: "deloreanz" <deloreanz@xxxxxxxxx>
Reply-To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Water pump
Date: Sat, 03 May 2003 04:14:59 -0000
Does anyone know how hard it is to change a water pump or how much
one would cost? Thanks for any input,
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